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Now that I have your attention, I'm having a serious WTF moment.
A few months ago, while the weather was above freezing here, I decided to wash the car. A day or two later, the temperatures dropped significantly, causing two of my windows to freeze in place. Well, I had the brilliant idea of toggling the switch for one of the rear windows, up and down, up and down, hoping to break the ice. Instead, what ended up happening is the power window motor stopped making any sound whatsoever. Great.
At first, I checked the fuses. The rear window fuses both seemed to be ok. I even swapped them around to see if it made a difference, and sure enough, both fuses worked on the one working rear window.
So then I figured I must've burned the power window motor out and I ordered a new assembly. I swapped it in and upon turning the car on, I noticed the rear power window switch wasn't lighting up. Sure enough, I hit the button, and nothing happens. I once again swapped the fuses... I pulled the one for the working rear window and hit the switch. I sure enough could hear a relay clicking, but obviously it wasn't moving. When I tried the same for the broken window, there was no click at all.
So I figured I must've blown the relay in the rear switch. I bought a new switch from Acura, just installed it, reconnected the door harnesses and it's STILL not getting power to the switch!
I've checked the wiring harness within the door, and everything looks to be as normal. I don't see anything out of the ordinary. So what in the world is the issue?! I've replaced the fuse, the window motor and the rear window switch and still nothing!! does anyone have any clue on what I should check next or try next? I'm so lost!!
Is it the main drivers side switch that is the problem? I didn't think it would have a relay in it though. I thought there was only one relay per window, so the drivers switch, even though has four switches, it only has one relay for the drivers window, while the other three have relays at each respective door.
Am i wrong on this? Should I have just replaced the drivers side main quad switch?
I have very very limited electrical knowledge (hence why I'm blindly buying and replacing pieces), so if anyone has any idea, I would greatly appreciate your input!!
So I decided to pull the drivers side quad switch. No relays in there at all... at least not like the kind that are on sale (for the windows) on rockauto.
I dont know jack about relays or anything......but have you checked to make sure you haven't locked the other windows from the drivers side? If that window button is pushed down, no other window buttons will light up or open/close.
Yes, lol. I was scrolling the other windows up and down, yet the one rear window still doesn't light up. I checked that's switch a couple times, just to be sure.
Does the 3G TL have a MICU? That's the raw bugger that always seems to crap out on the TSX whenever there is a common seeming electrical problem that is not actually the obvious solution.
Since you seem to have done the parts swapping checkout and the switch and motor are both okay, it's got to be something in between. I dorked around with my window switches a while back and they weren't behaving like I expected. I'm 90% sure it's my MICU.
All the window switches have an LED.. let's be clear here. Is it the driver's side rear or passenger's side rear?
Does the switch on that door for that window light up? Is it only the LED on multiplexor unit for the driver's control switch?
These details are important because you have two domains here.. power and logic.
If the switches to those windows light up, then you have power (fuses 24 / 25).
The issue is with the MICU or multiplexor.
All the window switches have an LED.. let's be clear here. Is it the driver's side rear or passenger's side rear?
Does the switch on that door for that window light up? Is it only the LED on multiplexor unit for the driver's control switch?
it is the drivers rear window that does not work. The rear door switch does not light up. All other switches do (including the same switch at the drivers door). It appears there is no power going to the drivers side rear door.
Originally Posted by Majofo
These details are important because you have two domains here.. power and logic.
If the switches to those windows light up, then you have power (fuses 24 / 25).
The issue is with the MICU or multiplexor.
im surprised I would've burned the multiplex out and not the fuse. Damn.
The rear door? But I've literally replaced everything, save for the wire harness in there. New switch. New motor and window raising/lowering mechanism. That's why I was like "wtf is going on?!"
So I figured the only items left is the drivers door quad switch (the one with all four window buttons on it), or potentially the multipas.. Er.. Multiplex.
One more question just to be crystal clear, the passenger's side door switch is lit (fam) correct?
wait, what? Ok, let's clarify (in clockwise order):
drivers front door switches: everything is lit (fam)
passenger front door switch: everything is lit (fam)
passenger rear door switch: everything is lit (fam)
drivers rear door switch: nothing is lit.
Okay perfect.. because the main relay powers both the rears, so if the fuse is good on both (24, 25) then we know that line isn't the problem.
The driver's side has two control signals from the driver's side mux control unit (brown - up) (brown / white - down), which are isolated and all relays on the door switch go to a common ground.
That pic I posted is all the pinouts.
I'm not 100% because the SM lists the same line numbering between left and right but that figure lists the connector lines swapped on the passenger side.
Anyways, it should be as shown below, you can check the orientation of the connector and the color of the wire to verify:
1 - BROWN (UP from MUX CTRL)
2 - BROWN / WHITE (DOWN from MUX CTRL)
3 - RED / YELLOW - PWR from main relay
4 - BLUE / YELLOW - Door Relay Switch (UP)
5 - BLUE - Door Relay Switch (DOWN)
6 - BLACK - GND
Before anything, use your multimeter and test the voltage across 3-6, 1-6, and 2-6.
