AccordFlex Turbo TL-S 6MT Build Thread-Updated 12/9/15 - Dyno/pics page 5
05-08-2013, 12:45 PM
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AccordFlex Turbo TL-S 6MT Build Thread-Updated 12/9/15 - Dyno/pics page 5
Sooo.... Long story short, I bought Bmeyer's J&R Turbo kit. Im gonna use this thread to setup a build log of my progress. I won't have the turbo in for a few months most likely, just because I need a few other things like injectors, wideband, controller and a few other pieces. Injectors I will most likely go with the RDX 410CC and modify them to be around 720CC.
I just ordered Hondata FlashPro yesterday as well so that is on its way. I will have the FlashPro installed with an etune before the turbo goes on and from there I will have Hill's Garage, who does my dyno pulls tune the car for me. He's a very experiences tuner who owned a shop down in Miami for about 20 years then moved to a smaller, more focused shop who specializes in BMW, Nissan and Infiniti. Frank Smith's very familiar with turbo builds and knows how to tune on FlashPro as well, plus he's toyed around with my car a few times.
AEM wideband and controller is what I will most likely go with, not a huge fan of Bosch, but i'll be doing a fair amount more research on that before the purchase it made. Fuel pump wise, I will most likely be modifying a Walbro fuel pump to make the casing fit.
The kit only has 2500 miles on it and is in great shape, will need new heat shrink wrap on one pipe, so I will be replacing that as well.
For starters my goal with this build is a modest 400whp. My car currently has PCDs, Jpipe, XLR8 catback, 3.7L manifold port matched to PnP lower runners, and the ZDX TB. Also has XLR8 mounts and a stage 3 Clutch Master clutch with OEM flywheel witch only has 3k miles on them so far, so nice and strong. I only want to stick around 400whp once I have the kit on for a few reasons... A. so I can save up for the rods/pistons and other bottom end parts. B. because I want to have my extra set of TL-S cams reground by Bisi for the turbo build, and C. I dont want to break anything before I do some of the other supporting mods which are a lot more in depth. I know the kit would be capable of around 450whp+ with my mods and upwards of 550+ with more $$, but I dont want to over-do it before I make sure the car can handle that kind of power.
The car made 285whp corrected on a Dyno Dynamics system with only exhaust bolt ons and AEM V2. After I put on the 3.7L mani, runners, and TB, Mounts, and clutch it only made 274whp due to the car running rich which was in the 12's for A/F ratio. So once that is corrected with the FlashPro, I should be in the 300-310whp mark before the turbo kit goes on.
Anyways, just wanted to throw this out there and I will be updating this thread with my official build pics and info as I come along the way with everything. Any constructive criticism, and tech help is always welcome
-Shayne
I just ordered Hondata FlashPro yesterday as well so that is on its way. I will have the FlashPro installed with an etune before the turbo goes on and from there I will have Hill's Garage, who does my dyno pulls tune the car for me. He's a very experiences tuner who owned a shop down in Miami for about 20 years then moved to a smaller, more focused shop who specializes in BMW, Nissan and Infiniti. Frank Smith's very familiar with turbo builds and knows how to tune on FlashPro as well, plus he's toyed around with my car a few times.
AEM wideband and controller is what I will most likely go with, not a huge fan of Bosch, but i'll be doing a fair amount more research on that before the purchase it made. Fuel pump wise, I will most likely be modifying a Walbro fuel pump to make the casing fit.
The kit only has 2500 miles on it and is in great shape, will need new heat shrink wrap on one pipe, so I will be replacing that as well.
For starters my goal with this build is a modest 400whp. My car currently has PCDs, Jpipe, XLR8 catback, 3.7L manifold port matched to PnP lower runners, and the ZDX TB. Also has XLR8 mounts and a stage 3 Clutch Master clutch with OEM flywheel witch only has 3k miles on them so far, so nice and strong. I only want to stick around 400whp once I have the kit on for a few reasons... A. so I can save up for the rods/pistons and other bottom end parts. B. because I want to have my extra set of TL-S cams reground by Bisi for the turbo build, and C. I dont want to break anything before I do some of the other supporting mods which are a lot more in depth. I know the kit would be capable of around 450whp+ with my mods and upwards of 550+ with more $$, but I dont want to over-do it before I make sure the car can handle that kind of power.
