Paul91

FWIW, don't try to attempt this w/o having the 7/8 DEEP socket....it's not going to happen w/o it.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ i used a 7/8" wrench and it worked just fine

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

You suck.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

ordered my sensors/gaskets today...who want's to help me install these?

ravi...?

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Sure. Take a drive up to Lancaster. I have a large enough garage.

Paul91

[QUOTE=swoosh;13510439]^^^ i used a 7/8" wrench and it worked just fine [/QUOTE

I highly doubt that, kind sir. There is no way that you can get your hand and a wrench through the wheel well to gain access, let alone around the sensor to turn it. Can't go under the cross member for access, either.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

[quote=Paul91;13512398]He's got an 05.

Paul91

[QUOTE=RaviNJCLs;13512405]Gotcha. I didn't see that at first. Based on his response, I thought he was commenting on the same trans as me considering the point of the thread was for
07'-08'.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Thank you Ravi

Sorry about that dude....yeah i didnt check if the thread was 04-06/07-08....i just posted that the wrench worked just fine....

LaJay007

iTrader: (1)

subscribed. Thanks!

jerzydevil609

idk how good you are, but for the one under the airbox, i couldnt get it out without 2 short extensions and a lil joint to help out with the angle haah... besides that n the deep socket for sure, your good to go!!

the one between the tubes in teh back on the firewall side is a piece of cake if you remove the bar connecting the shocks on each side of the car. the socket slips right in between the two tubes and theres plenty of room to maneuver with just the deep socket.

the one in the driverside wheel well i took the wheel off and moved the plastic cover to the side. that one was the hardest to unplug but access was also easy with the wheel and plastic out of the way. i recommend pushing the release button on the plug and sticking a lil flat tip where the plug meets teh sensor and just twist it a lil and it should pop... pushing the button and just pulling with my hands was hard as hell and didnt wanna come out for NOTHING!!

i saved and combined the two diys for our years to a word file that i'll post tomorrow at work if i remember

... good luck bro!! hope everything turns out smoothly for ya

Rsoetidjo

How often do I have to do this? Is it for all 3rd gen TL or just certain year?

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

I've read a few different comments on this. I think every 36K-48K miles will be good, or every 3-4 years.

Paul91

Brew, thanks for getting back to me, but your PM is full. In case you see this, I posted about my MIL trans code and issue here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...1#post13539411

TAZ1811

I am eagerly awaiting response to this question as well.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

good god...i can see why people like IHC get tired of saying the same thing over and over again.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ good edit Sharky LOL....but gotta help the newbie....you remember we all asked the same questions around 8K post back LOL (not really but you see my point ?)

To explain about the siwtches:

The pressure switches, come into play when you switch from a gear to another....these switches are activated at a certain PSI (pressure)....so when that pressure is reached, the gear changes....I think the 3rd gear was like 28psi....

Example: so if you driving in "D" and you cross say 25mph on 1/2 throttle the line pressure reaches 28mph and hence the gear changes from 3rd to 4th....sometimes there is "gear hang"...which is one gear hangs in there for tooo long....this is due to old pressure switches....

I tried to use the simplest words possible for you newbies.....read couple pages of this thread for a more technical understanding

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/very-interesting-conversation-my-transmission-builder-tl-721508/

Paul91

Brew- I confirmed yesterday that the two sensors accessed through the engine bay are for 4th gear (#28600-RKE-004), and the one below that is accessed through the drivers' side wheel well is pn# 28610-RKE-004. They are also color coded. The two up top for 4th gear are white, and the one below for 3rd gear is black. I know for a fact that these had never been changed before on my car, so the originals that I pulled out matched in color.

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

Where is the DIY for the 04-06 Tranny?

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

here you go.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/

wojo1988

Got my parts. going to tackle this on my 07 type s soon. I noticed 3rd and 4th hang a little and are a little slow. I hope instead of sitting at 50mph while cruising at higher rpms it will shift quicker

AMSMiTH

I think thats b/s.. when I was shopping for a TL I brought one into my shop for a pre-sale inspection that had no CEL lights on and they found 3 stored. The car came from an auto broker so I wasn't surprised.

