H&R front sway bar '04-'08 Acura TL 28mm 70104
01-05-2010, 05:23 PM
#3
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why would you want to put a tighter front sway bar on a nose heavy car ???
01-05-2010, 05:59 PM
#6
Yes i have this on my 04 tl. It was a pain to install, but it helped a lot, after installing the ron jon 19 the car drove like shit on the highway, i upgraded the front and rear sway bars, dropped the car and now the car drives much better, it handles like a dream.
The install of the rear is simple and fast, however the front requires you to drop the cradle of the vehicle to access the bolts holding the sway bar in. In my case it was well worth it since i had a lot of sway on the highway.. Im happy with it.
The install of the rear is simple and fast, however the front requires you to drop the cradle of the vehicle to access the bolts holding the sway bar in. In my case it was well worth it since i had a lot of sway on the highway.. Im happy with it.
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01-05-2010, 08:13 PM
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no offense....its ur money....
but do u know why u need this ??? and what does the sway bar do ???
now before you gimme an answer and compare it with the G's or the BMW's or Z's....all those cars are REAR WHEEL DRIVE....the TL has all the weight upfront....the rear would fishtail and by upgrading the rear sway bar u eliminated that....so the rear keeps up with the front....
by upgrading the front sway bar you will cancel out what u got from the rear sway bar....you would be better off taking ur rear sway bar off and replacing it with the stock one !!!!
but do u know why u need this ??? and what does the sway bar do ???
now before you gimme an answer and compare it with the G's or the BMW's or Z's....all those cars are REAR WHEEL DRIVE....the TL has all the weight upfront....the rear would fishtail and by upgrading the rear sway bar u eliminated that....so the rear keeps up with the front....
by upgrading the front sway bar you will cancel out what u got from the rear sway bar....you would be better off taking ur rear sway bar off and replacing it with the stock one !!!!
01-05-2010, 08:23 PM
#10
no offense....its ur money....
but do u know why u need this ??? and what does the sway bar do ???
now before you gimme an answer and compare it with the G's or the BMW's or Z's....all those cars are REAR WHEEL DRIVE....the TL has all the weight upfront....the rear would fishtail and by upgrading the rear sway bar u eliminated that....so the rear keeps up with the front....
by upgrading the front sway bar you will cancel out what u got from the rear sway bar....you would be better off taking ur rear sway bar off and replacing it with the stock one !!!!
but do u know why u need this ??? and what does the sway bar do ???
now before you gimme an answer and compare it with the G's or the BMW's or Z's....all those cars are REAR WHEEL DRIVE....the TL has all the weight upfront....the rear would fishtail and by upgrading the rear sway bar u eliminated that....so the rear keeps up with the front....
by upgrading the front sway bar you will cancel out what u got from the rear sway bar....you would be better off taking ur rear sway bar off and replacing it with the stock one !!!!
i posted it up to find out info... now since i have wat i needed i dont need this on my TL
01-05-2010, 09:46 PM
#11
no offense....its ur money....
But do u know why u need this ??? And what does the sway bar do ???
Now before you gimme an answer and compare it with the g's or the bmw's or z's....all those cars are rear wheel drive....the tl has all the weight upfront....the rear would fishtail and by upgrading the rear sway bar u eliminated that....so the rear keeps up with the front....
By upgrading the front sway bar you will cancel out what u got from the rear sway bar....you would be better off taking ur rear sway bar off and replacing it with the stock one !!!!
But do u know why u need this ??? And what does the sway bar do ???
Now before you gimme an answer and compare it with the g's or the bmw's or z's....all those cars are rear wheel drive....the tl has all the weight upfront....the rear would fishtail and by upgrading the rear sway bar u eliminated that....so the rear keeps up with the front....
By upgrading the front sway bar you will cancel out what u got from the rear sway bar....you would be better off taking ur rear sway bar off and replacing it with the stock one !!!!
not true at all. Sorry you are dead wrong.
i first upgraded my rear sway bar and it made it worst. Once i upgraded the front the problem was solved.
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01-05-2010, 10:18 PM
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solved what !!!! ???? made what worse....
dude do u know the difference between a sway bar and a strut bar ??? enlighten me !!!!
dude do u know the difference between a sway bar and a strut bar ??? enlighten me !!!!
