aashiq1001

On last friday there was massive rain in sugarland area, my car was all ok, i had to drove in like 1 inch water as slow as i can to avoid water drops coming in, i was relexed to cross the watered side of road,

when i just crossed the stopped sign on dry side, i suddenly felt a jerk on accelerating which i never felt from rest to motion, i hoped its just a part of accelerating, than suddenly when i turned to highway 6 to speed up,

the Car got hanged(taking so long to reach 40 mph) and suddenly check engine light came, i drove with that state till 1 1/2 miles more to reach my work place, slowly, i felt that;

on pressing the accelerator the cars first few shiftings taking long and i had to press the gas deep to accelerate,

while releasing brake i feel double shift and than on acclerating takes so long for another shift(i felt)

when i was returning after 7 hours of duty, i prayed to God i may reach home safely and took a risk, before moving to highway, i drove in the parking i felt all perfectly normal back but the check engine like was there,

on next day my uncle took the scanner and said there is one Oxygen A/F weak sensor but he was also not sured which precised sensor is weak, but after when he reset the system that check engine light so far didnt come back,

but i am feeling the cars accelaration is like 7 out of 10 right now, as compared to previous, though there is no check engine light

When i am pressing the Accelrator(Gas paddle) on Parking The RPM is stucking or not going crossed 4.5....Hanging there at 4.5

but there is no misfire or anything...

on checking the hood though i found that the intake filter covering attached to the throttle(the big round plastic pipe) is teared too, from clipped side as well as from the side where its attached with the air filter box,

but car is not mis firing or missing or vibrating its perfectly standing without any vibration...,

Please help....Experts Suggestions needed...

Also to notify that the side of intake piping my car has no plastic sheet covering,underneath the bumper that prevents water.....

aashiq1001

moments ago i filled up the tank half to put the Injector cleaner bottle, and i did so, but still i am feeling that car is not accelerating as free as it is supposed to be....i didnt check the air filter as i didnt have the 8 inch tommy to open the behind deep bolt.....! but even since i bought it used its been 5 months, i changed engine oil and transmission oil

Jackass

1.) Replace the intake tube ASAP
2.) Pretty sure there is a built-in rev limiter when out of gear.

No idea what the issue is other than guessing you got some of the sensors wet which caused some oddities.....especially since you state some of the splash shields are missing.

aashiq1001

I was wondering to install custom intake but i came to know it boost fuel efficiency too..along with increasing hp of engine

but i am still waiting for some gem of acura to figure out the problem...

specially the RPM not crossing in Parking gear 4.5 rev and during drive car is not accelerating as its supposed to be

Will Y.

The stock intake system is the most efficient intake for the TL when compared to the aftermarket "cold air" intakes, which will be noisier and less efficient.

The TL is not supposed to rev past 4500 RPM in Park or neutral-- it should only rev past 4500 when in gear (i.e. while driving).

The slow acceleration may be a bad oxygen sensor or the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor.
Replace the intake tubing. If the CEL comes up again, get the error code.
If the slow acceleration continues without a CEL for a couple more days after replacing the intake tubing, it's likely a bad APP sensor, which sometimes does not throw a CEL.

Welcome to AZ.

truonghthe

Land of the Sugar where there is no equal yeh????? like everyone else said replace the intake tube ASAP.

NoTLoud

I will continue to echo what others are saying... get the intake tube replaced. Chances are if you have an air leak in your intake system, you're going to have some issues.

If you are missing some piece of the intake system or a splash guard, you could potentially have sucked some water into your air filter. I would check the state of the filter. Probably just go ahead and replace it while you're at it.

It could be your APP sensor. It can cause your car to go into limp mode. Have you tried using cruise control since you have started having issues?

You could have excessive carbon build up on your throttle body, but honestly the fact this happened after you drove through deeper water points to what everyone else has said.

aashiq1001

I have orderede new intake hose as well as air filter, was wondering to install the new spark plugs all of them but than decided to do it later

not sure about app sensor, but later when there wasnt a check engine light again, for a week once i restarted the system,
it suddenly appear again when i started the car today and got the code checked from advance auto part they told me its P2195 O2 sensor...which previously my uncle also told me,

the causes i read on google was vaccum leak, or low fuel pressure...

also to mention here is before this to happen in the rain, i was constantly having the check engine light due to the fuel cap tightening(as told by the autozone person on scanning first),

but everytime i have to tight more n more than 3 clicks not to have but when my brother used to go n tight it with 3 clicks even or me still sometime i used to have to same check engine light...

i wonder if these things connects with each other...but the pick up or the accelration is really gone emberrasing that i was left behind on accelration by the normal b16 engine civic ... felt like screwed with it

though i am experiencing as if i am an 60 aged man driving with a family everytime when i am driving it singly...which is unlike what was before.....

aashiq1001

Man i Had the P2195 Code.....appeared for like an hour than suddenly disappeared....same like the check engine light came on the rain driving time...but on this occurance i didnt feel any difference in drive...but its getting driven in lower to its class unlike it was prviously running...its running like 7-10 same like it was urrning when my uncle restart the system...and clear the code, i can feel it...adding to elegance is, that

i posted a thread, before of the mini frame cross bolt, that i by my bad luck loosen than its not getting in back, a machenic today said this is not its bolt you have to bring the genuine bolt for it... :S

NoTLoud

Hm, replace the air intake parts and see if it helps.

