Intake n ktuner
02-13-2017, 11:52 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Intake n ktuner
So, was gonna resurrect an old thread, but, none of them really apply.
What I currently have are the pcds, and looking to get ktuner in the summer.
Question I have is, with the pcd and ktuner, would I see additional benefits with the takeda Sri, or would the gains be negligible and a waste of time/money just for the sound.
I also currently have the drop in filter already as a side note
I've read through most of the threads, but most only apply to Sri + stock setup / Sri + jpipe
What I currently have are the pcds, and looking to get ktuner in the summer.
Question I have is, with the pcd and ktuner, would I see additional benefits with the takeda Sri, or would the gains be negligible and a waste of time/money just for the sound.
I also currently have the drop in filter already as a side note
I've read through most of the threads, but most only apply to Sri + stock setup / Sri + jpipe
02-13-2017, 06:42 PM
#2
So, was gonna resurrect an old thread, but, none of them really apply.
What I currently have are the pcds, and looking to get ktuner in the summer.
Question I have is, with the pcd and ktuner, would I see additional benefits with the takeda Sri, or would the gains be negligible and a waste of time/money just for the sound.
I also currently have the drop in filter already as a side note
I've read through most of the threads, but most only apply to Sri + stock setup / Sri + jpipe
What I currently have are the pcds, and looking to get ktuner in the summer.
Question I have is, with the pcd and ktuner, would I see additional benefits with the takeda Sri, or would the gains be negligible and a waste of time/money just for the sound.
I also currently have the drop in filter already as a side note
I've read through most of the threads, but most only apply to Sri + stock setup / Sri + jpipe
The best Intake for your car in terms of performance is the Stock Intake. The SRI will sound awesome but the heat soak will minimize any gains you get from your other mods and K Tuner. The aftermarket Intake will require custom tuning for incorrectly sized MAF housing.
Personal opinion.......if you are looking to maximize performance stay away from SRI. Had one sold it and never looked back, I currently have the IceBox and if i didn't then it would be the Stock Intake for me.
Last edited by KarKraze; 02-13-2017 at 06:45 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by KarKraze:
justnspace (02-14-2017),
teh CL (02-14-2017)
02-13-2017, 10:45 PM
#3
Looking at strictly performance? The SRI will probably perform worse than the stock intake. The stock intake has a great low intake duct so you'll get nice cool air all the time. I personally LOVE the sound of the SRI and that's the only reason I keep mine on.
The following 2 users liked this post by Blaze9:
HeartTLs (02-22-2017),
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02-14-2017, 07:42 AM
#4
SRI is bad, mmmkay....
if you truely wanted to upgrade for performance, look into the icebox ....or look into a 4 inch intake...you can either DIY or buy an airraid 4 inch kit.
a 4 inch diameter cold air intake system will give you gainzz.....couple that with PCD and KTUNER, and you'll see a few horsies
if you truely wanted to upgrade for performance, look into the icebox ....or look into a 4 inch intake...you can either DIY or buy an airraid 4 inch kit.
a 4 inch diameter cold air intake system will give you gainzz.....couple that with PCD and KTUNER, and you'll see a few horsies
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teh CL (02-14-2017)
03-08-2017, 08:40 AM
#7
Are there threads to dyno runs that prove this? While my car isn't a TL, the J35Z3 in it responds the same way the TL J series does. There is a dyno thread on DA where a bone stock 9th gen Accord 6-6 gained over 10HP and almost as much torque by simply cracking the lid of the airbox open. That's without a tune. I won't get into the CAI vs SRI argument - but I KNOW my Takeda SRI was worth power over the stock intake BEFORE my dyno tune when I was running PCD's, J-Pipe, 3.7 IM / TB. It put down a tick over 270WHP down on a DynoJet BEFORE the tune. While my tuner did have to clean up some of the MAF scaling because of the intake, the intake still gained power over the stock intake.
Last Summer (I live in VA and it gets hot and very humid) I ran a homemade SRI that matched the diameter of the stock intake piping (one of the more important details, since the MAF sensor is looking for a certain volume of air and a lot of that is based on the diameter of the intake piping. Again this becomes a moot point once you get the car custom tuned. I cobbled the intake together for the express purpose of data logging while driving. I wanted to take a look at IAT temps. I kept hearing how bad SRI's were for IAT temps. How you lose power vs. the stock intake. What I found from the log files and watching real time IAT temps was almost opposite of what everyone seems to believe.
This was a stock J35Z3 at the time.
High ambient temps meant of course that IAT's were high WHEN THE CAR WAS AT A STOP. Once the car started moving AT ALL, the Intake temp dropped pretty much immediately. In fact the ONLY differences between the SRI and the OEM intake was that the temps dropped a bit faster with the SRI. The OEM intake retained the temp a bit longer. Not a huge difference, but a difference nonetheless.
