mlody

I fixed my issue (about 1-2 months ago) by simply tightening the cable and all is well. I had over one inch of loose on the cable and was concerned about it as I almost ran out of thread on the bolt before I was able to make it tight. So far so good.

pala16

Hi everyone, I'm new here and have read all the posts in this thread - and it seems this is exactly what's going on with my '04 TSX. I can take it to the dealership Monday, but judging by posts here, it's going to be around $450-500 and I just can't afford that right now.

I wish the fix would be as simple as the cable being loose, but figure it's likely the sensor. Btw, the dealership did throttle body service not long ago - could that have any connection to this?

I'm an older woman so I sure can't do the repair myself (and don't know any mechanics personally).

As it takes around 15-20 minutes to do the job, do you guys have any suggestions of places that might be able to do this properly for a much more reasonable rate than the dealership? I'm hesistant to go to any of the smaller shops, and I sure won't go to places like NTB or Firestone as I've had really bad experiences with them. I even wondered if maybe Auto Zone or O'Reilly's might have an employee who does basic repairs and would be willing to do this when I order the sensor.

Would really appreciate your feedback.

Thank you!

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

I'm also experiencing symptoms of an APP sensor failure. Had the Cable tightened but that didn't fix it. Gonna have to get the sensor replaced.

pala16

I doubted the cable would be the fix in my situation.

But . . . when I got into my car today, the VSA was no longer on, but the malfunction warning indicator was still on.

I was driving fine, so I took it to O'Reilly and Auto Zone for computer check - both read code:

"P2138 APP Sensor A/B or 1/2 TPS D/E - Incorrect Volate Correlation - Code P2138 indicates that with the ignition on the PCM detected the difference between the throttle/pedal position sensor/switch D signation and the throttle/pedal position sensor/switch E signal was greater than the maximum allowable value"

However . . . I had read that a few people resolved the issue completely by tightening their gas cap. So on the way home, I stopped and put in about half a tank of gas and made sure to tighten the cap with several clicks. I got in, started my car - and the malfunction light was off. It drove fine and a few hours later I went out and started it up - no warning lights on.

The Acura manual I have says the gas cap may be a possible source of the problem.

So I'm wondering that IF this did solve the problem - and caused the warning light to be on, would the Auto Zone computer show the code for the APP sensor just because that particular light was on??

I hope this was the fix, but I'm not feeling confident yet because frankly, my car has had that "push/pull" when accelerating from a stop sign, etc. for a long time now, so that may have been the first symptoms of the APP sensor going out, and this gas cap may just be coincidence or something. ??

Would really appreciate some feedback on this. Thanks.

Will Y.

If you're a AAA member, look for a shop that is approved by it.
Otherwise, look for a Honda/Acura shop with a great rating on Yelp.
The three shops my family cars go to are all small shops with 2 car hoists (and full parking lots with customer parking).

FWIW, I paid just under $300 last Monday to have the TL's APP sensor replaced after it went bad while driving on a freeway transition ramp (VSA and CEL lit up and lost throttle response, so I coasted to the right shoulder, turned off ignition and restarted-- car drove fine after that, but with the CEL remaining lit).

Welcome to AZ.

pala16

Thank you.

Thus far, the warning lights are still off - and I attribute it to tightening the gas cap. The Acura manual says that is the first thing to check.

However, it is still surging at times, so I ordered the APP just to have it here in case the warning lights come back on because I can't take a chance of it going into limp mode in heavy traffic or out on the freeway.

Plus, I'm hoping the APP will help it run better overall. For quite some time whenever I pull forward from a stop, my car feels kind of like one part is moving forward and another part is dragging behind . . . that's what I describe as the "push/pull" effect - and I've read some others say the same type of thing, so perhaps the APP replacement will remedy that.

I got a good price on it, with 2-day shipping, and I'm going to find a mechanic somewhere who's willing to replace it on his own time for a small fee - since it takes only about 10 minutes.

As much as I'd prefer to have an Acura dealership work on my car, since they are (allegedly) trained Acura techs, they are just so outrageously expensive it's beyond my budget.

pala16

Have you tried tightening the gas cap?

I put some gas in and gave the cap a few extra clicks, started my car, and the warning lights went off. I doubt it's a permanent fix, and I've ordered the APP just in case, but thus far, the warning lights are staying off and it's not gone into limp mode again.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Not yet. I don't have a code that has popped up yet either and the symptoms of the APP sensor failure have somewhat disappeared.

Will Y.