The car made 285whp corrected on a Dyno Dynamics system with only exhaust bolt ons and AEM V2. After I put on the 3.7L mani, runners, and TB, Mounts, and clutch it only made 274whp due to the car running rich which was in the 12's for A/F ratio. So once that is corrected with the FlashPro, I should be in the 300-310whp mark before the turbo kit goes on.
Anyways, just wanted to throw this out there and I will be updating this thread with my official build pics and info as I come along the way with everything. Any constructive criticism, and tech help is always welcome
-Shayne
Last edited by AccordFlex; 05-08-2013 at 12:50 PM.
05-08-2013, 12:49 PM
#2
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dude...how did you NOT mention this to me at the meet last sunday???
oh and small world, my buddy vinny at work knows you as well.
hope the build goes smoothly!
sub'd.
oh and small world, my buddy vinny at work knows you as well.
hope the build goes smoothly!
sub'd.
05-08-2013, 12:58 PM
#5
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And are you talking about Vinny with the Mini S? If so, yes I went to grade school and still talk to him from time to time.
Yes, I will be eventually. I want to get new Wiseco Pistons and Pauter Rods to put in which is why i will be playing it very safe until I have those parts ready.
05-08-2013, 01:01 PM
#6
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and yeah that would be the vinny i'm referring to.
05-08-2013, 01:03 PM
#7
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indeed, I'm excited! 
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05-08-2013, 02:38 PM
#8
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Tell me about it! I dont even have the kit yet and im stoked!
05-08-2013, 03:20 PM
#9
I'm not sure about the other guys doing internals, but so far, both libert69 and bmeyer have found that 4th gear is not holding up to that kind of hp and/or torque.
With the both of them now out of the game and possibly only a couple others doing internals, the cost of a special run from mfactory is going to be expensive.
I am still on the fence about beefing up the rods, pistons and deck, but I won't be shooting for the numbers they were producing.
Good luck with the build. Even at the modest power levels, it's a blast to drive.
With the both of them now out of the game and possibly only a couple others doing internals, the cost of a special run from mfactory is going to be expensive.
I am still on the fence about beefing up the rods, pistons and deck, but I won't be shooting for the numbers they were producing.
Good luck with the build. Even at the modest power levels, it's a blast to drive.
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AccordFlex (05-08-2013)
05-08-2013, 04:38 PM
#11
I honestly think that the boosted stroker motor was the major cause for the 4th gear failures. It would also explain why most of the 3.2L guys haven't had an issue. I think that 400whp can be done and still have the trans be somewhat reliable. You still need to watch the number of 4th gear WOT pulls that you make though. As was stated, 4th gear does indeed appear to be the one with the least amount of "meat" on it which is a shame. There are several other parts in the trans that look like they would hold 500 ft/lbs of torque.
KN_TL and Hi speed, I would love to see a dyno graph from you guys to better understand where the torque threshold is for the trans. I understand you may not have any, the point is that I'd just be curious to see the numbers and do some calculations based off of them.
Anyway, I think AccordFlex has a good mindset going into it all. He's got a nice list of supporting "base" mods, and very realistic goals off the bat. I know you'll hit those numbers without too much issue. I'd say that when you pick up the rods and pistons, stick with 3.2L parts and you should be (mostly) safe as far as reliability goes. Just don't get too greedy.
I definitely can't wait to see what the kit will put down with the FlashPro. I'm just sorry I never got the chance.
On a side note, those were quite decent numbers for the DD dyno. They're known to read even lower than Mustang dynos, however, having seen the features in them personally, I believe they're definitely one of the nicer setups you can get your hands on. That's what I always dyno'd my setup on. I never got the colossal #'s I was hoping for (600whp), however I think that the DD aided the tuner in getting me a great tune that was apparently more than many of the parts could handle. I would have felt confident putting my car up against kikazz's any day of the week.
