Aftermarket Stereo & Subwoofer Questions! **NEWBIE**
01-31-2017, 10:25 PM
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Aftermarket Stereo & Subwoofer Questions! **NEWBIE**
Hi, my name's HAKXAH.
I've been lurking these Forums for awhile as I have just recently made the switch from a 2002 Honda Civic Si to a 2005 Acura TL w/ NAV.
I'm currently posting in regards to whether my old Audio setup from my Honda Civic will be easily implemented into the TL and whether or not I need or am missing anything to fully implement it? (Do I need a LOC or..? etc. etc.)
What I'll be doing is replacing the Factory Radio with a Double DIN Pioneer Aftermarket Deck (Found a Pioneer FH-X721BT - I dislike the touchscreen Double DINS, so why not go with this?);
As well as running a 1000W Amplifier Wiring Kit --- as I did with my Civic.
Ran the Wiring Kit straight throughout the Car to the trunk connected to my Pioneer GM-D7500M Amplifier (800W Max) that powers a Single 12" Alpine Type-R Subwoofer in a Ported Box.
Can I do the same wiring and everything as I did within my Civic into my TL? Or it isn't that simple?
I would just like to know as I am going to be doing this either this weekend or mid-next week as I miss my Bass! Music isn't the same.
Will post Updates as time goes on.
Thank you once again, I hope to enjoy this Community for a long time!
I've been lurking these Forums for awhile as I have just recently made the switch from a 2002 Honda Civic Si to a 2005 Acura TL w/ NAV.
I'm currently posting in regards to whether my old Audio setup from my Honda Civic will be easily implemented into the TL and whether or not I need or am missing anything to fully implement it? (Do I need a LOC or..? etc. etc.)
What I'll be doing is replacing the Factory Radio with a Double DIN Pioneer Aftermarket Deck (Found a Pioneer FH-X721BT - I dislike the touchscreen Double DINS, so why not go with this?);
As well as running a 1000W Amplifier Wiring Kit --- as I did with my Civic.
Ran the Wiring Kit straight throughout the Car to the trunk connected to my Pioneer GM-D7500M Amplifier (800W Max) that powers a Single 12" Alpine Type-R Subwoofer in a Ported Box.
Can I do the same wiring and everything as I did within my Civic into my TL? Or it isn't that simple?
I would just like to know as I am going to be doing this either this weekend or mid-next week as I miss my Bass! Music isn't the same.
Will post Updates as time goes on.
Thank you once again, I hope to enjoy this Community for a long time!
02-01-2017, 06:41 PM
#2
Intermediate
Personally, I would not change the head-unit. For alot of reasons.
If you keep the OEM radio, you will need a LOC, you can tap into the sub wires right at the amplifier (passenger kick panel) Then run the RCA from the LOC you install behind passenger kick panel to the amp in the trunk.
You can remove the OEM Subwoofer or keep it installed. Your choice, but can't stay connected. I remove them since it acts as a port.
If you use Aftermarket radio, no need for loc since most will have RCA - Outputs right on the radio.
My advice, take your time and remove all the paneling, then route the wires correctly.
Do it right, or do it over. Choose wisely
If you keep the OEM radio, you will need a LOC, you can tap into the sub wires right at the amplifier (passenger kick panel) Then run the RCA from the LOC you install behind passenger kick panel to the amp in the trunk.
You can remove the OEM Subwoofer or keep it installed. Your choice, but can't stay connected. I remove them since it acts as a port.
If you use Aftermarket radio, no need for loc since most will have RCA - Outputs right on the radio.
My advice, take your time and remove all the paneling, then route the wires correctly.
Do it right, or do it over. Choose wisely
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03max6spd (02-02-2017)
02-02-2017, 02:21 PM
#3
I've been researching the same thing, my 2004 came with a hacked up parts missing, parts not working system. Since I'm replacing basically all the speakers, and OEM new runs about $85 a pair, why not upgrade? Yeah, not so much.
Here's what I've found so far:
The factory radio. Almost universally everyone says "Don't do it!" My car is a Six speed Nav, except that my smartphone has better nav... I'd love to put in a double DIN CarPlay capable radio, and there are people on Youtube that have, but it's not a simple process, you're going to have to fabricate your own mounts, trim, etc... not to mention that the radio is integrated with EVERYTHING, there are hacks on this site where you can get it to display your at the moment MPG, trip computer, etc... in order for it to do that there's a connection to the ODBII engine management computer. I don't claim to be an electronics genus, but I'd hate to pull out the radio and find myself not able to start the engine. It's also integrated into the HVAC, HandsFreeLink, etc, etc, etc. In short, I'd love to replace mine too, but it's not worth it.
