Bought my first Acura TL Type S Kinetic Blue (Manual)
10-28-2015, 05:04 PM
#122
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
if you want the default preload per tein, set your spring seating surfaces 198mm apart for the front and 249mm for the rear. i had to email them for this info. set it to that to start and then tighten the two upper rings against each other so you will only change height once installed.
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
10-28-2015, 08:18 PM
#123
if you want the default preload per tein, set your spring seating surfaces 198mm apart for the front and 249mm for the rear. i had to email them for this info. set it to that to start and then tighten the two upper rings against each other so you will only change height once installed.
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
how do you know if you set it to 198mm and 249mm preload how do you measure that?
10-28-2015, 08:42 PM
#125
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You can't open it until Christmas....
10-28-2015, 08:57 PM
#126
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
What color is the lip kit and how much is it costing to paint it? Exciting!
Tou measure from spring surface to spring surface. Basically measuring spring length. If it's less than those numbers you have preload. If
It's more than that then the spring is loose.
It's more than that then the spring is loose.
Last edited by sockr1; 10-28-2015 at 09:01 PM.
10-28-2015, 10:57 PM
#127
Negative lol
198mm and 249mm length seem so short. Is this the configuration for the tein flex?
Marcus,
do you know if what sockr1 is valid as far as the preload setting of 198mm for front and 249mm for the back?
What color is the lip kit and how much is it costing to paint it? Exciting!
the color is KBP front and back and cost 620 shipped =)
Tou measure from spring surface to spring surface. Basically measuring spring length. If it's less than those numbers you have preload. If
It's more than that then the spring is loose.
the color is KBP front and back and cost 620 shipped =)
Tou measure from spring surface to spring surface. Basically measuring spring length. If it's less than those numbers you have preload. If
It's more than that then the spring is loose.
if you want the default preload per tein, set your spring seating surfaces 198mm apart for the front and 249mm for the rear. i had to email them for this info. set it to that to start and then tighten the two upper rings against each other so you will only change height once installed.
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
if you want the default preload per tein, set your spring seating surfaces 198mm apart for the front and 249mm for the rear. i had to email them for this info. set it to that to start and then tighten the two upper rings against each other so you will only change height once installed.
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
i didn't do this so my preload got changed while i was installing and now i want to go back in there and make sure i have those default preload values in there. from there i'll change the preload in the front til i get it dialed in
marcus at heeltoe said don't add preload to the rear but up to a 1/4" in front will be ok, but ultimate feel is up to you:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...e-street..html
hopefully this helps you, i know for sure this would have helped me initially but it's not too bad getting back in there to get back to those preload values
The Tein Street Flex is definitely a better overall "enthusiast" kit than a Street Advance. There are a lot of people who only need the Street Advance for their needs though. The upper mounts add convenience, at a cost. The full-length adjustment is great for lowering more, but anyone keeping it around 2" doesn't need it. Both great kits, and there is a right kit for everyone 
Marcus,
do you know if what sockr1 is valid as far as the preload setting of 198mm for front and 249mm for the back?
Last edited by Steven Bell; 10-29-2015 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Merge Posts
10-29-2015, 02:08 PM
#128
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
these numbers are DIRECTLY from tein. i talk to them pretty often haha
install them and i'm sure they'll make more sense
Last edited by sockr1; 10-29-2015 at 02:19 PM.
10-29-2015, 08:38 PM
#129
yes of course it's for the tein flex i just installed them. i don't think you understand what i'm saying. if you think those are too short, just set the distance to whatever you think is right and go from there.
these numbers are DIRECTLY from tein. i talk to them pretty often haha
install them and i'm sure they'll make more sense
these numbers are DIRECTLY from tein. i talk to them pretty often haha
install them and i'm sure they'll make more sense
Last edited by KBTypeS; 10-29-2015 at 08:42 PM.
11-22-2015, 12:26 AM
#131
Finally some update of my new ride.
A spec install. Coils install. And alignment done.
First setting on adjustment
2nd drop adjustment
final drop adjustment
alignment getting done. ignore the tech lol
Before and after alignment
A spec install. Coils install. And alignment done.
First setting on adjustment
2nd drop adjustment
final drop adjustment
alignment getting done. ignore the tech lol
Before and after alignment
11-22-2015, 09:54 AM
#133
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Congrats on the drop! KBP is so sexy 
11-22-2015, 10:21 AM
#134
11-22-2015, 01:52 PM
#135
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Outstanding....perfect stance.
