rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

You'll probably need to go higher than 600 to get the mirror back...maybe even go buy that MOTHER'S rim ball that Chip Foose is always advertising to finish it off. My guess will be 600 to 1500 to 2500 to final polish and seal.


LOTS OF WORK AHEAD OF YOU, BUDDY.
Why not just prep them and have them powdercoated a cool color?

Predatorbird

+1 600 won't give you a mirror finish. You will need to spend most your time on the lower grits and it will get easier the higher you go. After 600, I'd do 1000, 1500, 2000, and maybe 2500-3000 if it's not yet to your liking.

sbstnce

I pulled the trigger! I just picked these up from a friend who used em for two weeks and decided to sell his tl-s. got them with his ingalls camber kit as well. this thread was the deciding factor so thank you OP. now to install these or take em to a professional. how long should i let them sit at the height i want before i get an alignment. also. if i decide to install spacers will they ruin the alignment. sorry for the noob questions. any help is appreciated! thanks again!

Nichio

I just had my alignment done yesterday after 2 years of having 20mm spacers for flush mount of my type s wheels....my alignment was RECTIFIED ...my Toe was all off. Funny thing is after talking with my alignment guy, the number one issue with tire wear is toe, and if you have a fantastic alignment guy, a camber kit would be damn near pointless (IMO).

I can find a little more to do with $170, like paying for lifetime alignment at Firestone for as long as I own the car for $195... makes more sense due to the roads I live on and theres no limit to the amount of times they'll check. Necessary for those with drops, stretches and pokes.

For the prices we pay for rubber on these, its worth its weight in gold as far as im concerned.

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

Correct^ If I could go back I would go to a Firestone to have unlimited alignments..toe will kill your tires!...murdered mines in less than two months...I highly suggest you align it right away after you choose the height you want....spacers will change your alignment also...

The more you drive the faster they wear if not aligned

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

A spacer (small one) shouldn't affect the steering geometry...Hmmm...
I like the upper camber kits to give that truly flush look where you bring top of tire back out to the fender. Camber won't kill your tires like toe, but at the end of the life of the tire, camber being out will be obvious.

4DRNSX

Just installed my Street Advanced Coilovers today. I set them at the most stiff damper setting because I want that street feel. Do they get more stiff as I go along? I don't want them to be too stiff. I also have the Progress rear sway bar that I'm going to set at max stiffness as well.

4DRNSX

How long does it take for the height to settle?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think you're pretty safe with a week or two...
I don't think they get more firm as time goes on...

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

Springs might settle a little after 1month of driving you will notice the difference as for the dampening set as stiff will always stay the same....

Friend of mine has them set at full stiff and he loves it..

4DRNSX

Thanks guys. Yea these Michelin tires are so soft...I want to go for that race car feel but I love the way these tires look What do you guys think about setting the Progress RSB on firm on top of the firmest setting on the Tein's on my Type S?

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you're in for a back breaking ride.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It's manageable...but it's hard to counter such a soft tire...but trust me, once you get that harsh ride you're looking for, you'll wish you had them nice tires back.

styles109

iTrader: (4)

wait what car is that? we dont have to drill any holes for the TEIN SA right?

I just ordered the Steet Advance...

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

That is the strut tower bar on the 3g TL.

You don't have to drill holes.

but if you want to be able to access the knobs to adjust the dampening often, you'll want to.

Even then you don't have to but drilling holes makes it a lot easier and faster. If you don't you;ll have to remove the strut bar each time you want to adjust. Not a huge deal either. The holes aren't even visible under engine covers so it wouldn't bother me.


I had mine drilled.


Edit: Still love my Tein SA's. had the rear set to 11 from stiff and front to 10 from stiff. Front was a little too bouncy, so I adjusted it a little firmer, now I'm at 6 from stiff. I'll probably adjust it again and make it 8 from stiff cause now its a little TOO stiff. The back hasn't been adjusted since the install over a month ago.

Perfectionist. ah.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I have mine set to almost full soft and even maxed out, 3 years later, I STILL couldn't be happier.

