thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

2 weeks and the car going to be going vroom psh psh. Vroom

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I had to go thru the thread to see what BOV you had. The RFL was my favorite - that was my favorite thing when I had my WRX. Sounds so ricey, but so neat, lol.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I love it because it's really fucken loud!! haha going to mess with all the professor and students b/c race car

UTAH TSX

You truly are deep into this turbo project I can tell look closely at the holes in the shoes LOL




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thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Cup noodles ftw. To budget for the build

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Lmao, sacrifice ALL!!!

It's cool because I can see the suspense building in the final phase. I love that feeling but it becomes annoying if it gets dragged out too long by financial or (especially) time constraints. It's one thing to be held back by no parts BUT when you have the parts to finish and can't because of time....ugh, worse feeling ever!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Okay I got 6 more days to go before I start putting stuff on the car. Anyone has some last minute tips and suggestions? I returned the spark plugs that I bought because the gap were .40

Bought some Zex Hyperperformance spark plugs copper plugs. If they suck then I would go with the one below.

Also through further research I found these .31 gap 2 step colder NGK iridium BKR8EIX # 2668

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Hey, is your manifold pipe or tube?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I want to say pipe?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Come on Saturday!! I need that VROOM PSH PSH

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Can I use a Tee on the brake booster to get a vacuum line to go to my blow off valve?

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

I use the NGK iridium 2668 on my build. Use those, they will have decent life and are pretty cheap on ebay.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Thanks! Just wondering how are u guys splitting up the boost lines? I think I need to use a T-splitter for the BOV instead of getting the block distributer

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Except for having a check valve inline, I leave the brake booster line alone.

Everything else is connected to the small spuds coming off the intake.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Do you have a picture?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You want decidated lines to each component for more precise and linear control. Read the manufacturers websites on popular brands.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Ps- use zip ties on all lines if youre notting using AN hoses or push-loc fittings. Blif you blow a wastegate line, it WILL overboost.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

so something like this? LMK I might just postpone until May if I don't have everything I need


http://www.ebay.com/itm/221579209740?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Perfect. I used the Golden Eagle manifold off ebay which is pretty much the same thing. You can also use brake system line manifolds from any auto parts store which are cheaper. Just make at least one of the ports is large enough for at least a 3/8" barbed fitting to be used.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Thanks! just bought one on ebay last minutes. It is shipping for California so hopefully it get here on time next week.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Can you post a picture of how you routed the lines? I just need 1 line for the blow off valve and just want to make sure it is done correctly.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

This is probably the best shot I have of it ATM. If you look closely at the top of the block (which would actually be the far left of it if looking straight at it in the engine bay) you can see the large 8AN hose that is the main vacuum supply to the block...this by definition is technically called the "boost reference" as it supplies all components a reference signal of which to operate from wether it be vacuum or boost. Across the face of the distribution manifold, you have six ports (roughly 5/16" in size) and these are my designations reading from left to right:

1. Capped off (but now used as a reference for the AEM water/meth controller)
2. To rear wastegate
3. To front wastegate
4. To blow off valve
5. To boost gauge inside
6. To fuel pressure regulator (fender well mounted)

And though it cannot be seen in this photo, at the far right there is another large diameter port (1/2" I believe) that runs over to the power brake booster. On this one, it's always a good idea to put in a one way check valve to protect the brake boosters sensitive rubber diaphragm from boost pressure which COULD damage it. Some stock brake booster lines (such as my Accord) actually have these check valves already integrated which protects it from things such as backfire explosions.

Lastly, I should also point out how I used thermal sleeve over these vital lines because as I mentioned earlier, if one of these lines pop off or become damaged, overboost will occur. This is the main reason I chose to use AN lines/fittings on the wastegates and even the blow off valve. Again, be sure and tightly secure zip ties to any rubber hoses that are used with plain barbed fittings. They could quickly become blown off especially if standard vacuum hose is used rather than thick walled reinforced silicone tubing which can resist both the expansion from boost pressure and has excellent collapse resistance against vacuum. Most of your hoses typically sold/offered in auto parts stores will not provide these characteristics. That's when zip ties become a necessity!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

1 more day and project boost is on

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

today is the big day

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

We need pictures STAT!

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Do you have everything to get it done this weekend and driveable? Can't wait for it to run!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Won't be 100% drivable until weds. I still need to tweak the down pipe to match my exhaust but it should be close.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Well fucked up big time today. The oil pan drain was hitting the front pre-cat... I shouldn't have used pix of people line placement when they were using J&R turbo kits.

Then I broke 2 studs on the rear pre-cats.

I left the exhaust hanging and said Fk it. Going to put it all back when I don't feel like the world hates me today.

Also wife car got a CEL. might be the o2 sensor since I got a bank 1 CEL

FML this is going to set me back 2 months. Next time I get a long break is in May..

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Well live and learn.

Now here is the question. Should I get the old feedline chopped of and add a new one to the oil pan. Or should I just get another oil pan and start over

JacobT

Hey man just wanted to say awesome build and I hope it all works out for you!

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Damn that sucks on the oil pan. I've also been right with you on the pre-cat studs. At least yours broke on the pre-cat to J-pipe and not on the head, in the back!

I'd suggest a new oil pan, if only because that is the single LAST thing you want to have an issue with, or re-do. Don't lose faith - you're not using a PlugnPlay kit so you're bound to have a few minor obstacles.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Keep your chin up. I know it's very easy to get discouraged. Can't tell you how many times I've walked away from my car.

I must have put my return a lot more forward than most. If you don't want to start over with the pan, you could always use an AN cap and then just have another installed.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the encouragement. I can't put an end cap on it because the actual threads are hitting the HFPC. So I would have to cut it off and have the hole rewelding and then make another hole for another return line.

I think I am just going to find a set of PCD to hold me down until I can get my HFPC fixed.
I am sure I can figure something out, but right now I think I need to fix the wife car. It needs maintenance item. So modding can wait.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I can see why everyone that has a turbo build going on has a spare car on the side. lol

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I wont have a spare car. I work from home though and only put 2500 miles on my car last year, if that many.

6spd-GERCO

Hang in there man! Take breaks when you are getting frustrated to regroup your emotions and to get a game plan together. With the two broken bolts, do you use anti-seize (so much that it ends up EVERYWHERE) and loosen the studs when they are still warm?

It's a tough spot to be in if this is your only car that you need and puts extra pressure on you, it's not any easier on you. Time to buy a new oil pan or plug the hole (weld or threaded) and relocate the return line.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Took a vacation for a few days.

Going to take the wife car to my friend place in Ohio on Weds to do some much needed maintenance. Going to give the accord a break for a few days. then come back and take off the rear cat and go to a machine shop.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

any recommendation on a sleeve or warp for the oil return line? Now that the oil return will be behind the front precat.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Use the silicone coated fiberglass sleeving you see in my photo i posted earlier in the thread. Great stuff.