There is a way to connect into your phone, play mp3 files, etc though (from what I've heard, haven't tried it yet) Check out GROM HON1U3, for about $150 you're supposed to be able to connect all sorts of stuff, and you can control it with the Nav system's Satilite2 screen.
For speakers:
* Healtoe.com (one of our sponsors) sells a OEM amp with updated internals, and tweeters that match the amp. Check, two speakers down
* Crutchfield sells a Kicker CompS 40CWS82 free air sub that will *almost* fit into the stock location, since I was thinking I was going to build a custom box, cut a hole through the car and port it through the factory grill, cutting a hole and skipping the box seems like a good solution... hopefully I can "bend" instead of cut, if not, plasma torch it is! One more speaker down.
***You mentioned that you're planning on pushing 1000W to a 12" sub. You might be able to use the OEM sub wires to your amp and to the box... seems like you should be able to, the OEM amp has a dedicated sub out, so it sounds like it's doing the work of a crossover already.
Now the problem. You're looking at 2 ohms of impedance coming off the factory amp... most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms... and you can find a really nice pair for half the price of OEM new, but that's going to cut your volume in half. When you do find 2 ohm speakers, they won't fit in the factory holes. In the back there's room behind the speaker, but there isn't room in front of the speaker... so the factory grill won't fit. In the front, you have to cut out the factory mounting to get room behind the speaker, but again, no room in front.
"Just put on the grill that comes with the aftermarket speaker?" you ask... nope, the factory grills are designed to flow with the neighboring trim pieces... not impossible to do, but you're looking at cutting the door panels and probably doing some fabrication work to get it to look right.
Now if the idea of doing the electronics and fabrication work to get a Double DIN and 5 1/4" speakers into the doors and back doesn't scare you, I'd say "If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly." Replace the factory amp with a nice 4 or 5 channel amp, build the ported box that fits between the shock towers in the trunk, throw some 4 way speakers into the door and back. If you do PLEASE post a video to YouTube and leave a link here... it would be a freakin' awesome system. If you can mass produce the parts to get the double DIN to work and still have all the other stuff work you could probably sell them like hot-cakes on eBay... I'd buy it.
Here's what I've found so far:
The factory radio. Almost universally everyone says "Don't do it!" My car is a Six speed Nav, except that my smartphone has better nav... I'd love to put in a double DIN CarPlay capable radio, and there are people on Youtube that have, but it's not a simple process, you're going to have to fabricate your own mounts, trim, etc... not to mention that the radio is integrated with EVERYTHING, there are hacks on this site where you can get it to display your at the moment MPG, trip computer, etc... in order for it to do that there's a connection to the ODBII engine management computer. I don't claim to be an electronics genus, but I'd hate to pull out the radio and find myself not able to start the engine. It's also integrated into the HVAC, HandsFreeLink, etc, etc, etc. In short, I'd love to replace mine too, but it's not worth it.
There is a way to connect into your phone, play mp3 files, etc though (from what I've heard, haven't tried it yet) Check out GROM HON1U3, for about $150 you're supposed to be able to connect all sorts of stuff, and you can control it with the Nav system's Satilite2 screen.
For speakers:
* Healtoe.com (one of our sponsors) sells a OEM amp with updated internals, and tweeters that match the amp. Check, two speakers down
* Crutchfield sells a Kicker CompS 40CWS82 free air sub that will *almost* fit into the stock location, since I was thinking I was going to build a custom box, cut a hole through the car and port it through the factory grill, cutting a hole and skipping the box seems like a good solution... hopefully I can "bend" instead of cut, if not, plasma torch it is! One more speaker down.
***You mentioned that you're planning on pushing 1000W to a 12" sub. You might be able to use the OEM sub wires to your amp and to the box... seems like you should be able to, the OEM amp has a dedicated sub out, so it sounds like it's doing the work of a crossover already.
Now the problem. You're looking at 2 ohms of impedance coming off the factory amp... most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms... and you can find a really nice pair for half the price of OEM new, but that's going to cut your volume in half. When you do find 2 ohm speakers, they won't fit in the factory holes. In the back there's room behind the speaker, but there isn't room in front of the speaker... so the factory grill won't fit. In the front, you have to cut out the factory mounting to get room behind the speaker, but again, no room in front.
"Just put on the grill that comes with the aftermarket speaker?" you ask... nope, the factory grills are designed to flow with the neighboring trim pieces... not impossible to do, but you're looking at cutting the door panels and probably doing some fabrication work to get it to look right.
