Skier4lyfe303

iTrader: (32)

When I replaced my 4G TL clutch line to a SS line I took off the slave cylinder expecting to see a C-clip but there wasn't one. The 3G TL (08-12 Accord shares the same part number) & 2G TSX (13-14 ILX shares the same part number) have a C-clip on one end and a nut that spins freely on the other. To remove the delay valve you take off the C-clip and push it out from the nut end. Well the 4G TL slave cylinder does not have a C-clip it only has the free spinning nut on one end (the end where the C-clip normally is, is a solid end).

There are a couple of ways around this:
-get a different slave cylinder with a C-clip to work (mounting locations looked to be different when I had the 4G TL slave cylinder off the car, comparing it to pictures of the 3G TL slave cylinder). I don't think this will work without making some kind of adapter plate, as the 4G shares most of the parts under "clutch mater cylinder" with the 08-12 V6 Accord (which has the same slave cylinder as the 3G TL).

-take the two spring pins out of the slave cylinder and remove the delay valve from the free spinning nut side (the pins should be holding this nut in place, allowing it to spin freely). Then reassemble and install new spring pins.

The second seems easier and more feasible to me. I was going to try and push the pins out when I had the slave cylinder off of the trans but I wanted to drive the car that night and was running low on time.

After looking at the part diagrams again, Acura does sell just the spring pins (around 70 cents each, 2 are needed).

I may order a new slave cylinder and a set of spring pins, so I can take it apart without a time limit, this seems like the best option for doing this the first time.

Anyone tried this yet?

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that sucks! I expected it to be very similar to the 3G TL / 2G TSX. I guess I should've looked at part numbers before making that assumption. I was planning on doing this in the very near future but not so sure now. If you do figure out a fix be sure to let us know (preferable with some pics too).

Thanks for the info!

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

'Cylinder Assembly, Clutch Slave' part numbers for future reference:

3G TL - 46930-SDP-A01
2G TSX - 46930-SWA-G01
4G TL - 46930-TK5-A01

shurik74

Skier4lyfe303 did you figure out a fix?

Skier4lyfe303

iTrader: (32)

^I haven't bought another slave cylinder to mess with yet. I will be ordering some parts for my 3G TL repair soon, when I do that I'll most likely order a slave cylinder to take apart.

AlexG_6MT

iTrader: (1)

I'm seeing them for $58 or so, doesn't seem like a bad way to do this mod, you have the original in case you want to go back. Probably going to order one and do the same to try it out. How bad is it to get at the slave and swap it out?

Skier4lyfe303

iTrader: (32)

Its not too hard, the clutch line (taking it off and putting it on) is a tedious task with a boxed wrench (only way to do it). I would order two of those 70 cent pins too, I don't see how else you could get it out without removing those (which will most likely damage them).

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Well I ordered the slave cylinder and four pins (just to be safe) last weekend since my local dealer didn't have one in stock. It should arrive by the end of the week and I'm gonna try to 'play' with it this weekend.

I'll post updates to keep you all in the loop. It may take a couple weeks though...busy weekend ahead.

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

Good luck and let us know how the clutch feels when done.

Skier4lyfe303

iTrader: (32)

Any updates yet bronco? I just ordered one of these today along with 2 pins, should be getting it sometime next week.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately no update yet as I've been too busy to invest much time in it. I did try for a little bit to remove the pins but had no luck (I did manage to jab myself in the hand with an icepick though!).

I'm thinking it's probably best to put it in a vice (I think that's what it's called...bolts to a workbench and holds the item you're working on) and try to hammer them out using a mini screwdriver or something similar. The tool needs to be just smaller than the opening so it will catch the pin but can still fit inside the hole that houses the pin. The problem is I don't have a 'vice' to try this.

Let me know what you come up with when you receive yours. My plan was to tinker with the one I bought to figure it out then put it back together and return it. That way I can pull mine and have minimal downtime while removing the CDV (since I already know what to do). No sense spending $80 if I don't have to.

BTW, the pins come in sets of two. I thought I was ordering 4 but instead received 8. Just for future reference...

