A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)
09-26-2013, 02:48 PM
#163
Team Owner
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
As far as smoother I meant that there seems to be a lot less hesitation going 3rd to 4th and back than before I did the switch.
It does not prevent the car from downshifting when slowing or coasting up a hill. That's the brake logic feature that we all seem to hate but I have gotten used to it. Funny what 85K miles of driving would do.
The other issue we all hate is when coasting around 45 mph and the car forgets that it has a 5th gear. Nothing we can do about that one either. Just get used to it.
09-26-2013, 02:52 PM
#164
Team Owner
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
This is a little bit of a read but i want to be thorough and get the right info from the right people on here...
So I read this thread over and over and over... I lurk on here alot and only post if needed on any forum and right now is a need. I followed the instructions and I'am on my last 1x3 using 1 quart redline d4 and 2 quartredline racing atf so i decided to finally switch out all 3 sensors since i bought them months ago preparing for this.
Trans was shifting fine but at 99k miles I figured it was time for this preventive maintenance. Install went normal, after i was done i noticed it was smoother but i didn't do the final 1x3 yet since i wanted to test the sensors. Good thing since about half a mile down the road my engine light came on and no 5th gear. Came back ran a scanner and i got code p0848, Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit High. It was a long day so i let the car sit and decided next day to work on it.
Did some searching and came across the code is related specifically to one of the 3rd gear pressure switches, sensor b i assum since the scanner pulled "switch b"... so i decided to go back in, remove and inspect them. Saw no visual issues so i decided to switch them to see if the problem was still there. Cleaned them up, and while removing the sensor under the intake it snapped and the thread remained in the trans. I was able to get it out cleanly and luckily I had kept my original ones so i re-used one and cleaned it up and re-installed. Had no choice since the dealer has to order these apparently. Cleared the code. Drove half a mile and again same code and still no 5th gear.... i have 5th gear and it shifts smoothly for that start up until the half mile point but i guess once the sensor cycles with the computer, it shuts off and i lose 5th gear.
Anyone have that problem or know another solution? Is my research wrong and my problem really in my 4th gear sensor behind the driver side tire?
I'm pretty auto savvy but can't get my head around this one and i cant seem to find others with this issue. I see peolpe with 3rd or 4th gear issues but not 5th.
Thanks for any help guys
So I read this thread over and over and over... I lurk on here alot and only post if needed on any forum and right now is a need. I followed the instructions and I'am on my last 1x3 using 1 quart redline d4 and 2 quartredline racing atf so i decided to finally switch out all 3 sensors since i bought them months ago preparing for this.
Trans was shifting fine but at 99k miles I figured it was time for this preventive maintenance. Install went normal, after i was done i noticed it was smoother but i didn't do the final 1x3 yet since i wanted to test the sensors. Good thing since about half a mile down the road my engine light came on and no 5th gear. Came back ran a scanner and i got code p0848, Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit High. It was a long day so i let the car sit and decided next day to work on it.
Did some searching and came across the code is related specifically to one of the 3rd gear pressure switches, sensor b i assum since the scanner pulled "switch b"... so i decided to go back in, remove and inspect them. Saw no visual issues so i decided to switch them to see if the problem was still there. Cleaned them up, and while removing the sensor under the intake it snapped and the thread remained in the trans. I was able to get it out cleanly and luckily I had kept my original ones so i re-used one and cleaned it up and re-installed. Had no choice since the dealer has to order these apparently. Cleared the code. Drove half a mile and again same code and still no 5th gear.... i have 5th gear and it shifts smoothly for that start up until the half mile point but i guess once the sensor cycles with the computer, it shuts off and i lose 5th gear.
Anyone have that problem or know another solution? Is my research wrong and my problem really in my 4th gear sensor behind the driver side tire?
I'm pretty auto savvy but can't get my head around this one and i cant seem to find others with this issue. I see peolpe with 3rd or 4th gear issues but not 5th.
Thanks for any help guys
Double check all the wiring and make sure you did not damage any of the electrical plugs when you did the swap. Maybe you damaged wire that prevents your car from shifting to 5th.
