Bluetooth Fails
03-06-2016, 01:38 PM
#842
Racer
About 25 CAD. But then i had to send Joel another 25 CAD to have it shipped back... and with the currency exchange 45 usd was 60 cad... it came up to around 100... which im ok with but i just got it back and it still says booting up.
Did u guys have to remove a fuse or disconnect the battery after u re-install it? Mine is not working...
Did u guys have to remove a fuse or disconnect the battery after u re-install it? Mine is not working...
03-07-2016, 04:59 PM
#843
1st Gear
Join Date: Mar 2016
Age: 44
Posts: 1
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About 25 CAD. But then i had to send Joel another 25 CAD to have it shipped back... and with the currency exchange 45 usd was 60 cad... it came up to around 100... which im ok with but i just got it back and it still says booting up.
Did u guys have to remove a fuse or disconnect the battery after u re-install it? Mine is not working...
Did u guys have to remove a fuse or disconnect the battery after u re-install it? Mine is not working...
03-08-2016, 01:27 PM
#845
Racer
03-10-2016, 03:33 PM
#846
Instructor
Add me to the list of HFL victims .... my battery wasn't drained but phone calls started disconnecting and the ability to link via bluetooth was hit or miss . The steering wheel phone controls would occasionally stop working as well.
Troubleshooting steps:
- removed the HFL board from the overhead/map light holder (see instructions in this thread)
- re-seated the interface cable and started pressing on parts of the board until it worked again
- used soldering iron to warm up SMD chip contacts in the trouble area; this didn't fix anything
- removed HFL board from car, wrapped in a layer of tinfoil and put into a preheated convection toaster oven set around 385degF for approximately 10 mins.
- turned off toaster oven and let HFL board cool for 20 mins
- hooked HFL board back to harness; working great this time
- removed board again and "baked" it a second time to be sure
It has been working since Saturday - it's now Thursday. I did have a minor issue twice where it didn't link up with the phone right away ...after pressing the steering wheel controls it linked up. Not sure what this was about but I noticed it was when there was a substantial temperate swing outside. I'm continuing to monitor it but it's already working far better than it was. If it acts up again I will bake it at a slightly higher temp for a little longer (who knows how accurate the toaster over actually is) as I'll have nothing to lose at that point.
Thanks to those here who have provided information.
Jon
Troubleshooting steps:
- removed the HFL board from the overhead/map light holder (see instructions in this thread)
- re-seated the interface cable and started pressing on parts of the board until it worked again
- used soldering iron to warm up SMD chip contacts in the trouble area; this didn't fix anything
- removed HFL board from car, wrapped in a layer of tinfoil and put into a preheated convection toaster oven set around 385degF for approximately 10 mins.
- turned off toaster oven and let HFL board cool for 20 mins
- hooked HFL board back to harness; working great this time
- removed board again and "baked" it a second time to be sure
It has been working since Saturday - it's now Thursday. I did have a minor issue twice where it didn't link up with the phone right away ...after pressing the steering wheel controls it linked up. Not sure what this was about but I noticed it was when there was a substantial temperate swing outside. I'm continuing to monitor it but it's already working far better than it was. If it acts up again I will bake it at a slightly higher temp for a little longer (who knows how accurate the toaster over actually is) as I'll have nothing to lose at that point.
Thanks to those here who have provided information.
Jon
04-11-2016, 05:53 PM
#848
2007 TL Type-S
Count me in as one of the unlucky ones. HFL died on my '07 TL-S, and despite sending it to Joel for reflow soldering, it's still dead in the water. I'm going to try and convince my local Acura to replace the part as part of the TSB, but I expect to do some searching for the best price on a new module tomorrow.
And of course this happens in the same two week time period where my drive axle, engine mount, transmission mount, and alternator all blow up.
And of course this happens in the same two week time period where my drive axle, engine mount, transmission mount, and alternator all blow up.
04-15-2016, 10:09 PM
#849
I've had my HFL replaced twice already under an extended service warranty plan from my purchase (used) via CarMax.
So annoying that this part continues to fail despite all these years and complaints about the issue that it hasn't been definitively corrected.
If I ever have it fail out of warranty I'll have to remember this thread.
So annoying that this part continues to fail despite all these years and complaints about the issue that it hasn't been definitively corrected.
If I ever have it fail out of warranty I'll have to remember this thread.
04-16-2016, 12:01 AM
#850
6th Gear
Good news! I was able to repair my Acura Bluetooth module. As you may recall it suddenly quit pairing with any phone but passed the onboard diagnostics. It now works fine.
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
04-17-2016, 08:31 PM
#851
Advanced
I can't stand when people assume it's the dealer always over charging. I have worked in the dealer for over 10 years. The price the MANUFACTURE gives is insane. I tell my customers how and where to repair certain issues at a lower cost on a regular bases. I even have them buy their own special items as the box on eBay and I'll install it. Most people don't understand that the dealer and the manufacture are 2 separate companies.