KN_TL and Hi speed, I would love to see a dyno graph from you guys to better understand where the torque threshold is for the trans. I understand you may not have any, the point is that I'd just be curious to see the numbers and do some calculations based off of them.
Anyway, I think AccordFlex has a good mindset going into it all. He's got a nice list of supporting "base" mods, and very realistic goals off the bat. I know you'll hit those numbers without too much issue. I'd say that when you pick up the rods and pistons, stick with 3.2L parts and you should be (mostly) safe as far as reliability goes. Just don't get too greedy.
I definitely can't wait to see what the kit will put down with the FlashPro. I'm just sorry I never got the chance.On a side note, those were quite decent numbers for the DD dyno. They're known to read even lower than Mustang dynos, however, having seen the features in them personally, I believe they're definitely one of the nicer setups you can get your hands on. That's what I always dyno'd my setup on. I never got the colossal #'s I was hoping for (600whp), however I think that the DD aided the tuner in getting me a great tune that was apparently more than many of the parts could handle. I would have felt confident putting my car up against kikazz's any day of the week.
Last edited by bmeyer; 05-08-2013 at 04:46 PM.
05-08-2013, 07:10 PM
#14
2008 TL Type-S
Good luck with the build, do you have E85 locally to you? 11:1 comp is doable on pump gas (new motor going in my Integ is 11.5:1 lol) but one bad tank and your going to have problems if you dont catch it quick enough.
I am new to TL's and their quirks... I thought the trans would hold more then you guys are saying it would hold. I been building B series motors for a decade, I know many people that use heat treated stock gears in the B series tranny's with a combo of a certain MTF and a Redline additive and those guys keep those trannys together making upwards of 1000whp for 15-25hits down the track on slicks.
I believe the guy that does the heat treating is named racersteve on honda-tech, might be something to look into...
I am new to TL's and their quirks... I thought the trans would hold more then you guys are saying it would hold. I been building B series motors for a decade, I know many people that use heat treated stock gears in the B series tranny's with a combo of a certain MTF and a Redline additive and those guys keep those trannys together making upwards of 1000whp for 15-25hits down the track on slicks.
I believe the guy that does the heat treating is named racersteve on honda-tech, might be something to look into...
Last edited by TurboGSR96; 05-08-2013 at 07:12 PM.
05-08-2013, 07:12 PM
#15
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I'm not sure about the other guys doing internals, but so far, both libert69 and bmeyer have found that 4th gear is not holding up to that kind of hp and/or torque.
With the both of them now out of the game and possibly only a couple others doing internals, the cost of a special run from mfactory is going to be expensive.
I am still on the fence about beefing up the rods, pistons and deck, but I won't be shooting for the numbers they were producing.
Good luck with the build. Even at the modest power levels, it's a blast to drive.
With the both of them now out of the game and possibly only a couple others doing internals, the cost of a special run from mfactory is going to be expensive.
I am still on the fence about beefing up the rods, pistons and deck, but I won't be shooting for the numbers they were producing.
Good luck with the build. Even at the modest power levels, it's a blast to drive.
I honestly think that the boosted stroker motor was the major cause for the 4th gear failures. It would also explain why most of the 3.2L guys haven't had an issue. I think that 400whp can be done and still have the trans be somewhat reliable. You still need to watch the number of 4th gear WOT pulls that you make though. As was stated, 4th gear does indeed appear to be the one with the least amount of "meat" on it which is a shame. There are several other parts in the trans that look like they would hold 500 ft/lbs of torque.
KN_TL and Hi speed, I would love to see a dyno graph from you guys to better understand where the torque threshold is for the trans. I understand you may not have any, the point is that I'd just be curious to see the numbers and do some calculations based off of them.