Dilythium crystals are known to degrade in these cars after so many years as well... They power the flux capacitor so better check them too. Report back when done.
Okay perfect.. because the main relay powers both the rears, so if the fuse is good on both (24, 25) then we know that line isn't the problem.
The driver's side has two control signals from the driver's side mux control unit (brown - up) (brown / white - down), which are isolated and all relays on the door switch go to a common ground.
That pic I posted is all the pinouts.
I'm not 100% because the SM lists the same line numbering between left and right but that figure lists the connector lines swapped on the passenger side.
Anyways, it should be as shown below, you can check the orientation of the connector and the color of the wire to verify:
1 - BROWN (UP from MUX CTRL)
2 - BROWN / WHITE (DOWN from MUX CTRL)
3 - RED / YELLOW - PWR from main relay
4 - BLUE / YELLOW - Door Relay Switch (UP)
5 - BLUE - Door Relay Switch (DOWN)
6 - BLACK - GND
Before anything, use your multimeter and test the voltage across 3-6, 1-6, and 2-6.
Ok, reviving this thread back from the dead, I finally had a chance to test the plug going into the rear door window switch.
As per the above instructions, these are the readings my multimeter spit out:
10-11v is a little low since it's coming from the battery and it drops directly on the LED on the door. 3-6 is yellow/red wire and black correct?
3 is the main power rail, 1 and 2 are wired directly to the up and down relay on the door in parallel with the switches on the passenger door.
Just for shits, can you check the other passenger door voltage on 3-6 (yellow/blue wire + black wire, might be different orientation 1-4)
If the switch is shorted on the passenger door, it could explain several things. Check continuity on the door side of the connector (female side?) between 3-4, 3-5, and 3-6.
Also, there's a control unit reset, did you do this?
ok, I will attempt to do the control unit reset this evening. No, I haven't done it- I wasn't even aware there was such a thing.
I'm not overly concerned about the lower voltage- it could be for a number of reasons- one thing I noticed was that I had to use metal wires for my multimeter, as my connectors would not fit into the electrical clip. Depending on the wire I used, I would get a different reading. It may have been as simple as there was a thin coating on some of the wires (I started off using rebar tie wire and it had some kind of coating on it, though the wire itself didn't work very well due to how thick it was)- After that, I used those grocery store twist tie things- I just burned the paper coating off- I wonder if that would give a lower reading then if it was just bare metal as I think it left a very very thin coating on the wire, from the flame.
As far as the switch connector at the door is concerned, it went like this:
I didn't follow the original diagram you posted regarding the numbers 1 through 6, as that connector is for the window motor. We've been as of late talking about the switch connector, which not only looks different, but the numbering of 1 through 6 is different. What I did do though is just test the colored wires you indicated (I hope that makes sense).
So what I did is I left one of the multimeter leads connected to the ground wire (black), and then I connected the other multimeter lead to brown, then to brown/white, then to red/yellow. Regardless of what number each wire is 1-6, that in itself shouldn't matter, as long as I'm actually testing the wires you indicated... right? lol.
I don't want to test the other door if I don't have to- not that I cant, but it just increases the likelihood of developing a rattle somewhere in there, which I'd like to avoid. If you really want me to, I can.. it just kind of seems unnecessary.
Well, without any more data points, I think it's the rear window switch that is bad. I'll check the board on the mux ctrl since it could be there and routed to the switch, but I think the power window circuit and relays are a part of that switch. Do the reset first! The timing procedure needs to be done as described.
Did the switch have a small board on it or just a switch and connector. If it's just a switch, then the relays and logic is on the main mux ctrl board. Better hope that reset procedure does the trick. Much more likely if that's the case.
I'm curious about this window reset- When I was replacing my CMC, I had to remove the battery and at the same time I removed the front and rear door panel and unplugged both... wouldn't that reset everything anyway? I haven't had a chance to reset the window switch yet, but I dunno, it doesn't sound like it would do much.
Also, the rear window switch did have a small circuit board in it. So since I replaced the rear switch with a brand new OEM one already, is this narrowing it down to being the driver's door quad switch?
Finally, when I tested the voltage going to the brown and brown/white wires (MUX CTRL Up and MUX CTRL Down), it just occurred to me- wouldn't those have a voltage reading of 0, unless the switch was actuated? Or am I out to lunch?
Here's the diagram of the switch, if the relays are on the switch and it's new, the reg voltage is too low or it's not wired properly (check the ground).
I'm kind of confused by the reset... So by following the steps for the driver window, it will reset the whole thing? I obviously can't do the reset for the non working window. I can't raise it all the way up, or down, as it states. Or am I being a total tool?
02-11-2017, 12:26 PM
