Worm

Hey everyone so this is my first thread so please bare with me and for the mods if it is in the wrong place please move it accordingly. I have an 4th Gen 09 TL and I am installing a 10" Sub with a JL Audio HD750/1 which I will do all myself. I have already replaced the front door speaks as well as the center lid speaker and I will post my vid below on those. The last thing to do now is my 2 rear deck speakers which I already have and will be doing the same time as the sub. I bought the LC2i LOC for the signal for my amp which will be acquired via my old sub L/R into the LC2i. My question is about the remote turn on. My local shop told me to bypass the remote turn on all the way around and just run it straight from a fuse to the amps remote turn on and then I would not have to use any of the connections on the LC2i's remote turn on section "meaning" Remote out, Remote in, +12v or ground. Is this accurate?!?! Can I just bypass this all the way around and run a switched 12v from the fuse box straight to the amp and the LC2i will work correctly? Also if I did decide to go through the LC2i and decided not to use the GTO function exactly how would I run the appropriate cables? I mean I know the ground goes to ground and the remote out goes to the amp and the remote in should come from a switched 12v source but where should the +12v come from can I tap into a fuse for that as well. If I did it without any advice I would run it like as follows... grounded - remote out, to amp - remote in from, driver side fuse (probably accessory) - and +12v from "premium amp fuse" Is this correct or am I misunderstanding something? What is confusing me is why does the LC2i need a +12v constant source and can you get that type of source by using an add a fuse and tapping into something so as not to strip any wires. Some help would be so great thanks to everyone... here are my install vids.

BuckTussa

I confused too. I think you need switched all the way around. You don't want it on with your car off. Get the add a fuse from autozone. Use drivers side number 18 I believe.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I'm not familar with your particular LOC, but I just read up on it and it appears you do not need a separate remote wire.

Per the manual:
"The LC2i turns on all by itself. Just hook up the speaker level inputs and as soon as you turn on the factory audio system the LC2i turns itself on, it provides a 12 volt trigger output to turn on your amplifier."

That's basically your remote wire. This is similar to my LOC..I didn't have to run a separate remote wire either and my amp is not on when my car is off.

You will however still need to run a 4 or 8 gauge wire (with an in-line fuse) to your battery for the amp's power source and connect to an appropriate ground. I used the same passthrough underneath the driver's side wheelwell that the hood release goes through because I didn't want to drill through the firewall.

Hope this helps!

BuckTussa

Potential fire hazard. Use the grommet.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

How is it a potential fire hazard? And what grommet are you referring to?

I pulled the one grommet out of the "hood release hole" because its center was not large enough to fit the wire and cable through. I ensured there was still plenty of room for the hood release cable to move freely though once I got the wire through.

I've been running this setup for almost a year and a half with no issues.

Worm

Ok so i called Audio Control today which is the manufacturer of my LOC. They cleared everything up for me. I have read that a lot of people are getting speaker pop when the use the remote GTO from the LOC and Audio Control confirmed this as well as my local shop. So I asked Audio Control if I could bypass the "in/out" on the LOC itself and just run a remote straight from my tap that I am going to use from a switched 12v and they confirmed that I could do that with no problem but I still need to run the +12v constant from the battery to the LOC as well as the LOC's ground so this is the way I am going to wire it... Ground from LOC to ground,
+12v constant from LOC to battery w/ inline 1amp fuse,
remote turn on from Fuse(to be selected) straight to amp
4Gauge Power From battery to Amp w/ inline 100amp fuse
Ground from Amp to ground
And of course rear stock 8" subs existing speaker wire to L (or) R channel
of LOC and then RCA's to from LOC to Amp.

I believe this way it will get rid of any pop that occurs with turn on. Thanks for the help from above and if you need to ask anything let me know. Also if anyone knows the best fuse to tap for my Amp remote turn on let me know I was thinking just and accessory of some kind. I will get back when the install is complete in a couple of weeks.

BuckTussa

My B should have referenced. I worked at a shop back in the day and seen power run all kinds of ways and seen the wire burn up from rubbing the insulation out over time cuts etc. Fused right of course avoids disaster but still best to avoid any interference with the power wire.

https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-294/4th-gen-firewall-access-easy-way-883672/

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

OP, glad you got it figured out. Your LOC is definitely different than mine (and much more expensive).

Ah, gotcha. I'll have to check it out when I have the chance to see if the insulation is wearing at all. Thanks for the heads up.