11-22-2015, 07:12 PM
#137
11-22-2015, 07:25 PM
#138
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
you definitely need an aftermarket wheel now, or put some spacers on those for a great look.
regarding camber, i don't like going too far out of oem specs, i have the same front camber as you and left it as is. for the rear i have an ingalls camber kit (no issues for years even though others do), and always have the shop set my rear camber to -1.0. it's right in the middle of the oem specs and gives me a good feeling rather than the high camber.
toe is worst than camber and needs to be corrected, but camber can still have an impact on your wear. i would get one if i were you
what did you put your damper setting at?
11-22-2015, 08:04 PM
#139
the drop looks great, glad you got it all in ok!
you definitely need an aftermarket wheel now, or put some spacers on those for a great look.
regarding camber, i don't like going too far out of oem specs, i have the same front camber as you and left it as is. for the rear i have an ingalls camber kit (no issues for years even though others do), and always have the shop set my rear camber to -1.0. it's right in the middle of the oem specs and gives me a good feeling rather than the high camber.
toe is worst than camber and needs to be corrected, but camber can still have an impact on your wear. i would get one if i were you
what did you put your damper setting at?
you definitely need an aftermarket wheel now, or put some spacers on those for a great look.
regarding camber, i don't like going too far out of oem specs, i have the same front camber as you and left it as is. for the rear i have an ingalls camber kit (no issues for years even though others do), and always have the shop set my rear camber to -1.0. it's right in the middle of the oem specs and gives me a good feeling rather than the high camber.
toe is worst than camber and needs to be corrected, but camber can still have an impact on your wear. i would get one if i were you
what did you put your damper setting at?
spec on damper is full stiff in front and half in rear.
and the vibration it okay now. I hardly feel it.
11-22-2015, 09:57 PM
#140
Confusing Name Guy
Definitely go with the SPC arms for the rear and Skunk2s for the front. Since you don't intend on going too low, don't bother with the "Hellaflush" skunk2 arms, just get the regular ones - plus you can always do the mod yourself
11-22-2015, 10:42 PM
#141
Stay away from the ingalls kit - Number of issues brought up with it by various people over a period of several years on here, that whether the various vendors that sell it want to admit it or not, are a serious knock against it.
Definitely go with the SPC arms for the rear and Skunk2s for the front. Since you don't intend on going too low, don't bother with the "Hellaflush" skunk2 arms, just get the regular ones - plus you can always do the mod yourself
Definitely go with the SPC arms for the rear and Skunk2s for the front. Since you don't intend on going too low, don't bother with the "Hellaflush" skunk2 arms, just get the regular ones - plus you can always do the mod yourself
<a href="https://www.heeltoeauto.com/blogs/for-camber-rear-kits-avoid-parts-with-aftermarket-ball-joints..html">HeelToeAutomotive Ingalls</a>
11-22-2015, 11:30 PM
#142
Confusing Name Guy
I should add that the Ingalls kit in no way replaces the stock OEM arms when it comes to performance - unlike the OEM arm, which uses a spherical bearing on one end and hardened bushing on the other, the Ingalls arms use fairly soft rubber bushings all around - not very conducive to good handling.
When I have the money I will be going with Hardrace arms which are all spherical bushings all around, and what you want if you want to properly dial in your suspension - Just look at the Yawsport TL for example - they track their TL hard, and in order to dial in their suspension they converted ALL of the OEM arms to spherical bearings.
I have nothing but nice things to say about the SPC arm myself thus far - It has held my camber spec since it was last aligned in May, and just like the OEM arm it uses a spherical bearing and a fairly solid ball joint. The only concern you may have with the SPC arm is the dust boot, and that's why most folks on here (including me) will just buy new OEM dust boots and put them on the SPC arms.
The SPC arms are easier to install as well as easier to dial in - dialling in lower camber arms while adjusting toe arms is significantly harder than just dialling in upper camber arms during alignments. In fact, I aligned my camber spec myself using just an iphone and a level.
My point is not necessarily to bash the vendors on this site - They've done a huge service to the community by supporting this platform when few others would. Its to point out that from a sheer technical standpoint, I think the SPC arms are much better, and have significantly less problems. I've never read a SINGLE thread on here in the Wheels and Suspension section that has described issues with the SPC arms. On the other hand I've read more than a few (lets say 5+) that all describe the same issues with Ingalls arms going out of spec, worn bushings, rusting within 500 miles etc.
