AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Hello all,

Looking to replace my factory clutch in my 2007 TLS. What exact parts and part numbers would I need if I were to call Acura or order them online?

Im debating whether or not to go with the OEM route or upgrade to the Clutch Masters FX100 or FX300. If I were to go the Clutch Masters route, which would everyone recommend, the 100 or 300?

Also would resurfacing my flywheel be sufficient or should I just replace that with OEM parts as well...

Thanks everyone!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

replace the flywheel unless you know a mechanic that knows how to resurface a dual-mass flywheel.

go with XLR8 kit.

joel903

iTrader: (1)

If you're replacing your stock clutch cause its worn out from miles and use then I would just replace it with a oem unit. If you're replacing the oem unit in it now cause its slipping from your car being modified then yes I would upgrade to a aftermarket stronger clutch to handle the added HP.

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Car only has 60k miles on it so im thinking its because of the added power the car has now.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

LOL.

no added bolt ons will burn the factory clutch.
member Hi Speed used his factory clutch with his super charger, pushing 350whp.

Its your driving habits sir

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

Exactly.

i'm running about 45 whp over stock and at 75k miles my clutch grabs like a pro. Granted I never rip it off the line or rev like a tool, but I do give it a lot of WOT action on the freeway and it always holds the power just fine. In fact a buddy of mine with a bone stock 6mt type-s complains every time he's in my car about how much harder my clutch grabs than his, lol.

I mean hell even when I finish my NA build at probably 340-350 the only reason I'd look to aftermarket clutch would be for the option to get a lightweight flywheel, and even then I'd only do it when my OEM clutch burns out.

I'd definitely stick with OEM.

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

I just bought the car so I highly doubt it has been my driving habits. Only put a few thousand miles on it since ive gotten it. It felt funny when i purchased it, but figured I just wasnt use to the new clutch yet.

I plan for the car to have 350whp when im all finished with it NA. I will eventually look at the route of a S/C so i may just go clutch masters just in preparation.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

what are your plans to get you to 350?

and we can safely assume that the previous owner fuccked up your clutch and not the bolt ons

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Current mods are PCDs, Jpipe, XLR8 Catback, AEM CAI. Need to install PnP runners, ZDX TB, 3.7L Manifold, and ordered Hondata, all just needs to be installed. Will be going with Bisi State 2 cams and ported headwork shortly down the road.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

2007 base TL? Or are you running a type-s?

without a type-s 6mt you're gonna have a hard time hitting 350 NA even if you raised the compression in addition to everything else you've detailed - sounds like you aren't going to raised compression because (presumably) you sound like you're going for boost long-term anyway.

Your build plans make sense for sure, but I think 350 is way too optimistic if it's a 2007 base.

either way I'll be interested to see how it develops as I'm going for a straight NA build with higher compression and no plans for boost then, obviously.

I think the more TL's we can get with strong builds and tuning will be good for the community.

mynameisraj

OP says it's a Type-S in the thread title/first post.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

god dammit I was just looking by his avatar where it says "2007 Acura TL", lol.

point noted!

I also just realized that I completely disregarded that this entire thread was about CLUTCHES, lol. so obviously he's running type-s 6mt given thread title.

Carry on, people, I'm just being a retard.

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Haha all good, we all have our off moments.

And If I were to go to an aftermarket clutch, how beneficial would a light weight flywheel be? I may just go aftermarket clutch and keep the stock flywheel for now due to the fact that its another $700 and id rather have the Hondata installed and tuned haha.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

i would totally go with a lightweight flywheel. Even at acuraoemparts.com you're gonna pay 600+ for a new OEM flywheel, and it isn't recommended that you have your original flywheel machined unless you have somebody who really knows how to work with a dual-mass flywheel.

At that point you may as well go lightweight IMO.

That's my plan anyway.

But the other side of that is how you are gonna stage your build - for me personally, I'm not getting a new clutch/fw until I'm in the 350 range. Initially, because tuning the j-series is so new, I'm going to start with just a tune with full boltons and 3.7.

