DIY turbo idea for cheap? LOL
01-30-2016, 11:11 PM
#241
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I need a resister for sure. I did some reading on the evo forums and they were having the exact same issue as I am. There is only 2 wires (red and black)
But I am liking the gauge so far. Now it just needs to read positive boost instead of vacuum
. Maybe in a few weeks it will
But I am liking the gauge so far. Now it just needs to read positive boost instead of vacuum
. Maybe in a few weeks it will
02-01-2016, 02:18 PM
#242
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Finished up porting the downpipe to 2in all around.... That was as far as I could go, but it better than the 1.75in opening that I started off with.
also painted the other oil pan gunmetal gray just because I had extra paint
also painted the other oil pan gunmetal gray just because I had extra paint
02-01-2016, 05:23 PM
#244
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here is what 5qt of water looks like. The bung is just above the water line. In a running there will be less oil in the pan because it is circulating. So it should be okay
Here is the oil pan painted, and yes I did buy a used one.
Here is the oil pan painted, and yes I did buy a used one.
02-01-2016, 06:37 PM
#247
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Crank is above the waterline. So that shouldn't be a problem. also for the oil pickup the amount that it displace will be stacked into the piping. Remember our car only takes 4.5 qt. I over filled it not accounting for 200-300ml in the filter and the amount that will be in circulation when the oil is moving around. This is just wet static level. Just wanted to document for demonstration purpose.
02-01-2016, 06:42 PM
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I also forgot to add. If you have an accord and base tl 04-06. The oil pan is different for the 07-08. I think it might have to do with how the Bell housing changed in-between those 2 years. They come up with 2 different part numbers
02-02-2016, 12:38 PM
#249
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Here are 1 step colder plugs with the same gap if you guys are interested. 37 bucks after tax. Just use advance auto 30% coupon.
You could also use the IK22, but these were cheaper and a lot closers to me. The IK22 were 30 mins away.
You could also use the IK22, but these were cheaper and a lot closers to me. The IK22 were 30 mins away.
02-06-2016, 11:34 PM
#250
Though its not ideal, I wouldn't worry too much about the oil level vs drain bung location as the level in the pan and the drain tube will always match each other and will not impede the oils ability to drain properly. I say "not ideal" because even IF the level were above the bung, it would just keep oil sitting at the fitting connection which could eventually cause seepage issues. Even then, that's not very likely as the AN fitting is designed to provide a leak proof seal for fluids.
Btw, engine bay is looking great! Love the color scheme you chose. Just out of curiosity, what would you say you've spent so far on the project so far?
Btw, engine bay is looking great! Love the color scheme you chose. Just out of curiosity, what would you say you've spent so far on the project so far?
02-07-2016, 07:53 AM
#251
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Should I put some liquid Teflon or something on the threads to help the seals?
Price so far is around 2000. But I have a few more stuff to order. I am switching the turbine housing to an open scroll since I think my open scroll manifold will suffer greatly with the twin scroll turbine housing, next are the upper o2 sensor so that I can get acturate reading. The car is about 10 years old so would not be a bad idea. Lastly, is to get the exhaust flange welded on to the end of the down pipe since it is an 2.5in v band and I have the 3 bolt triangle flange.
So my guess is after everything is said and done about 2500-3000. I been keeping an excel sheet of everything I bought and labor on stuff also.
Price so far is around 2000. But I have a few more stuff to order. I am switching the turbine housing to an open scroll since I think my open scroll manifold will suffer greatly with the twin scroll turbine housing, next are the upper o2 sensor so that I can get acturate reading. The car is about 10 years old so would not be a bad idea. Lastly, is to get the exhaust flange welded on to the end of the down pipe since it is an 2.5in v band and I have the 3 bolt triangle flange.
So my guess is after everything is said and done about 2500-3000. I been keeping an excel sheet of everything I bought and labor on stuff also.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 02-07-2016 at 08:06 AM.
