When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys, I'm new!! Here are my specs:
2009 FWD
Eibach 1" Drop - Springs Only
20 X 9.5 Front
20 X 10.5 Rear - 255/30/20 Faulken 753's
I have gone through three rear tires because the tire on the inside of the wheel keeps getting deformed / warped causing a huge hop in the wheel when spinning. Rims are NOT bent.
Talked to a Tire shop and he said that the stretch is too extreme so its making the tire weak as well as the Weight index on the rear tire is 92 where the car call for a 98.
Bought two new Faulken 275/30/20 and had my fenders rolled today. I'm going to put the tires on tomorrow morning. Anyone else experience these issues?
Another shop told me that I should put a camber kit to correct the negative camber. Its only a 1" drop though?? And Another shop told me I need to change the shocks to stiffer shocks??
I run 255/30/20 on my 20x10.5 +25 and haven't had that issue. A lot of the guys on here however are running either 245/35 or 255/35 series tires. I believe the tires would bubble up from hitting a pothole hard but not hard enough to damage the rim. There is a couple people running 275/30/20 and a roll was a must.
CarbonTSEX and Potmilk - thanks for your help!! GREATLY Appreciated! Just came back from putting the 275s on, definitely a stronger tire. I had one guy at a performance shop tell me that it was the rear suspension. He said that I need better shocks. Any recommendations on good shocks? That will work well with the Eibach springs.
BTW - no rubbing yet on the rears!! fingers crossed!!
I just googled cupping. So I have to apologize cause I may not have been describing the problem correctly. The tires are not wearing out in a strange way. The belts on the sidewall are collapsing on the inner tire. Almost like it hit a hard bump and broke the sidewall belt then the tire is deformed because of it. But usually the tire would bubble in that one spot like a balloon but it isn't. It is just creating a really low point in the tread without wearing out the tread. So I don't have abnormal tread wear at all. The sidewalls just keep giving in and breaking down. Three tires in 6 months.
Just because you hit something doesn't mean the tire will bubble. I'm not sure what your older tires were, brand wise. Personally I would never run a stretched tire, you're already compromising the tires structural integrity. Add that to hitting a pothole or some other obstacle in the road and the tires are bound to fail.
I'm running Faulken 753's - good tires. Supposed to be strong. The rear had 255/30/20 with a load index of 92. The car calls for 98.
I just put on 275/30/20 with load index of 96. Not much of a stretch anymore.
Just because you hit something doesn't mean the tire will bubble. I'm not sure what your older tires were, brand wise. Personally I would never run a stretched tire, you're already compromising the tires structural integrity. Add that to hitting a pothole or some other obstacle in the road and the tires are bound to fail.
personally to me, its a combination of things.. not just a stretch tire.
1. you are running a 30 series tire.
2. you probably were running too low of a PSI. (40PSI is recommended)
3. you probably did run a pothole too fast.
4. you probably did have a defective tire.
personally to me, its a combination of things.. not just a stretch tire.
1. you are running a 30 series tire.
2. you probably were running too low of a PSI. (40PSI is recommended)
3. you probably did run a pothole too fast.
4. you probably did have a defective tire.
He's gone through three rear tires, I'm not sure if he meant 3 sets or just three tires. I'm willing to cross out #4 on your list. You would think the psi would be at 40 or at a really close psi 38-42, so I would rule that out, and say #1 and 3 are the culprits, along with the stretch.
Sorry Brock, yes three tires. Drove about 120 miles today on the 275s after having them put on this morning. Mostly highway driving and so far no vibrations. Keeping my fingers crossed. Also no rubbing!
potmilkz - I understand your points and right now the tires are at 35 PSI. I am really careful with potholes.
My main concern is that maybe I do need to change the shocks to work better with the Eibach springs. Any recommendations on brand? (shocks only) don't want coilovers.
Also, not sure if I should invest in a camber kit to make the tire sit better for more strength.
Thanks again guys!! - You don't understand how much this all helps.
The center caps you see are from my 18" OEM wheels. Although they fit the opening in the TSW wheels, the plastic tabs on the back of the Acura center caps did not grab the back of the hub opening very well, and they would fall out. So, I used a heat gun to soften up the plastic tabs and bent them outwards.
The DWs are great! Very grippy, but it may also be due to the wider tread from going from 245's to 265's. I've had the DWS previously in 245/45/18's. The were good tires, but I could feel the car getting a little squirrely on hard turns. The DW's I have now feel like they have stiffer sidewalls, but it also could be because of the shorter sidewall from going from stock 18's to the TSW 19's.
im considering these wheels in bronze for my cbp. Was there a functional reason for going with the 9.5" vs 9 or 8.5? It seems a lot of people here still run 245s and I think you're one of the few running 265s at that size. Also, on price did you find online or a local dealer gave you a better deal?
im considering these wheels in bronze for my cbp. Was there a functional reason for going with the 9.5" vs 9 or 8.5? It seems a lot of people here still run 245s and I think you're one of the few running 265s at that size. Also, on price did you find online or a local dealer gave you a better deal?
