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I realize that this is not an MDX forum however the transmission is near identical I believe. Could anyone comment on the MDX versions of these switches? I'm trying to replace these and for some reason this info doesn't seem to have made its way onto the MDX forums even though we battle the same shi$$y shifting issues as the TL. I've had the software updates applied and done numerous trans fluid refill cycles with no joy. I'm trying to get some corroboration on the part numbers 28610-RAY-013 and 28600-RAY-003 being the right ones?
I realize that this is not an MDX forum however the transmission is near identical I believe. Could anyone comment on the MDX versions of these switches? I'm trying to replace these and for some reason this info doesn't seem to have made its way onto the MDX forums even though we battle the same shi$$y shifting issues as the TL. I've had the software updates applied and done numerous trans fluid refill cycles with no joy. I'm trying to get some corroboration on the part numbers 28610-RAY-013 and 28600-RAY-003 being the right ones?
Thanks. That's where I started but I was hoping I would find an Acura tech who trolls these forums and could confirm or at a minimum agree that these switches are often to blame for this horrible transmission performance. I know... BEAT IT
I have started replacing these switches. I was able to replace the 3rd gear switch (by the driver side wheel) fairly quickly without any issue.
Second, I started working on the switch under the intake. It took me a while to locate it but it was hidden underneath a metal frame. I am having issues opening it up. I have a deep 7/8 socket, but there is a metal wire going across which makes it harder for me to plug in my ratchet into the socket.
What do you guys suggest? I have a 6" extension but there isn't a lot of room to work there. Is there anything else I can get out of the way to have easy access?
I took some pictures of the 4th gear switch behind the transmission, under the strut bar . OP can include this in the original post for reference purposes.
I've done 2/3 switches. The one underneath air intake box will require some time. I found the one behind engine to be the easiest of them all, so if you want to start from there, you will gain some confidence changing the other ones out.
Last edited by mohsinkhan35; 07-28-2016 at 03:31 AM.
I have started replacing these switches. I was able to replace the 3rd gear switch (by the driver side wheel) fairly quickly without any issue.
Second, I started working on the switch under the intake. It took me a while to locate it but it was hidden underneath a metal frame. I am having issues opening it up. I have a deep 7/8 socket, but there is a metal wire going across which makes it harder for me to plug in my ratchet into the socket.
What do you guys suggest? I have a 6" extension but there isn't a lot of room to work there. Is there anything else I can get out of the way to have easy access?
Hopefully I explained it correctly.
I had a really tough time with this as well. Only way I could get it was to take the socket off the wrench and seat it by hand onto the switch. Then you have to finagle your wrench onto the socket. It's not easy.
I was able to replace my 3rd and final switch and I can't believe how easy it was. Thanks Ravi for this excellent DIY, saved me so much time.
Just waiting on headlight ballast and then I will be putting back my car together. I am thinking about changing transmission oil as well but the car has 161,XXX miles and last I changed ATF oil around 142,XXX miles. I've heard not to change ATF frequently as the transmission gets older?
I recently purchased an 08 TL AT w/103k from my SIL, who has followed the factory maint cycles. Car is in good condition, but one of the first things I noticed was the slight delay in downshifting. Glad to find this thread, and I just ordered the 3 switches/gaskets. (Nice tech write up, btw)
My 98 V6 Accord trans chunked at 148k miles, I rebuilt it and my teens are still driving it with 311k miles on the clock. Hoping for better longevity out of this TL slushbox.
II replaced those switches three days ago. It took me about 2 hours to do. The unexpected under metal piece under air box was the hardest - because of amount of space. Thanks mohsinkhan35 for photos !
I got pages from service manual for 2007-2008 claiming we have 2nd, 3rd, and 4th switches. Not two of the 4ths. Anyway it will be one black and two whites just like first post said.
Switches installed, definite improvement in shift crispness. Thanks again for the detailed tutorial, which made the installation simple. I found that unbolting the shift cable bracket provided easy access to the switch on the top of the trans. I also unbolted the fuse box and rotated it out of the way to gain easy access to the rear switch. In doing so, I also found a Snap-on T30 TORX handle wedged between the brake lines below the master cylinder, which appears to have been hitchhiking for a few years.
Just ordered the switches and trans fluid, this thread will definitely help me out. New to the TL Community, and learning about this car as this is my second car, the other being a Mitsubishi Evo 8.
wooooo hooooo! glad i found this, just got my 08 with 86,000 and dont think the switches have been done. The fluid has been changed for sure 18,000 ago, but I have some new fluid ready to swap next weekend and the switches ordered should be here in time so i can do it all at once. She feels great going up gears but down shifts seem a bit harsh, nothing too crazy but figure its enough to do the swaps! Wish me luck!
