Looking for opinions on transmission, please
01-15-2017, 11:20 AM
#1
Looking for opinions on transmission, please
I have a 2008 TL Base AT that I purchased 7 months ago with 110k. At the time of purchase, I noticed some hard up shifts, lack of smooth downshifts, slow to shift into D and R, etc. I immediately replaced the pressure switches and did a 3x3 flush with OEM fluid. This definitely seemed to improved the overall transmission feel.
Lately, at 115k miles, I've been noticing that the car will hold 2nd or 3rd gear during light acceleration and then drops into the next gear fairly harshly. Also, when traveling uphill, I notice the downshifts aren't very smooth. Still have the delay between shifting from park to D or R, R to D, etc.
So, my question to you all is, is this just how Honda trannys operate? I know that these Honda trannys can be kind of harsh, but given the history of the TL's failures, do you think I am experiencing an impending failure? I know this is difficult/impossible to predict, but does anyone have any thoughts? I'd greatly appreciate hearing them.
I'm just trying to figure out if I should look at selling sooner rather than later.
Lately, at 115k miles, I've been noticing that the car will hold 2nd or 3rd gear during light acceleration and then drops into the next gear fairly harshly. Also, when traveling uphill, I notice the downshifts aren't very smooth. Still have the delay between shifting from park to D or R, R to D, etc.
So, my question to you all is, is this just how Honda trannys operate? I know that these Honda trannys can be kind of harsh, but given the history of the TL's failures, do you think I am experiencing an impending failure? I know this is difficult/impossible to predict, but does anyone have any thoughts? I'd greatly appreciate hearing them.
I'm just trying to figure out if I should look at selling sooner rather than later.
01-15-2017, 11:36 AM
#2
Senior Moderator
The 07/08 transmissions are much better than the older ones, I'm surprised if it would be on its way out. Not impossible, but less than likely. Was there a lot of shavings on the drain plug when you did the detail and fill?
01-15-2017, 11:40 AM
#3
There were definitely some shavings, but certainly not a ton. It's been a while now, but if I had to guess, maybe 25% of the plug was covered? I do remember having to clean the plug, but I could be remembering the quantity.
01-15-2017, 12:50 PM
#4
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the improvements with the 07-08 are what made me comfortable purchasing one, and that's still reassuring, but there also still seems to be people who have had issues nonetheless.
There were definitely some shavings, but certainly not a ton. It's been a while now, but if I had to guess, maybe 25% of the plug was covered? I do remember having to clean the plug, but I could be remembering the quantity.
There were definitely some shavings, but certainly not a ton. It's been a while now, but if I had to guess, maybe 25% of the plug was covered? I do remember having to clean the plug, but I could be remembering the quantity.
01-15-2017, 01:01 PM
#5
I don't know if it is just me, but it feels like all Acura and Honda AT seem to shift a little harsher than other brands. My MDX shifts a little harder than I would like (Never so harsh that it worries me a ton) and sometimes it does give me a slight pause for thought. Keep an eye on it, if it really is bothering you, then dump it, peace of mind has no price in my opinion and I have definitely sold fully functional cars that I was worried about in the past.
As you also alluded to, I suspect that what I'm experiencing is "within normal parameters" for a Honda transmission, but it's still a little unnerving to not know whether its just how it's supposed to work or whether I have a several thousand dollar repair looming over me. For those of us that are slightly anal when it comes to paying attention to every detail with our cars, it can be difficult to discern whats normal and what's abnormal when something's not functioning completely perfectly.
I sold my $50k car and purchased this vehicle in an attempt to be financially responsible- I still think its a very reliable, affordable vehicle that is still a pleasure to drive, but there will always be that nagging concern that if something goes wrong that takes thousands to repair, that I could've spent that money on paying for a vehicle with a warranty (e.g. a cheap lease, etc). Over the long haul, however, this is still the more fiscally responsible move.
01-15-2017, 02:25 PM
#6
Drifting
OP, you still have additional options in terms of replacing solenoids. You should try replacing the following...
1. Shift solenoid C.
2. Pressure A/B solenoids (2 in 1 assy). check for debris under the three small pipes and replace the 3-Orings/gasket.
3. Pressure C Solenoid. Also check for debris and replace the gasket.
As a matter of fact the Shift C should be replaced before the 2, 3, & 4 gear switches or at the same time.
I disagree with anyone that thinks the trans is suppose to shift harsh and that's how it's designed. No high end vehicle manufacturer is going to intentionally design their transmissions to shift rough. Not rough enough to notice during normal driving. The trans should be passive not noticable during normal driving.
1. Shift solenoid C.
2. Pressure A/B solenoids (2 in 1 assy). check for debris under the three small pipes and replace the 3-Orings/gasket.
3. Pressure C Solenoid. Also check for debris and replace the gasket.
As a matter of fact the Shift C should be replaced before the 2, 3, & 4 gear switches or at the same time.
I disagree with anyone that thinks the trans is suppose to shift harsh and that's how it's designed. No high end vehicle manufacturer is going to intentionally design their transmissions to shift rough. Not rough enough to notice during normal driving. The trans should be passive not noticable during normal driving.
Last edited by 01acls; 01-15-2017 at 02:28 PM.
01-15-2017, 04:36 PM
#7
Good advice, I appreciate it.
As you also alluded to, I suspect that what I'm experiencing is "within normal parameters" for a Honda transmission, but it's still a little unnerving to not know whether its just how it's supposed to work or whether I have a several thousand dollar repair looming over me. For those of us that are slightly anal when it comes to paying attention to every detail with our cars, it can be difficult to discern whats normal and what's abnormal when something's not functioning completely perfectly.
