Aftermarket Stereo & Subwoofer Questions! **NEWBIE**
#41
That Xtant 1000x is gonna destroy almost any sub you hook up to it... do yourself a favor and get a 4 ohm sub that will take about 600 watts rms. If you get a 2 ohm sub it will be WAY too much for your front comps to keep up with. You will also be upgrading your electical system cuz that thing will pull a ton of current. We won't even get into sound dampening...
#42
I hear you there I am all for direct wiring (passive) with soldering and heat shrink. I'm not sure that adding to the signal chain is worth it in the end as most people that run active have no clue how to set their DSP correctly. Slopes, Q, curve, Fs, etc... are terms that most people aren't familiar with and don't understand so they just turn knobs on their DSP to achieve the sound that they want which just LOUD!! Don't get me wrong I have enjoyed tuning many installs with DSP's but I sure like simple plug and play systems still.
As far as NVX tweeters go, I have never heard them but that's because the company is fairly new and I just don't know anyone that runs them around here. Having said that, ring radiator designs are always a plus and it can play down low (Fs= 800hz) which is always a bonus as it will bring that sound stage up more. Morel is Morel and you always know what you're gonna get there a proven winner time and again
As far as NVX tweeters go, I have never heard them but that's because the company is fairly new and I just don't know anyone that runs them around here. Having said that, ring radiator designs are always a plus and it can play down low (Fs= 800hz) which is always a bonus as it will bring that sound stage up more. Morel is Morel and you always know what you're gonna get there a proven winner time and again
Last edited by Bchester6; 02-13-2017 at 08:26 AM.
#45
Not necessarily bro. You've got very very good components in place so you ain't far from having a great SQ/SQL system not to mention very loud. Depending on your listening behaviors you will just have to gain everything correctly but your front stage components will be the "measuring stick" for your system because the sub will have ton of headroom just due to the power you're sending it. Headroom in an audio system is GOOD problem to have so enjoy and tune away but get those nice Iridiums installed properly to get your full potential and then go from there.
#46
Not necessarily bro. You've got very very good components in place so you ain't far from having a great SQ/SQL system not to mention very loud. Depending on your listening behaviors you will just have to gain everything correctly but your front stage components will be the "measuring stick" for your system because the sub will have ton of headroom just due to the power you're sending it. Headroom in an audio system is GOOD problem to have so enjoy and tune away but get those nice Iridiums installed properly to get your full potential and then go from there.
#47
Im just trying to avoid doing any custom fiber glassing or anything crazy for the midrange speakers, trying to keep it all as simple as possible. But as you said you dont recommend putting them in the rear deck, so i dont know where else to put them. As for the sub i still have to have my friend make the box for me, i was thinking to remove the factory sub and port the lows through the stock sub opening into the car. Eventually ill get cross overs/EQ's to tune and clean up the music further. im just tired of looking at these speakers and amp under my bed lol
Once you have those installed you can modify your tweeter install to match them to your liking. My guess is you will want to add some resisters to the tweeter to bring the level down a little. (The passive crossover that comes with them probably does this except it is for a 3 way design so you would emd up having a hole in the midrange if you used it) You dont need any crossover parts for the midbass as above 5k you wont hear much from it unless you put your head directly in front (off-axis res ponse will be limited starting around 2500khz providing a natural rolloff which you can then mate the tweeter to.
#48
I looked the specs on what i believe is the midbass in your 3-way set. It has a frequency response up to 5k so you shouldnt have much trouble making it a two way system. Sinve you already have the tweeters installed, all you have to do is install the midbasses in the doors... You may need to trim the sheet metal a little. I have used a dremel in the past but an angle grinder may be quicker. Definitely lay down some deadening materials and plug up holes in the door especially closest to the speaker. The idea is to isolate the front of the speaker from the rear.
Once you have those installed you can modify your tweeter install to match them to your liking. My guess is you will want to add some resisters to the tweeter to bring the level down a little. (The passive crossover that comes with them probably does this except it is for a 3 way design so you would emd up having a hole in the midrange if you used it) You dont need any crossover parts for the midbass as above 5k you wont hear much from it unless you put your head directly in front (off-axis res ponse will be limited starting around 2500khz providing a natural rolloff which you can then mate the tweeter to.
Once you have those installed you can modify your tweeter install to match them to your liking. My guess is you will want to add some resisters to the tweeter to bring the level down a little. (The passive crossover that comes with them probably does this except it is for a 3 way design so you would emd up having a hole in the midrange if you used it) You dont need any crossover parts for the midbass as above 5k you wont hear much from it unless you put your head directly in front (off-axis res ponse will be limited starting around 2500khz providing a natural rolloff which you can then mate the tweeter to.
The midbass is the 3" speaker or the 6"? it sucks i spent all this money on these speakers only to make this a 2 way set up -___- and there are resistors installed on the tweeters already. The guy that modified my stock radio and amp, installed resistors as you said to bring the level down, and he also made them plug and play so they plug right into the stock tweeter wire as if it were oem. I'm just looking to utilize all the speakers in this set up, only question is how without doing custom fiberglass work, etc.