28610-RKE-004 when I did this switch located on the left fender, I did not find any gaskets. I was wondering if any of you guys have the same situation.. Since when I put the new one in, I placed a gasket and I'm not sure if I did the right thing.
28610-RKE-004 when I did this switch located on the left fender, I did not find any gaskets. I was wondering if any of you guys have the same situation.. Since when I put the new one in, I placed a gasket and I'm not sure if I did the right thing.
did you make sure the gasket wasn't in the transmission perhaps?
28610-RKE-004 when I did this switch located on the left fender, I did not find any gaskets. I was wondering if any of you guys have the same situation.. Since when I put the new one in, I placed a gasket and I'm not sure if I did the right thing.
My guess would be it probably slipped off when you pulled it off. Check in your splash guard on the under side of the car most times ive dropped things they end up on top of the guard. Mine were actually seized to the original switches so check that. Since the threading is smaller than the gasket size I wouldnt worry that it fell in the tranny, you can also look right where the switch screws in to see if the gasket is stuck to the transmission body. if it is youll probably have to scrape at it with a screw driver being careful not to slip in the hole and damage threading.
My guess would be it probably slipped off when you pulled it off. Check in your splash guard on the under side of the car most times ive dropped things they end up on top of the guard. Mine were actually seized to the original switches so check that. Since the threading is smaller than the gasket size I wouldnt worry that it fell in the tranny, you can also look right where the switch screws in to see if the gasket is stuck to the transmission body. if it is youll probably have to scrape at it with a screw driver being careful not to slip in the hole and damage threading.
Sorry that's what i meant, not necessarily IN the transmission, but still on the body itself.
or it could have just fallen without you noticing as well. hard to say now.
Thanks for the responses! So I did take it out tonight to double check and nothing. But I have a new issue, I have trouble threading the switch back in. My only option was to screw the old one back in and it there was some resistance which kind of worried me. I looked at the threads of the new switch and compared it to the old one and they look the same. I don't know if I damaged the threads in the trans housing Did any of you guys have this issue? 28610-RKE-004 im talking about this one on the side of the tranny the once accessed through getting splash guard out of the way.
would like to know if any of you guys have hard time removing the socket from the pressure switches. i was able to located them but couldn't remove the wire socket, seem like they are air tight. if anyone has any tip
thanks in advance
would like to know if any of you guys have hard time removing the socket from the pressure switches. i was able to located them but couldn't remove the wire socket, seem like they are air tight. if anyone has any tip
thanks in advance
Yeah man mine were pretty tough to get off. I just keep squeezing on one of them and got it, that was the wheel well one. the other 2 I was able to get some angled needle nose on the thumb latch and opposing side and gently squeeze it open and slide off. just be careful I slipped with the needle nose on one and about had a heart attack that I snipped the wire, all was well though.
Yeah man mine were pretty tough to get off. I just keep squeezing on one of them and got it, that was the wheel well one. the other 2 I was able to get some angled needle nose on the thumb latch and opposing side and gently squeeze it open and slide off. just be careful I slipped with the needle nose on one and about had a heart attack that I snipped the wire, all was well though.
thanks for the tip, it work out for me too as well. it took me about three hours to do all the switches for the first time but I am sure next time it won't take that long.
thanks to everyone who post their reviews and tips for this DIY, makes a difference to the auto transmission
Just picked up an 08 Type-S. Been looking around AZ and some other sites and see that the oil pressure switches are a common failure and should be replaced. From what I can see on the Acura parts site is that I would need 2x28600-RKE-004 and 1x28610-RKE-004. Can anyone confirm that these are the correct parts needed? I see a ton of listings for 3rd and 4th gear switch replacements, but all with older part numbers and for a base TL. Any info would be great!
Just picked up an 08 Type-S. Been looking around AZ and some other sites and see that the oil pressure switches are a common failure and should be replaced. From what I can see on the Acura parts site is that I would need 2x28600-RKE-004 and 1x28610-RKE-004. Can anyone confirm that these are the correct parts needed? I see a ton of listings for 3rd and 4th gear switch replacements, but all with older part numbers and for a base TL. Any info would be great!
Hello,
I had the same question and concern a few days ago since I picked up a 07 Type S as well. The part numbers that you listed are correct, you are just missing the part number for the 3 new gaskets that you will need for the switches which is 90471-PW7-A00.
I also found this DIY thread for the oil pressure switches: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...2008-a-840630/
OK, for some odd reason, that diy link shows only replacing 2 switches, per the exploded view on the acura parts site, it looks like one of the switches was not shown.
the 3 switches to be replaced are the 2 # 13's and the #14. I didn't see how to access the middle # 13. Did I miss something?