You both might as well get the APP sensor replaced now to resolve your drivability issues before further deterioration.

Many of the posts about the bad APP sensor involve symptoms like delayed throttle response or surging, but no CEL initially.
By comparison, my failure was unusual in that there were no symptoms prior to the full-on CEL/VSA light and limp mode episode.

mlody

It appears that tightening is only a short term band aid solution - at least for me, it was. Recently, like last week or so, my car started to hesitate when accelerating and today it totally failed on mine. I ended up going to a local Autozone and picked up the replacement part (PPS1046 in my case) and replaced it within 20-25 minutes or so. A Very easy job as long as you have a socket wrench set with extensions. Beats the hell out of $435 and $520 quotes that I got since I only paid about $175 for the part (including tax).

I did a quick drive around the block and so far so good. The check engine disappeared on its own. I will keep an eye on this and report back in a month or so.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Pala16, where are you located? If you are close to a member, maybe they would be kind enough to lend a helping hand.

pala16

Thanks.

I received the APP sensor that I ordered and kept it in my car just in case I had any issue on the road, but finally got it installed today. The local shops were going to charge anywhere from $90 and up . . . for a 10-15 minute job. Someone I know said he could install it, which was great because I didn't even know he does mechanic work for people and so I paid him a fair fee, really saved me some money. The sensor is now on, and wow, can't believe the difference!

Even though the warning lights had not come back on, I was still getting the surging and the hesitation starting up from a stop light or stop sign and the past couple of days it was really running rough, at times like it wasn't going to get enough power.

I was anxious to drive it after the install and when I backed out of my driveway and put it in drive, I could not believe the power just from that little bit of acceleration. I've thus far driven it once since the install, but it ran smooth, has more power, the accelerator feels more responsive, AND when I started to turn from a stop at an intersection it did not have that "push-pull" feel which it had for a long time and which I had tried to explain several times to different mechanics and no one knew what it could be. It was strange and the only way I could describe it is by saying that it almost felt like one part of my car was going to move forward and the other half was dragging behind a little, like the two halves were going to separate, weird explanation but that's how it felt. If I'm right about this new sensor resolving that issue, too, then I guess it means the previous sensor must have been getting bad for some time.

Sure hope this resolves the issues!

Thanks for your feedback.

pala16

Hi and thanks. I was actually thinking that too, but thankfully someone I know does mechanic work every now and again and I didn't even know it, so he installed it for me today (post above).

I appreciate your feedback!

ds03

Glad everything worked out. I too replaced mine recently and it drives like a new car. I totally understand about the hesitation as mine was doing the same thing for a couple of years.

pala16

Thanks, same to you! Isn't it great to get something fixed and realize how much better your car is performing after having an issue for so long?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

have people experienced better and more consistent throttle response after replacing the sensor that DIDN'T have the code prior? I get a decent amount of low rpm surging/sensitivity but i have no codes. i talked my local acura parts guy and they said it's usually associated with a code....so i'm wondering if i'm just throwing money away if i get it replaced now? should i be proactive on this? i've had my car 8 years and i plan to keep it for a while longer.

ds03

It's only $125 to try it. I'm guessing you'll be happy you did. I had the same surging/sensitive throttle you describe for a couple years before any codes showed up.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

yea i just placed an order for it from my acura parts guy. just a heads up to everyone else, price is now at 150 and that's with my acura parts hookup. but like you said might as well do it now. thanks!

Jackass

Yes...mine never threw a code, it was just a bitch to drive since the throttle was so jumpy.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the feedback...got the part coming in tomorrow and should have it on 20 min after that

pala16

Well, my car did show the codes, BUT I believe the issue was present LONG before the warning lights came on, so it could be that if you are having the same issues, it's just not gotten to the point where the warning indicator light will display.

I believe that had I replaced mine some time back, I wouldn't have had to worry so much about that overall "push/pull" feel that it had coming out from stops. The lights didn't come on until the surging became more frequent.