Anyway, I think AccordFlex has a good mindset going into it all. He's got a nice list of supporting "base" mods, and very realistic goals off the bat. I know you'll hit those numbers without too much issue. I'd say that when you pick up the rods and pistons, stick with 3.2L parts and you should be (mostly) safe as far as reliability goes. Just don't get too greedy. I definitely can't wait to see what the kit will put down with the FlashPro. I'm just sorry I never got the chance.
On a side note, those were quite decent numbers for the DD dyno. They're known to read even lower than Mustang dynos, however, having seen the features in them personally, I believe they're definitely one of the nicer setups you can get your hands on. That's what I always dyno'd my setup on. I never got the colossal #'s I was hoping for (600whp), however I think that the DD aided the tuner in getting me a great tune that was apparently more than many of the parts could handle. I would have felt confident putting my car up against kikazz's any day of the week.
KN_TL and Hi speed, I would love to see a dyno graph from you guys to better understand where the torque threshold is for the trans. I understand you may not have any, the point is that I'd just be curious to see the numbers and do some calculations based off of them.
Anyway, I think AccordFlex has a good mindset going into it all. He's got a nice list of supporting "base" mods, and very realistic goals off the bat. I know you'll hit those numbers without too much issue. I'd say that when you pick up the rods and pistons, stick with 3.2L parts and you should be (mostly) safe as far as reliability goes. Just don't get too greedy.
I definitely can't wait to see what the kit will put down with the FlashPro. I'm just sorry I never got the chance.On a side note, those were quite decent numbers for the DD dyno. They're known to read even lower than Mustang dynos, however, having seen the features in them personally, I believe they're definitely one of the nicer setups you can get your hands on. That's what I always dyno'd my setup on. I never got the colossal #'s I was hoping for (600whp), however I think that the DD aided the tuner in getting me a great tune that was apparently more than many of the parts could handle. I would have felt confident putting my car up against kikazz's any day of the week.
05-08-2013, 10:14 PM
#16
Car looks good. One issue not often mentioned is how low the down pipe coming off the turbo sits. My car at stock 6 MT height will scrape on even small speed bumps if not careful. It looks like you are pretty low and will want to think about raising the car up before you install. The upside to 11:1 comp and boost is the instant spool and lack of low comp lag while not in boost that most turbo engines have. I am really impressed at how well the car does with the turbo.
05-09-2013, 08:38 AM
#18
WOW! love the colour. I have the same rims, looks great on the red. Already loving it bro. Cant wait to see the progress.
You think about matching the lugs to the colour of the car? that would be hot!
Maybe even paint brembos so they stand out more..get the rdx caliper covers for rear
I also think a black grill would look amazing with the black and red theme you have going
on
I also spotted sharkies car next to yours
You think about matching the lugs to the colour of the car? that would be hot!
Maybe even paint brembos so they stand out more..get the rdx caliper covers for rear
I also think a black grill would look amazing with the black and red theme you have going
on
I also spotted sharkies car next to yours
Last edited by TL Seth; 05-09-2013 at 08:49 AM.
05-09-2013, 04:24 PM
#19
He's got the redesigned piping so the downpipe may be in a better position than the original kits.
I've got mine out right now and should be able to tuck it right next to the crossover pipe. Just got a 3x3 radius bend today that I hope will clear the tranny bolts.
I've got mine out right now and should be able to tuck it right next to the crossover pipe. Just got a 3x3 radius bend today that I hope will clear the tranny bolts.
05-09-2013, 04:28 PM
#20
The downpipe tuck on the V2 kit (or whatever the hell it was at that point) definitely seems better. I did have the heat wrap on my Y-pipe (under the oil pan, connects the cylinder banks) tear a bit, but I actually wonder if it was because I left a sharp edge on the splash guard tabs that you have to remove. It never did any damage to the piping itself which helps to support that theory.
05-10-2013, 10:58 PM
#22
Team Owner
As always, monitor knock, there is nothing more important if you want to keep the engine together.
