deadeyes

Is any one having their clutch fail. I took my 2010 TL 6 speed manual (only 4622 miles) in to the dealer because I noticed a smell similar to pesticide coming from the engine. I was told that I was riding the clutch. That the clutch coating was burning. I have had a Manual for the last 25 years and I know how to operate a manual. Acura is replacing it "as a courtesy" but I am wondering if any one else is having this issue. Also my hill assist fail error keeps popping up. I see in another thread that this is a problem, but I am wondering if there is a correlation.

Pete2010

Haven't had any issues like you're reporting, but it's sad to hear that the dealership goes right to "you don't know how to drive it right".

I don't know much about the internals of 6MT transmission, but isn't there a part that puts pressure on the clutch against the transmission? What if that was failing?

JM2010 SH-AWD

No problems here, but only about 8200 miles on the car. I think you're the first to report any clutch issue with the car.

I did read a thread on the forum (try a search) where someone reported that the Hill Assist error light can be triggered by not fully depressing the clutch at a stop.

Six Shifter

44,500 + miles and no problems ... but then again when I got rid of the CL it still had the OEM clutch.

Mr Marco

Standard stealership response. Had a 1988 Cutlass Calais with Buick 3ltr and 5 speed manual when I was 18. I drove it for about 2,000 miles and the clutch went out. The car had 30k on it and they told me I had burned it up. Sure. Maybe.

TL-Rocket

What is "Hill Assist"

TL-Rocket

Pete2010

Holds your car on an incline when you have the clutch pedal pressed down and the car in gear (normally you would roll backwards). I believe it holds for a couple seconds or when you give it gas and go. It freaking rocks for 6MT.

ysabba

I just had my 2010 TL clutch fail at less than 6000 miles. I've been driving stick for 45 years. I was also told that I'm probably riding the clutch. The VSA, Hill Assist issue is a computer issue that Acura acknowledged and corrected with an update.

ysabba

I suspect Six Sifter drives mostly on a highway. Try getting 45000 miles on a clutch in Manhattan.

HeartTLs

iTrader: (5)

Lol huge mistake, I thought long hand hard when I got my AT TL because it's my daily driver; as if city (NYC) driving isn't bad enough already I didn't want the added hassle of driving MT in it.

6SpdTerror

I live and drive in NYC everyday, never had an issue with any of my clutches and this is my 3rd 6mt TL. My 05 and 08 type S were right around 30k when i got rid of them on the original cluthces and they still had great bite. BTW i DO NOT baby my cars!! I drive with purpose almost all the time!! So far i have about 1500 miles on the '11 6MT and havent had any issues yet. Im assuming since our cars are AWD it puts a lot more strain on the clutch so only time will tell if its some sort of factory issue.

docboy

Dam it, I hope it's not happening to me.

Today while stopped at an inclined hill at an intersection, I noticed the clutch wouldn't grab and I almost stalled as the light turned green. I pushed the clutch in a tad and gave it more gas, and noticed for some reason the tach went up to 4,000 rpms!

I thought something was funny and the clutch felt different, like it became "smaller."

Then in my neighborhood, I tested out the clutch again. Starting at a standstill, shift into first, and I let out the clutch slowly and all fully released the cluch. Without giving gas, the car went into motion!

Same thing happened when I tried to start out in 2nd gear directly.

I tried to start out in 3rd gear out of curiosity, but the car shook back and forth.

Is my clutch failing???

I'm at 18,000 miles and I certainly don't drag race, ride the clutch, or launch the car at 4k rpms. Of course I have to deal with the hills and slopes of Seattle...

JBKap

I've own a 2010 AWD 6sp manual TL, with performance tire package, exactly 2 years ago. I have 28,450 miles on the vehicle and just the other day I was driving it and the car seemed like it was delaying when attempting to accelerate when in any gear. Brought it into dealership and come to find out that its diagnosed as a clutch issue that ruined (warped) the fly wheel. Dealership (Gettal Acura in Sarasota) told me no warranty can be applied because ..... clutch is bad because I ride the clutch and drive the car wrong and this ruined the flywheel.. Now instead of warrantee coverage they want over 3k to fix clutch and flywheel.. My question is how the hell does the warranty (regional) guy know how I drive my car and that he can put the blame of this clutch issue on me? And not on a faulty clutch or flywheel? When did acura start building vehicles that needed 3k repairs after only 28k milage and 2 years of driving? Also, I had 2006 Acura Tl 6sp manual that i traded in with 81k milage and never any clutch work ever performed? I want to know if anyone knows about this type of treatment?

