chardness

iTrader: (2)

My original plan was to upgrade my system to the following:

• Alpine PDX F6 4x150 RMS: I plan on having channels 1 and 2 to power my component and bridge 3 and 4 for the sub. Although i'm worried that I might need a line driver since the factory preamp signal is very low.
  
• Image Dynamics CTX65cs
  
• Pyle 1590BL 15 in IB

But after browsing recently on DIYMA, I found a thread where the following were recommended, and now i'm on the fence on whether I should go with my original plan or try these for around $100:

• Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofer Wool Cone - 4 ohm
  
• Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeter with Waveguide 4 Ohm

Thoughts?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

go with the image dynamics ctx65cs, they are amazing and i love them, don't go cheap on components (not like the image dynamics are that much anyway). just need to trim some slight door metal and add a spacer but nothing too hard.

pohljm

I agree with sockr, but I would do a 3 or 5 channel amp with front channels bridged to components and sub channel to IB sub. If you choose amp wisely you do not need a line driver.

chardness

iTrader: (2)

Wish i checked this sooner, I scored a deal on an Alpine F6 thinking its output was perfect for what I needed.

Specs is showing 4x150rms each channel, so shouldn't it have enough to power the ctx65cs which has 100rms? Bridging the rears channels 3 and 4 would give me 300rms for the Pyle 15".

Input sensitivity is showing 0.2-4V, does that mean I don't need a line driver?

Thanks in advance. I'm also using your 'mild grade fever' thread as a reference.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^^ me and pohljm both run JL amps which are great for the TL and take a very low input. ours go down to 100mv (.1 V) and i think the TL signal is right about that. you may need a line driver.

the JL amps are the way to go for our cars...small size, powerful, and has balanced inputs.

wlbolton

Chardness,

I concur that the JL amps are the best for upgrading the TL's sound system due to balance inputs and low output from the HU. I have the Image Dynamics XS-65's components and the Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" sub-woofer. The components are powered by a Precision Power P900.4 power amp in bridge mode. The sub-woofer is powered by a Precision Power P1000.1 power amp. Because the HU output is approximately .1 volt, I included the Audio Control Matrix Plus (Line Driver) to increase the output. The rears and center channel remain on the stock amp.



There is beauty board (false wall) that covers the board the the amps and Line Driver is mounted to. Hope this helps with your install.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Wlbolton how do you like the image dynamics sub? I currently have a cheap infinity 1060w which was like 60 bucks but wonder if it would be worth it to get the 10" from image dynamics. I absolutely love their component set I'm running. Would it be worth it?

chardness

iTrader: (2)

wlbolton,

Those are some nice components and sub! Loving the clean install too. Wish I did get the JL..

Kind of regretting it now that I didn't get the JL. I still might be able to sell my Alpine F6 since I was able to get it for $230. I might as well try it since it's here and if not, I think i'll be able to get my money back selling it.

Bought the CTX65CS, Pyle 1590BL, and 3/4 spacers along with 4 gauge wiring kit. We'll see how this goes.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Look for a used JL amp I got my 3 channel one for about 180 I think

Edit for last post: I have a 1062w sub not 1060w

wlbolton

Sockr1, I am totally pleased with the performance of the IDMax 12" sub. More importantly, it was the best option for my IB install.