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Ordered this actuator last night. The stiffer spring should help with yhe boost tapering. From what im hearing the canister that came with the turbo isnt strong enought to hold the wastegate closed. Especially with a higher displacement engine. And soon a boost controller for even more consistent boost levels
I hope we get the waste gate actuator today so we can continue tuning, I'm ready to turn the boost up and have some fun
Good man, waiting to see what numbers are you guys able to come out with and how that AT reacts to the power, BTW did you by chance took any pics on how you fit the trans oil cooler?
Good man, waiting to see what numbers are you guys able to come out with and how that AT reacts to the power, BTW did you by chance took any pics on how you fit the trans oil cooler?
We just used the little clips that came with the kit, they went through the AC condenser, with a piece of foam at the corners to keep the 2 cores from rubbing against each other.
Got the new wastegate actuator on and now im holding the boost a little better.
im peaking at 8 psi, still drop to about 5.5 ish. but thats ok i'd rather it drop a bit than have it creep up as im climbing. and look at these numbers.
Looks like wheel spin to me that's what my car looks like on the Edyno when I get a little wheel spin at higher speeds yeah wheel spin at 70 MPH gotta love it LOL
Ordered this actuator last night. The stiffer spring should help with yhe boost tapering. From what im hearing the canister that came with the turbo isnt strong enought to hold the wastegate closed. Especially with a higher displacement engine. And soon a boost controller for even more consistent boost levels
I was looking at using the EFR8374 like you did but seen that you had some boost controller and wastegate issues got me reconsidering. In your opinion do you think the savings in fabrication and space are worth spending the 2200 on this turbo knowing the issues that you ran into or would it make more sense to go with a different model or even a different brand?
I was looking at using the EFR8374 like you did but seen that you had some boost controller and wastegate issues got me reconsidering. In your opinion do you think the savings in fabrication and space are worth spending the 2200 on this turbo knowing the issues that you ran into or would it make more sense to go with a different model or even a different brand?
i would stay with the efr still. the boost dropping a couple lb is the only issue ive ran into with this turbo. i think its meant to be used with a boost controller. which i dont have yet. this thing spools up almost too quick and is still free flowing. for a J35, the 8374 is just about prerfect. i start spooling at about 2500 rpm, hit boost just about 3000 and 8 lb at 3300-3500 and its only 8 lb cause the wastegate opens then. i dont know how many other turbos feel. but this one feels fast as hell.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bxo1ueg3P3M
heres the last pull I did. The roads have been too wet to do them for now
The afr target has been 11.3 ish to 12 under boost this pull was 3rd gear from 2000-3500 rpm
Your speedometer wasn't plugged in?
Originally Posted by KN_TL
We all started on stock internals and I think just about everyone ended up breaking something.
Maybe Utah-TypeS will be the first to nail their tune, but it doesn't take much to cross the limit.
Isn't Gerzand running almost 500whp supercharged, and before that on nitrous? Is he on stock internals? I believe the drivetrain is still all stock, which is incredible.
I was looking at using the EFR8374 like you did but seen that you had some boost controller and wastegate issues got me reconsidering. In your opinion do you think the savings in fabrication and space are worth spending the 2200 on this turbo knowing the issues that you ran into or would it make more sense to go with a different model or even a different brand?
You can get this turbo for about $1,700 shop around, the EFR is a super heavy duty long lasting state of the art turbo, the spool up is insanely fast for this large of a turbo, well worth the money IMO, we are just starting to get this thing dialed in, the boost drop is just a matter of getting the right wastegate spring pressure and maybe adding a electronic boost controller to get it perfectly stable, the lower the boost level the harder it is to controll if we were running 20PSI it would be much easier
Very cool! I'm glad to see your engine still holding up well. Hopefully you don't run into the issues I had.
thank you. im trusting Vit on the tune completely. and so far i havnt had an issue. none the less it is scary every time i turn it up a bit.
hope the re-build is going well on your end
thank you. im trusting Vit on the tune completely. and so far i havnt had an issue. none the less it is scary every time i turn it up a bit.
hope the re-build is going well on your end
Vit definitely seems to be doing a great job with your tune. I may be contacting him in the near future.
The rebuild is finishing up, the bottom end is reassembled. They were working on the top end today. After that they are installing the water/meth injection and then a retune. I'm hoping it'll be done next Wednesday.
It's interesting to see the difference in spool time between your set-up and mine (when it worked...). I can't wait to get my car back, I'm in turbo withdrawal
Last edited by maddogtheta; 01-29-2015 at 09:29 PM.
Reason: added text
This EFR turbo is nuts if you look at the flashpro screen shot above you can see it takes only 2 seconds after punching it to go from vacuum to 8 LBS, it just plants you in the seat instantly and this is a .92 AR housing AMAZING RESPONSE
I can't wait to get my car back, I'm in turbo withdrawal
I know the feeling all too well, lol
Originally Posted by UTAH TSX
This EFR turbo is nuts if you look at the flashpro screen shot above you can see it takes only 2 seconds after punching it to go from vacuum to 8 LBS, it just plants you in the seat instantly and this is a .92 AR housing AMAZING RESPONSE
If you think it spools fast as is, you should see what I've done in the past with the EFR's using a proper EWG setup. I can bring full boost in a full 1000 rpm sooner. The IWG housings are very lazy in respect to the EWG housings (Treadstone makes some EWG housings).
Check out green vs purple from a few Civic's I did ages ago
AT trans always screws with eDyno graphs (torque convertor mostly), I don't use them as the ultimate source of truth, but they're a good idea of how things have been progressing -- the overall graph keeps shifting up as we've improved the tune and increased boost.
So i was driving home after work. I start hearing a lot of audible knock. First thought was it was a rocker arm that came loose or broke. So i opened up the valve cover and checked the clearances. Nothing, one of them was a bit tight, so I adjusted it, and that was that, still making noise. My dad remembered that the timing belt tensioner going bad and flapping back and fourth makes that same noise. So we replaced it and the belt and..........nope still making the noise. so i drop the oil pan and find this.
Pistons one and three are gone. What used to be the skirts is now shrapnel at the bottom of my oil pan.
Here is cylinder one.
Luckily the cylinder walls are unscathed. Time for me to save up and get some new pistons made.
Im going to shoot for close to stock C/R still, maybe a little bit less.
If anyone is wondering why these pistons are constantly breaking even with little to no boost.
Here is a piston my dad had laying around from one of his old race cars.
Notice the difference in thickness? Even on the thinnest part of his piston, there is still 20-30% more material (i may be being dramatic). I know its hard to tell from the pic, but the material FEELS weaker too. Like some kind of cheap cast metal.
Last edited by UTAH Type-S; 02-08-2015 at 09:25 PM.
Well crap, that's not something I wanted to see happen. The info I had on these motors is they were built "lightweight for economy" appears to be an unfortunate fact
Well crap, that's not something I wanted to see happen. The info I had on these motors is they were built "lightweight for economy" appears to be an unfortunate fact
It would appear so. Hopefully pistons should be all I need. I plan on keeping the boost at the same level. Even with built pistons.
It would appear so. Hopefully pistons should be all I need. I plan on keeping the boost at the same level. Even with built pistons.
Let me know what the rest of the remaining portions of the failing pistons look like -- and the rest of them as well (maybe others have stress fractures already, ready to go as well?).
I know the rods on the motor aren't very strong, I was honestly expecting you to lose a rod before a piston fell apart...
01-17-2015, 03:39 PM
I do not wish it upon anyone
You can race in the winter months.. Ice RallyX and Road America's winter AutoX.