Guess only you can decide whether or not to replace, but if you do, check Amazon. I got mine for $80 cheaper than a quote from O'Reilly.

pala16

Oops, I posted to you above without reading further in the thread. Probably good that you decided to replace. My friend got it done in 20 minutes, and would have been a bit sooner but had a slight issue with getting to the bolts underneath the plate.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

sockr1 - let me know if this fixes your issue. I am experiencing the same exact symptoms. Probably going to purchase one this week, just need to find the cheapest place for OEM.

pala16

You might try Amazon. Got mine much cheaper than parts store.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Cheapest I have found so far is around $140.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

sounds about right. i got mine from the dealer for 150 but he always gives me their best price. i'll let you know if mine helps me out

Jackass

My test to finally convince me that I needed to replace it was using cruise control vs manual pedal to prove the bucking only happened when manually applying throttle. My bucking/stumbling issues were mostly in the low RPM/pedal travel only. Getting the car going fast enough to where cruise control works (I think above 20mph), verify that it is bucking/stumbling, then engage cruise control. If it smooths out, then assume it is the APP sensor. I could accelerate and hold steady speeds smooth as can be when using my cruise, but when manually doing it, it bucked constantly.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

replaced my APP sensor last night at 1130pm haha. it was a pretty easy install but i had to take apart/out more stuff than i thought. i had to remove my strut bar for sure to get it out. i also had to remove the entire bracket assembly off the car because there was no chance of getting a socket into those recessed holes. that would have saved a bunch more time but the holes are too small so i took everything out, took off every screw and put it back together. i kept playing with the slack in the line until i had it just right and made sure that the throttle "tab" was bottoming out to the full 0 position when releasing throttle.

when i took off the cover, my throttle wire did have more slack than spec'd in the manual, but i replaced the sensor anyways. had the car 8 years so this sensor should last me another 8. car drives much better and i'm very happy i made the switch!! thanks AZ and members who contributed to the thread!

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

My symptoms have pretty much disappeared but I've got one on order. I certainly don't want to be put in some sort of dangerous situation and have the sensor fail. Based on what I've read, I guess I should be thankful that it has lasted this long.

Majofo

That is pretty impressive.. I'm not aware of too many OGs who haven't had to replace it.

ds03

I believe I removed the wire first, and then was able to slide the assembly (including bracket) to a wide enough opening to remove it without messing with the strut bar.

Also, for those looking to purchase the part, I found the best deal on eBay (was some dealer account) so I would look around.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

i also have edfc motor wires in that same area that i can't disconnect so i had no option haha. others will probably have it easier.
car drives much smoother now!

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the feedback. I will check the slack in the cable and if that doesn't fix it, I will order the next one I see for a good price. I do have the one off my old car, I wonder if that one would be any better...

midnightcivic

iTrader: (1)

Wanted to update the thread with the part i purchased off of amazon
"Standard Motor Products APS147 Accelerator Pedal Sensor "

They are the same OEM manufacture, plus prime shipping if you have an account

thoiboi

Coool, i hope you give us a long term review to see how it holds up

midnightcivic

iTrader: (1)

It was ordered on August 1, 2016, pretty sure i installed it a couple days later, so far it has been doing well. I drive 60miles a day to and from work so i put on a lot of mileage.

mayjarjar

I'm wondering if replacing the app sensor will fix the problem I'm having with my 08 TL auto. The car will not rev past 2500 rpms while in 5th gear. That goes for both auto and the manual mode. If the car is in auto and I know it's in 5th gear I'll try to accelerate higher than 2500 rpms but the car will just just downshift to 4th and then I'm looking at much higher rpms. When I'm in the manual mode and I shift it to 5th it doesn't matter how hard I press the accelerator it will not rev past 2500 rpms. This doesn't really affect my daily driving as even in 5th gear with the car not revving past 2500 rpms I can still accelerate to over 90 mph and I really only go 80mph on the highway. I would just like to fix this because I hate anything being wrong with my car! If anyone has had this happen and solved it your input would be greatly appreciated.. or if you have any suggestions that would appreciated as well!

Mark Costa

My car had some issues with going into limp home mode and my check engine light came on. This happened on and off maybe 3-4 times over 2 months. I used Autozones code scanner to get P2138 which says that there is an incorrect voltage on either the APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) sensor or TP(Throttle Position) sensor. But, it went away. My check engine light turned off and I haven't had any issues since (about a month and a half). 2 questions,

1) Has anyone ever had the issue be TP instead of the APP? seems like for most people it is the APP
2) Anyone have advice on whether I should do the sensor switch sooner rather than later? Seems to be running like before I had acceleration/limp home mode issues.

ds03

I'd just replace it now. It will continue to get worse and not too difficult or expensive to replace.

Waffeey

Thinking about replacing my APP sensor just for preventative maintenance. For those who had there's completely fail and surge or go into limp mode, did you notice any hints of the sensor going bad or did it just all of the sudden stop working? I have a long commute and $150 for replacing a sensor would be much better than a tow home.