That's all I can really think off. This one may lead to a trip to the dealership.
09-26-2013, 03:12 PM
#165
Dallas Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
Thats why I posted the trouble tree off AllData for him, just to check for 5V on one wire and ground on the other. If it has that then we have a sensor issue. Its very easy to check
09-30-2013, 12:46 PM
#166
Interesting.
Double check all the wiring and make sure you did not damage any of the electrical plugs when you did the swap. Maybe you damaged wire that prevents your car from shifting to 5th.
That's all I can really think off. This one may lead to a trip to the dealership.
Double check all the wiring and make sure you did not damage any of the electrical plugs when you did the swap. Maybe you damaged wire that prevents your car from shifting to 5th.
That's all I can really think off. This one may lead to a trip to the dealership.
Yea I need to go back and check the wiring I guess. Something could have been smashed maybe or loosened somewhere relating to the pressure switches.
As far as them being in the incorrect locations, that was my first assumption when I went back and swapped the sensors, I double checked just to be sure. We have alldata here at our shop and I forgot to check there using the trouble tree, thanks. I'll read through that thoroughly and try those steps. Was hoping someone had this issue before but If not a wiring issue I'll just have to re-purchase all 3 sensors again and re-install. Dealer will just put on a scanner for $100 then charge about $250-300 for sensors and install.
09-30-2013, 01:35 PM
#167
Dallas Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
No sense in buying all new sensors, except the one that broke. Make sure you have them in the correct locations, also make sure you dont have a wire broken inside the insulation or a damaged terminal. You obviously didnt have this problem before hand, so it is something that happened after you replaced the sensors. Start from square one, check and make sure the color of the sensors is in correlation to the connector. Gray to gray and black to black. Maybe a wire is broken inside the insulation near the connector and you pulled it apart when you disconnected them. Let me know if you need help, im on the DFW area.
10-20-2013, 01:54 PM
#168
I just replaced the sensors on my 2007 (70k miles) and noticed a difference in the shifts. I have redline in the transmission for approx 10k miles and it was shifting nice and firm, but this sensor replacement topped it off. I am very pleased with the results.
FYI -- when you are taking the harness off of the sensor, you squeeze them together at the end and pull off. I was trying to figure out how to get the damn thing off for an hour and finally figured out you squeeze together, not pry apart with a flat head.
FYI -- when you are taking the harness off of the sensor, you squeeze them together at the end and pull off. I was trying to figure out how to get the damn thing off for an hour and finally figured out you squeeze together, not pry apart with a flat head.
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JCash23 (08-14-2022)
11-29-2013, 09:25 PM
#169
did mine today.......smooth sailing!
Also drained fluid and replaced with Redline D4. I will say that mine took all of 4 quarts to re-fill. I was surprised since most of my research indicated about 3. I did let it drain for about 45min while I was working on the lower switch. Glad I had ordered a case in anticipation of the future swaps.
Hardest part for me was trying to get the front bolt back in on the underbelly protective sheild for the transmission. Damn thing has some bunged up threads. Gonna have to get a new one as even a tap/die set didn't seem to fix it up? It's the little things that irritate me but all else went well.
Will post up an update after I get a few miles on it.
Also drained fluid and replaced with Redline D4. I will say that mine took all of 4 quarts to re-fill. I was surprised since most of my research indicated about 3. I did let it drain for about 45min while I was working on the lower switch. Glad I had ordered a case in anticipation of the future swaps.
Hardest part for me was trying to get the front bolt back in on the underbelly protective sheild for the transmission. Damn thing has some bunged up threads. Gonna have to get a new one as even a tap/die set didn't seem to fix it up? It's the little things that irritate me but all else went well.
Will post up an update after I get a few miles on it.
Last edited by viking00; 11-29-2013 at 09:28 PM. Reason: more info.
02-10-2014, 01:24 PM
#170
Just changed the switches on my 2008 base TL with 112k miles. was easy enough to do myself and just followed the instructions on the first page and everything went smoothly...but having small hands will make it a lot easier
02-10-2014, 03:19 PM
#171
Advanced
Agreed, this is such an easy DIY service. I've done it twice now and the second time took half the amount of time. Small hands is the key!