01-05-2010, 10:26 PM
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What Do Sway Bars (Anti-Roll Bars) Do?
When you increase roll stiffness, which is what aftermarket sway bars do, you are reducing the amount of body roll for the same amount of cornering force. This does 3 significant things with respect to cornering. They are:
1. Increases weight on outside tires - decreases weight on inside tires
2. Reduces amount of body roll which reduces camber loss due to body roll
3. Affects front to rear weigth distribution
Effect 1) is not a good thing for handling. The coefficient of friction for your tires decreases as more weight is applied. Read that twice to make sure you got it. If your car weighs 2000 lbs and 1000 is in front and 1000 in back (500 each corner), your cf might be .8 for illustration purposes. Your total grip in front is 500 * .8 + 500 * .8 which is 800. As you go into a turn, some of the weight in front transfers to the side so you may have 600 on one front corner and 400 on the other. However, at 600lbs, the cf may be only .7 and at 400, the cf may increase to .85. (Each tire has different values here.) Your total grip now is 600 * .7 + 400 * .85 which is 760. This is a decrease in total front grip. When you add stiffer sway bars, you increase the weight transfer to the outside which further decreases the cf for that outer tire and, therefore, for that end of the car.
Effect 2) is usually the primary reason for sway bars. When the body of the car rolls over, it takes the suspension with it. This causes the tires to ride on the outside edge of the tire and not get a flat contact patch. NSXs are very good in this area, but can still be improved (I suppose).
Effect 3) is neither a positive or negative absolutely. It depends on your car. If your car understeers, it may be due to effect 1) on your front suspension. Too much weight is transferred to the front outside tire which reduces its cf and may be causing it to break loose from grip. A way to prevent this is to increase roll resistance in the rear with a stiffer rear sway bar. The stiffer rear sway bar would resist body roll and apply more force to the outside rear tire instead of applying so much to the outside front tire. Obviously, you can go too far (too stiff in rear) which would transfer too much weight to the rear outside tire and cause it to decrease cf too much and eventually break loose.
Sway bars are a car set up thing. More isn't always better and often more is worse. Adjustable sway bars are a big win, too, because you can play with the front to rear roll resistance and find out what is better for your car.
When you increase roll stiffness, which is what aftermarket sway bars do, you are reducing the amount of body roll for the same amount of cornering force. This does 3 significant things with respect to cornering. They are:
1. Increases weight on outside tires - decreases weight on inside tires
2. Reduces amount of body roll which reduces camber loss due to body roll
3. Affects front to rear weigth distribution
Effect 1) is not a good thing for handling. The coefficient of friction for your tires decreases as more weight is applied. Read that twice to make sure you got it. If your car weighs 2000 lbs and 1000 is in front and 1000 in back (500 each corner), your cf might be .8 for illustration purposes. Your total grip in front is 500 * .8 + 500 * .8 which is 800. As you go into a turn, some of the weight in front transfers to the side so you may have 600 on one front corner and 400 on the other. However, at 600lbs, the cf may be only .7 and at 400, the cf may increase to .85. (Each tire has different values here.) Your total grip now is 600 * .7 + 400 * .85 which is 760. This is a decrease in total front grip. When you add stiffer sway bars, you increase the weight transfer to the outside which further decreases the cf for that outer tire and, therefore, for that end of the car.
Effect 2) is usually the primary reason for sway bars. When the body of the car rolls over, it takes the suspension with it. This causes the tires to ride on the outside edge of the tire and not get a flat contact patch. NSXs are very good in this area, but can still be improved (I suppose).
Effect 3) is neither a positive or negative absolutely. It depends on your car. If your car understeers, it may be due to effect 1) on your front suspension. Too much weight is transferred to the front outside tire which reduces its cf and may be causing it to break loose from grip. A way to prevent this is to increase roll resistance in the rear with a stiffer rear sway bar. The stiffer rear sway bar would resist body roll and apply more force to the outside rear tire instead of applying so much to the outside front tire. Obviously, you can go too far (too stiff in rear) which would transfer too much weight to the rear outside tire and cause it to decrease cf too much and eventually break loose.
