Type S turbo build, remote mount

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Old 01-06-2015, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by yungone501
Werd.

If you can, let me know what he tunes the AFRs to under WOT boost. Vit was the first one to discover that there was a flaw in Flashpro during the cat warm up phase of the factory tables and how they would cause AFRs to be inconsistent until a set coolant temp was reached. Hondata followed up by adding a disable feature. Wish I knew about this when running into what appeared to be a 15lb threshold....
You are talking about the cat protection? That was on the Hondata thread? The ECU adjust AFR to run relatively rich to cool down the EGT to cool down the cats so they don't get destroyed.. but since your car doesn't have cat(s) to protect this protection can be disabled .

It's not a flaw, just a safe guard for OEM equipment
Old 01-07-2015, 02:54 AM
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update, ive been etuning with vit since yesterday, just barely started using the high cam profile. things are going good so far. havent gone over 4lb yet but its still oh so satisfying to hear and feel her spool up
Old 01-07-2015, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 6spd-GERCO
You are talking about the cat protection? That was on the Hondata thread? The ECU adjust AFR to run relatively rich to cool down the EGT to cool down the cats so they don't get destroyed.. but since your car doesn't have cat(s) to protect this protection can be disabled .

It's not a flaw, just a safe guard for OEM equipment
Its been disabled already. Checked the calibration this morning after reading this
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:31 PM
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That's good! Thankfully Vit has a lot of pull with Hondata and can get them to help us out. Vit's got more stroke then the average Joe when it comes to Hondata. I was just a little miffed that the issue was described as a flaw.

Very exticed to see how this thing progresses through the tune. Do you have any video of the car with everything attached?
Old 01-07-2015, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by UTAH Type-S
Its been disabled already. Checked the calibration this morning after reading this
Where in the calibration can I check to see if this is turned off on my tune as well?
Old 01-07-2015, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 6spd-GERCO
That's good! Thankfully Vit has a lot of pull with Hondata and can get them to help us out. Vit's got more stroke then the average Joe when it comes to Hondata. I was just a little miffed that the issue was described as a flaw.

Very exticed to see how this thing progresses through the tune. Do you have any video of the car with everything attached?
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:31 PM
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:40 PM
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Thank you for posting the video, I hope to see more! That's a very nice install, top notch. Quick question, is that your wide band on the front bank manifold or one of the stock ones?
Old 01-08-2015, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 6spd-GERCO
Thank you for posting the video, I hope to see more! That's a very nice install, top notch. Quick question, is that your wide band on the front bank manifold or one of the stock ones?
Its a stock one. The wide band is on the down pipe. under that red vavume box..... you can kinda see it in that picture in the video link
Old 01-08-2015, 10:40 AM
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@UTAH-TYPE S

Can you tell me where you got the radiator tubing? Was that custom bent or an off the shelf item?

Thanks!
Old 01-08-2015, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
@UTAH-TYPE S

Can you tell me where you got the radiator tubing? Was that custom bent or an off the shelf item?

Thanks!
my dad just bought a u bend and cut it in the middle-ish flipped one end around so it made a perfect s shape to go over the pipe, then welded around the ends to help keep the couplers on
Old 01-08-2015, 09:10 PM
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I was just curious what your cranking fuel trim is set at? I have been having issues with my car taking a long time on cold starts.
Old 01-09-2015, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by maddogtheta
I was just curious what your cranking fuel trim is set at? I have been having issues with my car taking a long time on cold starts.
That will very from car to car, sometimes drastically. His settings probably wouldn't help you... you have to tune those settings appropriately for your vehicle.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by UTAH Type-S
update, ive been etuning with vit since yesterday, just barely started using the high cam profile. things are going good so far. havent gone over 4lb yet but its still oh so satisfying to hear and feel her spool up
How much power do you really want? The turbo is tapering to 2.5-3lbs up top and you're STILL pulling these kind of #'s on eDyno. Through an auto. WTF, gotta love displacement. lol

Disregard the crap below 3500, that's your AT doing fun things.