Now if the idea of doing the electronics and fabrication work to get a Double DIN and 5 1/4" speakers into the doors and back doesn't scare you, I'd say "If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly." Replace the factory amp with a nice 4 or 5 channel amp, build the ported box that fits between the shock towers in the trunk, throw some 4 way speakers into the door and back. If you do PLEASE post a video to YouTube and leave a link here... it would be a freakin' awesome system. If you can mass produce the parts to get the double DIN to work and still have all the other stuff work you could probably sell them like hot-cakes on eBay... I'd buy it.
02-02-2017, 03:46 PM
#4
I've been researching the same thing, my 2004 came with a hacked up parts missing, parts not working system. Since I'm replacing basically all the speakers, and OEM new runs about $85 a pair, why not upgrade? Yeah, not so much.
Here's what I've found so far:
The factory radio. Almost universally everyone says "Don't do it!" My car is a Six speed Nav, except that my smartphone has better nav... I'd love to put in a double DIN CarPlay capable radio, and there are people on Youtube that have, but it's not a simple process, you're going to have to fabricate your own mounts, trim, etc... not to mention that the radio is integrated with EVERYTHING, there are hacks on this site where you can get it to display your at the moment MPG, trip computer, etc... in order for it to do that there's a connection to the ODBII engine management computer. I don't claim to be an electronics genus, but I'd hate to pull out the radio and find myself not able to start the engine. It's also integrated into the HVAC, HandsFreeLink, etc, etc, etc. In short, I'd love to replace mine too, but it's not worth it.
There is a way to connect into your phone, play mp3 files, etc though (from what I've heard, haven't tried it yet) Check out GROM HON1U3, for about $150 you're supposed to be able to connect all sorts of stuff, and you can control it with the Nav system's Satilite2 screen.
For speakers:
* Healtoe.com (one of our sponsors) sells a OEM amp with updated internals, and tweeters that match the amp. Check, two speakers down
* Crutchfield sells a Kicker CompS 40CWS82 free air sub that will *almost* fit into the stock location, since I was thinking I was going to build a custom box, cut a hole through the car and port it through the factory grill, cutting a hole and skipping the box seems like a good solution... hopefully I can "bend" instead of cut, if not, plasma torch it is! One more speaker down.
***You mentioned that you're planning on pushing 1000W to a 12" sub. You might be able to use the OEM sub wires to your amp and to the box... seems like you should be able to, the OEM amp has a dedicated sub out, so it sounds like it's doing the work of a crossover already.
Now the problem. You're looking at 2 ohms of impedance coming off the factory amp... most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms... and you can find a really nice pair for half the price of OEM new, but that's going to cut your volume in half. When you do find 2 ohm speakers, they won't fit in the factory holes. In the back there's room behind the speaker, but there isn't room in front of the speaker... so the factory grill won't fit. In the front, you have to cut out the factory mounting to get room behind the speaker, but again, no room in front.
"Just put on the grill that comes with the aftermarket speaker?" you ask... nope, the factory grills are designed to flow with the neighboring trim pieces... not impossible to do, but you're looking at cutting the door panels and probably doing some fabrication work to get it to look right.
Now if the idea of doing the electronics and fabrication work to get a Double DIN and 5 1/4" speakers into the doors and back doesn't scare you, I'd say "If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly." Replace the factory amp with a nice 4 or 5 channel amp, build the ported box that fits between the shock towers in the trunk, throw some 4 way speakers into the door and back. If you do PLEASE post a video to YouTube and leave a link here... it would be a freakin' awesome system. If you can mass produce the parts to get the double DIN to work and still have all the other stuff work you could probably sell them like hot-cakes on eBay... I'd buy it.
Here's what I've found so far:
The factory radio. Almost universally everyone says "Don't do it!" My car is a Six speed Nav, except that my smartphone has better nav... I'd love to put in a double DIN CarPlay capable radio, and there are people on Youtube that have, but it's not a simple process, you're going to have to fabricate your own mounts, trim, etc... not to mention that the radio is integrated with EVERYTHING, there are hacks on this site where you can get it to display your at the moment MPG, trip computer, etc... in order for it to do that there's a connection to the ODBII engine management computer. I don't claim to be an electronics genus, but I'd hate to pull out the radio and find myself not able to start the engine. It's also integrated into the HVAC, HandsFreeLink, etc, etc, etc. In short, I'd love to replace mine too, but it's not worth it.
There is a way to connect into your phone, play mp3 files, etc though (from what I've heard, haven't tried it yet) Check out GROM HON1U3, for about $150 you're supposed to be able to connect all sorts of stuff, and you can control it with the Nav system's Satilite2 screen.