I guess it comes down to me saying buyer beware
EDIT: I should add that I'm sure there WERE threads on SPC issues, the dust boot issue for one. However, that was quickly resolved with a simple, and cheap, modification - the OEM dust boot. With the Ingalls arms, in order to solve the area of concern you effectively have to get new bushings / bearings pressed in, which makes no sense from an economy standpoint at probably a hundred bucks in labor and I'm sure another fair chunk of change for the bearings and whatnot. Why do that when you can simply get the SPC arms, spend an extra 5 - 6 dollars on dust boots and be done, while enjoying the OEM arms, which are a better product than both Ingalls and SPC.
Last edited by N1h1l1ty; 11-22-2015 at 11:35 PM.
11-23-2015, 12:10 AM
#143
And yet numerous people on this board have complained and demanded refunds from him and he refused to believe that the product is inferior, and he and XLR8 continue to sell them. I strongly urge you to go find those threads and read the numerous recollections of people having the Ingalls kit go out of alignment, torn bushings, etc.
I should add that the Ingalls kit in no way replaces the stock OEM arms when it comes to performance - unlike the OEM arm, which uses a spherical bearing on one end and hardened bushing on the other, the Ingalls arms use fairly soft rubber bushings all around - not very conducive to good handling.
When I have the money I will be going with Hardrace arms which are all spherical bushings all around, and what you want if you want to properly dial in your suspension - Just look at the Yawsport TL for example - they track their TL hard, and in order to dial in their suspension they converted ALL of the OEM arms to spherical bearings.
I have nothing but nice things to say about the SPC arm myself thus far - It has held my camber spec since it was last aligned in May, and just like the OEM arm it uses a spherical bearing and a fairly solid ball joint. The only concern you may have with the SPC arm is the dust boot, and that's why most folks on here (including me) will just buy new OEM dust boots and put them on the SPC arms.
The SPC arms are easier to install as well as easier to dial in - dialling in lower camber arms while adjusting toe arms is significantly harder than just dialling in upper camber arms during alignments. In fact, I aligned my camber spec myself using just an iphone and a level.
My point is not necessarily to bash the vendors on this site - They've done a huge service to the community by supporting this platform when few others would. Its to point out that from a sheer technical standpoint, I think the SPC arms are much better, and have significantly less problems. I've never read a SINGLE thread on here in the Wheels and Suspension section that has described issues with the SPC arms. On the other hand I've read more than a few (lets say 5+) that all describe the same issues with Ingalls arms going out of spec, worn bushings, rusting within 500 miles etc.
I guess it comes down to me saying buyer beware
EDIT: I should add that I'm sure there WERE threads on SPC issues, the dust boot issue for one. However, that was quickly resolved with a simple, and cheap, modification - the OEM dust boot. With the Ingalls arms, in order to solve the area of concern you effectively have to get new bushings / bearings pressed in, which makes no sense from an economy standpoint at probably a hundred bucks in labor and I'm sure another fair chunk of change for the bearings and whatnot. Why do that when you can simply get the SPC arms, spend an extra 5 - 6 dollars on dust boots and be done, while enjoying the OEM arms, which are a better product than both Ingalls and SPC.
I should add that the Ingalls kit in no way replaces the stock OEM arms when it comes to performance - unlike the OEM arm, which uses a spherical bearing on one end and hardened bushing on the other, the Ingalls arms use fairly soft rubber bushings all around - not very conducive to good handling.
When I have the money I will be going with Hardrace arms which are all spherical bushings all around, and what you want if you want to properly dial in your suspension - Just look at the Yawsport TL for example - they track their TL hard, and in order to dial in their suspension they converted ALL of the OEM arms to spherical bearings.
I have nothing but nice things to say about the SPC arm myself thus far - It has held my camber spec since it was last aligned in May, and just like the OEM arm it uses a spherical bearing and a fairly solid ball joint. The only concern you may have with the SPC arm is the dust boot, and that's why most folks on here (including me) will just buy new OEM dust boots and put them on the SPC arms.
The SPC arms are easier to install as well as easier to dial in - dialling in lower camber arms while adjusting toe arms is significantly harder than just dialling in upper camber arms during alignments. In fact, I aligned my camber spec myself using just an iphone and a level.
My point is not necessarily to bash the vendors on this site - They've done a huge service to the community by supporting this platform when few others would. Its to point out that from a sheer technical standpoint, I think the SPC arms are much better, and have significantly less problems. I've never read a SINGLE thread on here in the Wheels and Suspension section that has described issues with the SPC arms. On the other hand I've read more than a few (lets say 5+) that all describe the same issues with Ingalls arms going out of spec, worn bushings, rusting within 500 miles etc.
