RayRay10

I've got one, hit me up w/ your email address

jerzeygroove

Did anyone use this yet http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...ductId=183011? If this worked, please post some pics or a diagram on how to install it. If it didn't work, where can i get the 4 of the single pole relays you mentioned. I am thinking of getting the y-cable and splice it from there instead of the original cables.....i don't want to do surgery on my car.

bryanb

I'm attempting to use the y-cable too. I'm at the point where I need to get behind the head unit. I'll let you know how it goes.

Bryan

bryanb

I PM'd you my email address.

Thanks,
Bryan

bryanb

Just wanted to thank you guys for the help. I used the y-adapter and spliced that rather than the factory cable. I then soldered the wires to an RCA cable. One of the ends of the y is still open. I was able to install it behind the head unit without taking the head unit out. It's a very tight squeeze back there, but I was able to make it work.

I need to find a better RCA switch though, as I can sometimes here background noise if both XM and my MP3 player are plugged in. If I unplug one or the other, everything is fine though.

Thanks again,
Bryan

jerzeygroove

Hey can you take pictures of the modified cable? Where can I buy the cable? What kind of switch are u using?

Jinen

So let me get this straight..

Right now, I have the Vsokolov dvd unit...i'll purchase a dvd player soon...however, i don't need to purchase any audio unit anymore since i could tap into the 4 xm wires mentioned above (by the way, i don't care about XM at all )...

so now out of my dvd player, i can plug the yellow rca (video) cable into the vsokolov dvd unit and that should take care of the picture...

then i could take the red and white rca cables (audio for left and right) and "cut" them and solder/attach them to the 4 wires behind the head unit that are for xm...and i just have to attach the cut rca cables into the harness that is attached to the head unit (hence the other 4 wires, that are still held onto the thick cable, will have no function what-so-ever)

in doing so, i'll be able to hear audio from my dvd player (only if i press XM though)..so the XM button acts like a switch for the audio source from my dvd player...

overall, i have my video coming directly on the navi screen and then i have my audio coming in through my speakers by pressing the XM button...

a few questions though:
how is the sound quality? how would the navi recognize that i have a dvd player? how could it switch from navi to dvd? is there a switch installed and if so how do i connect that? is there a way that if i press the XM switch on the head unit, then it could automatically change the navi to DVD and also allow for the sound to come through? because that would be great...it would be the "secret" dvd switch that controls both video and audio

so does that sound about right?

also, it would be great if someone could post pictures about this install thanks, in advance

NewMexiCat

Ditto that! Please specify which cable and where you got it. I already have the Soundgate AUX3 switcher that has gotten good reviews, but my hesitation has been to splice into the stock wiring (scary to me!). If I could instead splice into this Y-cable, I would do that without fear. All the car wiring stays factory spec, and if I screw up the Y-cable, just get another one. Great solution--just need more details please!

rbf351

that is exactly how you do it

sound quality is amazing, the navi doesn't care that you have a dvd player, it still thinks it's XM radio. you should have some type of switch that came with Vsokolov unit to let you switch from navi to dvd.

i'm sure there is a way to make the XM button switch the unit. just need to get the schmatic of the white harness to figure it out

bryanb

The cable is Honda part number 08A31-0F1-000. I got it from a local Honda dealer for $42. Basically you plug the XM into one of the Y arms and splice that arm. The other arm is empty. I was trying to find a straight through cable, but ended up just using the Y.

The switch I used is just a Sony Game Selector. I will look around locally for a better one.

Bryan

VtecMW

I have the Soundgate AUX3 waiting to be installed. But, like NewMexiCat, I don't want to cut into the factory wiring.

Are we talking about doing this on Navi or Non-navi models?

Any info is appreciated.

bryanb

I have navi, but I think it would work on non-navi too.

Bryan

NewMexiCat

I have the Navi too, but I think this solution will work either way. There is another Honda part (#08A31-0E1-010) that I think will work even better than the Y-cable referenced above (although I can't confirm it until I actually get it). I think this part is a single harness extension rather than a Y-cable. The Y-cable will work, but your left with one "arm" of the Y that won't be used and is just superfluous. If I'm correct in what I'm seeing on the web and in installation schematics, the 08A31-0E1-010 is simply an extension of the harness with a male plug on one end and a female on the other. So, rather than cutting into the precious stock wiring of the car, you splice your Soundgate switcher into the proper wires in the harness extension cable. This also gives you the benefit of doing your soldering, taping, heat-shrinking, etc. on a work bench instead of in the trunk or under the dash. You also get the benefit of being able to easily pull everything out and go back to stock in the event you re-sell.