Sway bars are a car set up thing. More isn't always better and often more is worse. Adjustable sway bars are a big win, too, because you can play with the front to rear roll resistance and find out what is better for your car.
01-05-2010, 10:36 PM
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here fixed it for ya !!!! 
classic example from another forum, cudnt have said it better !!!
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-s...tml#post493200
classic example from another forum, cudnt have said it better !!!
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-s...tml#post493200
01-06-2010, 12:14 PM
#17
OP, just get the TL-S sway bar and install it! It is SOLID compared to the base models "hollow" bar. I will be doing the swap this weekend.
I believe "I HATE CARS" has this same bar on his TL and i believe hw had a thread about it. anyway, he did comment on the effects of the H&R bar and said that it may have been a little overkill hence he suggested folks to get the TL-S front sway bar. my $.02.
I believe "I HATE CARS" has this same bar on his TL and i believe hw had a thread about it. anyway, he did comment on the effects of the H&R bar and said that it may have been a little overkill hence he suggested folks to get the TL-S front sway bar. my $.02.
01-06-2010, 12:56 PM
#18
Team Owner
I'm running it. Awesome quality and bushings. Really helped the handling since mine was already prone to oversteer with the a-spec suspension and 24mm rear bar.
It's stiffer than the numbers would indicate, might be the type of metal used.
I had to install stiffer rear springs to balance it back out, it had too much understeer at first even with the Progress bar in stiff.
H&R makes a front and rear kit that should be balanced already. I highly suggest it.
Otherwise you're best off getting the Type-S bar along with the Progress rear bar.
The H&R bar is no doubt stiffer than the Type S but if you want balanced handling you have to play around with it a little (unless you buy the set).
There is practically no body roll. The H&R front make much more of a difference in roll than the Progress rear did.
Keep in mind that too stiff has it's disadvantages and a little bodyroll on the TL is not the end of the world since it goes into negative camber.
It's stiffer than the numbers would indicate, might be the type of metal used.
I had to install stiffer rear springs to balance it back out, it had too much understeer at first even with the Progress bar in stiff.
H&R makes a front and rear kit that should be balanced already. I highly suggest it.
Otherwise you're best off getting the Type-S bar along with the Progress rear bar.
The H&R bar is no doubt stiffer than the Type S but if you want balanced handling you have to play around with it a little (unless you buy the set).
There is practically no body roll. The H&R front make much more of a difference in roll than the Progress rear did.
Keep in mind that too stiff has it's disadvantages and a little bodyroll on the TL is not the end of the world since it goes into negative camber.
01-06-2010, 08:13 PM
#19
Team Owner
Now that I have a little more time.... Everyone is partially right.
The big factor everyone is leaving out is the coil spring rate.
The swaybar is a torsional spring connecting the left and right suspension together. The more the body leans the more the bar resists the lean by pulling up on the inside tire. Not a good thing if you have soft stock springs with lots of travel. The proper way to set up a car is to run stiff springs and fine tune the balance with the swaybars. Many exotic cars use swaybars no stiffer than the TL's stock bars.
A simple fact, using the swaybars to reduce bodyroll is a compromise. It lets you reduce roll without hurting the ride quality too much in comparison to springs. The negative is you lose the independence of the independent suspension as the left and right are now linked together by a spring.
The stiffer the coil springs, the more swaybar you can get away with without as pronounced negative effects. You already have less travel and the springs are taking some of the load away from the bars. With the outside springs taking some of the load off of the swaybar around a corner, it's not trying as hard to lift the inside tire.
I chose to go slightly stiffer on the springs and quite a bit stiffer on the swaybars since my car is a daily driver and it works very well. However, there's no doubt stiffer springs (stiffer than the common aftermarket offerings for the TL) and TL-S size swaybars would've been a better answer for a track car.
For those that say adding a front bar cancels out the rear, not true. The car will still corner flatter and take a set quicker. The balance will change drastically. Mine oversteered a bit at the limit with the a-spec springs, Koni Yellows on the low setting in the front, and the Progress bar on soft. With the addition of the H&R bar I ended up going from a little tail happy back to the stock-like push.....but there was practically no bodyroll. I first put the rear bar in the firm position which helped. If I had to guess it had less understeer than stock but still too much for me. I ended up stiffening up the rear springs a little at a time with spacers until I came up with a rate that brought back the balance. I now have a custom set of rear springs so I don't have to run the spacers.