A stock TL is usually like 240 on eDyno? A bolt on one is ~270? With a manual...
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by screaminz28
Exactly why it should be zeroed out completely. The TL (and TSX I think) have a knock control method that is not made to detect instant knock, but is more of an octane determiner. The knock control tables should be zeroed out and all timing should be set by the timing maps. Without doing that, I think around 8 degrees of timing can be ADDED by the knock control tables. If the car is tuned properly on the fuel that is going to be used, ideally you wouldn't have a range of 8 degrees, since you would tune it to max power without detonation, and maybe back it down a degree or two. An extra 8 degrees on top of that would not be good.
No modern Honda ECU has active knock logic. Granted you've got the general idea, but KIL being zero'd out doesn't really solve the problem as the KIL tables are actually dynamic in the ECU, what you see in the tables are only a baseline. I've watched the ECU take and drift KIL and up and down on it's own, which can have drastic repercussions to your timing map (and how your motor runs). The ecu logic will never add more timing than in the main ignition tables, however. Something to keep in mind.

Top that off with the fact the IAT compensations run against KIL and not your primary ignition tables, you can have a failure on an F/I vehicle very quick moving from cold -> hot extremes. It brings up some very interesting things to think about when working on the new generation of Honda/Acura.


BTW, on the Si platforms, we don't have to deal with this BS. I got Hondata to give us proper control with enough bitching and moaning lol (the fact it's the highest selling FP helps).

Last edited by VitViper; 01-09-2015 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by VitViper
No modern Honda ECU has active knock logic. Granted you've got the general idea, but KIL being zero'd out doesn't really solve the problem as the KIL tables are actually dynamic in the ECU, what you see in the tables are only a baseline. I've watched the ECU take and drift KIL and up and down on it's own, which can have drastic repercussions to your timing map (and how your motor runs). The ecu logic will never add more timing than in the main ignition tables, however. Something to keep in mind.

Top that off with the fact the IAT compensations run against KIL and not your primary ignition tables, you can have a failure on an F/I vehicle very quick moving from cold -> hot extremes. It brings up some very interesting things to think about when working on the new generation of Honda/Acura.


BTW, on the Si platforms, we don't have to deal with this BS. I got Hondata to give us proper control with enough bitching and moaning lol (the fact it's the highest selling FP helps).
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Old 01-10-2015, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by VitViper
No modern Honda ECU has active knock logic. Granted you've got the general idea, but KIL being zero'd out doesn't really solve the problem as the KIL tables are actually dynamic in the ECU, what you see in the tables are only a baseline. I've watched the ECU take and drift KIL and up and down on it's own, which can have drastic repercussions to your timing map (and how your motor runs). The ecu logic will never add more timing than in the main ignition tables, however. Something to keep in mind.

Top that off with the fact the IAT compensations run against KIL and not your primary ignition tables, you can have a failure on an F/I vehicle very quick moving from cold -> hot extremes. It brings up some very interesting things to think about when working on the new generation of Honda/Acura.


BTW, on the Si platforms, we don't have to deal with this BS. I got Hondata to give us proper control with enough bitching and moaning lol (the fact it's the highest selling FP helps).
Hey Vit, thanks for chiming in. I'm not disagreeing, but trying to better understand. You say that the "ecu logic will never add more timing than the main ignition tables."

Is that the case with ALL Flashpros, the SI, the TL, or what? I ask because the Flashpro help even says in the knock control info:

The normal ignition tables contain MBT ignition advance values

and

The ignition timing calculation is:

Ignition advance = minimum(MBT Ignition, MBT Ignition + knock ignition limit - (knock retard x knock control))


and

Caution should be exercised when changing the knock ignition limit table - if any negative values are increased (ie made closer to zero or made positive), then the ECU will advance the ignition by that amount.

Those statements are where I get confused. Either it can or cannot run more timing than the main ignition table (which by Hondata's definition is MBT ignition, and tuned on a very high octane fuel).

