Horrible wear and cupping inside of tires.
#1
I Like turtles
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Horrible wear and cupping inside of tires.
Noticed this yesterday so had Firestone check out the alignment and it all looked good. Front toe was dead on and front camber was -1.8 which isnt a huge amount. Both front tires had a stupid amount of cupping and horrible wear and I was told it was probably a suspension issie since the alignment was still good. Ill have some pics of the tires in a few as im swapping them out now but what areas can I start looking at to fix this since the alignment is spot on.
#4
Noticed this yesterday so had Firestone check out the alignment and it all looked good. Front toe was dead on and front camber was -1.8 which isnt a huge amount. Both front tires had a stupid amount of cupping and horrible wear and I was told it was probably a suspension issie since the alignment was still good. Ill have some pics of the tires in a few as im swapping them out now but what areas can I start looking at to fix this since the alignment is spot on.
I have the same issue and first place said it the shocks, 2nd place said everything look good and can't figure why. Tomorrow im taking it to a 3rd place before I purchase coilover if its shocks.
#6
Shocks would explain it or some other worn parts. Hopefully this 3rd place would find out. Tired of buying tires, my current tires look almost brand new in tread wear except the inner part.
Sorry about your car Glad you have another TL
Noticed you have H&R Springs and Koni shocks, how you like the combo? That was one of my option if I needed replacement shocks, the other was going with Tein SA coilover or ISC coilover.
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#8
Race Director
Two words:
Rear toe.
Rear toe.
#9
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GeeteeDan (06-08-2014)
#10
Suzuka Master
OP Firestone said the front toe was dead on .. was that total toe or individual toe? Did you get a print out.
I was told one time my toe was on .. when in fact it was averaged ...
I was told one time my toe was on .. when in fact it was averaged ...
#11
Just back from the 3rd place, it look like my issue is the shocks are worn and my front toe off a bit. I believe my shock probably needed replacing when I had my 3rd set of tires. Now..what to get Tein SA, ISC N1 or Koni and H&R springs....ahhh and need a new set of tires. $$$$$$$
#12
Race Director
worn shocks won't cause tire wear. we need to see the full alignment spec sheet that they should have printed out for you...
#13
Thanks for taking a look.
GeeTee Dan - Didn't mean to hijack your tread. Thought we might have a common solution.
#14
Team Owner
Yeah, the shock thing is mostly a myth that won't die. It's possible in extreme cases but it's very, very unlikely.
I finally did my own alignment. I destroyed a set of tires in 2,000 miles and only noticed by accident. The tires still looked almost new and one day I parked with my wheels turned all the way and noticed the inside inch or so was showing the threads while the rest of the tire was new. I had the car aligned when I got the tires. I did the toe myself with a tape measure and have not had any issues since. 99% of alignment shops absolutely suck.
I used to have an awesome shop that mostly did race cars and they had a 2 month or longer backlog. They were the only ones that could get it right but they're gone now. I don't know where some of these places get the print outs but sometimes they don't mean crap.
One way to see if it's toe is to use an infrared temperature gun on the tire after at least a 5 minute drive or longer. Shoot the inside part that's wearing and shoot the middle and outside. The inside will be considerably warmer than the outside. Make sure to shoot temps right after a drive before rim and brake temps can have an influence.
I finally did my own alignment. I destroyed a set of tires in 2,000 miles and only noticed by accident. The tires still looked almost new and one day I parked with my wheels turned all the way and noticed the inside inch or so was showing the threads while the rest of the tire was new. I had the car aligned when I got the tires. I did the toe myself with a tape measure and have not had any issues since. 99% of alignment shops absolutely suck.
I used to have an awesome shop that mostly did race cars and they had a 2 month or longer backlog. They were the only ones that could get it right but they're gone now. I don't know where some of these places get the print outs but sometimes they don't mean crap.
One way to see if it's toe is to use an infrared temperature gun on the tire after at least a 5 minute drive or longer. Shoot the inside part that's wearing and shoot the middle and outside. The inside will be considerably warmer than the outside. Make sure to shoot temps right after a drive before rim and brake temps can have an influence.