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zune hd (02-14-2014)
03-30-2014, 05:58 PM
#174
Racer
Just finished installing the new pressure switches on my 07 Type S, the upper pressure switches were easy, the lower pressure switch was difficult to access, but I managed to get to it, I had to go through the driver's side wheel well with my left hand while looking at the switch from underneath the car to be able to get everything lined up. needless to say it's the one time that I wish my hands were smaller.
I didn't think that my transmission had anything wrong with it's shifting, but taking it out after installing the new pressure switches, I am amazed at how much more smoothly the trans shifts between gears. I'm very glad I decided to do this maintenance item! It's definitely going into my service rotation around every 50k miles now.
I didn't think that my transmission had anything wrong with it's shifting, but taking it out after installing the new pressure switches, I am amazed at how much more smoothly the trans shifts between gears. I'm very glad I decided to do this maintenance item! It's definitely going into my service rotation around every 50k miles now.
04-08-2014, 01:34 PM
#175
My car is a '08 and has 70k miles. I replaced all 3 sensors this past weekend. Took me about 4 hours because it was my first time. This car is relative new to me and my first auto trans car so I was not sure how the auto should shift. The dealer changed out the fluid about 2 months ago and the car did not have any issues but I thought I would change out the sensors for my own piece of mind. After changing them out the transmission shifted the same so I guess my original pressure sensor was probably ok. I think I will be replacing these every 30-50k miles as a preventative measure. A reminder, press DOWN on the tab and pull to remove the connector. Took me a long time trying to release the connector.
Continue reading if you are interested in what problems I ran into. For the front sensor, I found out it was much easier to get to if I unbolted and took out the battery support. There are 4 12mm bolts holding this on, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. It helps if you have small hands. After the support is removed the senor is right there, really easy to get to.
The one under the air box was semi-easy to get to with and extension but I had problems getting the new one threaded back in. I finally removed the the bracket since I only had to remove three bolts. I should have done this in the first place.
The one by the firewall was pretty easy. I did not remove the hose to get to it. Like I said before it helps that I have small hands.
Continue reading if you are interested in what problems I ran into. For the front sensor, I found out it was much easier to get to if I unbolted and took out the battery support. There are 4 12mm bolts holding this on, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. It helps if you have small hands. After the support is removed the senor is right there, really easy to get to.
The one under the air box was semi-easy to get to with and extension but I had problems getting the new one threaded back in. I finally removed the the bracket since I only had to remove three bolts. I should have done this in the first place.
The one by the firewall was pretty easy. I did not remove the hose to get to it. Like I said before it helps that I have small hands.
05-19-2014, 02:07 PM
#176
**update**
Let me preface my post with some background info:
Our 07 TL sees 85%/15% HWY/City driving. We commute about 22k/year.
Performed first 3x3 drain and fill (maybe even 4x3, I can't recall) at 70k miles. I also changed all of the pressure sensors. Saw some improvement in overall shift performance. Probably or mostly attributed to the transmission fluid change from OEM to Redline. 2nd to 3rd flare was still there, but minimized. Overall, all gear shifts have been excellent since.
Please note that I didn't really have any glaring transmission symptoms. I only performed this service due to the overall concerns many of us have with our transmissions. It was simply preventative maintenance for maximum service life.
Fast Forward to today, 60k miles later (130k miles), I did another drain and fill, very close to 4x1 (2 Redline Light Weight Racing & 2 D4). Saw some material or "sludge" on the magnetic drain plug, but nothing crazy. Fluid was as red as when it was put in, so that was a good sign. Based on what has been stated in this thread, I also elected to swap out all the sensors again.
Funny thing is, I noticed VERY LITTLE, if any, difference in performance. It makes sense cause I'm probably nearly 100% Full Synthetic transmission fluid. I'm sure it also helps that our non-aggressive driving style probably puts less stress on the transmission.