For speakers:
* Healtoe.com (one of our sponsors) sells a OEM amp with updated internals, and tweeters that match the amp. Check, two speakers down
* Crutchfield sells a Kicker CompS 40CWS82 free air sub that will *almost* fit into the stock location, since I was thinking I was going to build a custom box, cut a hole through the car and port it through the factory grill, cutting a hole and skipping the box seems like a good solution... hopefully I can "bend" instead of cut, if not, plasma torch it is! One more speaker down.
***You mentioned that you're planning on pushing 1000W to a 12" sub. You might be able to use the OEM sub wires to your amp and to the box... seems like you should be able to, the OEM amp has a dedicated sub out, so it sounds like it's doing the work of a crossover already.
Now the problem. You're looking at 2 ohms of impedance coming off the factory amp... most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms... and you can find a really nice pair for half the price of OEM new, but that's going to cut your volume in half. When you do find 2 ohm speakers, they won't fit in the factory holes. In the back there's room behind the speaker, but there isn't room in front of the speaker... so the factory grill won't fit. In the front, you have to cut out the factory mounting to get room behind the speaker, but again, no room in front.
"Just put on the grill that comes with the aftermarket speaker?" you ask... nope, the factory grills are designed to flow with the neighboring trim pieces... not impossible to do, but you're looking at cutting the door panels and probably doing some fabrication work to get it to look right.
Now if the idea of doing the electronics and fabrication work to get a Double DIN and 5 1/4" speakers into the doors and back doesn't scare you, I'd say "If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly." Replace the factory amp with a nice 4 or 5 channel amp, build the ported box that fits between the shock towers in the trunk, throw some 4 way speakers into the door and back. If you do PLEASE post a video to YouTube and leave a link here... it would be a freakin' awesome system. If you can mass produce the parts to get the double DIN to work and still have all the other stuff work you could probably sell them like hot-cakes on eBay... I'd buy it.
Im currently running the modded amplifier and modded radio done by the guy that supplies to Heeltoe, and i love it! im running after market DLS Iridium 6.3 tweeters with capacitor and he also made them plug and play for me, next up is to install the rest of DLS speakers and LOC with xtant 1001x amp and X series Sundown =D
02-04-2017, 04:22 PM
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Thanks for all then feedback and your helpful tips.
Biggest challenge is to Bypass the Factory Amp and finding Speakers to replace all the 2ohm speakers within the car itself for a decent price - as well as what @hannamand stated in regards with the Speaker grills and the fabrication work.
Hiring a local car enthusiast to help wire in my car next week once all my supplies & Double DIN comes in (Pioneer FH-720BT). I love playing with all the settings and such on my single DIN Pioneer deck so a Double DIN of it would be great! Picking that up this weekend as well.
Will post pics soon.
Biggest challenge is to Bypass the Factory Amp and finding Speakers to replace all the 2ohm speakers within the car itself for a decent price - as well as what @hannamand stated in regards with the Speaker grills and the fabrication work.
Hiring a local car enthusiast to help wire in my car next week once all my supplies & Double DIN comes in (Pioneer FH-720BT). I love playing with all the settings and such on my single DIN Pioneer deck so a Double DIN of it would be great! Picking that up this weekend as well.
Will post pics soon.
02-05-2017, 04:12 PM
#6
Im currently running the modded amplifier and modded radio done by the guy that supplies to Heeltoe, and i love it! im running after market DLS Iridium 6.3 tweeters with capacitor and he also made them plug and play for me, next up is to install the rest of DLS speakers and LOC with xtant 1001x amp and X series Sundown =D
02-06-2017, 08:17 AM
#7
DLS Iridium components are as good as it gets!! I know this cuz I run the 8.3 Iridiums and Ultimate series amps (A6 and A3). Do not use an LOC with that Xtant amp as they can take a balanced inputs, you just have to find the setting on your amp. All you need to do is tie in some RCA plugs and there you go. I know this because I did a 603X install when I first got my TSX. Balanced systems are far superior in SQ than the traditional low level RCA inputs. Zapco ruled the car audio scene for years with "Symbolink" which is just a balanced line converter. Old school rules.
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02-06-2017, 08:44 AM
#8
Most people who don't have experience with Xtant don't understand the many capabilities of it and to be quite frank, most are scared of their products due to the board adjustments but whatever... So if the amp has a balanced input switch on it then you're good to go. IF it doesn't, then it will need a BLM plug-in that simply goes in the amp but no need for an LOC but you can run one if you desire. You should take advantage of the fact that Xtant was way ahead of their time (built in LOC) and took care of all of us like that. They also put in a line driver in their amps to boost /reducue input signals (10db increments) to get the most out of your system. Having said that, you should consider getting a 4 channel amp to run those components and give it the power it deserves ESPECIALLY if you are planning on strapping a sub that's gonna take 1000+ watts from that amp LOL!! Just my 2 cents tho.
