What to mod to get the best Shifts (MT)
#1
What to mod to get the best Shifts (MT)
Hey AZ. Need some advice/insight on how to make my TL shift as smooth as possible (MANUAL TRANSMISSION). After getting a feel for how the car currently drives, I definitely feel the shifting on my TL can be improved. After doing some research on AZ, I plan on doing the following to help with the shifts, in that order..
1. Replace MTF with GM/AC Delco syncromesh
2. Remove slave cylinder check valve
3. CT short shifter
Not sure what else i can do for mods/upgrades. Feel free to chime in and let me know what would help with shifting.
1. Replace MTF with GM/AC Delco syncromesh
2. Remove slave cylinder check valve
3. CT short shifter
Not sure what else i can do for mods/upgrades. Feel free to chime in and let me know what would help with shifting.
#2
Driver mod
The following 5 users liked this post by alexb92:
EvilVirus (03-02-2017),
justnspace (03-05-2017),
TacoBello (03-02-2017),
teh CL (03-02-2017),
thoiboi (03-02-2017)
#8
#10
Team Owner
SS clutch lines
if someone makes it, I guess there will always be a sucker to buy it.
Buy a short shifter. But don't be upset when your 3rd gear synchro eventually dies. Pair it with GMSMFM and you'll get longer life, but still, the downside of messing with engineering that was made to last is you'll shorten the overall life. All mods come with risk. No two ways around it.
if someone makes it, I guess there will always be a sucker to buy it.
Buy a short shifter. But don't be upset when your 3rd gear synchro eventually dies. Pair it with GMSMFM and you'll get longer life, but still, the downside of messing with engineering that was made to last is you'll shorten the overall life. All mods come with risk. No two ways around it.
The following users liked this post:
teh CL (03-02-2017)
#11
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
^^ i did the SS braided line and i noticed it immediately. Consistent firm pedal feel. Worth it
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...n-pics-750833/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...n-pics-750833/
Last edited by sockr1; 03-02-2017 at 10:24 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by sockr1:
6spd-GERCO (03-03-2017),
EvilVirus (03-03-2017)
#12
Burning Brakes
I would skip a weighted shift knob, I had one but prefer the stock shift knob over an aftermarket, personal preference.
For the ultimate shift feels look to the Ktuned shift assemblies Link. TSX / Accord Shifter You never hear anybody say they suck :P.
I have SS clutch lines on my TL and Integra, It's a worth while buy IMO. Same principle as SS brake lines, just not as dramatic. If you have the system drained its worth it to pop on in. .
For the ultimate shift feels look to the Ktuned shift assemblies Link. TSX / Accord Shifter You never hear anybody say they suck :P.
I have SS clutch lines on my TL and Integra, It's a worth while buy IMO. Same principle as SS brake lines, just not as dramatic. If you have the system drained its worth it to pop on in. .
SS clutch lines
if someone makes it, I guess there will always be a sucker to buy it.
Buy a short shifter. But don't be upset when your 3rd gear synchro eventually dies. Pair it with GMSMFM and you'll get longer life, but still, the downside of messing with engineering that was made to last is you'll shorten the overall life. All mods come with risk. No two ways around it.
if someone makes it, I guess there will always be a sucker to buy it.
Buy a short shifter. But don't be upset when your 3rd gear synchro eventually dies. Pair it with GMSMFM and you'll get longer life, but still, the downside of messing with engineering that was made to last is you'll shorten the overall life. All mods come with risk. No two ways around it.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (03-03-2017)
#13
Instructor
I would skip a weighted shift knob, I had one but prefer the stock shift knob over an aftermarket, personal preference.
For the ultimate shift feels look to the Ktuned shift assemblies Link. TSX / Accord Shifter You never hear anybody say they suck :P.
I have SS clutch lines on my TL and Integra, It's a worth while buy IMO. Same principle as SS brake lines, just not as dramatic. If you have the system drained its worth it to pop on in. .
For the ultimate shift feels look to the Ktuned shift assemblies Link. TSX / Accord Shifter You never hear anybody say they suck :P.
I have SS clutch lines on my TL and Integra, It's a worth while buy IMO. Same principle as SS brake lines, just not as dramatic. If you have the system drained its worth it to pop on in. .