For those of you doubting the effectiveness of larger front and rear swaybars combined, the high speed handling is amazing. Low speed is improved but freeway on ramps taken at 90mph will amaze you. The car never felt quite as stable as I wanted even with a-spec, Konis, and the Progress rear bar. With the big front bar plus custom rear springs, it's rock steady at 130mph (on a track of course). I've actually pushed the limits hard at those speeds and it's as solid as a stock TL at 50mph.
If I had it to do over again, likely I would've gone with a Type-S front and Progress rear. That should provide a huge increase over the tiny 25mm hollow 5at bar and have good balance right out of the box. I don't regret what I did but it was a lot of work and a lot of testing at the limit. Lots of trial and error on the spring rates.
And to clarify when I'm talking balance and too much understeer with the Progress rear and H&R front, it still handles better than stock and you would never know the car would understeer if you didn't take it to the absolute limit. It has a completely different and better feel especially at high speeds. It's just the TL-S bar is dirt cheap and would probably give better balance out of the box.
The big factor everyone is leaving out is the coil spring rate.
The swaybar is a torsional spring connecting the left and right suspension together. The more the body leans the more the bar resists the lean by pulling up on the inside tire. Not a good thing if you have soft stock springs with lots of travel. The proper way to set up a car is to run stiff springs and fine tune the balance with the swaybars. Many exotic cars use swaybars no stiffer than the TL's stock bars.
A simple fact, using the swaybars to reduce bodyroll is a compromise. It lets you reduce roll without hurting the ride quality too much in comparison to springs. The negative is you lose the independence of the independent suspension as the left and right are now linked together by a spring.
The stiffer the coil springs, the more swaybar you can get away with without as pronounced negative effects. You already have less travel and the springs are taking some of the load away from the bars. With the outside springs taking some of the load off of the swaybar around a corner, it's not trying as hard to lift the inside tire.
I chose to go slightly stiffer on the springs and quite a bit stiffer on the swaybars since my car is a daily driver and it works very well. However, there's no doubt stiffer springs (stiffer than the common aftermarket offerings for the TL) and TL-S size swaybars would've been a better answer for a track car.
For those that say adding a front bar cancels out the rear, not true. The car will still corner flatter and take a set quicker. The balance will change drastically. Mine oversteered a bit at the limit with the a-spec springs, Koni Yellows on the low setting in the front, and the Progress bar on soft. With the addition of the H&R bar I ended up going from a little tail happy back to the stock-like push.....but there was practically no bodyroll. I first put the rear bar in the firm position which helped. If I had to guess it had less understeer than stock but still too much for me. I ended up stiffening up the rear springs a little at a time with spacers until I came up with a rate that brought back the balance. I now have a custom set of rear springs so I don't have to run the spacers.
For those of you doubting the effectiveness of larger front and rear swaybars combined, the high speed handling is amazing. Low speed is improved but freeway on ramps taken at 90mph will amaze you. The car never felt quite as stable as I wanted even with a-spec, Konis, and the Progress rear bar. With the big front bar plus custom rear springs, it's rock steady at 130mph (on a track of course). I've actually pushed the limits hard at those speeds and it's as solid as a stock TL at 50mph.
If I had it to do over again, likely I would've gone with a Type-S front and Progress rear. That should provide a huge increase over the tiny 25mm hollow 5at bar and have good balance right out of the box. I don't regret what I did but it was a lot of work and a lot of testing at the limit. Lots of trial and error on the spring rates.
And to clarify when I'm talking balance and too much understeer with the Progress rear and H&R front, it still handles better than stock and you would never know the car would understeer if you didn't take it to the absolute limit. It has a completely different and better feel especially at high speeds. It's just the TL-S bar is dirt cheap and would probably give better balance out of the box.
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01-10-2010, 10:29 PM
#21
they are adjustable. That is why i bought them. I don't have time to write as much as you did, but i will tell you this, i have them on my car i know what the car drove like before and after, you cannot try to tell me it did not fix my sway problem. Keep reading stuff on the internet, did you know they found bigfoot?? And i read that on the internet as well. But for me it is a reality i have the sway bars on my car and it fixed the problem. Thank you
12-23-2010, 04:05 PM
#23
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yes it does
12-28-2010, 11:01 AM
#24
Instructor
Now that I have a little more time.... Everyone is partially right.