If you end up doing internals, lower the compression. With no turbo, 11:1 compression, and 91 octane these cars are already prone to detonation. Most of the turbo guys seem to do things to make the boost come in later to save stock internals anyway. Lower compression does not make the bottom much softer, its doubtful it would be noticeable at all. What it does is allow normal timing and AFRs on pump gas.
If you stick with stock internals and compression, keep an eye on detonation and use meth injection for added protection. Running excessively rich and retarding timing too much due to high stock compression and pump gas is hard on the engine and the meth will not only give additional octane, cooling, and fuel but it will allow proper AFR and timing.
If you end up doing internals, lower the compression. With no turbo, 11:1 compression, and 91 octane these cars are already prone to detonation. Most of the turbo guys seem to do things to make the boost come in later to save stock internals anyway. Lower compression does not make the bottom much softer, its doubtful it would be noticeable at all. What it does is allow normal timing and AFRs on pump gas.
If you stick with stock internals and compression, keep an eye on detonation and use meth injection for added protection. Running excessively rich and retarding timing too much due to high stock compression and pump gas is hard on the engine and the meth will not only give additional octane, cooling, and fuel but it will allow proper AFR and timing.
05-14-2013, 12:39 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
I am new to TL's and their quirks... I thought the trans would hold more then you guys are saying it would hold. I been building B series motors for a decade, I know many people that use heat treated stock gears in the B series tranny's with a combo of a certain MTF and a Redline additive and those guys keep those trannys together making upwards of 1000whp for 15-25hits down the track on slicks.
Remember that Honda has and always will be an ALL-MOTOR engine. As oppose to Nissan and Toyota they can put on more boost on their transmissions than a Honda tranny would.
05-18-2013, 11:26 AM
#26
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WOW! love the colour. I have the same rims, looks great on the red. Already loving it bro. Cant wait to see the progress.
You think about matching the lugs to the colour of the car? that would be hot!
Maybe even paint brembos so they stand out more..get the rdx caliper covers for rear
I also think a black grill would look amazing with the black and red theme you have going
on
I also spotted sharkies car next to yours
You think about matching the lugs to the colour of the car? that would be hot!
Maybe even paint brembos so they stand out more..get the rdx caliper covers for rear
I also think a black grill would look amazing with the black and red theme you have going
on
I also spotted sharkies car next to yours
As always, monitor knock, there is nothing more important if you want to keep the engine together.
If you end up doing internals, lower the compression. With no turbo, 11:1 compression, and 91 octane these cars are already prone to detonation. Most of the turbo guys seem to do things to make the boost come in later to save stock internals anyway. Lower compression does not make the bottom much softer, its doubtful it would be noticeable at all. What it does is allow normal timing and AFRs on pump gas.
If you stick with stock internals and compression, keep an eye on detonation and use meth injection for added protection. Running excessively rich and retarding timing too much due to high stock compression and pump gas is hard on the engine and the meth will not only give additional octane, cooling, and fuel but it will allow proper AFR and timing.
If you end up doing internals, lower the compression. With no turbo, 11:1 compression, and 91 octane these cars are already prone to detonation. Most of the turbo guys seem to do things to make the boost come in later to save stock internals anyway. Lower compression does not make the bottom much softer, its doubtful it would be noticeable at all. What it does is allow normal timing and AFRs on pump gas.
If you stick with stock internals and compression, keep an eye on detonation and use meth injection for added protection. Running excessively rich and retarding timing too much due to high stock compression and pump gas is hard on the engine and the meth will not only give additional octane, cooling, and fuel but it will allow proper AFR and timing.
Appreciate the kind words!
Tuning is the most important key to all of this. Keep in mind: the turbo engine's number one killer is detonation. Don't worry what he said. If you've been building B-series, LS-V, B20V, B18C', H2b, etc, it's all the same concept. K20's have weak transmissions from the start as it pops out on third on some models before the recall fixed this.
Remember that Honda has and always will be an ALL-MOTOR engine. As oppose to Nissan and Toyota they can put on more boost on their transmissions than a Honda tranny would.