Since we are in the process of REALLY tuning the engine, and not a general idea for multiple fuels, should you not then zero out the KIL and the tuner tweak the MBT table for the fuel that is to be used. Once complete, you could back it down a couple degrees and then add them back to the KIL table, right?

It also states: Knock ignition limit - use low values where the engine is likely to knock. For forced induction engines on pump fuel we can assume they are tuned to the edge of knock, so columns 9 to 10 and should be 5 degrees or less, and columns in boost should be zero. Note that you should always adjust the main ignition tables if increasing values in the knock ignition limit table.

All those cumulative statements lead me to believe that the observed timing could and most likely at times WILL be higher than the main timing map. Am I on an old version of Flashpro that doesn't have that stuff revised or disabled?

Last edited by screaminz28; 01-10-2015 at 04:16 AM. Reason: added
Old 01-10-2015, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by VitViper
No modern Honda ECU has active knock logic. Granted you've got the general idea, but KIL being zero'd out doesn't really solve the problem as the KIL tables are actually dynamic in the ECU, what you see in the tables are only a baseline. I've watched the ECU take and drift KIL and up and down on it's own, which can have drastic repercussions to your timing map (and how your motor runs). The ecu logic will never add more timing than in the main ignition tables, however. Something to keep in mind.

Top that off with the fact the IAT compensations run against KIL and not your primary ignition tables, you can have a failure on an F/I vehicle very quick moving from cold -> hot extremes. It brings up some very interesting things to think about when working on the new generation of Honda/Acura.


BTW, on the Si platforms, we don't have to deal with this BS. I got Hondata to give us proper control with enough bitching and moaning lol (the fact it's the highest selling FP helps).
Hi Vit, I'm planning on using you once I get my engine finished and when it comes to knock, do you recommend an active solution like a J&S safeguard?
Old 01-12-2015, 06:22 AM
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heres the last pull I did. The roads have been too wet to do them for now
The afr target has been 11.3 ish to 12 under boost this pull was 3rd gear from 2000-3500 rpm
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by UTAH Type-S
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bxo1ueg3P3M
heres the last pull I did. The roads have been too wet to do them for now
The afr target has been 11.3 ish to 12 under boost this pull was 3rd gear from 2000-3500 rpm
Edit: the pull was from 2000-6800 typed that faster than I can think apparently
Old 01-12-2015, 12:24 PM
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Looking good! how much boost were you running?
Old 01-12-2015, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by maddogtheta
Looking good! how much boost were you running?
4lb. Gonna take it slow. Would love to finish tuning so it can be cranked up a bit. But the roads are to wet for that right now
Old 01-12-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by UTAH Type-S
4lb. Gonna take it slow. Would love to finish tuning so it can be cranked up a bit. But the roads are to wet for that right now
Actually 2.5 LBS. it tapers off because the wastegate is set as low as we can go on boost, whats cool is we are makeing over 350 WHP at 6000 RPM with 2 LBS. wait till we turn it up
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by UTAH TSX
Actually 2.5 LBS. it tapers off because the wastegate is set as low as we can go on boost, whats cool is we are makeing over 350 WHP at 6000 RPM with 2 LBS. wait till we turn it up
*shakes uncontrollably in excitement*

I wish I had the knowledge and money to attempt a project like this.
Old 01-12-2015, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by UTAH TSX
Actually 2.5 LBS. it tapers off because the wastegate is set as low as we can go on boost, whats cool is we are makeing over 350 WHP at 6000 RPM with 2 LBS. wait till we turn it up
Great job! I'm fairly new to the forum but I've been following this built for a bit now, I'm planning on doing something similar in the near future with my 07 type S auto. Thanks for all the info you guys are providing. If you don't mind sharing other than the what mods does the car has? Are you running oem imternals?
Old 01-12-2015, 07:46 PM
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Sorry a bit too fast on the fingers, what I meant to ask is, other than the turbo mods does the car has any other mods or was it completely stock before the built?
Old 01-12-2015, 08:02 PM
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We all started on stock internals and I think just about everyone ended up breaking something.