#49
Im just trying to avoid doing any custom fiber glassing or anything crazy for the midrange speakers, trying to keep it all as simple as possible. But as you said you dont recommend putting them in the rear deck, so i dont know where else to put them. As for the sub i still have to have my friend make the box for me, i was thinking to remove the factory sub and port the lows through the stock sub opening into the car. Eventually ill get cross overs/EQ's to tune and clean up the music further. im just tired of looking at these speakers and amp under my bed lol
#50
The mids cant go in the rear deck right? where could they go and what would i wire them into? i believe its in the HU, i could be wrong though. The guy that modified both swears by the stock stuff, im going with Ported enclosure. My friend thats making the box has been doing audio setups for over 17 years and owned his own shop at one point before being deployed overseas, were gonna work on that in the spring.
#51
The mids cant go in the rear deck right? where could they go and what would i wire them into? i believe its in the HU, i could be wrong though. The guy that modified both swears by the stock stuff, im going with Ported enclosure. My friend thats making the box has been doing audio setups for over 17 years and owned his own shop at one point before being deployed overseas, were gonna work on that in the spring.
Processing is done both at the hu and the amp. I believe there is some time alignment from the hu and then crossover work is done by the amp. This is why I recommend utilizing the preamp signal for sub work. The signal from the stock amp is tapered down low (i.e. not flat response and requires eq to compensate) amd also sounds muddy.
#52
Not really worth i stalling them in the back by themselves... Better off with the stock speakers back there because they see a pretty full range signal. It is unfortunate that you cannot utilize the three way setup but unless you are willing to fabricate something that is just the way it is in this car.
Processing is done both at the hu and the amp. I believe there is some time alignment from the hu and then crossover work is done by the amp. This is why I recommend utilizing the preamp signal for sub work. The signal from the stock amp is tapered down low (i.e. not flat response and requires eq to compensate) amd also sounds muddy.
Processing is done both at the hu and the amp. I believe there is some time alignment from the hu and then crossover work is done by the amp. This is why I recommend utilizing the preamp signal for sub work. The signal from the stock amp is tapered down low (i.e. not flat response and requires eq to compensate) amd also sounds muddy.
#53
IMO it would be too much work unless your friend wants to do something... Ppl have put them mostly in the footwells... I wouldnt want to. Actually I would prefer a two way setup myself.
#54
The midbass is the 3" speaker or the 6"? it sucks i spent all this money on these speakers only to make this a 2 way set up -___- and there are resistors installed on the tweeters already. The guy that modified my stock radio and amp, installed resistors as you said to bring the level down, and he also made them plug and play so they plug right into the stock tweeter wire as if it were oem. I'm just looking to utilize all the speakers in this set up, only question is how without doing custom fiberglass work, etc.
midrange= 3 inch
you have to put the six inch speakers in your door. Putting them in the rear deck would be a total let down. At this point your 3 inch midrange speakers are are probably going to stay under your bed if you don't want to do some fabricating.
#56
midbass = 6 inch
midrange= 3 inch
you have to put the six inch speakers in your door. Putting them in the rear deck would be a total let down. At this point your 3 inch midrange speakers are are probably going to stay under your bed if you don't want to do some fabricating.
midrange= 3 inch
you have to put the six inch speakers in your door. Putting them in the rear deck would be a total let down. At this point your 3 inch midrange speakers are are probably going to stay under your bed if you don't want to do some fabricating.
I prefer the 3 way setup, guess i should have just sold these when i had the chance, spent all this money on a three way speaker setup only to end up using it as a 2 way....
#57
I assume id need something like this done? if his wasnt so expensive, id consider buying although it looks rather........big
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par...hipped-949993/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par...hipped-949993/
#58
IDK man I suppose you could run them off of the rear channels with a cap inline as I would assume the amp is sending a full signal to the rears but... and you hope that your gear fits in HIS custom molds but I didn't see any specs or dimensions on the link so that's a shot in the dark not worth taking in my opinion. Are you're tweets mounted in dash now?
Last edited by Bchester6; 02-15-2017 at 09:34 AM.
#59
IDK man I suppose you could run them off of the rear channels with a cap inline as I would assume the amp is sending a full signal to the rears but... and you hope that your gear fits in HIS custom molds but I didn't see any specs or dimensions on the link so that's a shot in the dark not worth taking in my opinion. Are you're tweets mounted in dash now?
As far as the midrange, if i CAN indeed do what you suggested with running it off the rear channel, then im willing to go custom fab for the midrange, then the DLS Mid bass can go in the doors with some dynamat, then later on i can upgrade more things.
#60
I just want to clarify that I'm not recommending you run them off of the rear channel but you seem adamant about placing those midranges somewhere in your vehicle. Keep in mind should you do it this way you won't have much (if any) control over them. I have never run speakers in this fashion so I assume that you will be relegated to using your fader on the head unit to attenuate or increase volume levels. Like I said, you're into the unexplored areas of space and time continuum.Proceed at your own risk haha.
#61
I just want to clarify that I'm not recommending you run them off of the rear channel but you seem adamant about placing those midranges somewhere in your vehicle. Keep in mind should you do it this way you won't have much (if any) control over them. I have never run speakers in this fashion so I assume that you will be relegated to using your fader on the head unit to attenuate or increase volume levels. Like I said, you're into the unexplored areas of space and time continuum.Proceed at your own risk haha.
#62
#63
What he said... the message I'm trying to convey isn't meant to scare you it just seems like you're trying to put a round peg into a square hole.
#64