Remember that Honda has and always will be an ALL-MOTOR engine. As oppose to Nissan and Toyota they can put on more boost on their transmissions than a Honda tranny would.
05-19-2013, 02:00 AM
#27
Yea once I get the kit on, I may put some of my funds into figuring out a solution for 4th gear so I have that peace of mind.
Thanks again for everything Brandon. I know this kit will be a lot of fun. And definitely love the DD dyno, seems to be a great platform to use and very simple.
Thank you! Appreciate the support!
Heres a starting picture of the car for you
Thanks again for everything Brandon. I know this kit will be a lot of fun. And definitely love the DD dyno, seems to be a great platform to use and very simple.
Thank you! Appreciate the support!
Heres a starting picture of the car for you
05-22-2013, 09:32 AM
#28
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Purple TL-S is Sharksbreath at the MEGA meet a few weeks ago.
Also purchased a fuel return setup from Bmeyer as well which includes P2R fuel rails, Aeromotive FPR, Russell Braided lines etc.
Also purchased a fuel return setup from Bmeyer as well which includes P2R fuel rails, Aeromotive FPR, Russell Braided lines etc.
08-29-2013, 08:11 PM
#29
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Some updates for my turbo build. Pretty much have all the needed parts minus my ID1000cc injectors and my AEM wideband. Just need to save up some more funds for those things. Other than that, not much else I need.
On with the pictures...
Full turbo kit, plus all the added goodies.
Earls Oil cooling system, AEM FPR, HKS valve and SS lines
Drilled oil pan
Exhaust manifold piping, all heat wrapped.
Intercooler
Tial purge valve, dump tube, random clamps and walbro fuel pump
Precision turbo, intercooler piping, and HKS Super Sequential
Precision turbo
HKS boost controller and matching HKS turbo timer
P2R Fuel Rails
Turbo vs. my head.
On with the pictures...
Full turbo kit, plus all the added goodies.
Earls Oil cooling system, AEM FPR, HKS valve and SS lines
Drilled oil pan
Exhaust manifold piping, all heat wrapped.
Intercooler
Tial purge valve, dump tube, random clamps and walbro fuel pump
Precision turbo, intercooler piping, and HKS Super Sequential
Precision turbo
HKS boost controller and matching HKS turbo timer
P2R Fuel Rails
Turbo vs. my head.
08-29-2013, 10:05 PM
#30
Team Owner
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08-30-2013, 02:54 AM
#32
turbo 5858 ??????
08-30-2013, 09:11 AM
#33
It's a 62xx, I think mine is a 6230, 62mm journaled bearing unit.
Please excuse my laziness in checking if you already mentioned this, but are you already built or running on stock internals. Bmeyer even used AN fittings on the wastegate. You got a top notch kit!
I find it interesting that the build in Canada actually raised the CR for off boost performance.....
I'm experiencing extreme blow by and need to do something fairly soon.
Please excuse my laziness in checking if you already mentioned this, but are you already built or running on stock internals. Bmeyer even used AN fittings on the wastegate. You got a top notch kit!
I find it interesting that the build in Canada actually raised the CR for off boost performance.....
I'm experiencing extreme blow by and need to do something fairly soon.
08-30-2013, 11:47 AM
#34
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It's a 62xx, I think mine is a 6230, 62mm journaled bearing unit.
Please excuse my laziness in checking if you already mentioned this, but are you already built or running on stock internals. Bmeyer even used AN fittings on the wastegate. You got a top notch kit!
I find it interesting that the build in Canada actually raised the CR for off boost performance.....
I'm experiencing extreme blow by and need to do something fairly soon.
Please excuse my laziness in checking if you already mentioned this, but are you already built or running on stock internals. Bmeyer even used AN fittings on the wastegate. You got a top notch kit!
I find it interesting that the build in Canada actually raised the CR for off boost performance.....
I'm experiencing extreme blow by and need to do something fairly soon.