02-06-2017, 08:58 AM
#10
Most people who don't have experience with Xtant don't understand the many capabilities of it and to be quite frank, most are scared of their products due to the board adjustments but whatever... So if the amp has a balanced input switch on it then you're good to go. IF it doesn't, then it will need a BLM plug-in that simply goes in the amp but no need for an LOC but you can run one if you desire. You should take advantage of the fact that Xtant was way ahead of their time (built in LOC) and took care of all of us like that. They also put in a line driver in their amps to boost /reducue input signals (10db increments) to get the most out of your system. Having said that, you should consider getting a 4 channel amp to run those components and give it the power it deserves ESPECIALLY if you are planning on strapping a sub that's gonna take 1000+ watts from that amp LOL!! Just my 2 cents tho.
And im installing one set of iridiums, the tweeters are in now, when the weather gets warmer im gonna lay down some dynamat in the doors and add the woofers, and put the midrange in the rear deck.
02-06-2017, 11:08 AM
#11
For speakers, you can do the JBL GX600C comps (around $100 on Amazon). Just off factory power they sounded better and added volume over stock. 2 ohm and high sensitivity ftw. At high volumes distortion was uncommon and slight. Adding an amp really lets them shine, though. Also, I don't think much trimming if any was needed to fit them behind the factory grilles.
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hannamand (02-08-2017)
02-06-2017, 10:43 PM
#12
Well the reason i went this route was because the custom system i had previously in my old car was a total train wreck of a nightmare, and i didnt want to deal with headaches for the TL, plus i read online to do systems on this car would be tricky. The same guy that did my amp and radio is developing a pnp amp system that work with the stock amp to power the speakers in the car proper without having to run wires and all that extra stuff. Im not really sure what a balanced input switch is, im still new to audio but how does the LOC work on the amp? since im using the stock radio i dont have any Rca inputs/
And im installing one set of iridiums, the tweeters are in now, when the weather gets warmer im gonna lay down some dynamat in the doors and add the woofers, and put the midrange in the rear deck.
And im installing one set of iridiums, the tweeters are in now, when the weather gets warmer im gonna lay down some dynamat in the doors and add the woofers, and put the midrange in the rear deck.
Just solder in RCA plugs on speaker wires then plug directly into amplifier.
02-07-2017, 08:12 AM
#13
Ok so mid ranges in rear deck? That's not going to yield good results as the imaging will be way off. DLS makes arguably the best speakers in the world and this would not be an optimum configuration. Can I please recommend having someone install them professionally? Heck if you lived near me I would help you. Anyways, your amp has a built in line driver as well as noise gate and balanced inputs. All of this = LOC...Seems that they were thinking about OEM integration a long time ago.
Just solder in RCA plugs on speaker wires then plug directly into amplifier.
Just solder in RCA plugs on speaker wires then plug directly into amplifier.
02-07-2017, 09:01 AM
#14
SD county. I would love to take a shot at the dreaded TL system and put some of these myths about upgrades being a challenge haha. It depends on your vehicle but typically in close proximity to your mid bass driver and/or tweeter like most 3-way comps. Same door or kick panels on each side.... If that's too much you can run them as a 2-way set and be incredibly satisfied as well.
02-07-2017, 09:17 AM
#15
I've been researching the same thing, my 2004 came with a hacked up parts missing, parts not working system. Since I'm replacing basically all the speakers, and OEM new runs about $85 a pair, why not upgrade? Yeah, not so much.
Here's what I've found so far:
The factory radio. Almost universally everyone says "Don't do it!" My car is a Six speed Nav, except that my smartphone has better nav... I'd love to put in a double DIN CarPlay capable radio, and there are people on Youtube that have, but it's not a simple process, you're going to have to fabricate your own mounts, trim, etc... not to mention that the radio is integrated with EVERYTHING, there are hacks on this site where you can get it to display your at the moment MPG, trip computer, etc... in order for it to do that there's a connection to the ODBII engine management computer. I don't claim to be an electronics genus, but I'd hate to pull out the radio and find myself not able to start the engine. It's also integrated into the HVAC, HandsFreeLink, etc, etc, etc. In short, I'd love to replace mine too, but it's not worth it.
There is a way to connect into your phone, play mp3 files, etc though (from what I've heard, haven't tried it yet) Check out GROM HON1U3, for about $150 you're supposed to be able to connect all sorts of stuff, and you can control it with the Nav system's Satilite2 screen.