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

No drilling..you set them once and your done!

Davidsternmustdie

iTrader: (1)

I just got my SS advance street and need a edfc controller/motor kit.. what's the model number I need for this? I've looked around and can't seem to find what model number i need for either?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think the EDFC is generic for all Tein adjustable rebound coils...all it does is spin the knob up top.

If using EDFC though, you'll need an RV6 strut bar...oem bar won't fit over it.

Davidsternmustdie

iTrader: (1)

I thought I had to buy a certain model edfc and motor kit? Yeah I was aware of the strut bar..the fees keep adding up. Like reading a cell phone bill.

lleron

iTrader: (1)

There are actually a few different models (some more expensive than others for reasons I've never figured out). I believe tein's website has a list of compatible coilovers/EDFCs.

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

UnLess you track and daily drive your car, I see no use for it.....once you set them,most people never touch them again including myself

styles109

iTrader: (4)

Just installed my TEIN SA today. Very happy with this set up. Still need to play with the dampers to get it right for me.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'd HIGHLY recommend driving around for a week with no front upper sway bar or rear seats...a little stiffer, a little softer...BAM, PERFECT. Then seal it all up and call it a day.

Thanks for the info btw...didn't know there were different EDFC models.

styles109

iTrader: (4)

yeah i have the fronts at 14 and rears at 10. took it to the canyons last night and it felt great! just had tire screeching though. need new rims and tires now

Deerole

For everyone who has these...what setting do you have them on? i think im runnin 12 front n 10 rear

Tedward

I am SO tempted to get a set of these... Really thought I might have the RV6 installed by now but we're still waiting on that end. Strongly thinkin about this being my next project. Any reason from anyone it shouldn't be (minus the $... only thing stopping me )

I don't want to go all the way down (yes, i have read this entire thread end to end and I know it will get to me...), I like the ride of the stock, but could be a little bit stiffer. Seems like a good fit. decisions decisions...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

...I'm something similar to that.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

How long do these coil overs typically last before you have to rebuild them? Trying to decide between h&r sport springs and then getting new shocks in 30k miles (currently at 55k), or just go coilovers now. Leaning towards much cheaper springs since I will only lower less than 1.5 "

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

They last a very long time,guys gave gone upto 70k miles!

In my opinion, do it right and only once, your throwing your money away by using springs with stock shocks then paying again to replace the shocks....it's actually better just to do the coilovers in the end...
I started with a set of springs and sport shocks and was ok with it but never happy...

I said the same thing about only dropping -1.5 and now I'm almost twice that!.....with springs the way it settles that's the way it's going to stay!

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the review eat....glad to hear they will last too. That was another reason I wanted these and not a cheaper option.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

TEIN coilovers will last generally from 60-90k before needing a rebuild. I would venture to say they are one, if not, of the best quality coilovers on the market. And they are reasonably priced. If you're looking for an entry level coilover I'd recommend the TEIN Street Basis.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-512847.aspx

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

^^^Thanks, good info here.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info, very helpful!
When tein SA advertises F/R as 1.7, I'm assuming that is the ideal lowering height. Is there any downside to lowering less, such as 1.5? Or are springs the way to go if I don't plan on changing height once set?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Correct, that is what they recommend. You can basically go from 1-3" on this setup so any height in that range is fine.

emilio320

hmm so 60k-90-k miles means ill probably need to rebuild mine around 90k-130k miles on my car.. Anybody know how much it costs to have them rebuilt by tein? Its a good thing i haven't sold my stock Type-S suspension yet, that way i can throw them on while i get the Teins rebuilt (whenever that happens)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

it depends on conditions, how low you are, how hard you are on them...lots of factors. And as with anything mass produced, there will be some anomalies that last much longer than others...



Ride em till they're dead, then figure out if you want new ones or rebuild. I think it's close to $400 for rebuilds. could be wrong though.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Probably a stupid question but how do you know when they are dead? Noise, visual, bouncing?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

See this link:

http://www.tein.com/service/index.html

Suspension get bouncy and soft. The dampers may eventually start to leak.