The big factor everyone is leaving out is the coil spring rate.
The swaybar is a torsional spring connecting the left and right suspension together. The more the body leans the more the bar resists the lean by pulling up on the inside tire. Not a good thing if you have soft stock springs with lots of travel. The proper way to set up a car is to run stiff springs and fine tune the balance with the swaybars. Many exotic cars use swaybars no stiffer than the TL's stock bars.
A simple fact, using the swaybars to reduce bodyroll is a compromise. It lets you reduce roll without hurting the ride quality too much in comparison to springs. The negative is you lose the independence of the independent suspension as the left and right are now linked together by a spring.
The stiffer the coil springs, the more swaybar you can get away with without as pronounced negative effects. You already have less travel and the springs are taking some of the load away from the bars. With the outside springs taking some of the load off of the swaybar around a corner, it's not trying as hard to lift the inside tire.
I chose to go slightly stiffer on the springs and quite a bit stiffer on the swaybars since my car is a daily driver and it works very well. However, there's no doubt stiffer springs (stiffer than the common aftermarket offerings for the TL) and TL-S size swaybars would've been a better answer for a track car.
For those that say adding a front bar cancels out the rear, not true. The car will still corner flatter and take a set quicker. The balance will change drastically. Mine oversteered a bit at the limit with the a-spec springs, Koni Yellows on the low setting in the front, and the Progress bar on soft. With the addition of the H&R bar I ended up going from a little tail happy back to the stock-like push.....but there was practically no bodyroll. I first put the rear bar in the firm position which helped. If I had to guess it had less understeer than stock but still too much for me. I ended up stiffening up the rear springs a little at a time with spacers until I came up with a rate that brought back the balance. I now have a custom set of rear springs so I don't have to run the spacers.
For those of you doubting the effectiveness of larger front and rear swaybars combined, the high speed handling is amazing. Low speed is improved but freeway on ramps taken at 90mph will amaze you. The car never felt quite as stable as I wanted even with a-spec, Konis, and the Progress rear bar. With the big front bar plus custom rear springs, it's rock steady at 130mph (on a track of course). I've actually pushed the limits hard at those speeds and it's as solid as a stock TL at 50mph.
If I had it to do over again, likely I would've gone with a Type-S front and Progress rear. That should provide a huge increase over the tiny 25mm hollow 5at bar and have good balance right out of the box. I don't regret what I did but it was a lot of work and a lot of testing at the limit. Lots of trial and error on the spring rates.
And to clarify when I'm talking balance and too much understeer with the Progress rear and H&R front, it still handles better than stock and you would never know the car would understeer if you didn't take it to the absolute limit. It has a completely different and better feel especially at high speeds. It's just the TL-S bar is dirt cheap and would probably give better balance out of the box.
The big factor everyone is leaving out is the coil spring rate.
The swaybar is a torsional spring connecting the left and right suspension together. The more the body leans the more the bar resists the lean by pulling up on the inside tire. Not a good thing if you have soft stock springs with lots of travel. The proper way to set up a car is to run stiff springs and fine tune the balance with the swaybars. Many exotic cars use swaybars no stiffer than the TL's stock bars.
A simple fact, using the swaybars to reduce bodyroll is a compromise. It lets you reduce roll without hurting the ride quality too much in comparison to springs. The negative is you lose the independence of the independent suspension as the left and right are now linked together by a spring.
The stiffer the coil springs, the more swaybar you can get away with without as pronounced negative effects. You already have less travel and the springs are taking some of the load away from the bars. With the outside springs taking some of the load off of the swaybar around a corner, it's not trying as hard to lift the inside tire.
I chose to go slightly stiffer on the springs and quite a bit stiffer on the swaybars since my car is a daily driver and it works very well. However, there's no doubt stiffer springs (stiffer than the common aftermarket offerings for the TL) and TL-S size swaybars would've been a better answer for a track car.