I sold my $50k car and purchased this vehicle in an attempt to be financially responsible- I still think its a very reliable, affordable vehicle that is still a pleasure to drive, but there will always be that nagging concern that if something goes wrong that takes thousands to repair, that I could've spent that money on paying for a vehicle with a warranty (e.g. a cheap lease, etc). Over the long haul, however, this is still the more fiscally responsible move.
As you also alluded to, I suspect that what I'm experiencing is "within normal parameters" for a Honda transmission, but it's still a little unnerving to not know whether its just how it's supposed to work or whether I have a several thousand dollar repair looming over me. For those of us that are slightly anal when it comes to paying attention to every detail with our cars, it can be difficult to discern whats normal and what's abnormal when something's not functioning completely perfectly.
I sold my $50k car and purchased this vehicle in an attempt to be financially responsible- I still think its a very reliable, affordable vehicle that is still a pleasure to drive, but there will always be that nagging concern that if something goes wrong that takes thousands to repair, that I could've spent that money on paying for a vehicle with a warranty (e.g. a cheap lease, etc). Over the long haul, however, this is still the more fiscally responsible move.
I don't think a new-used transmission will cost more than a couple thousand. If you have that kind of cushion in place. Don't worry about it. Drive it till you need to change it. If it is bothering you, you do have a lot of mileage on it and it might not be bad to move to something else.
OP, you still have additional options in terms of replacing solenoids. You should try replacing the following...
1. Shift solenoid C.
2. Pressure A/B solenoids (2 in 1 assy). check for debris under the three small pipes and replace the 3-Orings/gasket.
3. Pressure C Solenoid. Also check for debris and replace the gasket.
As a matter of fact the Shift C should be replaced before the 2, 3, & 4 gear switches or at the same time.
I disagree with anyone that thinks the trans is suppose to shift harsh and that's how it's designed. No high end vehicle manufacturer is going to intentionally design their transmissions to shift rough. Not rough enough to notice during normal driving. The trans should be passive not noticable during normal driving.
1. Shift solenoid C.
2. Pressure A/B solenoids (2 in 1 assy). check for debris under the three small pipes and replace the 3-Orings/gasket.
3. Pressure C Solenoid. Also check for debris and replace the gasket.
As a matter of fact the Shift C should be replaced before the 2, 3, & 4 gear switches or at the same time.
I disagree with anyone that thinks the trans is suppose to shift harsh and that's how it's designed. No high end vehicle manufacturer is going to intentionally design their transmissions to shift rough. Not rough enough to notice during normal driving. The trans should be passive not noticable during normal driving.
Is it safe to think that maybe those ones had issues, maybe, but they drove perfectly fine.
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02-01-2017, 09:13 AM
#8
OP, you still have additional options in terms of replacing solenoids. You should try replacing the following...
1. Shift solenoid C.
2. Pressure A/B solenoids (2 in 1 assy). check for debris under the three small pipes and replace the 3-Orings/gasket.
3. Pressure C Solenoid. Also check for debris and replace the gasket.
As a matter of fact the Shift C should be replaced before the 2, 3, & 4 gear switches or at the same time.
I disagree with anyone that thinks the trans is suppose to shift harsh and that's how it's designed. No high end vehicle manufacturer is going to intentionally design their transmissions to shift rough. Not rough enough to notice during normal driving. The trans should be passive not noticable during normal driving.
1. Shift solenoid C.
2. Pressure A/B solenoids (2 in 1 assy). check for debris under the three small pipes and replace the 3-Orings/gasket.
3. Pressure C Solenoid. Also check for debris and replace the gasket.
As a matter of fact the Shift C should be replaced before the 2, 3, & 4 gear switches or at the same time.
I disagree with anyone that thinks the trans is suppose to shift harsh and that's how it's designed. No high end vehicle manufacturer is going to intentionally design their transmissions to shift rough. Not rough enough to notice during normal driving. The trans should be passive not noticable during normal driving.
Thanks for the suggestion. That's an idea that I had not come across before.
After an hour of searching, I haven't been able to find anything written up about replacing these. Are you aware of instructions somewhere that I'm missing? Thanks again for your expertise!!
02-04-2017, 09:49 AM
#9
1 Check your mounts 115K on the original ones are pretty good... I had to do mine at 118K on my CL-S
2. Do you know the last time the fluid was changed on your transmission? If not, change it, drive 10 miles change it again, drive 10 more miles and change it one last time and then every 30K afterwards.
2. Do you know the last time the fluid was changed on your transmission? If not, change it, drive 10 miles change it again, drive 10 more miles and change it one last time and then every 30K afterwards.
02-04-2017, 08:40 PM
#10
Drifting
Video of Pressure A/B, C solenoids as they are mounted on the trans: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVBto-AnZFc
Parts diagram for solenoid locations: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...h-gear-951954/
#17 Shift Solenoid C (Right).
PN: #17 Shift Solenoid C.
#12 Solenoid harness - remove or loosen if needed.
#8 Pressure A/B Solenoid.
#10 Pressure C Solenoid.
#8 and 10 - The small pipes underneath have screens, check that for blockage. The small pipes that have O-rings on them are the ones that have the screens.
NOTE: THIS POST IS APPLICABLE TO THE FOLLOWING TRANS: 07/08 TL; 08 MDX, RDX, RL, HONDA V6 (GAS).
Last edited by 01acls; 02-04-2017 at 08:49 PM.
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