Drive that for a bit, then work out PnP and head work, and retune.

If a stable tune can be had out of that, then I'll look at custom cams. I spent a bunch of time looking last night through old threads on the bisi cams and it just made me want to wait a bit because I don't want a regrind given the lack of durability/longevity. I also believe there is a fine line to be drawn on the car to ensure a cam profile both in degree and lift duration keeps good power both low and high rpms.

If I could get specs worked out for a custom cam, I'd be more inclined, and probably AFTER that is when I'd look at aftermarket clutch/FW.

Unless the car is currently slipping, chances are it won't need to be replaced until you get towards 330-350, and even then only under load. It's not gonna slip with normal driving.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

remember, the unsprung OEM clutch doesnt like to play well with a lightened flywheel.
you'll have to buy a sprung clutch + the lightened flywheel

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Guess im just gonna bite the bullet on this one and go for the CM clutch and lightweight flywheel.

Which level clutch do you think would be best for my application? I dont need the highest level race one, as that would be a bit ridiculous since I still plan to drive this thing on the street sometimes.

I was thinking either FX100 or FX300, I think the FX400 would just be overkill... any suggestions?

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

also very true - I forgot to mention that. Important piece of information to know when you are looking at a lightweight flywheel, lol


If the clutchmasters is what you are after, and knowing your plans for the car, I'd probably look at the fx300 then.

jeeva86

Is the OEM clutch a LUK part? Can someone map the OEM part numbers to the company and their model numbers? I think buying it via the company model will work out to be cheaper?

Si_jeff

Is it Luk 08047 for the clutch kit and Luk DMF105 for the flywheel? Seems like rock auto has them in stock , and about under $400 for both, I think this is a really good price for the OEM replacement, the XLR8 kit is $1149 for the daily. I think I might go with the Luk just for price wise even though I do not love the OEM clutch, it is good enough for me .

DMZ

Yes! The LUK parts are the OEM ones without the Honda name on the package, and without the insane OEM prices you get at a stealership. Check rockauto for those prices.
.
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MyGuti

Looking to replace my clutch and flywheel soon as my type-s is still on its original components.
Just had a couple questions before I move forward with the purchase....

1. Besides the dual mass flywheel, clutch disc, release bearings, and pilot bearings, is there anything else I should look into replacing, or typically is replaced during a clutch replacement?

2. Has anyone recently ordered the LUK clutch kit and flywheel through rockauto?

Thanks!

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered a new LuK dual mass flywheel from Rock Auto; no issues with availability. I also ordered a new LuK clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, and pilot tool) from Amazon (I'm a Prime member, and with the free shipping it was a bit cheaper than Rock Auto).

The other three things I ordered for the clutch job were a new batch of ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified (3-quarts), and a rear main seal, and a new LuK clutch slave cylinder which I performed the Clutch Delay Valve delete on and will install with the clutch.

Now, that was just the clutch stuff; given the sub frame needs to come down anyway, I figured it was probably a good idea to buy all new motor and transmission mounts, and new stabilizer bar end links and bushings.

MyGuti

will you be using the throwout bearing from LUK? I read that it was problematic.....and I don't think the Rockauto kit has the pilot bearing.... does it come in the kit from amazon?
also could you link me your amazon link for the LUK clutch kit.
Thanks!

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, haven't heard any negatives regarding the LuK throwout bearing; yes, I'm inclined to use it. No, the LuK kit does not come with a new pilot bearing.

Here's the link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...ilpage_o08_s00

MyGuti

did you end up buying a pilot bearing?

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Nope, may pick one up at a local parts shop prior to the big day.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

By the way, if you opt for a new LuK slave cylinder so you can perform the CDV delete, the procedure is a bit different than with the OEM Aisin slave cylinder. I created a step-by-step on the procedure here:

• https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...linder-967640/