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rockyfeller (06-12-2014)
#15
Team Owner
I forgot, they should set toe to zero, no exceptions. No averaging. Have them do it over and over till it's at 0. On the third time one time, they gave me a printout of toe at zero and didn't think I would notice that it was for a Civic. "Good enough" is the alignment shop's motto. Our cars are sensitive to alignment. Part of what makes our suspension so good for performance also makes it sensitive to alignment but with the right alignment you can get the best of all worlds.
#16
Race Director
I don't know what's going on with the bottom sheet as it doesn't even appear to list the correct specs for toe...
You just need to find someone who knows how to do an alignment and who can get toe for all 4 corners within spec, ideally as close to 0 as possible.
#17
I forgot, they should set toe to zero, no exceptions. No averaging. Have them do it over and over till it's at 0. On the third time one time, they gave me a printout of toe at zero and didn't think I would notice that it was for a Civic. "Good enough" is the alignment shop's motto. Our cars are sensitive to alignment. Part of what makes our suspension so good for performance also makes it sensitive to alignment but with the right alignment you can get the best of all worlds.
Thanks again.
#18
Drifting
On a completely different car, we had similar wear patterns that took quite some time to figure out. Ended up being a combination of a bad front tie-rod end along with a bad rear strut. We rotated the tires every 3-5k mile and could never narrow down if the funky wear was coming from the front or back. It appears it was a bit of both. We finally replaced the rear strut, put new tires on, and the odd wear issues went away.
#19
On a completely different car, we had similar wear patterns that took quite some time to figure out. Ended up being a combination of a bad front tie-rod end along with a bad rear strut. We rotated the tires every 3-5k mile and could never narrow down if the funky wear was coming from the front or back. It appears it was a bit of both. We finally replaced the rear strut, put new tires on, and the odd wear issues went away.
Probably going to get a set of A-Spec suspension and try a different set of tires like the new hankook ventus s1 noble2 tires.
#20
I Like turtles
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I still haven't checked the tie rods as ive been really busy and the car has sat for a little while. I have coilovers with only about 15k miles on them so I dont see them being the problem. Ill see if I can find the alignment sheet but front toe was 0 and front camber was -1.8
Rear tires are fine
Rear tires are fine
#21
10th Gear
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Shocks and struts do play a role in tire wear! "Average" life of a strut/shock is 50k. It also depends on the brand/type of tire. I've seen different types of tires chop more/less on the same car. Im a tech and do alingments all day, which are also very important. I recommend no matter where you go if they offer a lifetime alignment, buy it. Most places will give you a break on price too if its a slow day.
#22
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Almost forgot, if you want to check your front end just jack up the front and shake wheel on car side to side for tie rods. Top and bottom for wheel bearings and ball joints. Can also pry up between mounting surfaces of ball joints with small pry bar if you have one. Hope that helps.
#23
King of NYC
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One way to see if it's toe is to use an infrared temperature gun on the tire after at least a 5 minute drive or longer. Shoot the inside part that's wearing and shoot the middle and outside. The inside will be considerably warmer than the outside. Make sure to shoot temps right after a drive before rim and brake temps can have an influence.
#24
King of NYC
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I get cupping too. I thought it just comes with the territory of lowering your car. The way I get around it is to keep on top of rotations.
What's been said is true, it is TOE that is the tire killer, not camber as much by itself. If you go to a tire shop and they say it is your shocks, don't trust that. They are trained to say that blindly to sell you new shocks. They have to really prove why they are saying that. Cupping can happen with bad shocks if you car at OEM height. If your car is lowered it is probably more like tie-rods as someone else has stated. My tie-rods are fine, though I still get cupping and feathering.
What's been said is true, it is TOE that is the tire killer, not camber as much by itself. If you go to a tire shop and they say it is your shocks, don't trust that. They are trained to say that blindly to sell you new shocks. They have to really prove why they are saying that. Cupping can happen with bad shocks if you car at OEM height. If your car is lowered it is probably more like tie-rods as someone else has stated. My tie-rods are fine, though I still get cupping and feathering.
#25
King of NYC
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btw if you can't fix your inner wear issue at all, at least switch to a harder compound (lower speed rated) tire. It makes all the difference. I had soft tires that got EATEN up so bad and quick I had black rubber powder forming on the back bumper! (I have an old thread about it.) With my present tires the wear is still there on the inner side but WAY way less. I use those tires for winter and they have gone 4 seasons now and can go 1 more.
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cokorote (06-13-2014)
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