For those that say adding a front bar cancels out the rear, not true. The car will still corner flatter and take a set quicker. The balance will change drastically. Mine oversteered a bit at the limit with the a-spec springs, Koni Yellows on the low setting in the front, and the Progress bar on soft. With the addition of the H&R bar I ended up going from a little tail happy back to the stock-like push.....but there was practically no bodyroll. I first put the rear bar in the firm position which helped. If I had to guess it had less understeer than stock but still too much for me. I ended up stiffening up the rear springs a little at a time with spacers until I came up with a rate that brought back the balance. I now have a custom set of rear springs so I don't have to run the spacers.
For those of you doubting the effectiveness of larger front and rear swaybars combined, the high speed handling is amazing. Low speed is improved but freeway on ramps taken at 90mph will amaze you. The car never felt quite as stable as I wanted even with a-spec, Konis, and the Progress rear bar. With the big front bar plus custom rear springs, it's rock steady at 130mph (on a track of course). I've actually pushed the limits hard at those speeds and it's as solid as a stock TL at 50mph.
If I had it to do over again, likely I would've gone with a Type-S front and Progress rear. That should provide a huge increase over the tiny 25mm hollow 5at bar and have good balance right out of the box. I don't regret what I did but it was a lot of work and a lot of testing at the limit. Lots of trial and error on the spring rates.
And to clarify when I'm talking balance and too much understeer with the Progress rear and H&R front, it still handles better than stock and you would never know the car would understeer if you didn't take it to the absolute limit. It has a completely different and better feel especially at high speeds. It's just the TL-S bar is dirt cheap and would probably give better balance out of the box.
With all that said, seeing that I have an 08 TL Type-S you’re suggesting I keep my front swaybar "stock TL Type S" and replace the rear one?
Thanks in advanced!
12-28-2010, 12:43 PM
#25
Team Owner
That's what I would do. I'm sure you can get some gains from going with the H&R 28mm but with the amount of work involved in the front I would just stick with the stock one since the TL-S already has the thickest FSB of any TL.
It's worth it for the 5at to upgrade but the TL-S bar is pretty good already. The rear bar will give some nice gains without being tail happy in conjunction with the TL-S front bar.
It's worth it for the 5at to upgrade but the TL-S bar is pretty good already. The rear bar will give some nice gains without being tail happy in conjunction with the TL-S front bar.
12-28-2010, 12:49 PM
#26
Instructor
Thanks for the reply, I’ll leave the front alone than
Any recommendation for a rear swaybar replacement?
12-28-2010, 01:02 PM
#27
Team Owner
12-28-2010, 01:19 PM
#28
Instructor
12-28-2010, 01:22 PM
#29
Team Owner
Click on "vendors" in the upper right portion next to "log out". "MrHeeltoe" is in California and "Excelerate" has been very good to me.
12-28-2010, 08:28 PM
#30
Pro
I agree it would help the highway driving but it wount help on the track unless you have the Progress RSB and stiffer adjustable suspension. Personally I'd use the TypeS FSB...its much cheaper and I think Itll be perfect with my RSB and my next mod Ksport coils...
Edit: I didn't read the whole thread...Ihatecars already did his thing haha..my bad.
Edit: I didn't read the whole thread...Ihatecars already did his thing haha..my bad.
Last edited by AtlM5; 12-28-2010 at 08:41 PM.
12-28-2010, 09:49 PM
#31
Team Owner
Lol. It's all about balance. The car has too much front swaybar in stock form, that's why we do the rear first. Only problem is the common rear bar is a little too stiff for the base 5at FSB and if you plan on pushing the limits it will get a little tailhappy.
If you stiffen the front you must stiffen the rear even more. If you stiffen just the rear a little you're fine. If you have a Type S you can throw the Progress bar on there and have a great combo.
If you stiffen the front you must stiffen the rear even more. If you stiffen just the rear a little you're fine. If you have a Type S you can throw the Progress bar on there and have a great combo.
12-29-2010, 12:52 AM
#32
Banned
12-29-2010, 07:34 AM
#33
Team Owner
Its well worth it if you know how to balance it. I carry more speed through the corners than my friends z06. I recommend a fsb upgrade to anyone with a 24mm rear bar and proper rear springs.