After incrementally going up in weight from various OEM knobs to progressively heavier knobs, I have to say that adding weight to your shifter is extremely pleasing and makes shifting a lot more fun and effortless. Pay attention to the weight and go up or down according to your preferences. Years ago I started with a bronzed JDM Accord Euro-R CL1 shift knob that weighed 150g and it was nice. A handful of shift knobs later I'm using the countersunk Maven by Fastline Performance that weighs 472g and it's perfect (aesthetics, texture, shape, etc.). Would I like a heavier knob? Maybe, but this one is the bees knees. Highly recommended you experiment with shift knobs in combination with other shifting mods like bushings, short shifter, etc.
Is the OEM 6 speed shift knob nice? Yea, but needs moar grams.
#16
Instructor
#19
Burning Brakes
Weighted knobs are more of gimmick to sell a really shiny piece of metal with weight at a higher prices. I admit I bought into it at first before I thought about it for a little. I had the Countersunk Mavin shift knob I bought it because I liked the way it looked, I sold it a while back.
The Comptech short shifter achieves it's throws by increasing the shift side of the fulcrum and reducing the distance the lever side has to travel. However, this reduces the mechanical advantage of the lever side of the fulcrum. By having the shifter knob lower (by being countersunk) it reduces the advantage even further and makes the lever side of the fulcrum even shorter. Shift knob websites say that the larger knob allows for more kinetic energy, what they don't mention is that it takes more energy to actually get it in motion compared to a lighter one, lol but that's really splitting hairs. People buy different knobs because they like they way they look aesthetically.
If I had to do it all over again on my TL I would get the K-tuned assembly, it changes the gate mechanism entirely and allows you to customize the throw. I run their shift lever in my Integra and absolutely love it, along with a beefed up and modified shift change assembly that is inside the transmission and is responsible for moving the the gear forks.
I vote for a Ktuned shift assembly, check valve delete plus ss hose and GM trans fluid. Maybe even new shifter cables.
The Comptech short shifter achieves it's throws by increasing the shift side of the fulcrum and reducing the distance the lever side has to travel. However, this reduces the mechanical advantage of the lever side of the fulcrum. By having the shifter knob lower (by being countersunk) it reduces the advantage even further and makes the lever side of the fulcrum even shorter. Shift knob websites say that the larger knob allows for more kinetic energy, what they don't mention is that it takes more energy to actually get it in motion compared to a lighter one, lol but that's really splitting hairs. People buy different knobs because they like they way they look aesthetically.
If I had to do it all over again on my TL I would get the K-tuned assembly, it changes the gate mechanism entirely and allows you to customize the throw. I run their shift lever in my Integra and absolutely love it, along with a beefed up and modified shift change assembly that is inside the transmission and is responsible for moving the the gear forks.
I vote for a Ktuned shift assembly, check valve delete plus ss hose and GM trans fluid. Maybe even new shifter cables.
Skip a weighted shifter? No way.
After incrementally going up in weight from various OEM knobs to progressively heavier knobs, I have to say that adding weight to your shifter is extremely pleasing and makes shifting a lot more fun and effortless. Pay attention to the weight and go up or down according to your preferences. Years ago I started with a bronzed JDM Accord Euro-R CL1 shift knob that weighed 150g and it was nice. A handful of shift knobs later I'm using the countersunk Maven by Fastline Performance that weighs 472g and it's perfect (aesthetics, texture, shape, etc.). Would I like a heavier knob? Maybe, but this one is the bees knees. Highly recommended you experiment with shift knobs in combination with other shifting mods like bushings, short shifter, etc.
Is the OEM 6 speed shift knob nice? Yea, but needs moar grams.
After incrementally going up in weight from various OEM knobs to progressively heavier knobs, I have to say that adding weight to your shifter is extremely pleasing and makes shifting a lot more fun and effortless. Pay attention to the weight and go up or down according to your preferences. Years ago I started with a bronzed JDM Accord Euro-R CL1 shift knob that weighed 150g and it was nice. A handful of shift knobs later I'm using the countersunk Maven by Fastline Performance that weighs 472g and it's perfect (aesthetics, texture, shape, etc.). Would I like a heavier knob? Maybe, but this one is the bees knees. Highly recommended you experiment with shift knobs in combination with other shifting mods like bushings, short shifter, etc.
Is the OEM 6 speed shift knob nice? Yea, but needs moar grams.