Once we reach the 205k mile threshold, I'll reevaluate the overall health of the vehicle and decide whether run it into that ground and get the timing belt done. If I do, I feel confident I can take the transmission service interval well beyond this point. I will not hesitate going another 100k miles before even thinking about doing another drain & fill, much less any sensor changes. It's quite possible that I will not service the transmission for the balance of ownership of the vehicle. Feels good
Just my $.02. Feel free to comment or ask any questions.
Let me preface my post with some background info:
Our 07 TL sees 85%/15% HWY/City driving. We commute about 22k/year.
Performed first 3x3 drain and fill (maybe even 4x3, I can't recall) at 70k miles. I also changed all of the pressure sensors. Saw some improvement in overall shift performance. Probably or mostly attributed to the transmission fluid change from OEM to Redline. 2nd to 3rd flare was still there, but minimized. Overall, all gear shifts have been excellent since.
Please note that I didn't really have any glaring transmission symptoms. I only performed this service due to the overall concerns many of us have with our transmissions. It was simply preventative maintenance for maximum service life.
Fast Forward to today, 60k miles later (130k miles), I did another drain and fill, very close to 4x1 (2 Redline Light Weight Racing & 2 D4). Saw some material or "sludge" on the magnetic drain plug, but nothing crazy. Fluid was as red as when it was put in, so that was a good sign. Based on what has been stated in this thread, I also elected to swap out all the sensors again.
Funny thing is, I noticed VERY LITTLE, if any, difference in performance. It makes sense cause I'm probably nearly 100% Full Synthetic transmission fluid. I'm sure it also helps that our non-aggressive driving style probably puts less stress on the transmission.
Once we reach the 205k mile threshold, I'll reevaluate the overall health of the vehicle and decide whether run it into that ground and get the timing belt done. If I do, I feel confident I can take the transmission service interval well beyond this point. I will not hesitate going another 100k miles before even thinking about doing another drain & fill, much less any sensor changes. It's quite possible that I will not service the transmission for the balance of ownership of the vehicle. Feels good
Just my $.02. Feel free to comment or ask any questions.
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4drturbo (02-27-2017)
05-19-2014, 11:47 PM
#177
Dallas Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
I just changed mine, not the easiest to access, but Im a mechanic. Im used to tight spaces, but I took the cover off under the trans next to the j-pipe and could see it. I can feel a difference, smoother shifts. Haven't done redline trans drain/refill yet. My rear and side mounts are torn as well contributing to a harsh shift. The dealer said they weren't torn tho, so im going back and making them do them for free! Bastards. I had a warranty and they wouldn't say they were torn. Idiots.
06-01-2014, 06:20 PM
#178
Awesome information, OP. Thanks for posting the pictures and and narrative. I changed out the switches on my 2007 TL base (70K miles) and am really happy with the results. Changing the switches, coupled with a recent 3X3 has made a really nice improvement in the shift quality of the transmission. I had the switches sitting on my desk since last fall and finally got around to changing them yesterday....wish I had done so much earlier. For those of you who are contemplating this DIY, I say go for it - it's really easy to do. Just have that 7/8 deep socket, some extensions and good lighting. Take you time and you'll have it done in two hours. Thanks, again, OP!
06-19-2014, 02:34 PM
#179
Transmission Pressure switches
Hello all, I am a new Acura owner. I just purchased a 2008 TL 3.2 automatic. I love the car and am getting to know it better every day. I have 65,XXX miles on the car. The transmission is kind of hard to get used to, as ive never had a car that shifts so firmly. I have been reading about the 3x3 oil changes, Amsoil, Redline, and pressure sensor threads. I called my local acura dealer and asked about doing the sensors as PM. He acted as if he had never heard of this. He wondered why i'd want to change out a switch when they are most likely working fine. He also went on to say that these switches are a simple device that opens and closes and making the clutches engage. They either work or they dont. He didnt say anything about them losing "calibration". I also called some reputable tranny shops and they basically say the same thing. Im kind of confused by all this.
Any further input?
Alan
Any further input?
