2004acuratlgreen

Here is what I'm experiencing; Periodically I turn the key and nothing happens. Other times I turn the key and it starts right up. This last time I turned the key and the start sequence began, engine cranked, but very slowly, like the battery was almost dead, then while still in the start key position the start sequence stopped. Returned the key to the off position, turned the key a couple times then it turned over, started like nothing was wrong. Checked battery, which is only a year old and fully charged 12.7V I have already replaced the starter 4 mo. ago. Was beginning to think it might be a ignition key interlock issue, but when it just did that last "died in the start process", that threw me a bit. Anybody have similar issues and a fix?

Jboat

It's always tough to diagnose an intermittent problem. Seems to be electrical in nature. Maybe double check battery cables (tightness/corrosion/brittleness) and that you have a good solid ground. Also double check the wires/harness is properly connected to the starter body, since you said it was recently replaced. Then see if any codes were thrown...

Crank position sensor?

Let us know if you find anything...

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Make certain 12.5 volts, cables clean and tight, but if the starter is a remanufactured starter from e.g. AutoZone? If so, starter could be bad, get another unit.

F(x)

Definitely clean your battery terminals/cables.

nfnsquared

Bad starter or ignition switch would be my guess...

2004acuratlgreen

Thanks for the contributions. The "problem" was resident prior to me replacing the starter. Reading other posts in this blog lead me to think, OK maybe its the solenoid starting to go after 150K on it. but the problem persists, with this last episode of dying in the start sequence. I'll do the battery terminal, ground clean and update after a period of time. Anybody else have ideas?

avs007

I don't remember the link off hand, but there is a youtube video, showing you how to do an electrical/charging system test on your car, with a multimeter. I did this on my car, becuase I was having similar problems...

In my case, it turns out that my negative battery cable wasn't able to pull enough current from the battery, (corrosion didn't look too bad). After thoroughly cleaning the terminals/cables, I sprayed it with some dialectric to prevent the problem from happening again.

2004acuratlgreen

Update; Well it still was intermittent and then just quit. Cleaned the Bat terminals, cleaned ground cable to body connection (short cable). Jumping didn't help Battery had 12.54 volts. Tap the solenoid on the starter, wella!! started up. So, in my case it is a bad solenoid, which was a rebuilt from Advanced Auto.

Anybody know who makes decent starters, or are they all mostly hit or miss. Thanks again for all the input on this, great source of information.

thoiboi

Oem

DMZ

A rebuilt DENSO starter from Rockauto is your best bet. They're the manufacturers of the one that came with our cars to begin with. $103.79 - 5AT and $136.79 - 6M/T after core swap. That's the brand Paul, our mechanic in NJ recommends! He also says when it comes time, replace the whole starter, not just the solenoid.
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Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Personally I'd purchase a new unit, not necessarily from Acura/Honda, but a new aftermarket unit. A TYC unit is inexpensive and comes with a lifetime warranty.
Amazon $86.68 no shipping charges
Rock $80.79 + shipping

Not promoting the TYC product, just using it as an example.

YeuEmMaiMai

absolutely the truth here. Reman parts store starters suck a donkey nut...

2004acuratlgreen

Swapped it out today. Took 1 hr. 45 mins all in. There are six bolts on the battery support box, that is the biggest headache. Two below, and four visible from the top. I noticed that the second re-manufactured one cranked much better than the first one that failed in just 8 mo. of use. If I had to do over again i would buy a re-built Denso from Rock Auto. Winter car repair sucks.

2004acuratlgreen

Update, starter would do it periodically again. Since it was a crap one from Advanced Auto. Swapped it out since it was guaranteed . Still intermittent after about two months. I'll assume it was the rebuilt bad one initially , but rectified the problem by selling it, and giving the warranty to the new owner. I agree, in the future, only use OEM Denso rebuilt.