I am going to try to track down the part and confirm its compatibility!

VtecMW

I have Navi too. I picked up part #08A31-0F1-000 today from my local Honda dealer. I'm going to start working on it today. I'll report back with results.

NewMexiCat. Where do you plan on mounting your Soundgate switch? It's a little large. I'm afraid of drilling a hole so large anywhere in the car to mount the switch. I may take it to an audio installer for that.

VtecMW

Bryan, how did you get to the factory harness? I folded the carpet back to get a look at the wiring. I see a harness. But, it seems a little different from the Honda Y-harness I picked up. The wiring seems different too.

There's no way I can get my hand back there to pull the harness. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the right one. Does anyone have a picture of the back of the head unit? Or, at least a wiring diagram. Anything would help.

Thanks.

bryanb

It is the white connector that is nearest the driver's side. I believe it has fewer lines than the y adapter has.

I had to use a flathead screwdriver to get the existing harness out. It is not easy, but it is possible.

Bryan

VtecMW

One other question, if you happen to remember, which wires did you splice into on the Y-adapter since it's different from the factory harness?

Thanks again.

bryanb

I spliced red (l+), green (l-), white (r+) and black (r-).

Bryan

VtecMW

I can't get that connector out without removing the dash. There will be nothing left of the connector if I keep using a screwdriver. I'm destroying it.

My TL MP3 plans will have to remain on hold. I don't want to take the dash apart.

rbf351

it takes patience to remove the connector without removing the radio. i've done it, but it does cut up your fingers and i have small fingers

VtecMW

I think I might be able to get it with a little patience and luck. The key is to get the screw driver on top of the connector release button. I was thinking of putting a tie-strap around the existing writing and pulling on the tie strap as I have the release button on the connector held down.

I've already experiemented with it on the Y-harness and it seems to work. The only problem is that the space is so small in the TL. I'll get it one way or another. But, I'm not going to take apart the console to do it.

VtecMW

Bryan / RBF, I seem to have confused myself about how I should go about splicing into the harness.

I know that I splice into the red/green and black/white wires on the Y-harness. My question is do I attach only one RCA cable to each pair

RCA1 + going to harness red +
RCA1 - going to harness green -

RCA2 + going to harness white +
RCA2 + going to harness black -

If I am correct, these RCAs then go into the 'Main Input' RCA connections on the Soundgate.

What, if anything, do I connect to 'Main Output' on the Soundgate? Also, where did you connect the red wire on the Soundgate for a +12V switched power source?

VtecMW

I've tried everything. The only way I'll be able to get to that connector is to take the console apart. Otherwise, I'm going to wind up destroying the connector or some of the wiring.

For now, I'm just going to leave it alone. This project involves a lot more than I'm willing to do.

VtecMW

I was finally able to remove the connector without destroying anything. Now, if you guys can tell me where you connected the Soundgate for 12V power it would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

rbf351

if i am correct there should be an orange wire in that white harness, it's a 12v that is switched

VtecMW

Wow. That's bad news. I have already reconnected my harness. I don't want to go through the nightmare of trying to get that connector off again.

I'll try to find another place to connect tomorrow.

The XM still works at normal volume through the unpowered soundgate when connecting it through the main input/output RCA jacks. I tried to to connect my MP3 player through the main input jacks and it didn't work. I hope that isn't a bad sign.

Do I need to wait to get the Soundgate powered up before I will be able to listen to my MP3 player through input A or input B? Or, are results I've received so far telling me I've done something wrong?

VtecMW

Disregard the stupid question. I got my wires mixed up. I should have labeled them.

Everything works great. My MP3 player sounds great through the system. My next project is to actually get power to the Soundgate and tuck everything away neatly.

Any suggestions on location are very much appreciated. I was thinking about putting the soundgate in the armrest and tapping into the cigarette lighter for power.

NewMexiCat

Glad to hear you got things working and are getting great sound. My local Honda dealer does not have the harness in stock, so I'm waiting for it to be delivered before I can hopefully get mine working. As for powering the Soundgate, I think the easiest solution for you will be to run the power line to the fusebox by the driver's side door. I think there is an unused accessory circuit there, or you can always buy an "Add-A-Circuit" from your local auto parts store. There have been some threads here on the "Add-A-Circuit" previously. As for me, I may try to tap into the power through the harness. The Soundgate supposedly has a very low power draw, so I think that should work.