Maybe Utah-TypeS will be the first to nail their tune, but it doesn't take much to cross the limit.
Old 01-12-2015, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
We all started on stock internals and I think just about everyone ended up breaking something.

Maybe Utah-TypeS will be the first to nail their tune, but it doesn't take much to cross the limit.
I heard you Kn_tl btw I'm also following your rebuild, pretty impressive internals you got there, what CR you end up using for your pistons? And what WHP are you aiming for?
Old 01-12-2015, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RD_04TL
I heard you Kn_tl btw I'm also following your rebuild, pretty impressive internals you got there, what CR you end up using for your pistons? And what WHP are you aiming for?
I was looking for the 9's in CR and who knows with power. I'm going to actually measure the combustion chamber and bore to see exactly what the CR is.

I went WAY overboard.....As long as I get someone to tune this correctly, I've got internals that shouldn't have issue with the motor, Tilton twin disc clutch and straight cut 3rd and 4th gears.
Old 01-12-2015, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
I was looking for the 9's in CR and who knows with power. I'm going to actually measure the combustion chamber and bore to see exactly what the CR is.

I went WAY overboard.....As long as I get someone to tune this correctly, I've got internals that shouldn't have issue with the motor, Tilton twin disc clutch and straight cut 3rd and 4th gears.
I know is easier said that done but the way I see it you just went the safest route, I'm planing on going the same way even if it takes a bit longer but just for my peace of mind. I think that if you can get the right tune for that beast you are up for legendary numbers.
Old 01-13-2015, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by RD_04TL
I know is easier said that done but the way I see it you just went the safest route, I'm planing on going the same way even if it takes a bit longer but just for my peace of mind. I think that if you can get the right tune for that beast you are up for legendary numbers.
Be prepared to unload a freighter sized load of cash.....nothing for this platform is easy to find/figure out or cheap.

Not sure if I want to go back and calculate all that I spent on this whole adventure.....
Old 01-13-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
Be prepared to unload a freighter sized load of cash.....nothing for this platform is easy to find/figure out or cheap.

Not sure if I want to go back and calculate all that I spent on this whole adventure.....
You sir are a trailblazer for sure. Heck, I start to cry when I figure out how much you have in it!

Can't wait to see yours once its done.

You ever take a TIG class, or get a welder to make any changes?
Old 01-13-2015, 11:21 AM
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I feel for you KN, all of these piston failures has us on edge, I think we will start saving up for some pistons, rods, valves and springs
Old 01-13-2015, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by screaminz28
You sir are a trailblazer for sure. Heck, I start to cry when I figure out how much you have in it!

Can't wait to see yours once its done.

You ever take a TIG class, or get a welder to make any changes?
Thanks.

No welding classes or welder yet. That's after I get moved and the engine build completed.

Originally Posted by UTAH TSX
I feel for you KN, all of these piston failures has us on edge, I think we will start saving up for some pistons, rods, valves and springs
If you're interested in a set of forged lower compression pistons really cheap, let me know. I probably won't ever use them. Specs are in the other remote turbo thread.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
@UTAH-TYPE S

Can you tell me where you got the radiator tubing? Was that custom bent or an off the shelf item?

Thanks!
Aluminum Pipe
Old 01-14-2015, 01:47 PM
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KN, are you talking 89mm or 90mm bore size?
Old 01-14-2015, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by yungone501
KN, are you talking 89mm or 90mm bore size?
89.0905 (3.5075) to be exact

Just slightly over stock. Was originally able to make the numbers work with a simple hone at the machine shop.

With the CP clearance spec of 0.0889 (.0035") the pistons are 89.0016 (3.504)
Old 01-15-2015, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminz28
Hey Vit, thanks for chiming in. I'm not disagreeing, but trying to better understand. You say that the "ecu logic will never add more timing than the main ignition tables."