Alan
06-27-2014, 03:49 AM
#181
Hello all, I am a new Acura owner. I just purchased a 2008 TL 3.2 automatic. I love the car and am getting to know it better every day. I have 65,XXX miles on the car. The transmission is kind of hard to get used to, as ive never had a car that shifts so firmly. I have been reading about the 3x3 oil changes, Amsoil, Redline, and pressure sensor threads. I called my local acura dealer and asked about doing the sensors as PM. He acted as if he had never heard of this. He wondered why i'd want to change out a switch when they are most likely working fine. He also went on to say that these switches are a simple device that opens and closes and making the clutches engage. They either work or they dont. He didnt say anything about them losing "calibration". I also called some reputable tranny shops and they basically say the same thing. Im kind of confused by all this.
Any further input?
Alan
Any further input?
Alan
They still open / close as before and therefore will not set a code, but they switch at the WRONG pressure and you won't notice a small drift until it's to late, in other words until your clutch packs - especially 3rd - has been slowly damaged over time.
Consider this, there is only around 6 PSI between a new 3rd and 4th P-switch on/off-pressure points, Honda and transmissions techs who actually work and understand Honda shift logic WARN you NEVER to swap the P-switch positions around as it will cause damage to the transmission, as has been proven the hard way. Yet they drift out by a similar amount as they age, BUT in the WRONG direction (higher pressure) and somehow this is ok - not a problem - according to these clowns.
I know this makes it very confusing for owners who are trying to do the right thing and ask the so called experts, don't know if what I said will make any difference but if you have to make a decision, err on the side of caution and replace them every 4 to 6 years, some people recommend sooner but it depends on conditions, mileage and which way the wind is blowing.
EDIT - If the original ATF is still in there and you have not carried out a 3x3 ATF change yet, then please do it - even if it's with DW-1, just do it.
Last edited by Mkarl; 06-27-2014 at 03:55 AM.
06-27-2014, 09:51 PM
#182
I changed mine a couple days ago along with a drain and refill.
I took it for a test drive after the replacement and the green D light started flashing...
Took it back and it gave an air pressure code
Also noticed that the wire that connects to the switch wasn't firmly making contact.
After that was fixed, took another drive and everything has been smooth ever since!
So, if you get a blinking green D light after you replace your switches, don't panic, just make sure everything is snug and firm
I took it for a test drive after the replacement and the green D light started flashing...
Took it back and it gave an air pressure code
Also noticed that the wire that connects to the switch wasn't firmly making contact.
After that was fixed, took another drive and everything has been smooth ever since!
So, if you get a blinking green D light after you replace your switches, don't panic, just make sure everything is snug and firm
09-06-2014, 11:16 PM
#183
Road Racer / Solo Addict
OP thanks for listing the details in your first post, followed as a guideline to identify location of all three.. Was a breeze to change.. Didnt have any issues shifting.. But it feel much smoother know.. And the peace of mind is priceless..
10-01-2014, 01:38 PM
#184
10-09-2014, 05:23 PM
#186
1st to 2nd shift is different and does not really use overlap timing or need a pressure switch, this is the reason (in theory) why it's supposedly the gear change most affected/controlled by the amount of fluid FM.
3rd P-S handles 2-3, 3-2 and P to D engagement timing. 3rd and 4th P-S's have 3-4-3 covered, 4th PS handles 4-5-4. Due to gear ratios, shift feel programming, torque, design and a few flaws, the 3rd gear clutch pack is the problem child.
3rd P-S handles 2-3, 3-2 and P to D engagement timing. 3rd and 4th P-S's have 3-4-3 covered, 4th PS handles 4-5-4. Due to gear ratios, shift feel programming, torque, design and a few flaws, the 3rd gear clutch pack is the problem child.
10-09-2014, 09:36 PM
#187
To clarify - I mean a hard (er) feel to 1-2 shifts with small amounts of change in FM (oxidisation/heat/age/fluid quality) although 2-3 is mostly noticed because of design shortcomings.