For speakers:
* Healtoe.com (one of our sponsors) sells a OEM amp with updated internals, and tweeters that match the amp. Check, two speakers down
* Crutchfield sells a Kicker CompS 40CWS82 free air sub that will *almost* fit into the stock location, since I was thinking I was going to build a custom box, cut a hole through the car and port it through the factory grill, cutting a hole and skipping the box seems like a good solution... hopefully I can "bend" instead of cut, if not, plasma torch it is! One more speaker down.
***You mentioned that you're planning on pushing 1000W to a 12" sub. You might be able to use the OEM sub wires to your amp and to the box... seems like you should be able to, the OEM amp has a dedicated sub out, so it sounds like it's doing the work of a crossover already.
Now the problem. You're looking at 2 ohms of impedance coming off the factory amp... most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms... and you can find a really nice pair for half the price of OEM new, but that's going to cut your volume in half. When you do find 2 ohm speakers, they won't fit in the factory holes. In the back there's room behind the speaker, but there isn't room in front of the speaker... so the factory grill won't fit. In the front, you have to cut out the factory mounting to get room behind the speaker, but again, no room in front.
"Just put on the grill that comes with the aftermarket speaker?" you ask... nope, the factory grills are designed to flow with the neighboring trim pieces... not impossible to do, but you're looking at cutting the door panels and probably doing some fabrication work to get it to look right.
Now if the idea of doing the electronics and fabrication work to get a Double DIN and 5 1/4" speakers into the doors and back doesn't scare you, I'd say "If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly." Replace the factory amp with a nice 4 or 5 channel amp, build the ported box that fits between the shock towers in the trunk, throw some 4 way speakers into the door and back. If you do PLEASE post a video to YouTube and leave a link here... it would be a freakin' awesome system. If you can mass produce the parts to get the double DIN to work and still have all the other stuff work you could probably sell them like hot-cakes on eBay... I'd buy it.
Here's what I've found so far:
The factory radio. Almost universally everyone says "Don't do it!" My car is a Six speed Nav, except that my smartphone has better nav... I'd love to put in a double DIN CarPlay capable radio, and there are people on Youtube that have, but it's not a simple process, you're going to have to fabricate your own mounts, trim, etc... not to mention that the radio is integrated with EVERYTHING, there are hacks on this site where you can get it to display your at the moment MPG, trip computer, etc... in order for it to do that there's a connection to the ODBII engine management computer. I don't claim to be an electronics genus, but I'd hate to pull out the radio and find myself not able to start the engine. It's also integrated into the HVAC, HandsFreeLink, etc, etc, etc. In short, I'd love to replace mine too, but it's not worth it.
There is a way to connect into your phone, play mp3 files, etc though (from what I've heard, haven't tried it yet) Check out GROM HON1U3, for about $150 you're supposed to be able to connect all sorts of stuff, and you can control it with the Nav system's Satilite2 screen.
For speakers:
* Healtoe.com (one of our sponsors) sells a OEM amp with updated internals, and tweeters that match the amp. Check, two speakers down
* Crutchfield sells a Kicker CompS 40CWS82 free air sub that will *almost* fit into the stock location, since I was thinking I was going to build a custom box, cut a hole through the car and port it through the factory grill, cutting a hole and skipping the box seems like a good solution... hopefully I can "bend" instead of cut, if not, plasma torch it is! One more speaker down.
***You mentioned that you're planning on pushing 1000W to a 12" sub. You might be able to use the OEM sub wires to your amp and to the box... seems like you should be able to, the OEM amp has a dedicated sub out, so it sounds like it's doing the work of a crossover already.
Now the problem. You're looking at 2 ohms of impedance coming off the factory amp... most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms... and you can find a really nice pair for half the price of OEM new, but that's going to cut your volume in half. When you do find 2 ohm speakers, they won't fit in the factory holes. In the back there's room behind the speaker, but there isn't room in front of the speaker... so the factory grill won't fit. In the front, you have to cut out the factory mounting to get room behind the speaker, but again, no room in front.
"Just put on the grill that comes with the aftermarket speaker?" you ask... nope, the factory grills are designed to flow with the neighboring trim pieces... not impossible to do, but you're looking at cutting the door panels and probably doing some fabrication work to get it to look right.
Now if the idea of doing the electronics and fabrication work to get a Double DIN and 5 1/4" speakers into the doors and back doesn't scare you, I'd say "If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly." Replace the factory amp with a nice 4 or 5 channel amp, build the ported box that fits between the shock towers in the trunk, throw some 4 way speakers into the door and back. If you do PLEASE post a video to YouTube and leave a link here... it would be a freakin' awesome system. If you can mass produce the parts to get the double DIN to work and still have all the other stuff work you could probably sell them like hot-cakes on eBay... I'd buy it.