Is that the case with ALL Flashpros, the SI, the TL, or what? I ask because the Flashpro help even says in the knock control info:
Yes, to date the ignition/kil logic works the same across all FlashPro platforms. This is Honda's method of determining fuel quality and applying a fixed correction based on the determined fuel qualiyt.

Originally Posted by screaminz28
The normal ignition tables contain MBT ignition advance values

and

The ignition timing calculation is:

Ignition advance = minimum(MBT Ignition, MBT Ignition + knock ignition limit - (knock retard x knock control))
Something to keep in mind when addressing your further questions -- this formula is GOD when it comes to the final ignition timing the ECU runs. The reason for this is the keyword MINIMUM. Keep that in mind any time you read anything relating to the KIL/MBT information in the help file.

Originally Posted by screaminz28
and

Caution should be exercised when changing the knock ignition limit table - if any negative values are increased (ie made closer to zero or made positive), then the ECU will advance the ignition by that amount.

Those statements are where I get confused. Either it can or cannot run more timing than the main ignition table (which by Hondata's definition is MBT ignition, and tuned on a very high octane fuel).
This goes back to the formula: MINIMUM. If your MBT table has a value of say "23" and the KIL formula comes up with "26", which one is the ECU going to run? 23. This makes sense even logically -- if you've reached MBT timing but haven't hit the knock limit, why push to the knock limit? You no longer make any more power...

Originally Posted by screaminz28
Since we are in the process of REALLY tuning the engine, and not a general idea for multiple fuels, should you not then zero out the KIL and the tuner tweak the MBT table for the fuel that is to be used. Once complete, you could back it down a couple degrees and then add them back to the KIL table, right?
Years of working with these platforms has left a bad tasted regarding the KIL logic. It works great on an OEM vehicle that's unmodified -- that's it. Only way to even fathom making it work properly on a modified vehicle is to tune the tables the same way Honda does, which is a realistic impossibility. Unfortunately on most of the FlashPro platforms we have to make do and do as much as we can -- but KIL doesn't work like what you're thinking with that method (IE, remove 2* from MBT and put 2* into KIL... won't even be remotely close to a 1:1 transition because of the rest of the logic).

Originally Posted by screaminz28
It also states: Knock ignition limit - use low values where the engine is likely to knock. For forced induction engines on pump fuel we can assume they are tuned to the edge of knock, so columns 9 to 10 and should be 5 degrees or less, and columns in boost should be zero. Note that you should always adjust the main ignition tables if increasing values in the knock ignition limit table.
This ties into my statement above -- that method doesn't work very well, and especially on noisy motors will end up running the engine somewhat unpredictable on the street -- the method works OK on the dyno, but once you get out to real conditions I've been watching the KIL logic drift back and forth, even with no knock at all. Random noise has been seen to set off the knock sensor, which has had some pretty funny results in the past (lol).

I really don't want to go too deep into this discussion publicly as almost no one in the industry understands the logic, and I'm not keen on helping them understand it.

Originally Posted by screaminz28
All those cumulative statements lead me to believe that the observed timing could and most likely at times WILL be higher than the main timing map. Am I on an old version of Flashpro that doesn't have that stuff revised or disabled?
[/quote]

Observed timing will never be greater than the MBT tables. The formula above simply does not allow it -- nor should it. Good way to observe this is to watch your ignition timing on a stock map at part throttle/low load (say below 40kpa).

Originally Posted by KN_TL
Hi Vit, I'm planning on using you once I get my engine finished and when it comes to knock, do you recommend an active solution like a J&S safeguard?
Not sure how well the system would get along with the OEM ECU... typically piggyback type control items like to battle the ECU for control (ecu asks for one thing, doesn't get it, goes huh?).
Old 01-15-2015, 09:09 PM
  #279  
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Great build so about how much in the build already if you don't mind me asking
Old 01-16-2015, 06:51 AM
  #280  
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^ you dont want to know. Trust me....I dont want to know


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