mossman77

I just wanted to share some good news regarding bypassing the factory amplifier. When I originally installed a system in my 2011 TL (non-NAV), I tapped off the factory amplifier output to acquire the audio signals for my aftermarket amplifier. I used an Audio Control LOC to interface between the factory amp and aftermarket amp. Everything worked fine, but I had a lot of white noise out of my speakers. I gain matched everything and the noise was still there. After a couple hours of troubleshooting, I narrowed the issue down to either my factory head unit or my factory amp. Against the advice of some (who said the levels wouldn't be high enough), I decided to go ahead and try bypassing the factory amp and instead tapping into the low-level inputs to drive my aftermarket amp. Guess what, no more noise! And the volume is plenty loud enough. If anyone has been hesitant to do so, fear no more. Message me for wiring details if you're interested in how I did it. Oh, I also found a good spot to tap into for accessory power for the aftermarket amplifier remote wire. Kind of a pain to get to, but doable. Keep in mind, this is a 2011 non-NAV TL. I'm can't guarantee it will work on the NAV models.

carbonTSEX

What kind of white noise were you getting?

The issue I am having is random bass tones right after start up. I read in the RDX forum it could be due to the ANC module so I unplugged it but the issue was still there. I would assume bypassing the factory amp would help with this. I am definitely interested in how your wired your aftermarket amp up. My RDX has the ESL system. I plan do install my other setup in my TL soon and want to avoid the same issue. Seems like a common problem as I've heard it on the ZDX as well.

mossman77

I don't know anything about random bass tones or the ANC module, so I can't comment. I also had the ELS system, which sounded like doo-doo. The amp is accessible from inside the trunk, and it's very easy to bypass if you have the wiring diagram. Word of advice, make sure you are using a processor or an amplifier with balanced differential inputs. Otherwise you will get static and alternator whine.

samps86

I see this post is a bit old,but im getting ready to install a new stereo system in my 2010 TL-SH.It does have navi.Crutchfield told me i will have to bypass the factory amp.I have been trying to find detailed wiring instructions on this.I do have the mechanics book on my car volumes 1&2 and have been reading through the audio schematics.I found a few things on youtube that said the easiest way to do it is just find the pos and neg wires for each speaker that come from the head unit into the factory amp and the wires leaving the amp to the speakers and just wire them together.Seems like shady bussiness so idk.Im upgrading the stock head unit and doing away with the factory sub and adding an aftermarket sub and amp.Any help would be great!

wgreen_17

Just taking a chance your still a member, where was your factory amp located at on the vehicle. I'm having an issue on mine and need to pull the ampl

jtech316

factory amp is on the side of trunk on the passenger side. Take out the carpet and it’s attached to the back of some rails

wgreen_17

Thank you so much! You just saved me a ton of time and pulling stuff apart for no reason. LOL, I've posted this question in several forums and this is the first response I've received so thank you very much. Just to be clear. That is where it's mounted for a 2012 G4 correct?

jtech316

haha no problem man. Yes, I have a 2012 as well and taken it out before too