Last edited by Bchester6; 02-07-2017 at 09:20 AM.
02-07-2017, 09:29 AM
#16
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
SD county. I would love to take a shot at the dreaded TL system and put some of these myths about upgrades being a challenge haha. It depends on your vehicle but typically in close proximity to your mid bass driver and/or tweeter like most 3-way comps. Same door or kick panels on each side.... If that's too much you can run them as a 2-way set and be incredibly satisfied as well.
setup: image dynamics components (pre stock amp) and infinity 10" sub (post stock amp via pac audio LOC) all hooked up to a JL xd 3 channel (along with full sound deadening on all doors and entire trunk)
02-07-2017, 09:44 AM
#17
SD county. I would love to take a shot at the dreaded TL system and put some of these myths about upgrades being a challenge haha. It depends on your vehicle but typically in close proximity to your mid bass driver and/or tweeter like most 3-way comps. Same door or kick panels on each side.... If that's too much you can run them as a 2-way set and be incredibly satisfied as well.
02-07-2017, 02:09 PM
#18
If I were you I would just run them up front with the passive crossovers supplied with the speakers and see how it sounds. If you don't like it then drop down to a 2-way system (tweeters and 6.5 inch midbass only). Placing the mid and customizing a door panel doesn't seem like a suitable alternative for you?
02-07-2017, 02:12 PM
#19
saw that you're in oside too, nice! i did an audio install (fairly cheap but learned everything on my own and worked through some challenges), but i have to agree the TL is definitely a challenge. while i'm very satisfied with my sound, i could never get rid of a constant hiss. it's not super bad but i can hear it and i know it's there even though not one person has noticed it (can't hear it when music is playing...only on pauses and really soft songs). i'd be interested to see what you end up doing for an audio install and see if you have similar issues. i've been to 5 audio shops and they all said the hiss is inherent in the TL system and sometimes it's in a TL and sometimes it's not. i was going to hit up La Jolla Audio (high end shop) as a last ditch effort but just haven't had time to go down there and have them troubleshoot it
setup: image dynamics components (pre stock amp) and infinity 10" sub (post stock amp via pac audio LOC) all hooked up to a JL xd 3 channel (along with full sound deadening on all doors and entire trunk)
setup: image dynamics components (pre stock amp) and infinity 10" sub (post stock amp via pac audio LOC) all hooked up to a JL xd 3 channel (along with full sound deadening on all doors and entire trunk)
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sockr1 (02-07-2017)
02-07-2017, 02:24 PM
#20
In fact I just talked to my buddy who was a repair tech for Cerwin Vega many years ago and he says he knows exactly what to do to get the hiss out of your TL. All good bro save the gas.
02-07-2017, 04:30 PM
#21
If I were you I would just run them up front with the passive crossovers supplied with the speakers and see how it sounds. If you don't like it then drop down to a 2-way system (tweeters and 6.5 inch midbass only). Placing the mid and customizing a door panel doesn't seem like a suitable alternative for you?
02-07-2017, 06:33 PM
#22
Oh so it sounds like the frequencies are internally processed by amp. Sweet. Just swap out the midbass drivers? The only question is what to do with the mid-range without having to trick your door panel out?... I have to admit in this configuration you will be losing output with a 4-ohm speaker. Stock is 2 ohm I believe
Last edited by Bchester6; 02-07-2017 at 06:35 PM.
02-08-2017, 07:52 AM
#23
Oh so it sounds like the frequencies are internally processed by amp. Sweet. Just swap out the midbass drivers? The only question is what to do with the mid-range without having to trick your door panel out?... I have to admit in this configuration you will be losing output with a 4-ohm speaker. Stock is 2 ohm I believe
Here check this out, this is what i got done to my stock amp and radio.
And got this done to the DLS tweeters
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/audio-sy...r.pr.ua67.html
02-08-2017, 08:23 AM
#24
Nice. Looks like they are replacing capacitors to the existing amp and adding an cap to the tweeter cuz it will blow using the full range signal. Power output will be the same though so don't be surprised if you will still have more output from the stock speakers. Those DLS tweeters just sound badass because they are badass!!
02-08-2017, 08:38 AM
#25
Nice. Looks like they are replacing capacitors to the existing amp and adding an cap to the tweeter cuz it will blow using the full range signal. Power output will be the same though so don't be surprised if you will still have more output from the stock speakers. Those DLS tweeters just sound badass because they are badass!!