And not built on internals yet. That is the plan in the next year. For now I am going to be running on very low boost, most likely 4-6lbs to play it safe and break the motor in and have a bit more fun. The hard part for me will be getting the electronics side of the kit installed such as the turbo timer, and boost controller. I dont want to rush things as I want to do everything right. Internals will come in due time, just gonna recuperate some funds after this huge buy.
And when i got the kit, i was amazed at the quality of parts. Everything looks like its nearly brand new. Hats off to Brandon for helping me with this and sending me such an awesome kit.
08-30-2013, 11:49 AM
#35
Race Director
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I believe 'jealous' is the word.
09-02-2013, 08:35 AM
#36
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Just ordered my ID1000cc injectors. Scrapped the RDX injector idea, figured Id have more room to up the fuel later down the road plus I dont want to deal with modding them when I already have so much work ahead of me.
09-02-2013, 08:46 AM
#37
Team Owner
It's a 62xx, I think mine is a 6230, 62mm journaled bearing unit.
Please excuse my laziness in checking if you already mentioned this, but are you already built or running on stock internals. Bmeyer even used AN fittings on the wastegate. You got a top notch kit!
I find it interesting that the build in Canada actually raised the CR for off boost performance.....
I'm experiencing extreme blow by and need to do something fairly soon.
Please excuse my laziness in checking if you already mentioned this, but are you already built or running on stock internals. Bmeyer even used AN fittings on the wastegate. You got a top notch kit!
I find it interesting that the build in Canada actually raised the CR for off boost performance.....
I'm experiencing extreme blow by and need to do something fairly soon.
I had an engine with a ton of blowby that got worse and worse until it dropped a cylinder. Had a dead miss when driving normally. It took about 10 seconds for the turbo to spool but once it hit 10psi or more the dead cylinder would light off and it didn't feel down on power.
Are you going with some nice internals or is it going to be a stock-ish rebuild? Just PLEASE don't increase compression. A whole point of compression is worth less than a 3% increase in power while a whole point drop will allow about 5psi additional boost on the same octane. The first 1psi increase more than makes up for the compression drop. A 2 point decrease would be hard to feel off boost. The main reason compression is so high on these engines is for the mpg. You will lose mpg when driving off boost but pick it up again under boost.
09-03-2013, 07:47 AM
#38
Just turn the boost up to make up for it lol.
I had an engine with a ton of blowby that got worse and worse until it dropped a cylinder. Had a dead miss when driving normally. It took about 10 seconds for the turbo to spool but once it hit 10psi or more the dead cylinder would light off and it didn't feel down on power.
Are you going with some nice internals or is it going to be a stock-ish rebuild? Just PLEASE don't increase compression. A whole point of compression is worth less than a 3% increase in power while a whole point drop will allow about 5psi additional boost on the same octane. The first 1psi increase more than makes up for the compression drop. A 2 point decrease would be hard to feel off boost. The main reason compression is so high on these engines is for the mpg. You will lose mpg when driving off boost but pick it up again under boost.
I had an engine with a ton of blowby that got worse and worse until it dropped a cylinder. Had a dead miss when driving normally. It took about 10 seconds for the turbo to spool but once it hit 10psi or more the dead cylinder would light off and it didn't feel down on power.
Are you going with some nice internals or is it going to be a stock-ish rebuild? Just PLEASE don't increase compression. A whole point of compression is worth less than a 3% increase in power while a whole point drop will allow about 5psi additional boost on the same octane. The first 1psi increase more than makes up for the compression drop. A 2 point decrease would be hard to feel off boost. The main reason compression is so high on these engines is for the mpg. You will lose mpg when driving off boost but pick it up again under boost.
I was planning on going just forged rods and pistons and I will take your advice and drop the compression.
Thanks for the info.
09-05-2013, 01:04 AM
#39
Racer
This build is awesome, looking forward to the dyno run when its all installed. My friend is running about 10 lbs on his Lotus with stock internals and is doing fine so far, the key is in the tuning.