Now I have the Takeda SRI. It's installed like normal, but I left the lower half of the factory air box in. The filter sits right over the top of this. Does this help route some cooler air in - maybe who knows. I DO KNOW that the reduction in underhood temps from installing ceramic coated PCD's made a noticeable difference in IAT readings in the hot summer months.
Regardless, saying that the OEM intake system makes more power over the SRI / CAI is more than a bit disingenuous - especially when just cracking the OEM air box lid on the dyno was worth over 10WHP.
Last Summer (I live in VA and it gets hot and very humid) I ran a homemade SRI that matched the diameter of the stock intake piping (one of the more important details, since the MAF sensor is looking for a certain volume of air and a lot of that is based on the diameter of the intake piping. Again this becomes a moot point once you get the car custom tuned. I cobbled the intake together for the express purpose of data logging while driving. I wanted to take a look at IAT temps. I kept hearing how bad SRI's were for IAT temps. How you lose power vs. the stock intake. What I found from the log files and watching real time IAT temps was almost opposite of what everyone seems to believe.
This was a stock J35Z3 at the time.
High ambient temps meant of course that IAT's were high WHEN THE CAR WAS AT A STOP. Once the car started moving AT ALL, the Intake temp dropped pretty much immediately. In fact the ONLY differences between the SRI and the OEM intake was that the temps dropped a bit faster with the SRI. The OEM intake retained the temp a bit longer. Not a huge difference, but a difference nonetheless.
Now I have the Takeda SRI. It's installed like normal, but I left the lower half of the factory air box in. The filter sits right over the top of this. Does this help route some cooler air in - maybe who knows. I DO KNOW that the reduction in underhood temps from installing ceramic coated PCD's made a noticeable difference in IAT readings in the hot summer months.
Regardless, saying that the OEM intake system makes more power over the SRI / CAI is more than a bit disingenuous - especially when just cracking the OEM air box lid on the dyno was worth over 10WHP.
Trending Topics
03-09-2017, 12:24 PM
#8
Moderator
- Stock: Best performance at low rpm, which is where your engine will spend most of its time if it’s a daily driver. If you don’t want increased induction noise, this option will offer the quietest ride. This is recommended for those who use their car as a daily driver and want the greatest low-end power which is ideal for city driving.
- SRI: Adds some benefit over the stock system, but only at high rpm. This also increases induction noise. Power seems to taper as the engine bay heats up. This is a budget-friendly option for cars which frequently visit the track, and also reduces the risk of pulling in water via the filter versus a CAI.
- CAI: For overall performance, this is the best option when the engine is revved to higher rpm. Induction noise is increased. A downside is that the location of the filter could potentially hydrolock the engine by pulling in water, as it is often located close to the ground. This is recommended for track or drag vehicles which keep the engine revs at higher rpm.
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stevesin (03-09-2017)
03-14-2017, 12:50 AM
#9
Are there threads to dyno runs that prove this? While my car isn't a TL, the J35Z3 in it responds the same way the TL J series does. There is a dyno thread on DA where a bone stock 9th gen Accord 6-6 gained over 10HP and almost as much torque by simply cracking the lid of the airbox open. That's without a tune. I won't get into the CAI vs SRI argument - but I KNOW my Takeda SRI was worth power over the stock intake BEFORE my dyno tune when I was running PCD's, J-Pipe, 3.7 IM / TB. It put down a tick over 270WHP down on a DynoJet BEFORE the tune. While my tuner did have to clean up some of the MAF scaling because of the intake, the intake still gained power over the stock intake.
Last Summer (I live in VA and it gets hot and very humid) I ran a homemade SRI that matched the diameter of the stock intake piping (one of the more important details, since the MAF sensor is looking for a certain volume of air and a lot of that is based on the diameter of the intake piping. Again this becomes a moot point once you get the car custom tuned. I cobbled the intake together for the express purpose of data logging while driving. I wanted to take a look at IAT temps. I kept hearing how bad SRI's were for IAT temps. How you lose power vs. the stock intake. What I found from the log files and watching real time IAT temps was almost opposite of what everyone seems to believe.
This was a stock J35Z3 at the time.
High ambient temps meant of course that IAT's were high WHEN THE CAR WAS AT A STOP. Once the car started moving AT ALL, the Intake temp dropped pretty much immediately. In fact the ONLY differences between the SRI and the OEM intake was that the temps dropped a bit faster with the SRI. The OEM intake retained the temp a bit longer. Not a huge difference, but a difference nonetheless.
Now I have the Takeda SRI. It's installed like normal, but I left the lower half of the factory air box in. The filter sits right over the top of this. Does this help route some cooler air in - maybe who knows. I DO KNOW that the reduction in underhood temps from installing ceramic coated PCD's made a noticeable difference in IAT readings in the hot summer months.