02-07-2016, 12:53 PM
#252
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working out price on a single turbine housing with the seller right now. Just waiting for the pictures. Then It is one less thing I can worry about, since the the stock holset is twin scroll and has a wastegate built into it.
definitely not paying 320 + shipping for this
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
definitely not paying 320 + shipping for this
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
02-07-2016, 09:36 PM
#253
should i put some liquid teflon or something on the threads to help the seals?
no, definitely not. This would only cause clearance issues between the fittings mating surfaces and where they meet. An fittings are precision machined with an angled, smooth finish to provide maximum sealing properties without the need for any sealants, gaskets or orings. I'm not sure if you are using a welded bung on the pan or an an bulkhead but if you're using the latter, then i'd recommend seriously reconsidering your decision as the fitting will be a constant leaky headache...ask me how i know this.
price so far is around 2000. But i have a few more stuff to order. I am switching the turbine housing to an open scroll since i think my open scroll manifold will suffer greatly with the twin scroll turbine housing, next are the upper o2 sensor so that i can get acturate reading. The car is about 10 years old so would not be a bad idea. Lastly, is to get the exhaust flange welded on to the end of the down pipe since it is an 2.5in v band and i have the 3 bolt triangle flange.
So my guess is after everything is said and done about 2500-3000. I been keeping an excel sheet of everything i bought and labor on stuff also.
that's actually not that bad man. It took me double that just for the metal fab, parts and labor alone!
You mentioned running a 3" vband, does this mean your downpipe will be 3" diameter?if so, then you should be ok. Any smaller than that and you will be risking power loss. Remember that even a 3" exhaust will support roughly 350hp na and because turbocharged engines are much more sensitive to back pressure, this could mean limitations on your setup. This, of course, depends on what amount of boost pressure you plan on running but just something to think about.
no, definitely not. This would only cause clearance issues between the fittings mating surfaces and where they meet. An fittings are precision machined with an angled, smooth finish to provide maximum sealing properties without the need for any sealants, gaskets or orings. I'm not sure if you are using a welded bung on the pan or an an bulkhead but if you're using the latter, then i'd recommend seriously reconsidering your decision as the fitting will be a constant leaky headache...ask me how i know this.
price so far is around 2000. But i have a few more stuff to order. I am switching the turbine housing to an open scroll since i think my open scroll manifold will suffer greatly with the twin scroll turbine housing, next are the upper o2 sensor so that i can get acturate reading. The car is about 10 years old so would not be a bad idea. Lastly, is to get the exhaust flange welded on to the end of the down pipe since it is an 2.5in v band and i have the 3 bolt triangle flange.
So my guess is after everything is said and done about 2500-3000. I been keeping an excel sheet of everything i bought and labor on stuff also.
that's actually not that bad man. It took me double that just for the metal fab, parts and labor alone!
You mentioned running a 3" vband, does this mean your downpipe will be 3" diameter?if so, then you should be ok. Any smaller than that and you will be risking power loss. Remember that even a 3" exhaust will support roughly 350hp na and because turbocharged engines are much more sensitive to back pressure, this could mean limitations on your setup. This, of course, depends on what amount of boost pressure you plan on running but just something to think about.
02-07-2016, 09:58 PM
#254
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The bung is welded on the pan.
I need to remeasure the down-pipe again. I know that from the turbo back to the first half of the down pipe it is 3in, after that I think it might have shrunk to 2.5in. I could be wrong though. My current exhaust is 2.5in split to dual 2.25in. not sure if that will be a problem or not. Only aiming for 400 crank hp or 350whp. what ever comes first. Just looking to run the minimum on boost for now until I have enough funds to buy a spare block to sleeve, do piston, rods, and 1000cc injectors.
Also thanks for chiming in.
http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/
I need to remeasure the down-pipe again. I know that from the turbo back to the first half of the down pipe it is 3in, after that I think it might have shrunk to 2.5in. I could be wrong though. My current exhaust is 2.5in split to dual 2.25in. not sure if that will be a problem or not. Only aiming for 400 crank hp or 350whp. what ever comes first. Just looking to run the minimum on boost for now until I have enough funds to buy a spare block to sleeve, do piston, rods, and 1000cc injectors.