jim_c

Did they actually work on your car - remove the transmission and clutch to inspect? It is impossible to know for sure what is wrong unless you take it apart. If they diagnosed it from just driving the car, they are guessing. They may be right, but they don't know for sure. I don't know how this hill assist feature works or the delay valve in with the slave cylinder, but there could be other reasons beyond bad driving as to why a clutch might fail. There could be broken fingers in the pressure plate if it is a diaphragm type clutch e.g.. It is very common for a "Japanese" vehicles traditionally to easily do 200,000 km on one clutch so whatever is wrong with these TLs is very likely something relating to the new features they have recently introduced.

jim_c

And even if it does need a new clutch, $3k sounds pretty outrageous.

D-Rod

Recently had my clutch master cylinder replaced under warranty (10' SH-AWD, 28k mi) Had been noticing a clicking noise while operating clutch pedal. I didn't think much of it, but once while trying to take off from a stop my clutch pedal didn't return, turns out there was a service bulletin for this issue. Maybe this issue is also causing premature clutch/flywheel problems?

docboy

Service bulletin = TSB?

Would you mind elaborating on the service bulletin? Is there a link for this notice? Thanks.

D-Rod

Yes, a technical service bulletin;

"11-004

January 26, 2013

Applies To:
2004-08 TL - ALL with M/T
*2010-11 TL-AL with M/T
2012 TL with M/T - From VIN 19UUA9E..CA000001 thru 19UUA9E..CA000672*

Clutch Pedal Pops, Squeaks, or Clicks
(Supersedes 11-004, dated March 31, 2011, to revise the information marked by asterisks)

REVISION SUMMARY

*In Applies To, under PARTS INFORMATION, and under REPAIR PROCEDURE, 2010-12 model years were added.*

SYMPTOM

The clutch pedal pops, squeaks, or clicks when you press or release it.

PROBABLE CAUSE

The clutch master cylinder has insufficient clearance between the piston and the push rod.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Replace the clutch master cylinder.

PARTS INFORMATION

Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly:
2004-08: P/N 46920-S7A-A04
(Includes clutch master cylinder, O-ring, seal, and snap pin)

*2010-12: P/N: 46925-TA0-A02
(Includes clutch master cylinder, O-ring, seal, except snap pin)

Snap Pin: P/N 46942-S5A-003*

REQUIRED MATERIALS

Honda Genuine DOT 3 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008
(Each repair requires one bottle.)

Honda Genuine Silicone Grease: P/N 08C30-B0234M

WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION

The normal warranty applies.

Operation Number: 211101

Flat Rate Time: 1.1 hours

Failed Part: P/N 46920-57A-A03

Defect Code: 03214

Symptom Code: 04201

Skill Level: Repair Technician"

TimbukTL

Thanks for the heads-up on the TSB for the clicking/popping clutch pedal - I get that every now and then, and figured it was either my shoe or a void behind the clutch pedal cover that was clicking. I also get the hill climb assist error warning about once a week, usually when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Will need to mention both when I bring it in (under warranty still with 27k miles).

91lgndsdn

Hey all, I've got about 36k on my 2012 SH-AWD M/T and today I got the feeling that 3rd is slipping. It happened when I was already shifted in 3rd at about 3-4k rpms and tried to accelerate. I see the rpms go up but then drop again as the clutch catches. Anybody else experienced this?

shurik74

I don't have major issues with clutch as peeps described above. However, about two/three times a week I get different point of clutch engagement almost at the top, normally it's kinda in the middle, because of that I get gears "scratched" that bothering me a lot. Took the car to the dealer and of course first response was "you are riding you clutch too hard"... yea, right with 20 years driving clutch... left TL for a day for full diagnostics/test drive and nothing wrong was found. Planning to take to another high end private mechanic/shop to see what they tell me...

I do get "hill assistant" error messages but they don't bother me much

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

You may want to try swapping out the MTF. I wasn't experiencing slipping but I was getting the 3rd gear popout. I installed some shifter cable bushings and changed the MTF at the same time (@ 30k miles). It hasn't popped out since.