#20
Instructor
Weighted knobs are more of gimmick to sell a really shiny piece of metal with weight at a higher prices. I admit I bought into it at first before I thought about it for a little. I had the Countersunk Mavin shift knob I bought it because I liked the way it looked, I sold it a while back.
The Comptech short shifter achieves it's throws by increasing the shift side of the fulcrum and reducing the distance the lever side has to travel. However, this reduces the mechanical advantage of the lever side of the fulcrum. By having the shifter knob lower (by being countersunk) it reduces the advantage even further and makes the lever side of the fulcrum even shorter. Shift knob websites say that the larger knob allows for more kinetic energy, what they don't mention is that it takes more energy to actually get it in motion compared to a lighter one, lol but that's really splitting hairs. People buy different knobs because they like they way they look aesthetically.
So what you're really saying is people with weighted knobs are or should eventually be in better shape?
#21
Burning Brakes
I think we both agreed that it was personal preference, I stated my preference. I also think it's like driving around with your hand resting on the shift knob.
How you like your knob is your personal preference Maybe go around and ask people if you can sit in their car and feel their knob? lol
How you like your knob is your personal preference Maybe go around and ask people if you can sit in their car and feel their knob? lol
Unequivocally disagree. Not even close to a gimmick unless you're spending car notes on them, and even then it's based on your own individual budget and specific aesthetic and kinetic preferences.
A heavier item requires more energy to move vs. something lighter? Tell me more
So what you're really saying is people with weighted knobs are or should eventually be in better shape?
A heavier item requires more energy to move vs. something lighter? Tell me more
So what you're really saying is people with weighted knobs are or should eventually be in better shape?
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (03-29-2017)
#22
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
heavier shift knobs are sold based on increasing mass thereby increasing momentum (mass*velocity). it's meant to make shifts easier and smoother, to me it makes sense. but yes it's personal preference which one you like (heavy vs light). i am 100% behind heavier is better. that being said, too heavy can be bad also since it takes more effort to bring the shifter arm back to neutral and through the gears, especially if you don't have smooth transitions into the gear gates.
that k tuned shifter arm looks phenomenal...i really wish it was available when i was doing all my 6mt mods! if i eventually make this car my autocross car or similar, i would definitely spring for that
haha!
i know you have those mods on your to-do list...just do what i did and make your to-do list happen now lol, jk! but yea my car feels rock solid, i love the way it handles and performs now (my wife probably not so much)
that k tuned shifter arm looks phenomenal...i really wish it was available when i was doing all my 6mt mods! if i eventually make this car my autocross car or similar, i would definitely spring for that
i know you have those mods on your to-do list...just do what i did and make your to-do list happen now lol, jk! but yea my car feels rock solid, i love the way it handles and performs now (my wife probably not so much)
Last edited by sockr1; 03-05-2017 at 08:36 PM.
#23
Instructor
I would love that shifter
#24
Burning Brakes
Thats my opinion or 2 cents, hence the lulz. We agree that it's personal preference and it's whatever the OP wants to buy, my opinions are worth as much as you pay for them
OP, skip the countersunk knob if you do get the weighted shift knob, larger levels are where it's at.
OP, skip the countersunk knob if you do get the weighted shift knob, larger levels are where it's at.
This comment, "Weighted knobs are more of gimmick to sell a really shiny piece of metal with weight at a higher prices. I admit I bought into it at first" is a preference? Lol, right. Few enthusiasts want a feather-weight shifter that falls into place with a small push. Considering the TL is a "luxury" sports sedan, I can see why OEM feels that way, but it seriously lacks tactile feedback and oomph. Preference for sure though
#25
Actually, if the TL DBW (Drive by Wire) settings in the stock tune are anything like they were in my '11 Accord 6-6, the best mod you can do BY FAR is turn off Overrun Throttle Compensation and reduce Fuel Cut Delay from the OEM setting of 100. I'm at 20/30 depending on the gear.
#26
Transmission Pro
It is unfortunate that there are so many replies to this thread, when I don't see where one person makes mention of internal transmission components that actually effect this sort of thing.
OP, how many miles do you have on your car/transmission?
I've got 4 transmission builds for my clients/customers right now.
OP, how many miles do you have on your car/transmission?
I've got 4 transmission builds for my clients/customers right now.
#27
Transmission Pro
Weighted knobs are more of gimmick to sell a really shiny piece of metal with weight at a higher prices. I admit I bought into it at first before I thought about it for a little. I had the Countersunk Mavin shift knob I bought it because I liked the way it looked, I sold it a while back.