Also thanks for chiming in.
http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 02-07-2016 at 10:02 PM.
02-08-2016, 03:49 PM
#255
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installed my slim radiator on the driver size. It was a bitch to do. I also tried to do the battery relocation, but that didn't work out too well. I had everything hooked up and then no power. Moved the battery back to the front. Sooo mad!!
02-08-2016, 05:55 PM
#256
How'd you wire it?
I have my ground wire in the trunk going to the frame, and the positive runs to the starter, and from the starter to the fuse box distribution.
Well, technically it all runs to a power block, and then out from there, but I'm gonna have to redo and move that for the turbo.
I have my ground wire in the trunk going to the frame, and the positive runs to the starter, and from the starter to the fuse box distribution.
Well, technically it all runs to a power block, and then out from there, but I'm gonna have to redo and move that for the turbo.
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02-08-2016, 07:28 PM
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I have the positive from the battery going to the distribution block. Then the block splits it to my oem fuse box, starting, alternator, and accessories . I am sure it was a bad ground or something. I need to find a better body ground. I a 4 gauge amp wiring kit so I can have some extra wires to play with.
Also I have 2 fuses near the battery. One going to the amp and one going to the distribution block
Also I have 2 fuses near the battery. One going to the amp and one going to the distribution block
02-10-2016, 09:22 PM
#261
Don't we all my friend? 
I myself have been meticulously working at a snails pace to get my setup working perfectly from the first start up. I'm one of those people that like to back my car out of the garage for the first time and have not one worry about something being missed, forgotten, or improperly executed.
I have my cooling fans to modify/install, wiring for AFR gauges, then finally tuning. After that, it's play time.
I myself have been meticulously working at a snails pace to get my setup working perfectly from the first start up. I'm one of those people that like to back my car out of the garage for the first time and have not one worry about something being missed, forgotten, or improperly executed.
I have my cooling fans to modify/install, wiring for AFR gauges, then finally tuning. After that, it's play time.
02-10-2016, 09:47 PM
#262
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I know that right after I get all the parts on the car it needs to go to the exhaust shop and get the downpipe mated to my current exhaust. Then it is going to be street tuned and slowly dialed in. I am using a 4psi spring *8psi spring in the diaphragm and the smaller springs where the piston/ under the diaphragm holder* and going to increase the boost with the boost controller, because I have no idea how those EMUSA wastegate are calibrated.
The 6psi spring that I bought was way longer than the 8 psi spring. kinda sucks trying to figure stuff all out on your own, and on a budget
Hopefully, I can sell my J-pipe and custom SRI with bracket to help make up some of the difference
goal is 350whp and a boat load of tq
The 6psi spring that I bought was way longer than the 8 psi spring. kinda sucks trying to figure stuff all out on your own, and on a budget
Hopefully, I can sell my J-pipe and custom SRI with bracket to help make up some of the difference
goal is 350whp and a boat load of tq
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 02-10-2016 at 09:58 PM.
02-12-2016, 05:22 PM
#263
02-13-2016, 03:45 PM
#264
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Sold mine HX35 12cm housing to pay for my custom garrett one. But I bought the wrong adapter. 2.5inch 4 bolt to 3 in v-band. I actually needed a 2.5inch 4 bolt to 2.5inch v-band. D'oh!
Also battery relocation is completed. I will take a picture of it later. There is so much room without the battery in the front.
to pay for my custom garrett one. But I bought the wrong adapter. 2.5inch 4 bolt to 3 in v-band. I actually needed a 2.5inch 4 bolt to 2.5inch v-band. D'oh! Also battery relocation is completed. I will take a picture of it later. There is so much room without the battery in the front.
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02-13-2016, 07:29 PM
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Yup there are 2 seperate fuse right next to the battery 100amp each. One goes to the car and the other to the distribution block for the amps. It's the clear stuff you see over there.
I found out what happen last time when the car wouldn't start. The fuse was blown on one of the 100amp fuse. So that was why the car didn't start. What was strange was that the the actual fuse didn't blow, but the end blew. So I had no idea what I was looking for. Pulled out the multimeter and it narrowed it down for me really quick.