This may be a result of the clutch delay valve. My understanding it not only does it slow down the engaging / disengaging of the clutch but it also makes the point of engagement inconsistent.

shurik74

Yep, the point of engagement inconsistent. I will have CDV checked as well. I think someone mentioned about it already or just removed CDV, need to look for the thread.

Thank you

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately you can't have it checked. The fact that it's there is what is causing your issue. No one has removed it on the 4G TL yet but it's bound to happen sooner or later. I keep saying I'm gonna do it but something always seems to get in the way. Ideally I'm going to buy another slave cylinder so I can play with it and determine the best way to remove the CDV since it's different than other Acura models.

Click here for reference.

ndnTL

I've got about 31k on my 2011 TL 6MT. Heard the clicking clutch pedal a few times, just thought it was probably a switch related to the push button start.

I also have in-consistences in clutch engagement levels. Maybe thats whats causing all these premature clutch failures? What could possibly be the advantage of a CDV?

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

IMO yes, it definitely plays a part in the premature clutch failures.

The advantage is that it reduces drivetrain shock. This is one area where I am slightly hesitant to remove it from the TL as I don't know if there would be any negative impacts since it's SH-AWD. I have no reason to think there would be but it's uncharted territory for me.

My old car had one and there were a ton of premature clutch failures. I removed it very shortly after buying and never had a problem (put 100k miles on it). I took it to the dealer for an unrelated warranty issue at one point and the tech swore I had an aftermarket clutch b/c of how well it grabbed.

91lgndsdn

Dealership couldn't duplicate the slippage. Another issue I have is the cruise disengaging when I try to accelerate at a high speed. Definitely due to clutch slipping. Again, they couldn't duplicate the problem. They told me all that they could tell is that the clutch does take longer to engage and that could possibly indicate clutch wear. I would have to pay for them to tear down the transmission in order to inspect the clutch and that if it was just wear it would not be covered by warranty. Car is almost 3 years old with 36k. Drive train is still under warranty 6 years (70k).

shurik74

^^^ Sux to hear that...

I never trust dealership after two great experiences with them. I spoke to everyone I could to find a good mechanic with own shop to give me real answers and get stuff done. So, far happy and never would go to dealer again unless car is under warranty and speak to them hard ;(

91lgndsdn

Wanted to post an update. So after much debating and discussions between me and the dealership management, they conceded that Acura "as a goodwill gesture" would cover the costs of a new clutch (except for me paying $500). Still not happy with that arrangement but I got my transmission fixed and I don't think I would have gotten that job done anywhere else for less.
Now I have another issue in that after they installed the new clutch, pressure plate, bearing and flywheel, they did some adjustment to the clutch pedal and now it feels and looks like it's too high.

Ant$

i have 39000 miles on my 2010 and the dealership told me that the clutch is a little "low" and that i'll need to have everything replaced before the year is out. cost: $3400. does that sound right?

Hefrum

I have owned this car for about three years now, and I truly love the performance and handling of this vehicle. However about a month ago I noticed that when I stepped on the gas with the car in a higher gear with the engine RPM about 2500 I noticed the tach jumping up about 3k before the drivetrain would catch up.


I also noticed that If I hit resume on the cruise control to soon that the tach would jump up and the cruise would deactivate.


I took the car back to Acura to find that I too do not know how to drive a 6 SPMT. I have owned Sports cars with manual transmissions for years. I have never had a clutch fail at 49k miles on a vehicle that is only 3 years old. My friendly dealer also informed me that the clutch is a wear item not covered by warranty. For $3,750.00 they would be happy to fix the car with OEM parts.


I truly believe that Acura has a design problem here...


I have been doing some research for alternative clutch packages that might prove to be more reliable. I found a stage two clutch that uses Kevlar...


This is a Phoenix Friction Stage 2 Kevlar Street Performance Clutch Kit. The kit features an OE Pressure Plate and a Phoenix Friction high heat Kevlar spring dampened disc. This Kevlar clutch guarantees a chatter free engagement, and is without a doubt the smoothest engaging clutch on the market today. It will provide up to a 20% increase in engine torque capacity over the OE clutch. At the same time, you will not notice any increase in pedal effort over the stock clutch. Since there are no metal or abrasive particles in the friction material, Kevlar significantly reduces flywheel wear, and provides 300% longer life than that of original equipment under normal driving conditions. Note: Kevlar is a high tech material that needs up to a 1000 mile break in period to properly seat for optimum performance.