The Comptech short shifter achieves it's throws by increasing the shift side of the fulcrum and reducing the distance the lever side has to travel. However, this reduces the mechanical advantage of the lever side of the fulcrum. By having the shifter knob lower (by being countersunk) it reduces the advantage even further and makes the lever side of the fulcrum even shorter. Shift knob websites say that the larger knob allows for more kinetic energy, what they don't mention is that it takes more energy to actually get it in motion compared to a lighter one, lol but that's really splitting hairs. People buy different knobs because they like they way they look aesthetically.
If I had to do it all over again on my TL I would get the K-tuned assembly, it changes the gate mechanism entirely and allows you to customize the throw. I run their shift lever in my Integra and absolutely love it, along with a beefed up and modified shift change assembly that is inside the transmission and is responsible for moving the the gear forks.
I vote for a Ktuned shift assembly, check valve delete plus ss hose and GM trans fluid. Maybe even new shifter cables.
The Comptech short shifter achieves it's throws by increasing the shift side of the fulcrum and reducing the distance the lever side has to travel. However, this reduces the mechanical advantage of the lever side of the fulcrum. By having the shifter knob lower (by being countersunk) it reduces the advantage even further and makes the lever side of the fulcrum even shorter. Shift knob websites say that the larger knob allows for more kinetic energy, what they don't mention is that it takes more energy to actually get it in motion compared to a lighter one, lol but that's really splitting hairs. People buy different knobs because they like they way they look aesthetically.
If I had to do it all over again on my TL I would get the K-tuned assembly, it changes the gate mechanism entirely and allows you to customize the throw. I run their shift lever in my Integra and absolutely love it, along with a beefed up and modified shift change assembly that is inside the transmission and is responsible for moving the the gear forks.
I vote for a Ktuned shift assembly, check valve delete plus ss hose and GM trans fluid. Maybe even new shifter cables.
That is stupid and unnecessary, and an inefficient way for the ECU to determine which gear is engaged. The ECU knows RPM and it knows vehicle speed. Even if the ECU weren't able to determine this, a small, simple PLC could be made that polls VSS and RPM signals to provide this information. I would be VERY surprised if those fancy AEM ECUs didn't have the ability to do this.
And even still, none of that is going to do a single thing other than make you wear out the brass synchronizers more quickly. That's all marketing nonsense. KTuned shifters are on par with something like those $4000 stainless steel Omega watches.
#28
Burning Brakes
It is unfortunate that there are so many replies to this thread, when I don't see where one person makes mention of internal transmission components that actually effect this sort of thing.
OP, how many miles do you have on your car/transmission?
I've got 4 transmission builds for my clients/customers right now.
OP, how many miles do you have on your car/transmission?
I've got 4 transmission builds for my clients/customers right now.
The K-Tuned "Shifter Assembly" is quite possibly the most unnecessarily over-engineered shifter assembly that I have ever seen in my entire life. For $1400 you can buy a shifter assembly and wire in a sensor so that the ECU can know which gear you are in.
That is stupid and unnecessary, and an inefficient way for the ECU to determine which gear is engaged. The ECU knows RPM and it knows vehicle speed. Even if the ECU weren't able to determine this, a small, simple PLC could be made that polls VSS and RPM signals to provide this information. I would be VERY surprised if those fancy AEM ECUs didn't have the ability to do this.
And even still, none of that is going to do a single thing other than make you wear out the brass synchronizers more quickly. That's all marketing nonsense. KTuned shifters are on par with something like those $4000 stainless steel Omega watches.
That is stupid and unnecessary, and an inefficient way for the ECU to determine which gear is engaged. The ECU knows RPM and it knows vehicle speed. Even if the ECU weren't able to determine this, a small, simple PLC could be made that polls VSS and RPM signals to provide this information. I would be VERY surprised if those fancy AEM ECUs didn't have the ability to do this.
And even still, none of that is going to do a single thing other than make you wear out the brass synchronizers more quickly. That's all marketing nonsense. KTuned shifters are on par with something like those $4000 stainless steel Omega watches.