OK, for some odd reason, that diy link shows only replacing 2 switches, per the exploded view on the acura parts site, it looks like one of the switches was not shown.
the 3 switches to be replaced are the 2 # 13's and the #14. I didn't see how to access the middle # 13. Did I miss something?
You are right, I did not see on how to replace that one on the DIY. I am waiting for my switches to arrive, when I do it and find out on how to do that #13 switch I will keep you posted. If you get to it done before me, keep me posted on that switch.
I'm doing mine this evening, as soon as my engine cools...lol. I will take some pics if and when I figure it out. It looks to me that they are in the same vicinity, so I'm hoping I locate them fairly easily.
So I did my 3 switches last evening, So here is my take on how the DIY post portrayed it and how it really went down, and it was pretty challenging. I have enormous hands and arms so I could not even access the "upper/rear" most switch without removing the strut tower brace. So I will back up now and give my best advice for this procedure. this is the view with intake and air box removed....
here is a zoom photo of where the switch is.
In order to remove that switch, you need to disconnect the electrical connector, which was very tricky, I used my right hand to squeeze the connecter clip and my left hand with a long flathead screwdriver to carefully pry the connector off. After that, your on your own to get your 7/8" (or 22mm) deep well socket onto the switch and remove it. I def recommend a 3/8" socket and ratchet, a 1/2" ratchet with a reducer is most likely not going to work.
Next....
very similar pic to the diy post we both saw, but what was left out is that the engine heat cover needs to come off, and unless you have super tiny hands and fingers, so does the strut tower brace. I removed it just to be sure I had enough room. here is zoomed in photo of upper rear most switch.
Once you remove the strut tower brace, access to this one is a breeze! But be careful on your way back in... do not lose the gasket!!!
That is about all the advice I can give, as far as the lower swtich... well the diy link is pretty accurate!!!
I was going to do a 3x drain and fill as well but ran out of time. But after driving it with just the 3 switch replacements I did notice quite an improvement.. most noticeably when decelerating, I no longer get that harsh downshift around 35 mph or so, and I also noticed that when rolling around corners and taking off again, there is no slipping feeling. Best of luck to you!!!
So I did my 3 switches last evening, So here is my take on how the DIY post portrayed it and how it really went down, and it was pretty challenging. I have enormous hands and arms so I could not even access the "upper/rear" most switch without removing the strut tower brace. So I will back up now and give my best advice for this procedure. this is the view with intake and air box removed....
here is a zoom photo of where the switch is.
In order to remove that switch, you need to disconnect the electrical connector, which was very tricky, I used my right hand to squeeze the connecter clip and my left hand with a long flathead screwdriver to carefully pry the connector off. After that, your on your own to get your 7/8" (or 22mm) deep well socket onto the switch and remove it. I def recommend a 3/8" socket and ratchet, a 1/2" ratchet with a reducer is most likely not going to work.
Next....
very similar pic to the diy post we both saw, but what was left out is that the engine heat cover needs to come off, and unless you have super tiny hands and fingers, so does the strut tower brace. I removed it just to be sure I had enough room. here is zoomed in photo of upper rear most switch.
Once you remove the strut tower brace, access to this one is a breeze! But be careful on your way back in... do not lose the gasket!!!
That is about all the advice I can give, as far as the lower swtich... well the diy link is pretty accurate!!!
I was going to do a 3x drain and fill as well but ran out of time. But after driving it with just the 3 switch replacements I did notice quite an improvement.. most noticeably when decelerating, I no longer get that harsh downshift around 35 mph or so, and I also noticed that when rolling around corners and taking off again, there is no slipping feeling. Best of luck to you!!!
I am glad you figure it out and everything went well even though is challenging. I just received the switches in the mail, I will be doing them this week. I appreciate your help and the detailed information, should be very helpful!
If any one of these switches is bad wouldn’t you get a P code on your navigation screen? Why replaced them if they are still good?
It's preventative maintenance. its super easy so why wait for one to fail if you can just swap them out? Waiting for a code isnt really a best practice in most cases I feel.
Thanks to everyone's input on this thread. I'm happy to report that I successfully changed my sensors last night. As many have said, the one under the air box was the most difficult, as my hands are not the smallest. I was still able to get the harness off and the 7/8" socket in there to do the swap. Did a 1x3 ATF change last weekend, another one last night, and will probably finish the 3x3 tonight and be done with this round of preventative maintenance.
07-20-2016, 11:05 AM
hard to say now.
Did any of you guys have this issue? 28610-RKE-004 im talking about this one on the side of the tranny the once accessed through getting splash guard out of the way.