Regardless, saying that the OEM intake system makes more power over the SRI / CAI is more than a bit disingenuous - especially when just cracking the OEM air box lid on the dyno was worth over 10WHP.
Last Summer (I live in VA and it gets hot and very humid) I ran a homemade SRI that matched the diameter of the stock intake piping (one of the more important details, since the MAF sensor is looking for a certain volume of air and a lot of that is based on the diameter of the intake piping. Again this becomes a moot point once you get the car custom tuned. I cobbled the intake together for the express purpose of data logging while driving. I wanted to take a look at IAT temps. I kept hearing how bad SRI's were for IAT temps. How you lose power vs. the stock intake. What I found from the log files and watching real time IAT temps was almost opposite of what everyone seems to believe.
This was a stock J35Z3 at the time.
High ambient temps meant of course that IAT's were high WHEN THE CAR WAS AT A STOP. Once the car started moving AT ALL, the Intake temp dropped pretty much immediately. In fact the ONLY differences between the SRI and the OEM intake was that the temps dropped a bit faster with the SRI. The OEM intake retained the temp a bit longer. Not a huge difference, but a difference nonetheless.
Now I have the Takeda SRI. It's installed like normal, but I left the lower half of the factory air box in. The filter sits right over the top of this. Does this help route some cooler air in - maybe who knows. I DO KNOW that the reduction in underhood temps from installing ceramic coated PCD's made a noticeable difference in IAT readings in the hot summer months.
Regardless, saying that the OEM intake system makes more power over the SRI / CAI is more than a bit disingenuous - especially when just cracking the OEM air box lid on the dyno was worth over 10WHP.
03-14-2017, 11:51 AM
#10
Moderator
without freeing up all constrictions in the airflow department.. if you got stock size exhaust but everything else is bigger... you wont get much performance.
03-14-2017, 01:10 PM
#11
Exhaust is one of the most misunderstood and misrepresented (especially on the internet) things I've ever seen in my almost 30 years of wrenching. I see so much misinformation and it's frustrating. I've seen "knowledgeable" car guys state that larger exhaust will decrease back pressure and you'll lose power. I've seen people install ebay cat back exhaust systems and swear they gained 20 HP. Years ago, I was lucky enough to have full access to a flywheel dyno setup. This was before the internet. Before smart phones. We tested everything you could think of, including rigging a "jig" of sorts that let us test exhaust system / pipe diameters and mufflers to see what they did for power. You can't have too much exhaust flow. Let me clarify that - using common sense, you can't get too much exhaust flow, but returns are diminishing based on the intake / fuel / air and capacity of the engine. An internal combustion is in essence a large air pump. That's it. So no, you're not likely to gain HP on a 4cyl car with 4" open exhaust over say a single 3" or a dual 2.25 / 2.5. Different engines / drivetrains in different chassis will respond differently to the same mods to a point as well.
First off - myself included - the 'butt dyno' is very rarely accurate to any degree. Who (myself included) wants to spend time and money to install something and then say "I don't really feel a power difference"? Consider it the automotive version of the placebo effect.
Last edited by ctandc; 03-14-2017 at 01:15 PM.
03-14-2017, 01:39 PM
#12
What? By freeing up "all constrictions in the airflow.." are you talking the intake? And I have is stock size exhaust. PCDs, J-Pipe, Magnaflow bolt in 3rd cat / test pipe with stock exhaust pipe sizing. I put down a tick over 270WHP on a DynoJet BEFORE my tune (On a car that claimed 268HP at the flywheel in factory trim). I don't know what you are classifying as much performance.
Exhaust is one of the most misunderstood and misrepresented (especially on the internet) things I've ever seen in my almost 30 years of wrenching. I see so much misinformation and it's frustrating. I've seen "knowledgeable" car guys state that larger exhaust will decrease back pressure and you'll lose power. I've seen people install ebay cat back exhaust systems and swear they gained 20 HP. Years ago, I was lucky enough to have full access to a flywheel dyno setup. This was before the internet. Before smart phones. We tested everything you could think of, including rigging a "jig" of sorts that let us test exhaust system / pipe diameters and mufflers to see what they did for power. You can't have too much exhaust flow. Let me clarify that - using common sense, you can't get too much exhaust flow, but returns are diminishing based on the intake / fuel / air and capacity of the engine. An internal combustion is in essence a large air pump. That's it. So no, you're not likely to gain HP on a 4cyl car with 4" open exhaust over say a single 3" or a dual 2.25 / 2.5. Different engines / drivetrains in different chassis will respond differently to the same mods to a point as well.
First off - myself included - the 'butt dyno' is very rarely accurate to any degree. Who (myself included) wants to spend time and money to install something and then say "I don't really feel a power difference"? Consider it the automotive version of the placebo effect.