So due to your confirmation we should be ordering...
1 x 28600-RKE-004
2 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00

Is that correct then? If so maybe Ravin should update first post...

Kidhova84

Im about to do this same job to my 08 Type-s, just so im clear there are 3 switches, one under car by Vin plate, one under air box, and one behind wheel well???

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

No. The one near the VIN plate is accessed through the wheel well.

There is one under the air box.

The third one is accessed through the back side of the engine between the engine and firewall. That one is the toughest to photograph but probably the easiest to replace.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

here is a pic of my parts... Ravi's post is right... the debate was no one knows which part is the 3rd or 4th gear switch... i still think there are two 4th gear switches which is the 28610...

AMSMiTH

Thank you for clarifying!

So after a few days and plenty of hours of reading on AZ I've bought plenty of Red Line ATF, gear pressure switches, and the fuel pump o-ring. That's a good start on preventive maintenance after only owning my TL for 10 days

Thanks to everyone who helped input all of this knowledge!

fdte320

KamM, your pics show 2 x 28600-RKE-004
1 x 28610-RKE-004. Please verify.

AMSMiTH

that's what he's saying is correct.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^youre correct. his pic is correct.

Kidhova84

How do I access the back side of the engine between the engine and firewall, from under the car?

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^its visible from the top of the engine. you reach straight down below the strut bar area. I found that that was actually one of the easier ones to access.

check out the pictures posted in the DIY. it'll show you what to move to get access to it.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Yeh....and don't drop anything back there. It's a bitch to get to.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

something like that HAD to happen. everything was going so smooth, it's only natural to hit a speed bump.

wojo1988

I just finished my first 1x3 at 85,000 miles and replaced all 3 switches on my 2007 type s. Took about 45 minutes for all of it. Feels good to have done and thanks for this DIY!! I just used oem tranny fluid for my car from the dealer

unlimited

How is the shift quality? Major improvement?

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

It shifts a lot better. I felt that as you accelerate you do not feel the shifts as much and I also felt that there was not any hesitation to shift. The best way I could describe it was that the transmission shifted cleaner.

VanyDotK

iTrader: (6)

Car details:
2008 Acura TL-S with 64xxx miles

Thanks for the DIY, I performed it this morning and here goes some tips and troubles I had.

1. It was a pain in the ASS to remove the connector from each one of the switches, I don't think I have girly weak fingers, but damn maybe I do! I had to use a flathead screw driver to leverage it out while pushing down on the release on the 4th gear switches.

2. I had to remove the strut bar in order to remove the connector from the back 4th gear switch, it gave me a lot of room and it was only 6 12mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts to remove the strut bar. The only thing is I lost one of the 12mm bolts in back of the engine, called the dealership's parts and they'll have one for me tomorrow.

3. When doing the side 4th gear switch I had to remove the ground wire, the bracket for the fuse box AND the 2 10mm nuts and move that plate aside, I have no idea how the hell OP was able to do this without removing those things, props to you!

Overall it was easy but time consuming. Thanks OP for the DIY, it was very helpful. I did not have to use a breaker bar for any of the switches. After I changed the switches I did a 1x3 with 2 bottles of Redline Racing ATF and 1 bottle of Redline D4. I previously had performed a 2x3 with 6 bottles of Redline Racing ATF a few months ago.

So far the shifts feel slightly better, down shifting is less jerky than it used to be and up shifting still has a little jerk to it but not as bad as it used to be. I'll drive some more and report back if anything changes.

vmodi89

are there any members in the Boston, MA area that wanna help me out with this? I would still have no idea what I was doing if i tried it. Can compensate with $$ or

umakemekissu

hey Vinay Hondaa King quoted me $140 to change all 3 sensors... just another option for you to consider

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ if that includes the switches, that is an AWESOME deal