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

UCF Bronco, yes, vice is correct. Go buy a set of punches from you local hardware or Harbor Freight store to knock the pins out with. They are not expensive, and will make the job easier. Keep them forever and you will always find a use for them.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I actually have a couple punches...used them to set the nails when putting up the chair rail in my daughter's room. I need to see if either is the right size though since the hole in the slave cylinder is pretty small. If not then I should buy a set (always looking for a good reason to expand my tool collection). Thanks for the tip!

I'm thinking I could go to Lowe's or Home Depot and use a vice that they have set up cause I don't plan on buying one nor do I have a place to mount it. I'll try at home first though using a punch and a solid surface...maybe the vice isn't needed.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Well I used the smaller punch and a hammer and was able to get the pins halfway out (no vice was needed as you can set it on the ground for support where the two bolts go). I then used a relatively thick nail and hammer to get them out as much as possible (it hits the metal underneath it). From there a pair of pliers did the rest.

Unfortunately once the pins are out, you pull out the piece that they were holding in and there's nothing behind it! No CDV like I was expecting, just metal. I don't know if that means the 4G TL doesn't have a CDV (unlikely) or if the engineers made it so it cannot be removed.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I don't think it can be disassembled any further.

Here are some pics.

*Shows how the 4G TL is different in that it's solid on this end, no c-clip to remove.


*Top view


*Piece that's removed once the pins are out.


*Looking into the hole where the above piece came from.

Skier4lyfe303

iTrader: (32)

Idk how I missed this for the past three months. I saw your first update on 4/7 and forgot to look again (didn't think you would have updated it on the same day).

Anyways, what a disappointment I was really hoping I could remove this. I wonder if the delay valve is behind the metal wall?

Did you ever look any further into this Bronco?

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I never did look into it any further. I ended up putting the piece back together and returning it to the dealership.

I was very disappointed too...I thought for sure there would be a valve that we could remove (and easily access). Either there isn't one in there or the engineers made it so it could not be removed without tearing apart the slave cylinder.

prepreludesh

This sucks...

I have an idea about how to smooth out/make better the shifting of this car, how about getting a company to make us a solid aluminum (or chromoly or steel, whatever) flywheel instead of the stupid dual mass? Then we can resurface it, not have that strange spongey lag feeling and it would probably make the clutch engagement feel so much more natural.

Is there a company that would do this?

djoulez

still no progress on this yet huh guys?

I came from a 97 m3 that I removed the CDV on and I was much better at shifting in that...

it's not a good feeling when my wife looks over at me with frustration cuz she thinks I shouldn't have bought a manual if I can't make it feel like an automatic lol.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately no progress yet (to the best of my knowledge).

One thing I've noticed is that I'm able to get much smoother shifts when the AC is off...looking forward to the cooler months ahead so this will be a more regular thing.

It takes a lot of concentration to get smooth shifts with the AC on, particularly 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd. I really only pay that kind of attention to my shifts when I have other people in the car.

djoulez

lol bro.

I know how you feel

Trick

Reviving an old thread.... Clutch started to slip around 65k miles. I really don't want to have this work done knowing this thing may be causing pre-mature wear on the flywheel.

For a while I thought ours was like the 3g too.

Wondering if anyone came across any aftermarket slaves?

Trick

edit --- premature wear on the clutch disc....

rokfather

Are there any updates to this issue? I was hoping maybe there was a company that produced modified slave cylinders to address this issue. That may be wishful thinking since the volume of 4G manuals was so low.

Trick

Appears not. I looked around for hours and couldn't find any aftermarket support. Some other manufacturers have check valves built into the line which makes removal simple. This is one quirk we have to live with.

rokfather

Yeah, my 330i's CDV was inline and a piece of cake. I can't believe Acura changed the part to make this nearly impossible. It may still be worth retrofitting from an Accord or 3G TL with some adapters for the mounts and lines. I will wait until I'm out of warranty before exploring that option. I bet a person with the right skills and a machine shop could bore out the OEM part, but that is not me, unfortunately.

I'm wondering if I should use the clutch in a more "on/off" way and let the CDV work as it would with a less experienced manual driver (or whomever they added this part for). Just trying to determine the best way to minimize wear. I've definitely wrote if off for drag-style starts since I shift faster than the synchros can keep up (not a big deal since I bought the car for a daily driver), but I don't want to be replacing the clutch every 60K. I'm at 120k on my 330i's current clutch!