I guess it comes down to me saying buyer beware
EDIT: I should add that I'm sure there WERE threads on SPC issues, the dust boot issue for one. However, that was quickly resolved with a simple, and cheap, modification - the OEM dust boot. With the Ingalls arms, in order to solve the area of concern you effectively have to get new bushings / bearings pressed in, which makes no sense from an economy standpoint at probably a hundred bucks in labor and I'm sure another fair chunk of change for the bearings and whatnot. Why do that when you can simply get the SPC arms, spend an extra 5 - 6 dollars on dust boots and be done, while enjoying the OEM arms, which are a better product than both Ingalls and SPC.
11-23-2015, 08:08 AM
#144
I wouldn't touch your camber unless you are buying wheels that require it. I mean, -1 is ideal, but not for handling and realistically, your wear isn't gonna be from camber, it comes from toe in/out which you already corrected. Buy tires that are directional/symmetrical so you can have them flipped.
If you're hellbent on correcting it go with the upper armed SPC one, it's much less complex than the 2 armed lower one that takes toe into account to then set the camber. Plus, I had a cheap set with the shitty bushings N1 mentions (worse probably because they were ebay quality) and you do NOT want to feel how the car handles with those on...scary shit.
that said, BOY does that car look good dropped!
If you're hellbent on correcting it go with the upper armed SPC one, it's much less complex than the 2 armed lower one that takes toe into account to then set the camber. Plus, I had a cheap set with the shitty bushings N1 mentions (worse probably because they were ebay quality) and you do NOT want to feel how the car handles with those on...scary shit.
that said, BOY does that car look good dropped!
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-23-2015 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Merge Posts
11-23-2015, 12:14 PM
#145
I wouldn't touch your camber unless you are buying wheels that require it. I mean, -1 is ideal, but not for handling and realistically, your wear isn't gonna be from camber, it comes from toe in/out which you already corrected. Buy tires that are directional/symmetrical so you can have them flipped.
If you're hellbent on correcting it go with the upper armed SPC one, it's much less complex than the 2 armed lower one that takes toe into account to then set the camber. Plus, I had a cheap set with the shitty bushings N1 mentions (worse probably because they were ebay quality) and you do NOT want to feel how the car handles with those on...scary shit.
If you're hellbent on correcting it go with the upper armed SPC one, it's much less complex than the 2 armed lower one that takes toe into account to then set the camber. Plus, I had a cheap set with the shitty bushings N1 mentions (worse probably because they were ebay quality) and you do NOT want to feel how the car handles with those on...scary shit.
Thanks man but not good as your s2k
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-23-2015 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Merge Posts
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rockstar143 (11-23-2015)
11-23-2015, 08:03 PM
#146
Fuck it, man...I wouldn't bother with -2.6...get your spacers and call it a day.
If down the line, you decide you have the space to correct...spc upper for the rear and that's it...spc balljoint on the front if you MUST.
But again, natural camber is what the car wants...my S2000 has that, and it rides just great.
Thanks, man...I love my babies!
If down the line, you decide you have the space to correct...spc upper for the rear and that's it...spc balljoint on the front if you MUST.
But again, natural camber is what the car wants...my S2000 has that, and it rides just great.
Thanks, man...I love my babies!
11-24-2015, 09:03 AM
#147
Fuck it, man...I wouldn't bother with -2.6...get your spacers and call it a day.
If down the line, you decide you have the space to correct...spc upper for the rear and that's it...spc balljoint on the front if you MUST.
But again, natural camber is what the car wants...my S2000 has that, and it rides just great.
Thanks, man...I love my babies!
If down the line, you decide you have the space to correct...spc upper for the rear and that's it...spc balljoint on the front if you MUST.
But again, natural camber is what the car wants...my S2000 has that, and it rides just great.
Thanks, man...I love my babies!
11-24-2015, 08:12 PM
#149
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I'd do both too....you won't be sorry.
11-24-2015, 08:46 PM
#150
11-29-2015, 03:39 PM
#151
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^^^ 15's on the front and 20's on the back.
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Oh Sickest TL (11-29-2015)
12-02-2015, 09:14 PM
#152
new parts came in!
install my SPC camber kit for the rear:
never used the ball joint separator on the left!!!! that thing is a piece of crap. The one on the right works like a charm!
install my SPC camber kit for the rear:
never used the ball joint separator on the left!!!! that thing is a piece of crap. The one on the right works like a charm!
12-06-2015, 04:30 PM
#153
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Undying Dreams (01-10-2016)
12-18-2015, 06:57 PM
#159
12-18-2015, 07:06 PM
#160
Thanks man. It has center cap if you can see the picture. As far as 255 I current have it on the car with about 1 finger gap. Just need to roll my fenders. But I'm probably going to change to 245 40 18 instead.