BTW, any tips you can give me for how you finally unhooked the connector from the HU would be greatly appreciated. I REALLY don't want to dismantle the dash!

VtecMW

1. Use a long flat head screwdriver.

If you look at the Honda Y-harness, you will see that the release connector is positioned slightly to the left of the connector. Aim the screwdriver there when trying to release the TL's factory harness. If you're lucky, the connector will stay pressed in.

Then, you can use the screwdriver on the side of the connector where it meets the head unit. Gently pry it. If it doesn't start to move the release button isn't pressed in. Go back to trying to get the release button pressed in. I thought I heard a click when I got it. But, don't hold me to that.

HAVE LOTS OF PATIENCE. Like bryan said, it's difficult but not impossible.

Make your new harness. Tape it up really well with electrical tape so that your connections aren't pullng too hard on the harness.

the new harness should be easy to install. Just bend it the way you want it to be positioned when you slide it into the very narrow space. Use a long screwdriver to position the harness.

After that, you should be all good. Now the next step is to find a home for the Soundgate. I was thinking about running the wires into the storage box and putting the Soundgate and switch in there. I don't want to do it until I'm sure that I can pass the RCA cables through the console.

The only other option is to find a way to fit the Soundgate behind the radio and make a plate for the switch to put into one of the storage bins. I saw a thread on here where someone did that. So, I might just try that.

But, I would prefer the storage bin because I could put my MP3 player (Dell DJ) in there and run the remote control out of the storage bin without it looking too rigged up.

VtecMW

Oh, one of those flashlights you can wear on your head would probably be helpful because it's difficult to work in such a small space and hold the screwdriver.

Open the storage bins below the radio for a little more light.

It requires a fair amount of precision and patience but it can be done. It's frustrating, as you can see from my other posts, but it can be done.

bryanb

Did you end up getting the Y cable or the bus cable (08A31-0E1-010)?

Bryan

VtecMW

Bryan, where did you put your soundgate box and switch?

zax123

Could someone please post some pics of what exactly you guys are doing? Or is it too late? I'd like to know how well the AUX adapter works for you guys. I have the Soundgate adapter on a Navi TL, but it's Canadian. I still had to tap into one of the wires on the soundgate and attach a switch on it to get it to work. I'm wondering if you guys are going to have to do the same thing. Please post pics if you have 'em. Thanks!

bryanb

I actually don't have the Soundgate, but may pick one up.

I'm also looking for a decent inline amplifier for the MP3 player if anyone has some suggestions. I tried the Radio Shack Headphone Volume Booster but it seems to distort the sound quite a bit.

Bryan

NewMexiCat

I have the bus cable (08A31-0E1-010) on order. I should have it some time this week.

Brewmaster

If you have the diagrams, are the connectors/wiring the same in the trunk as they are at the headunit?

I've got a 6 disk changer, the Nav2TV video switch and a switched audio source, and I'm trying to make all my connections in the trunk if possible. I'm all ready to start, but I'll wait for a cable if I can make this lower risk. (i.e. doing all connections on a removable piece)

NewMexiCat

I have the Helms manual at home, so I'll check the diagrams tonight and let you know. I think they are the same.

While waiting on my cable, I'm going back and forth as to whether to make my connections in the trunk or behind the dash. The trunk would obviously be easier, but I'm not really thrilled about the long cable runs up to the center console and then back to the trunk.

zax123

NewMexi, if I were you I'd do the connections in the trunk. You're going to find that there are a lot of wires that need to be played with and the trunk has LOTS of room behind the carpetting. I had room for a 4-in/4-out AV switch, the video converter, an AC adapter (for my PS2 in the glovebox), a DC-AC power inverter, and TONS of cabling... Just run some quality cabling through the car so there will be little signal loss. I used RG6 for all the video connections and good quality audio cable for the right/left channel hookups. The sound and video quality is fantastic.

Brewmaster

What will you be running up to the center? DVD player?? additional Aux In??? I'm not running an extra Aux in yet, I'm just splitting for the DVD (6 disk changer which is also in the trunk) so, aside from power the only run up the middle I have is the IR eye.
Still looking for a good place for that thinking maybe up by the sunroof controls.

Any suggestions?

rbf351

the connectors are completly different from the trunk to the radio. the wire colors are the same(i think)