10-10-2014, 06:00 AM
#188
Safety Car
1st to 2nd shift is different and does not really use overlap timing or need a pressure switch, this is the reason (in theory) why it's supposedly the gear change most affected/controlled by the amount of fluid FM.
3rd P-S handles 2-3, 3-2 and P to D engagement timing. 3rd and 4th P-S's have 3-4-3 covered, 4th PS handles 4-5-4. Due to gear ratios, shift feel programming, torque, design and a few flaws, the 3rd gear clutch pack is the problem child.
3rd P-S handles 2-3, 3-2 and P to D engagement timing. 3rd and 4th P-S's have 3-4-3 covered, 4th PS handles 4-5-4. Due to gear ratios, shift feel programming, torque, design and a few flaws, the 3rd gear clutch pack is the problem child.
Another poster in this big thread mentioned that the 3/4 switches should be basically treated like a maintenance item and replaced at 50k interval or so. Looks like this is a small price to pay if it keeps up the life of the 5AT.
I got in touch with a local TL guy and he's gonna help with doing this (just bought my 06 TL couple weeks ago) as well as upgrading the ATF in the mean time (doing 1x3, and then doing 3x3 on my own every 1k mi or so) as well.
Total upgrade/maintenace for the 5AT which is at 160k so hopefully it'll last at least another 100k!
10-12-2014, 03:29 AM
#189
Hmm I may have to do this... From 4th to 5th I notice a hesitation or not really a smooth shift on my 08 type s. Only really notice this when going fast and switching at higher rpms. Anyone else have/had this?
10-12-2014, 07:39 AM
#190
I did till I replaced all the pressure switch last week now there is no problem shift fast.
10-20-2014, 02:27 PM
#192
Hey all..I have a few questions about these switches and when to do them and what service needs to be done injunction with replacing the sensors (if applicable).
I have an 07' Type S and right now have an A123 code, which means, oil change, tire rotation, cabin/engine filter and transmission service..
I got the tire rotation done for free at discount and plan on doing the filters myself since its a 10 min job.
I plan on taking the car to the Acura Dealer and its around $100 for the transmission service. I probably won't do the 3 switches/sensors just yet. I plan on buying the parts at least from acura parts warehouse or somewhere similar to save a little money. I don't plan on doing this myself. (FYI the car has 85k miles on it, and ive owned it since 18k miles, as far as I know the switches have never been replaced)
So here are my main questions:
When replacing these sensor/switches (all 3 with gaskets):
1. When the parts are replaced, do you have to do a transmission service along with it or can you just just replace the switches alone?
2. Should I wait until 105k miles (when I plan on doing timing belt service) or is that too long? If not, maybe i'll do it at 90k, but this depends on answer #1 if I need to do a tranny service with it.
I have an 07' Type S and right now have an A123 code, which means, oil change, tire rotation, cabin/engine filter and transmission service..
I got the tire rotation done for free at discount and plan on doing the filters myself since its a 10 min job.
I plan on taking the car to the Acura Dealer and its around $100 for the transmission service. I probably won't do the 3 switches/sensors just yet. I plan on buying the parts at least from acura parts warehouse or somewhere similar to save a little money. I don't plan on doing this myself. (FYI the car has 85k miles on it, and ive owned it since 18k miles, as far as I know the switches have never been replaced)
So here are my main questions:
When replacing these sensor/switches (all 3 with gaskets):
1. When the parts are replaced, do you have to do a transmission service along with it or can you just just replace the switches alone?
2. Should I wait until 105k miles (when I plan on doing timing belt service) or is that too long? If not, maybe i'll do it at 90k, but this depends on answer #1 if I need to do a tranny service with it.
10-20-2014, 11:35 PM
#193
10-23-2014, 06:15 AM
#194
Hey all..I have a few questions about these switches and when to do them and what service needs to be done injunction with replacing the sensors (if applicable).
So here are my main questions:
When replacing these sensor/switches (all 3 with gaskets):
1. When the parts are replaced, do you have to do a transmission service along with it or can you just just replace the switches alone?
2. Should I wait until 105k miles (when I plan on doing timing belt service) or is that too long? If not, maybe i'll do it at 90k, but this depends on answer #1 if I need to do a tranny service with it.