02-08-2017, 09:51 PM
#26
Got the Heeltoe Silk gold amp installed over the weekend, Works great. Still waiting on the Tweeters, but got the Kicker sub in from Crutchfield today and picked up some Bose 4 1/4" "factory" speakers from eBay.
Crutchfield says the Kicker sub won't fit, not enough clearance below, but I have a plasma torch and I'm not afraid to cut
so it's gonna fit.Looking for the specs on the Silk Gold sub wattage output (the kicker is supposed to handle 400w) I ran across this too:
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsor...pgrade-836276/ Looks like it hasn't been active for five years, but could be a good source of information for people looking to put in non aftermarket amps. IDK
02-10-2017, 08:34 AM
#27
Got the Heeltoe Silk gold amp installed over the weekend, Works great. Still waiting on the Tweeters, but got the Kicker sub in from Crutchfield today and picked up some Bose 4 1/4" "factory" speakers from eBay.
Crutchfield says the Kicker sub won't fit, not enough clearance below, but I have a plasma torch and I'm not afraid to cut
so it's gonna fit.Looking for the specs on the Silk Gold sub wattage output (the kicker is supposed to handle 400w) I ran across this too:
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsor...pgrade-836276/ Looks like it hasn't been active for five years, but could be a good source of information for people looking to put in non aftermarket amps. IDK
Oh snap cut that bisssh lol i got the signature series amp, man with the tweeters upgraded it sounds so damn good, i got the amp and the radio internals done! i want more power though, the guy that makes the amps for heel toe; i got mine directly from him. He actually did speak of working on a Pnp aftermarket option said the cost would be around 500-600. And he said the amp would be powerful and compact, im gonna touch base with him later in the year about that. If thats the case, id glady do that option, anything to avoid running rcas and wiring for a aftermarket amp. ive got this sub
and an Xtant 1001x amp waiting to go in.
02-10-2017, 09:47 AM
#28
the guy that makes the amps for heel toe; i got mine directly from him
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03max6spd (02-10-2017)
02-10-2017, 10:18 AM
#29
I'd love for him to join the discussion! I've been searching all over for specs on the output of the amp I got... Specifically "What's the max wattage on the sub output?" the kicker will handle 400w @ 2 Ohms... Is the amp enough or do I really need to add a mono amp like the Kicker 40KX400.1?
I had his phone number somewhere and lost it -__- His name is Jesse Levi Kelley, look him up on facebook. If you find him he should have all the answers, also tell him Stephen Martindale says whats up and that hes looking for him lol, i gotta ship him back the radio core i have here. lol
02-10-2017, 11:20 PM
#30
That Xtant 1000x is gonna destroy almost any sub you hook up to it... do yourself a favor and get a 4 ohm sub that will take about 600 watts rms. If you get a 2 ohm sub it will be WAY too much for your front comps to keep up with. You will also be upgrading your electical system cuz that thing will pull a ton of current. We won't even get into sound dampening...
02-11-2017, 01:53 PM
#32
Just want to throw my two cents in here. You dont need to upgrade electrical for one 1000 watt amp... Just use good 4 gauge or higher power wires... Also if you want the best sounding bass in your car then use the low level subwoofer preamp signals that go to the stock amp. Also there wont be an issue of your front comps keeping up with your sub. Just adjust the gains properly.
02-11-2017, 07:26 PM
#33
Just want to throw my two cents in here. You dont need to upgrade electrical for one 1000 watt amp... Just use good 4 gauge or higher power wires... Also if you want the best sounding bass in your car then use the low level subwoofer preamp signals that go to the stock amp. Also there wont be an issue of your front comps keeping up with your sub. Just adjust the gains properly.
02-11-2017, 08:53 PM
#35
I would say that in most scenarios you would be correct except if you've ever run old school xtant amplifiers then you would know that they are terribly underrated and will probably be pushing close to 1300 to 1500 of true watts. Also if he truly has the 1001x model and not the 1001 DX model it may be a Class A B amplifier. Regardless , 0 gauge is recommended for this very reason. Setting gains properly is a must when you're talking about this kind of raw power but if you're going to maximize the amps capabilities then you will most definitely be taxing your electrical system. Acuras come with a pretty beefed-up electrical system but why put that kind of strain on your vehicle.
02-12-2017, 04:27 PM
#37
02-12-2017, 11:14 PM
#40
Have you guys heard the nvx xsp tweeters? I have them still but have not experimented too much with tweeters aside from those and the Morel mdt12.
Last edited by stevemk07; 02-12-2017 at 11:19 PM.