I found out what happen last time when the car wouldn't start. The fuse was blown on one of the 100amp fuse. So that was why the car didn't start. What was strange was that the the actual fuse didn't blow, but the end blew. So I had no idea what I was looking for. Pulled out the multimeter and it narrowed it down for me really quick.
02-16-2016, 01:46 PM
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Hopefully this open scroll manifold will fix what was wrong with the original owner powerband. Twin scroll on an open scroll manifold is a big no no
The turbo now weight 9lbs less with the new housing and no more wastegate to block off
The turbo now weight 9lbs less with the new housing and no more wastegate to block off
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02-16-2016, 11:33 PM
#271
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3 week until spring break. Then I have 9 days straight to work on the car.
To buy list:
New 4in K&N filter because the one that gave with the turbo has a hole in it
Ventri 3in to 2.5in reducer
2.5in 3 bolt flange
To do:
Mock up the intercooler to make brackets and run the intercooler piping.
Modify the down pipe to match my currently exhaust
Port the rest of the opening in the turbo manifold (its been snowing or until 30*F)
Shield all the wiring/hoses/etc in the engine bay
Have Dom street tune my car and see if the 410cc rdx injectors are enough, If not then I am going to upgrade the fuel system and do a return fuel line and add a pressure regulator.
Things maybe I might need to buy:
Stage 2 clutch to handle the new power
Oil cooler
To buy list:
New 4in K&N filter because the one that gave with the turbo has a hole in it
Ventri 3in to 2.5in reducer
2.5in 3 bolt flange
To do:
Mock up the intercooler to make brackets and run the intercooler piping.
Modify the down pipe to match my currently exhaust
Port the rest of the opening in the turbo manifold (its been snowing or until 30*F)
Shield all the wiring/hoses/etc in the engine bay
Have Dom street tune my car and see if the 410cc rdx injectors are enough, If not then I am going to upgrade the fuel system and do a return fuel line and add a pressure regulator.
Things maybe I might need to buy:
Stage 2 clutch to handle the new power
Oil cooler
02-17-2016, 12:19 AM
#272
Sweet man. Take your time on each and every step. You will thankful you did.
Btw, I have a 4" cone filter that's practically new if you're interested. I remember you asking about it in another thread and never got back around to answering you. Sorry...
Btw, I have a 4" cone filter that's practically new if you're interested. I remember you asking about it in another thread and never got back around to answering you. Sorry...
02-17-2016, 07:58 AM
#273
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The RDX 410cc injectors are actually 560cc at the 7th gen accord or 3rd gen TL's 56-58 psi (~4bar) rail pressure, and by the sound of your goals (if I recall correctly were 350whp?) they will be PLENTY large, especially on gasoline. I had my own flow tests and nozzle tests done and my numbers matched perfectly with some that have been floating around the internet for years.
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02-17-2016, 10:01 AM
#275
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02-17-2016, 12:07 PM
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Okay I thought so. Going to be ordering a interlock flex pipe.
I also finished up my porting of the turbo manifold. It is around 2.0 inches with a taper/rounded entrance to help with transition into the pipes. And yeah i ordered the wrong gasket, but I was using this one to do the gasket matching. This is as close as I can get with the tools that I have.
I also finished up my porting of the turbo manifold. It is around 2.0 inches with a taper/rounded entrance to help with transition into the pipes. And yeah i ordered the wrong gasket, but I was using this one to do the gasket matching. This is as close as I can get with the tools that I have.
02-17-2016, 03:09 PM
#278
02-19-2016, 07:44 PM
#279
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Love how much documentation is going into this and really look forward to seeing what the final cost of the whole thing will be! Definitely hope someone will take up your offer and at least reverse engineer the piping.
02-19-2016, 09:02 PM
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So far less then 3k. The manifold is really simple to make. Straight light and then a T off. lol I wish I knew how to weld. I need a few things tweaked that only an exhaust show can do.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 02-19-2016 at 09:06 PM.