Worm

Yeah actually your thread is the thread that I originally found which showed me where i could get through the firewall. AWESOME!!!!!!!
I went out there yesterday and pulled the plug from that access point easy as crap and I have a grommet coming in my Amp wiring kit that I "HOPE!" will fit perfect if not I will get the right size grommet before I finish the install I would never sacrifice the safety of my electrical system for some bass. But I will be running 2 separate wires for the 2 powers "amp & LOC" and both will be covered with flex tube and go through the grommet so I shouldn't have a problem. I will leave nothing to chance!

Worm

Hey I just noticed your in O-Town I lived there for 5 years... well in Kissimmee. I am moving back there in about 2 months probably it will either be there or Vegas. About the LOC yeah it was a bit pricey but a lot of people have seemed to say it does pretty well and I am hoping that it can bring back the low end from the factory roll off like it says it can, that was my main reason for buying it. I read on another thread that he used the LC2i and then got rid of it and just hooked the L/R channel from the speaker wire converted them to RCA straight into the amp and he said he achieved the best sound doing it this way. He has 1 10" W7 ported so we will just see. How does your system sound are you pleased with it? Is it all factory except for the bass?

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I actually live in south Orlando so I'm close to Kissimmee.

I used the speaker wire to RCA converter in my old car and had no issues. I like the one I have better now though since it has the remote wire.

I'm very happy with the sound of my setup, except for the rattles that I need to take care of. On the higher frequency bass my headliner and rear deck rattle. I also need to do the trunk lid.

Everything else is OEM...I was happy with the ELS system other than the sub so I didn't feel the need to make other changes. I just wanted to add a little more kick without overdoing it and while keeping my trunk space.

sympley

Funny I just installed the same LOC this weekend in my TL. I did the wiring a bit differently to avoid running extra cable.

My wiring is as follows:

4 gauge with inline fuse to the trunk where I have the amp and 3 farad capacitor. I use the capacitor as a distribution block. Ground also 4 gauge in trunk as short as possible.

I have power wire from front to the capacitor
I have power wire from capacitor to the amp
I have power wire from capacitor to the LC2i
I have ground wire from amp to capacitor
I have ground wire from Lc2i to capacitor
I have a ground from capacitor to chassis.

Everything works very well. the LC2i senses load on the speaker cables and turns on the amp. There is no thumps/pops on any kind of wired noises. It shuts everything off as well.

I still need to tweak the roll off stuff but it is not as good as I though it will be, better than just a normal LOC but still not there. I will keep on tweaking to find the sweet spot.

Worm

Hey THANKS SO MUCH!! This is great to know I just got my LC2i in today as well as my NVX amp kit as well. I am almost 100% on the entire system and looking forward to the install. Just curious about a couple of things, what size wire did you end up using for the LC2i +12v I figured 16awg would be good. I think I am going to try your set up. Do you get ANY dimming headlights from heavy bass and did you do a big 3 before the install or is everything factory. This makes me rethink things. I was going to get a 1 farad NVX capacitor but decided against it as I didn't have the funds. I have a JL Audio HD 750/1 that I am going to run to 1 10" and i have seen a couple of threads as well as a vid on YouTube to were the HD 750/1 will shut down after about 10min and give the red/green blinking light which indicates either a problem with the amp or insufficient power I hope this does not become a problem with me and am now kind of wishing I went with A smaller amp like a 500 mono. Anyway thanks for the setup scheme it was awesome.

Mr Marco

Wow, how much you all spending on these units?

Worm

What units are you referring to? If you mean the LC2i I spent 75.00 @ Sonic Electronix.

sympley

Wiring for the LC2i 16awg would be plenty enough. For the amp I would recommend 4awg. That is what the manual for the JL recommends. I did not do the big 3, but I am big proponent of a capacitor. I know many will disagree but to each is own. There is absolutely no lights dimming and just for stupidity when playing around with the settings I set up the gains to max on LC2i and amp and the remote bass boost. It was just stupid amounts of bass I actually could not stand it and yet no lights dimming. My amp is also 750w @ 4 ohms so I would not worry about it. Here is a crappy pic of my setup:

Worm

Hey thanks for the reply I love your box I see you got that custom box did you get it from eBay? That is the box I will buy eventually when I get the money right now I just got a simple $30 box from Sonic Electronix. I like your setup though and I actually am using 18 gauge on the LC2i as it is rated at 300v I have a 1amp inline fuse and everything is getting put in this week. I am going to make vids and post the install. Thanks for the pics.

gyang401

question...when running the LC2i...where did you end up tapping for the speaker inputs..?

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

^^^ Most likely the line to the sub. That's what I used for mine. It works nice too b/c it allows you to adjust the level just like the OEM sub.

cltgt

Getting ready to do mine now. bought the same LOC with level control kit. First layer of fiberglass is in...