Ideally I wanted a 19", 9" wide rim in a 35 offset, but the 19" Nurburgrings only come with a 20 offset. So, I decided to go wider with a 9.5" rim and a 41 offset in our 5x120 bolt pattern to get a little more grip in the turns. Also, I did not want rim edge exposed after the tire was installed, so I opted for the 265 tires instead of the 245 the majority of the other forum members get. The result is that my car takes curves and turns very well especially with the KPC rear camber kit to get it back to specs. I have only been able to get the tires to break loose in a turn once. Although the 19" Nurburgring rim and tire setup I have is wider than the stock 18's, it still weighs 2 lbs lighter each wheel/tire. The downside is that 265/35/19 tires are more expensive than 245/35/20 tires if I ran a 20" rim instead.
I ordered my tires and wheels from the Discount Tire in town. It took less than a week for them to be shipped from CA to AZ. He gave me a small discount since I came in there knowing the exact wheel and tire I wanted and saved him some time ringing me up.
Ideally I wanted a 19", 9" wide rim in a 35 offset, but the 19" Nurburgrings only come with a 20 offset. So, I decided to go wider with a 9.5" rim and a 41 offset in our 5x120 bolt pattern to get a little more grip in the turns. Also, I did not want rim edge exposed after the tire was installed, so I opted for the 265 tires instead of the 245 the majority of the other forum members get. The result is that my car takes curves and turns very well especially with the KPC rear camber kit to get it back to specs. I have only been able to get the tires to break loose in a turn once. Although the 19" Nurburgring rim and tire setup I have is wider than the stock 18's, it still weighs 2 lbs lighter each wheel/tire. The downside is that 265/35/19 tires are more expensive than 245/35/20 tires if I ran a 20" rim instead.
I ordered my tires and wheels from the Discount Tire in town. It took less than a week for them to be shipped from CA to AZ. He gave me a small discount since I came in there knowing the exact wheel and tire I wanted and saved him some time ringing me up.
i've been looking for shops here that will do it, but a lot don't want to since its out of oem spec, which is something i notice when you put it into any of the auto wheel selectors out there. Is the rear camber necessary due to rubbing (slightly wider rear track). I'm trying to keep stock height..would rolling still be necessary?
no discount tire here, other than merchants/ntb, the next closest are auto effects and house of dubs (heh). I'll try searching yelp for reviews of these guys..or am i misjudging doing the install at merchants?
i've been looking for shops here that will do it, but a lot don't want to since its out of oem spec, which is something i notice when you put it into any of the auto wheel selectors out there. Is the rear camber necessary due to rubbing (slightly wider rear track). I'm trying to keep stock height..would rolling still be necessary?
no discount tire here, other than merchants/ntb, the next closest are auto effects and house of dubs (heh). I'll try searching yelp for reviews of these guys..or am i misjudging doing the install at merchants?
location is the md/dc area
I got the rear camber for the opposite reason. With my car lowered, I had too much negative camber per my alignment shop, and it was going to lead to premature tire wear. So I installed the SPC rear kit and got the camber back to factory specs by the alignment shop. I'm not rubbing since I rolled my rear fenders as well as trimmed the plastic tab the connects the rear bumper to the rear quarter panel and because my setup is not that agressive.
Whether or not you rub will depend on how wide of a rim you get, the offset of the rim, and how wide of a tire you get for the rim. Keeping your car stock height will reduce the chances you rub. But if your tire is sticking too far from the fender, you will rub eventually from too much weight in the rear of your car or from hitting a large enough bump in the road. I used this website a lot when I was calculating my tire/rim setup, and I used the 18" SH-AWD rim/tire specs for a starting point (18" rim, 8" width, 55 offset, 245/45/18 tire): Will They Fit
did you ever have the nurburgrings and rode at stock height? I feel like the CBP masks the need for a drop so I'm trying to figure out if I can swap them in a stock height and not roll or play with the camber. I've stared at your pics for some time Si1.6 (haha) and it honestly looks like it JUST fits. My gueestimate with tape measure and my friends opinion is that it SHOULD tuck at stock height. Still with no shops here willing to work on it, I'd probably have to buy it pre-mounted as a set and then just swap in the wheels at any decent shop.
did you ever have the nurburgrings and rode at stock height? I feel like the CBP masks the need for a drop so I'm trying to figure out if I can swap them in a stock height and not roll or play with the camber. I've stared at your pics for some time Si1.6 (haha) and it honestly looks like it JUST fits. My gueestimate with tape measure and my friends opinion is that it SHOULD tuck at stock height. Still with no shops here willing to work on it, I'd probably have to buy it pre-mounted as a set and then just swap in the wheels at any decent shop.