If you are having an issue with the gas cap saying it's open, I believe it's an issue with the EVAP canister. I believe it just needs to be bled. I would do some searching to see what you can find, but I know you are not the first to have this issue. Could be a fuel pressure related issue. Potentially a clogged catalytic converter. However, with a clogged cat, I would think the car would be throwing a code for it.

My order of business would be this:

1. Fix you intake system. If anything is missing or broken, you're opening yourself up for issues.
2. Fix the gas cap issue. I doubt this would cause performance issues, but there may be more at play here.
3. With these two items fixed, see if there are any check engine codes. If there are any codes, get them read at Autozone or Advanced Auto
4. Come here and search for the fix to any codes you may have
5. Fix any issues throwing a check engine light

Your car usually doesn't throw a CEL for no good reason, get the codes read, fix the issue, and see if it fixes things. Good luck.

aashiq1001

Hello Friends...

I installed the new Air filter, New Hose of the Air too, same codes off and on occuring, when i switch off in between driving than again starts i feel as if all set than suddenly lights goes off than again if i continiously drive for 5 odd miles than again lights come back and car starts stucking....i got it checked quickly to advanced auto parts, and it gave me many of the codes list, but just after i left again the light goes off than next day i started it on cold, suddenly light came back i went to auto zone these codes came them...

P2195 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
P0139 HO2S-12 (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Circuit Slow Response
P2197 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
P2138 APP Sensor A/B pr 1/2 (Throttle Position (TP) Sensor D/E) Incorrect Voltage Correlation (Includes Hybrid Models)

aashiq1001

Auto Zone Paper says ASE certified Master Technicians have seen this issue on your type of vehicle and the most likely solution is: Replace Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (AFR)

NoTLoud

Sounds like it is going into limp mode. I would replace the AFR sensors, but the fact that both the front a rear are bad could be a result of something more at play. I'm just taking a guess here. Is your car idling weird or rough in anyway?

You're throwing a code for the APP sensor. It could be the APP sensor is bad and is causing the car to go into limp mode. I have read that is one of the symptoms of a bad APP sensor.

There could be some other underlying electrical issue though if all of these codes are appearing. I'm not too sure. Check your fuses and battery connection to potentially rule some stuff out. However, you make need to take it somewhere that knows what they are doing and have them look at it if you do not want to just throw parts at it an hope that it fixes the issue.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

interesting, i live in sugar land across from highway 6. Hi neighbor! hope your car is okay

aashiq1001

Bro it seems to me the symptoms are looking like of bad app sensor i read other threads here too, that due to one bad thing other lights occur too, bad oxygen sensor or A/F sensor make fuel efficiency worst than normal, but in my car fuel consumption of the motor or i should be precised of intake is perfectly fine, its just that, i noticed when i put and quickly put off the foot from the accelrator pedal, this light if off comes on(not regularly but when it wants to), and suddenly i feel the car is dieng in between 0-30 mph it starts strolling slowly once it cross 30 it starts flying as normal but the light remains there...

i check the sensors electrically, with the help of youtube, that the resistance is equal in both sensors bank 1 and bank 2, though not sure about the connectors, also not sure how to check acclerator pedal sensor,

aashiq1001

Hey good to know you are my neibour

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

wondering if you still have the problem?

aashiq1001

some things also to tell is that,
when i bought the car, it didn't have still not have engines under cover splash that protects water to come in, may be the time when this problem occured and my car jump in n out the water the water touched the app sensor,

because i can see the waters drop around it, dried.... :/

aashiq1001

Over the night when i started running normal, but the light occurs in 3 cases

if i am driving continiously around 4-5 miles at certain speed,
if i drove 3-4 miles, than switch off than restart again after 2-3 hours break
if i put the foot light to accelerate than take it off than press again,

i am trying to be sophisticated now with the car....still prob remains there :/

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

if you live in sugarland, I wouldnt mind checking it out.
we could possibly switch out my app sensor to your car to trouble shoot.

aashiq1001

which part of sugarland you live in? bro

aashiq1001

culprit was the joint of the app sensor....thats called male connector....due to the broken loosen border, the connector used to get failed and it gave the lights and ao many sensors light attached to intake system...

i changed it by my self...only cost $30....

thanks for the respond and help brothers

Peace n God bless

aashiq1001

Problem was resolved it was Acceleration Pedal Sensor.... admin please close the thread...Thanks...