So here are my main questions:
When replacing these sensor/switches (all 3 with gaskets):
1. When the parts are replaced, do you have to do a transmission service along with it or can you just just replace the switches alone?
2. Should I wait until 105k miles (when I plan on doing timing belt service) or is that too long? If not, maybe i'll do it at 90k, but this depends on answer #1 if I need to do a tranny service with it.
No you don't have to do a service when replacing the switches. Mine were out a long way after 5 years and 60k miles.
11-15-2014, 02:19 PM
#196
Mr. Detail
I talked to the shop that rebuilt my transmission about the pressure switches. He said he's never seen a Honda/Acura automatic fail because of the switches themselves, when a Honda/Acura transmission has an issue, 99% of the time its internal. But if it makes me feel better, there is certainly no problem with changing them if I want.
He did say also that a mix of DW-1 and Redline D4 would work fine.
He did say also that a mix of DW-1 and Redline D4 would work fine.
11-22-2014, 03:59 PM
#197
CEL & Code P0843
Anyone else get it and perform this DIY to remedy it? My trans will not shift in to 4th gear! I searched and found only 1 other thread with this issue and he seemed to clear it up with this fix: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...lution-854164/
I purchased my car in August w/94k miles on it and came across this thread before. Was going to do it when I did the 105k service. Looks like I'll be doing it now.
Just curious if anyone else has solved this code, P0843, by doing this DIY. Thanks
Anyone else get it and perform this DIY to remedy it? My trans will not shift in to 4th gear! I searched and found only 1 other thread with this issue and he seemed to clear it up with this fix: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...lution-854164/
I purchased my car in August w/94k miles on it and came across this thread before. Was going to do it when I did the 105k service. Looks like I'll be doing it now.
Just curious if anyone else has solved this code, P0843, by doing this DIY. Thanks
11-23-2014, 10:26 AM
#198
CEL & Code P0843
Anyone else get it and perform this DIY to remedy it? My trans will not shift in to 4th gear! I searched and found only 1 other thread with this issue and he seemed to clear it up with this fix: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...lution-854164/
I purchased my car in August w/94k miles on it and came across this thread before. Was going to do it when I did the 105k service. Looks like I'll be doing it now.
Just curious if anyone else has solved this code, P0843, by doing this DIY. Thanks
Anyone else get it and perform this DIY to remedy it? My trans will not shift in to 4th gear! I searched and found only 1 other thread with this issue and he seemed to clear it up with this fix: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...lution-854164/
I purchased my car in August w/94k miles on it and came across this thread before. Was going to do it when I did the 105k service. Looks like I'll be doing it now.
Just curious if anyone else has solved this code, P0843, by doing this DIY. Thanks
11-23-2014, 10:14 PM
#199
Thanks for the feedback. Yea I haven't found many others with this trouble code so thanks. Parts on order.
And FYI I cleared the code by disconnecting the neg cable on the battery for over an hour. I test drove it around the block to make sure it got past 3rd gear and then took it out on to the open road and got it up to 5th gear. Put 60mi on it this weekend without the trouble code or CEL coming back, shifted like normal. Plan on driving it this week to and from work then replacing the sensors as soon as they come in. It was no joke when the car wouldn't get past 3rd gear. Thought my trans was done!
And FYI I cleared the code by disconnecting the neg cable on the battery for over an hour. I test drove it around the block to make sure it got past 3rd gear and then took it out on to the open road and got it up to 5th gear. Put 60mi on it this weekend without the trouble code or CEL coming back, shifted like normal. Plan on driving it this week to and from work then replacing the sensors as soon as they come in. It was no joke when the car wouldn't get past 3rd gear. Thought my trans was done!
11-24-2014, 10:43 AM
#200
Team Owner
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
I'm glad you guys are getting some use out of this thread.
I plan on doing mine again next spring. I've driven about 100K miles since I did mine and it runs great.
I plan on doing mine again next spring. I've driven about 100K miles since I did mine and it runs great.