As for the Bluetooth. It's probably because the unit is on the roof. It's over heats through the years due to the sun hearing up the roof. I have seen all kinds of units that are roof mounted fail on a regular bases on different makes and models.
And to say you won't buy another acura because of this simple issue. Go ahead. I tell my customers that every time. Good luck with another company. They all suck and they all have failing parts.
As for the Bluetooth. It's probably because the unit is on the roof. It's over heats through the years due to the sun hearing up the roof. I have seen all kinds of units that are roof mounted fail on a regular bases on different makes and models.
And to say you won't buy another acura because of this simple issue. Go ahead. I tell my customers that every time. Good luck with another company. They all suck and they all have failing parts.
04-17-2016, 08:37 PM
#852
Advanced
It's not %100 the dealer decision to replace things under good will. It's depends on the manufacture. When a dealer does anything via warranty / goodwill , the manufacture will pay the dealer for said work. Another factor is your loyalty to the dealer. If you just do oil changes and nothing else, your not going to get much help. If your a GOOD customer and spend money at the dealer, we will more then likely take good car of you.
Count me in as one of the unlucky ones. HFL died on my '07 TL-S, and despite sending it to Joel for reflow soldering, it's still dead in the water. I'm going to try and convince my local Acura to replace the part as part of the TSB, but I expect to do some searching for the best price on a new module tomorrow.
And of course this happens in the same two week time period where my drive axle, engine mount, transmission mount, and alternator all blow up.
And of course this happens in the same two week time period where my drive axle, engine mount, transmission mount, and alternator all blow up.
04-18-2016, 08:01 AM
#853
2007 TL Type-S
It's not %100 the dealer decision to replace things under good will. It's depends on the manufacture. When a dealer does anything via warranty / goodwill , the manufacture will pay the dealer for said work. Another factor is your loyalty to the dealer. If you just do oil changes and nothing else, your not going to get much help. If your a GOOD customer and spend money at the dealer, we will more then likely take good car of you.
I may try swapping the caps as a last-ditch effort, because I'm not terribly enthusiastic about spending $250 (it was $180 last year, apparently!) on a new module.
04-18-2016, 08:28 AM
#854
2007 TL Type-S
Can't edit my last post, but has anyone else attempted to swap the capacitors on an HFL module from an 07-08 TL-S? I can't find a single post where this was done, only on older modules from 04-06.
04-18-2016, 01:18 PM
#855
3rd Gear
Join Date: May 2005
Age: 59
Posts: 3
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Power drain fix
Hi all,
My wifes 2006 tl navi. Is killing batteries,
So I check it with a amp meter and found about 250 MA draw. That and the internet lead me here. The unit was also not able to pair to my iphone 6s, but still kinda worked with her phone that was paired years and years ago.
So I baked it. Proof I can pair. But it looks to still be drawing 250 MA.
Has anybody fixed the battery drain issue, with anything besides new unit or unplugging it?
Would like to have the HFL but not worth getting stranded or putting a lot of money into a 2005 Vehicle, with a suspect tranny.
Highflier
My wifes 2006 tl navi. Is killing batteries,
So I check it with a amp meter and found about 250 MA draw. That and the internet lead me here. The unit was also not able to pair to my iphone 6s, but still kinda worked with her phone that was paired years and years ago.
So I baked it. Proof I can pair. But it looks to still be drawing 250 MA.
Has anybody fixed the battery drain issue, with anything besides new unit or unplugging it?
Would like to have the HFL but not worth getting stranded or putting a lot of money into a 2005 Vehicle, with a suspect tranny.
Highflier
04-18-2016, 01:30 PM
#856
3rd Gear
Join Date: May 2005
Age: 59
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Opps I stand corrected, When I went back out to check on car, and connect the battery back up (taking out the voltmeter), I found that current had dropped from 250MA to 20MA. The HFL module must take 10-20 min to enter sleep mode.
All is good for now. Not sure how much life my battery has left after being killed 2 times.
note to self check windshield temp a few times over the next few weeks.
Highflier
All is good for now. Not sure how much life my battery has left after being killed 2 times.
note to self check windshield temp a few times over the next few weeks.
Highflier
04-18-2016, 01:55 PM
#857
Race Director
Yeah, I was just about to reply that IIRC, the HFL stays on for 30 minutes after the car is shut off...
04-18-2016, 05:06 PM
#858
2007 TL Type-S
Again, to add to my previous two posts:
Does anyone know which caps would be targeted for replacement on an 07-08 TL-S HFL board? I'm hesitant to just go ahead and replace all of them, especially given that I've already spent $45 on the reflow soldering, and may wind up spending $250 on a new board in the end.