I put on my nuburgrings after I lowered my car and rolled my fenders. dankgummy put 20's on his TL that are 9" wide in a 35 offset. Here are pics of his ride. It's at stock height, a CBP, and I don't think he rolled his fenders: https://acurazine.com/forums/photogr...thread-861405/
I put on my nuburgrings after I lowered my car and rolled my fenders. dankgummy put 20's on his TL that are 9" wide in a 35 offset. Here are pics of his ride. It's at stock height, a CBP, and I don't think he rolled his fenders: https://acurazine.com/forums/photogr...thread-861405/
I'll try seeing where he got his install done, worried about random shop scratching up the wheels.
Im thinking about 19" concave wheels all around. Most of the 19" wheels are 8.5 or 9" wide. I do like the concavity of the Vossen, Rohana or Tsw wheels. According to this thread u only get concave looks if u go with 10" but I dont really want staggered for tire rotation purposes. Would 19x9 has good concavity? Any suggestion on manufacturers? Has anyone seen 19x9 concave rims and how did it look?
1.Brand of Rim - AG M590
2.Rim size (diameter and width) - 20x8.5
3.Offset - +35
4.Brand of tire - Toyo Proxes
5.Tire size - 255/35/20
6.Drop Type and Amount - Tein SA
7.Do they rub - On big dips. Need to roll the fenders and I will be good.
8. Transmission type - AT
9. Picture - __________________
1.Brand of Rim - Niche Verona M150
2.Rim size (diameter and width) - 20x10.5
3.Offset - +35
4.Brand of tire - Toyo Proxes 4 Plus
5.Tire size - 245/35/20
6.Drop Type and Amount - Tein SS
7.Do they rub - Occasional on big dips going fast; fenders rolled
8. Transmission type - 6MT
9. Picture -
can you post a side shot of the wheels and fender?. Nice set up BTW
1.Brand of Rim - AG M590
2.Rim size (diameter and width) - 20x8.5
3.Offset - +35
4.Brand of tire - Toyo Proxes
5.Tire size - 255/35/20
6.Drop Type and Amount - Tein SA
7.Do they rub - On big dips. Need to roll the fenders and I will be good.
8. Transmission type - AT
9. Picture - __________________
1.Brand of Rim - TSW Nurburgring
2.Rim size - 19 x 9.5 squared
3.Offset - 41
4.Brand of tire - Continental ExtremeContact DW
5.Tire size - 265/35/19
6.Drop Type and Amount - Tein SS with EDFC
7.Do they rub - No, but rolled fenders just in case
8. Transmission type - Manual
9. Picture -
1.Brand of Rim - TSW Nurburgring
2.Rim size - 19 x 8
3.Offset - 35
4.Brand of tire - Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3
5.Tire size - 245/40/19
6.Drop Type and Amount - stock
7.Do they rub - Nope, stock height
8. Transmission type - Manual
1.Brand of Rim - Vossen
2.Rim size (diameter and width) - 20x9 20x10.5
3.Offset - 35/42
4.Brand of tire - Nankang ns20
5.Tire size - 235/35 245/35
6.Drop Type and Amount - tein ss coilovers, wheel gap delete
7.Do they rub - front rubs on turns if theres a bump
8. Transmission type - auto
9. Picture -
1.Brand of Rim - Vossen VVS-083
2.Rim size (diameter and width) - 19x8.5
3.Offset - +30
4.Brand of tire -Achilles ATR 2
5.Tire size - 245/40 19
6.Drop Type and Amount - Megan EZ Street C/O 2.5 in approx
7.Do they rub - Rolled fenders...Sometimes..but not too often
8. Transmission type - Auto
1.Brand of Rim - Vossen VVS-CV2
2.Rim size (diameter and width) - 20x9
3.Offset - +35
4.Brand of tire - Toyo Proxes4
5.Tire size - 245/35ZR20
6.Drop Type and Amount - Tein SS w/EDFC
7.Do they rub - After rolled fenders, Nope
8. Transmission type - M/T
9. Picture -
How many guys consider the actual weight of their wheels when upgrading? I' m guessing that most of the 20" wheels, especilaay the 10" + width have to be pushing 30lbs per wheel. Thats unsprung weight! While they look great, it has to have a direct effect on the vehicle's performance. That's rolling weight that will definetly slow down a car's zero to sixty and effect the handling in a negative way.. I just find it curious when you see J-Pipe, exhaust and other "performance" upgrades being nulified by heavy wheels.
The aftermarket exhaust and j pipe do help reduce a small amount of weight. Our wheels, not in 20" though it does help to have forged wheels to help make up for the size difference. The TL still has enough power to get up on the 20's. Not as quick but to me it's worth the slower 0-60.
Point well taken carbon TSEX. For those who are buying the big/wide 20s for the look and don' t care about the effect on performance, I get it. It's the guys you see with the big wheels an the J pipe, exhaust and all kinds of high priced performances upgrades compromising those performance upgrades with heavy wheels. Again, if it's about the look, i get, if it's about performance, it doesn't make much sense..
08-13-2014, 09:35 PM
Picture-1.jpg by Sense Photo, on Flickr