Exhaust is one of the most misunderstood and misrepresented (especially on the internet) things I've ever seen in my almost 30 years of wrenching. I see so much misinformation and it's frustrating. I've seen "knowledgeable" car guys state that larger exhaust will decrease back pressure and you'll lose power. I've seen people install ebay cat back exhaust systems and swear they gained 20 HP. Years ago, I was lucky enough to have full access to a flywheel dyno setup. This was before the internet. Before smart phones. We tested everything you could think of, including rigging a "jig" of sorts that let us test exhaust system / pipe diameters and mufflers to see what they did for power. You can't have too much exhaust flow. Let me clarify that - using common sense, you can't get too much exhaust flow, but returns are diminishing based on the intake / fuel / air and capacity of the engine. An internal combustion is in essence a large air pump. That's it. So no, you're not likely to gain HP on a 4cyl car with 4" open exhaust over say a single 3" or a dual 2.25 / 2.5. Different engines / drivetrains in different chassis will respond differently to the same mods to a point as well.
First off - myself included - the 'butt dyno' is very rarely accurate to any degree. Who (myself included) wants to spend time and money to install something and then say "I don't really feel a power difference"? Consider it the automotive version of the placebo effect.
03-14-2017, 01:44 PM
#13
I am skeptical about the intake for this reason at least on the 4G.. the tuners have all said the short rams for some off reason does not give the best numbers compare to stock. But CT does not make the icebox anymore and to me I still feel deep does $550 for an intake is a serious money grab but that my opinion. What or why do you think tuners downplay the idea of getting the SRI FOR THE 4g in your opinion? And I'l think the J37 and J35Y aint to far off like why do they seem to react better to the bolt ons better.
03-14-2017, 01:48 PM
#14
I am skeptical about the intake for this reason at least on the 4G.. the tuners have all said the short rams for some off reason does not give the best numbers compare to stock. But CT does not make the icebox anymore and to me I still feel deep does $550 for an intake is a serious money grab but that my opinion. What or why do you think tuners downplay the idea of getting the SRI FOR THE 4g in your opinion? And I'l think the J37 and J35Y aint to far off like why do they seem to react better to the bolt ons better.
03-14-2017, 06:39 PM
#15
Honestly not sure (why tuners would not recommend SRI's) - my tuner told me from the get go that the SRI on my car was worth some power, but likely threw the MAF scaling off - and it did. That's the first thing he addressed when he tuned my car. Maybe it's not being familiar with straightening out the issues with MAF scaling and SRI's not sure. I've got some 245/45/17 Nitto 555R Drag radials on the way and a pair of Base TL 17x8 wheels to mount 'em on. Traction was a laugh BEFORE my mods. It'll get loose hitting 3rd now. Hopefully get everything in for a Test and Tune trip this Saturday.
10-01-2017, 06:24 PM
#16
Instructor
[QUOTE=KarKraze;15958386]The best Intake for your car in terms of performance is the Stock Intake. The SRI will sound awesome but the heat soak will minimize any gains you get from your other mods and K Tuner. The aftermarket Intake will require custom tuning for incorrectly sized MAF housing.
Personal opinion.......if you are looking to maximize performance stay away from SRI. Had one sold it and never looked back, I currently have the IceBox and if i didn't then it would be the Stock Intake for me.[/QUOT
Even if I get the Takeda and have it tuned with my supporting mods still a no go?
Personal opinion.......if you are looking to maximize performance stay away from SRI. Had one sold it and never looked back, I currently have the IceBox and if i didn't then it would be the Stock Intake for me.[/QUOT
Even if I get the Takeda and have it tuned with my supporting mods still a no go?
10-02-2017, 09:30 PM
#17
[QUOTE=cbryce;16105177]
It seems that the 3.5 guys would benefit more from it especially the accord guys. The housing is smaller than stock.. and the stock IAT temps are cooler than the Short Ram on the 3.7.
The best Intake for your car in terms of performance is the Stock Intake. The SRI will sound awesome but the heat soak will minimize any gains you get from your other mods and K Tuner. The aftermarket Intake will require custom tuning for incorrectly sized MAF housing.
Personal opinion.......if you are looking to maximize performance stay away from SRI. Had one sold it and never looked back, I currently have the IceBox and if i didn't then it would be the Stock Intake for me.[/QUOT
Even if I get the Takeda and have it tuned with my supporting mods still a no go?
Personal opinion.......if you are looking to maximize performance stay away from SRI. Had one sold it and never looked back, I currently have the IceBox and if i didn't then it would be the Stock Intake for me.[/QUOT
Even if I get the Takeda and have it tuned with my supporting mods still a no go?
01-29-2018, 02:07 PM
#18
Intermediate