Does anyone know which caps would be targeted for replacement on an 07-08 TL-S HFL board? I'm hesitant to just go ahead and replace all of them, especially given that I've already spent $45 on the reflow soldering, and may wind up spending $250 on a new board in the end.
04-25-2016, 08:37 PM
#862
Pro
UPDATE: Well, not more than two days after I posted the update that my bluetooth was still working after 6 months, it quit!! Past couple days nothing and all it says is the good ol "booting up" Damn! So looks like there is no good option of repair except replace!
05-05-2016, 04:36 PM
#863
5th Gear
Thank you all.
Just bought this car for my daughter. Discovered the HFL Booting Up message that never went away. Followed the directions and removed the HFL from the roof console.
Despite the ignition being off, the unit was warm to the touch....maybe 150F, while in a 65F garage. The car doesn't stumble upon starting so I'm sure the broken HFL was draining power. Just for kicks, tried to bake it. Upon removal from the oven, for of the soldered in pieces fell off the circuit board. $221 spent on a new unit. Couldn't have fixed this withou the forum. Thank you all.
Despite the ignition being off, the unit was warm to the touch....maybe 150F, while in a 65F garage. The car doesn't stumble upon starting so I'm sure the broken HFL was draining power. Just for kicks, tried to bake it. Upon removal from the oven, for of the soldered in pieces fell off the circuit board. $221 spent on a new unit. Couldn't have fixed this withou the forum. Thank you all.
05-08-2016, 03:26 PM
#864
Intermediate
Has anyone tried relocation the unit toward the bottom of the cabin?
To see if any of the heat/weather change is causing this problem??
It would be as simple as extending all the wires.
To see if any of the heat/weather change is causing this problem??
It would be as simple as extending all the wires.
05-08-2016, 06:12 PM
#865
5th Gear
Five Minutes to Install The New HFL
Wit two day shipping, the new unit came in at about $232/shipped. The reinstall took five minutes. I couldn't get it to pair with my vintage iPhone 4S. But, my daughter paired her iPhone 5 immediately. It'll be her car anyway. The new unit also allows the voice command to actually understand what we're saying. Before, we'd say "system" and the response would be, "fan speed: seven."
Thanks for making this a painless fix.
Thanks for making this a painless fix.
05-08-2016, 09:53 PM
#866
Wit two day shipping, the new unit came in at about $232/shipped. The reinstall took five minutes. I couldn't get it to pair with my vintage iPhone 4S. But, my daughter paired her iPhone 5 immediately. It'll be her car anyway. The new unit also allows the voice command to actually understand what we're saying. Before, we'd say "system" and the response would be, "fan speed: seven."
Thanks for making this a painless fix.
Thanks for making this a painless fix.
Where did you purchase the new unit from?
05-16-2016, 10:51 PM
#868
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted .
Can I just disconnect the module and leave it there unplugged ,since I have no need for the hands free link? Thanks in advance.
Can I just disconnect the module and leave it there unplugged ,since I have no need for the hands free link? Thanks in advance.
06-22-2016, 09:27 AM
#872
Intermediate
Same thing happened to me, first few hot days this summer and it died again. It's just a bad location and Acura should not have put it there. I plan on either getting a new board or fixing the current one, then adding some heat barrier around its location to see if that helps.
06-23-2016, 07:52 AM
#873
Instructor
Same thing happened to me, first few hot days this summer and it died again. It's just a bad location and Acura should not have put it there. I plan on either getting a new board or fixing the current one, then adding some heat barrier around its location to see if that helps.
06-30-2016, 04:18 PM
#874
So is this a temperature related issue for the HFL?
Debating whether I should get a new board but I'm afraid the same thing will happen again
It's really annoying because I do use the handsfree function
Debating whether I should get a new board but I'm afraid the same thing will happen again
It's really annoying because I do use the handsfree function
07-25-2016, 07:09 PM
#875
Intermediate
Does anyone have a 05 TL with this issue ? I think it's the HFL, but i'm not sure. My bluetooth doesn't pair up with any phones, but my battery isn't dying. I can hear the voice commands, but it juts doesn't pair. It's frustrating !
07-31-2016, 05:16 PM
#878
Pro
09-02-2016, 09:40 AM
#880
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
i had mine fixed by Joel in November 2015 and now my HFL won't pair at all. looks like the fix is only temporary but 45 isn't bad for an extra 10 months of work. now i'm going to look into a new HFL unit or buy a double din since my navigation also doesn't work. i'm planning on keeping my car for the long haul (going on 8 years already, original owner) so might as well look at new options for these components
anybody know the part number for an 08 type s? i tried acuraoemparts but can't find out for the life of me where the HFL part is located
anybody know the part number for an 08 type s? i tried acuraoemparts but can't find out for the life of me where the HFL part is located