#29
Transmission Pro
I would recommend internals as well but I haven't seen anything for the J series trans related to gear change selectors. I've upgraded internals in my Integra, you can go nuts with B series transmissions.
umm they are $400 for the standard assemblies... This $1400 you mention is for a race application with a non synchronized transmission i.e. dog box. It's an alternative to strain gauges for no lift shifts. You know that Flashpro with the TL allows you to see what gear your in, not that it really matters. I have a video in which you can see this: https://youtu.be/t5XFSUkJMyo
umm they are $400 for the standard assemblies... This $1400 you mention is for a race application with a non synchronized transmission i.e. dog box. It's an alternative to strain gauges for no lift shifts. You know that Flashpro with the TL allows you to see what gear your in, not that it really matters. I have a video in which you can see this: https://youtu.be/t5XFSUkJMyo
Why the crap are people using strain gauges to determine which gear is engaged? I haven't talked about strain gauges since sophomore year ME lab when we were in the mechanics of materials module, plotting stress/strain curves based off the values we recorded in the tensile tests.
Just because it's better than something that's poorly designed, doesn't mean that it's a good design.
Those aren't for dog boxes. Who actually has a dog box and wants to use some ridiculous H-pattern shifter? Dog boxes are usually some sort of sequential shifter. Think paddle shifters..
I don't even understand why people would even try to strengthen these internal shifter mechanisms. My only speculation is that they do not understand how all the other parts within the transmission are working together. Because what these components are actually doing is just allowing you to slam gears harder and faster.
This does not provide better acceleration, it just wears the synchros out prematurely because you're forcing the brass blocker rings onto the synchro cones more violently. It's stupid.
Although I guess I should be thankful for it. Because then that leaves more people that will need their transmissions rebuilt.
#30
Burning Brakes
Again, all of that is absolutely overkill. I would use the word engineer, but I don't seem to get the impression that an actual mechanical engineer designed it, but rather a machinist. (There's a HUGE difference.)
Why the crap are people using strain gauges to determine which gear is engaged? I haven't talked about strain gauges since sophomore year ME lab when we were in the mechanics of materials module, plotting stress/strain curves based off the values we recorded in the tensile tests.
Just because it's better than something that's poorly designed, doesn't mean that it's a good design.
Those aren't for dog boxes. Who actually has a dog box and wants to use some ridiculous H-pattern shifter? Dog boxes are usually some sort of sequential shifter. Think paddle shifters..
I don't even understand why people would even try to strengthen these internal shifter mechanisms. My only speculation is that they do not understand how all the other parts within the transmission are working together. Because what these components are actually doing is just allowing you to slam gears harder and faster.
This does not provide better acceleration, it just wears the synchros out prematurely because you're forcing the brass blocker rings onto the synchro cones more violently. It's stupid.
Although I guess I should be thankful for it. Because then that leaves more people that will need their transmissions rebuilt.
Why the crap are people using strain gauges to determine which gear is engaged? I haven't talked about strain gauges since sophomore year ME lab when we were in the mechanics of materials module, plotting stress/strain curves based off the values we recorded in the tensile tests.
Just because it's better than something that's poorly designed, doesn't mean that it's a good design.
Those aren't for dog boxes. Who actually has a dog box and wants to use some ridiculous H-pattern shifter? Dog boxes are usually some sort of sequential shifter. Think paddle shifters..
I don't even understand why people would even try to strengthen these internal shifter mechanisms. My only speculation is that they do not understand how all the other parts within the transmission are working together. Because what these components are actually doing is just allowing you to slam gears harder and faster.
This does not provide better acceleration, it just wears the synchros out prematurely because you're forcing the brass blocker rings onto the synchro cones more violently. It's stupid.
Although I guess I should be thankful for it. Because then that leaves more people that will need their transmissions rebuilt.
The whole strain gauge thing is going over your head, it's to tell the ecu when to cut power during a shift. The gauge is used to indicate the start and end of a shift. The non synchro engagement although fast, needs a power cut to allow engagement of the next gear. The driver doesn't need to lift because using the strain gauge. The ecu knows when a gear change is occurring and reduced engine output during the resistance change of the strain gauge.
As far as H-pattern shifting it comes down the class rules and budgets. I think a B series trans sequential is $13k while a gear set is in the $4k to $7k range.
Have you looked at a B series shift change assembly? It's stampings not a machined piece, the manufacturer modifies it by adding reinforcements to stiffen the stampings. Then adds a stiffer spring to improve the the shifter movement when not in one of the detents for a selected gear.
Human error causes the most damage like most thing is life, lol.