Can anyone enlighten me on the difference between the factory stage one clutch compared to this stage two design?


I plan to take my time to understand the best way to fix this problem without adding unnecessary force / wear and tear on the motor or drive train..

shurik74

Any news / updates? Please share if you have anything to add here...

Any news too? Please share

Thank you for sharing on re-search you made. I would love to here comments here too...

PMB107

Experienced the similar issue with my 2012 TL SH-AWD M/T with less than 60k miles. Acura dealer says entire clutch needs to be replaced for approximately $3,600. Unless Acura does something to defray the cost, which doesn't sound likely, this will be my first and last Acura.

aeubank

With all of that drivetrain (SH-AWD) this has got to put a significant load on the clutch, but it is dis-heartening to see so many folks having clutch issues.


I had a 92 Maxima and it was still running the original clutch after 200k miles so if the stealer told me I was riding the clutch I'd ask him what he was smoking.. This stage II Kevlar solution sounds good..


I'm in the hunt for a 2013 model but not sure if it's worth the hassle if the clutch has such a short life.

docboy

I too have been told by the stealership I "don't know how to drive a manual." I'm at 54k miles and I'm getting the weiry feeling my clutch is slipping. I'll have to pay close attention to see if the rpms are dropping when I accelerate after shifting.

It appears that people are getting quotes of $3500 (give or take) to have the clutch replaced. Is that the average cost of clutch replacement for most models/makes?

I too have been told by the stealership I "don't know how to drive a manual." We have wonderful Acura dealerships.

aeubank

Correct me if I'm wrong but Acura did NOT sell the 6mt TL in 2014??


If this is the case, then they know of the issues inherent with the clutch.. And the SOB's don't seem like they're doing anything about it. Maybe it's called 'research' and they could stall for like 10 years..


There has got to be a reason this one of a small few cars with an AWD platform and a 6mt. All of that force must come past the clutch and it can't take it for an extended period. I'm GLAD I found this forum and my heart is truly broken with this sad fact.


This would be a definite show-stopper for me. I'd stay tuned to see if anyone made it to 100k and how many clutches you had to replace.. I'm guessing 2-3..

liquidneon

Not exactly sure what you're so upset about. Inherent issues with the clutch? That is a gross over-exaggeration. What are you basing this on? the fact that you've read a few posts on here (out of thousands of these cars on the road) with a similar issue and that makes it inherent? So you don't think anyone with a 6MT has made it to 100K without a new clutch?

aeubank

I'm not upset.. Trust me.. I am real disappointed because the Tl is a GREAT car but the mfr seems to handle the issue poorly when users have clutch issues. Not saying that everyone WILL have clutch issues, but it seems that IF you have an issue, the manufacturer does not seem to be standing behind their product. Sure it has been a few posts here but my guess is that everyone that owns a 6mt car isn't on here (and there haven't been thousands produced either.. Relatively small demand methinks). And the cost of the replacement and the fact that they removed the 6mt for the 2014 year indicates to me that Acura KNOWS there's an issue and does not appear to be issuing a recall.

Also, I'm waiting for someone to post here if they've gotten to 100k on the original clutch and release mechanism.. Anyone yet?? That is my basis.

91lgndsdn

Well it's been almost a year now. I'm at 44,661 miles and the clutch is still holding, drives great. I love the way this car drives but somehow I feel like I'll wear this clutch out soon, again. I am seriously considering going aftermarket the Phoenix Friction Stage 2 Kevlar Street Performance Clutch Kit mentioned by Hefrum sounds good but I can't find that they show a clutch for the 2012 TL. I do know SPEC has several stage types. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to go with the OEM flywheel since I can't find that there are any aftermarket on that dual-mass flywheel and it's pricey. Best I've found is $1,095.95. The SPEC Stage 2+ is about $950 it also has a Kevlar disc. We'll see, right now I'm just keep driving the hell out of this one.

91lgndsdn

I'm betting Acura just didn't figure how mating the new 305HP 3.7L V6 to a manual transmission along with the SH-AWD would affect the clutch disc if driven. I too would like to know if any M/T 4G'ers out there are getting more miles on the OEM clutch. Also, how it's driven. I have to admit I have to feather the clutch at times when I'm caught on an incline in stop and go traffic and especially backing up into my garage everyday so I expect the clutch will need replacing again. I just don't think the OEM is up for the abuse.