12-29-2012, 06:13 PM
#34
Drifting
more speed than a Z06? That's hard to believe.. How did you measure it? And what year Z06?
12-29-2012, 06:19 PM
#35
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12-29-2012, 06:36 PM
#36
Drifting
haha I want to see if he can stick to his guns on this.. 2 yrs later
***Snneeeeebullshiteeeeezzzeeee***
***Snneeeeebullshiteeeeezzzeeee***
Last edited by Chad05TL; 12-29-2012 at 06:44 PM.
05-05-2013, 04:02 PM
#38
Team Owner
How did I miss this back then. By now everyone knows Chad is a Troll. The Z06 owner is one of my best friends, I've driven the car many times. Steady state cornering ability is mostly about the tires. Couple that with a car that has less safety built in (no understeer) for a better handling balance. It's pretty easy to measure when we both enter a corner at the limit with me behind and his is starting to push a little and I'm having to back off the throttle a little to not rear end him. The car also stops in the low to mid 90' range from 60mph which is shorter than the Z06. Dynamics are completely different between the two cars, I would take the Z06 over the TL on the track any day but in steady state cornering the TL will carry a few more mph around the corners. I'm not some ricer thinking the TL is competition for this sort of car but agianst a stock Z06, the TL on good tires with a well set up suspension and a good set of brakes will have the slight edge in cornering and braking. Dynamics between the two cars are worlds apart obviously. I have to be much more gentle with the TL and coax it around corners. I can man handle the Z06 and drive it like I stole it and it never loses composure.
This is an '04 or whatever year the 405hp Z06 is, a better handler than the new Z06s.
Now let's hear Chad's psychobabble trying to explain why a TL can't out handle a Z06 (he claims to be an engineer lol).
This is an '04 or whatever year the 405hp Z06 is, a better handler than the new Z06s.
Now let's hear Chad's psychobabble trying to explain why a TL can't out handle a Z06 (he claims to be an engineer lol).
05-05-2013, 05:02 PM
#39
Three Wheelin'
So in general on a base TL with a-spec suspension... Front type s sway bar - rear progress but in what setting ?? Right now i have just a rear progress on soft with a-spec suspension. There is still to much body roll in my opinion.. When pushed trough a corner it makes a big difference but that initial push doesn't seem very confident at all 
Most likely due to an IDMAX and two small alpines adding to that inertia. When its in track setting it is much better but the ride does suffer quiet a bit.
Most likely due to an IDMAX and two small alpines adding to that inertia. When its in track setting it is much better but the ride does suffer quiet a bit.
05-05-2013, 08:12 PM
#40
Drifting
Sorry, its a new year. I don't have time to listen to stupid people who say their TL can out handle a Z06.. I don't care what your rationale is or if your friend as a corvette.. ahaha.
Just look up at the thread above me. The guy has done MODs to his suspension and still he has body roll. What does that tell you? That means I'm not the only one saying this...
And my TL has the aspec spring kit, and again.. Still I have a FLOATY suspension.. No Z06 is floaty. TL does not equal Z06.
Go away IHC. I don't care what you say and I'm not reading your long ignorant folly.. Zo6 .. pfff.. You know I should post this at www.corvetteforum.com They would slam you so hard.
buh-bye now..
buy bye..
buh bye now..
keep hittn that bong.
inhale.. hold it.. and say "ya I can beat a z06.." now exhale...
And if i'm a troll, then why has this thread been dead for 6 months? pfff! whatev.. see u started it. troll.
Just look up at the thread above me. The guy has done MODs to his suspension and still he has body roll. What does that tell you? That means I'm not the only one saying this...
And my TL has the aspec spring kit, and again.. Still I have a FLOATY suspension.. No Z06 is floaty. TL does not equal Z06.
Go away IHC. I don't care what you say and I'm not reading your long ignorant folly.. Zo6 .. pfff.. You know I should post this at www.corvetteforum.com They would slam you so hard.
buh-bye now..
buy bye..
buh bye now..
keep hittn that bong.
inhale.. hold it.. and say "ya I can beat a z06.." now exhale...
And if i'm a troll, then why has this thread been dead for 6 months? pfff! whatev.. see u started it. troll.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 05-05-2013 at 08:20 PM.