2014/2015 Transmission Fluid Change
#1
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Thread Starter
2014/2015 Transmission Fluid Change
Has any one changed their own transmission fluid on the 2014/2015 MDX six speed? I'm looking at doing my own, and just checking over the tranny, it appears to be set up similar to previous generation Acura/Honda trannys.
Drain plug is easy to get to, though I'm not sure if you can refill through the dipstick (which I've done on the previous 5-speed auto). I would rather not remove the fill bolt, since it is a pain the rear to reach and normally has been difficult to loosen.
Drain plug is easy to get to, though I'm not sure if you can refill through the dipstick (which I've done on the previous 5-speed auto). I would rather not remove the fill bolt, since it is a pain the rear to reach and normally has been difficult to loosen.
#2
Has any one changed their own transmission fluid on the 2014/2015 MDX six speed? I'm looking at doing my own, and just checking over the tranny, it appears to be set up similar to previous generation Acura/Honda trannys.
Drain plug is easy to get to, though I'm not sure if you can refill through the dipstick (which I've done on the previous 5-speed auto). I would rather not remove the fill bolt, since it is a pain the rear to reach and normally has been difficult to loosen.
Drain plug is easy to get to, though I'm not sure if you can refill through the dipstick (which I've done on the previous 5-speed auto). I would rather not remove the fill bolt, since it is a pain the rear to reach and normally has been difficult to loosen.
Also if you have warranty and the transmission flush is part of the required maintenance. I would let the dealer handle it just so that you don't run into trouble down the road. They can't deny warranty for sevicing somewhere else, doesn't mean they won't try!
#3
Has any one changed their own transmission fluid on the 2014/2015 MDX six speed? I'm looking at doing my own, and just checking over the tranny, it appears to be set up similar to previous generation Acura/Honda trannys.
Drain plug is easy to get to, though I'm not sure if you can refill through the dipstick (which I've done on the previous 5-speed auto). I would rather not remove the fill bolt, since it is a pain the rear to reach and normally has been difficult to loosen.
Drain plug is easy to get to, though I'm not sure if you can refill through the dipstick (which I've done on the previous 5-speed auto). I would rather not remove the fill bolt, since it is a pain the rear to reach and normally has been difficult to loosen.
Hi Hondu!
I just did mine last weekend and it's wasn't hard at all. Once you located the Fill/Drain Plugs. You are good to go. I did look through the hood and didn't see the Dipstick on 2016 Model. (maybe picture may help?)
Here's the link...
2016 MDX/Tech SH-AWD B16 (with pictures) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Please let me know.
#4
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Thread Starter
Hi Hondu!
I just did mine last weekend and it's wasn't hard at all. Once you located the Fill/Drain Plugs. You are good to go. I did look through the hood and didn't see the Dipstick on 2016 Model. (maybe picture may help?)
Here's the link...
2016 MDX/Tech SH-AWD B16 (with pictures) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Please let me know.
I just did mine last weekend and it's wasn't hard at all. Once you located the Fill/Drain Plugs. You are good to go. I did look through the hood and didn't see the Dipstick on 2016 Model. (maybe picture may help?)
Here's the link...
2016 MDX/Tech SH-AWD B16 (with pictures) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Please let me know.
The drain plug is located very close to the oil pan at the front of the engine (might not need to even lift the vehicle to access) and the fill plug is up top, though very low in the engine bay in the back, right.
The dipstick is also very low in the front of the engine bay, near the radiator. The 2016 model has a different automatic transmission (9 speed), so I cannot comment on their locations.
Last edited by hondu; 01-27-2016 at 06:53 AM.
#5
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Thread Starter
I honestly can't advise as to whether or not you can fill from the dipstick. I know on the past models, you can, so I don't see why not. My one point of advice and reason for commenting is to tell you, make sure you can fill through the dipstick before doing anything, and then make sure you can get off the fill plug before the drain plug in case the dip stick won't work.
Also if you have warranty and the transmission flush is part of the required maintenance. I would let the dealer handle it just so that you don't run into trouble down the road. They can't deny warranty for sevicing somewhere else, doesn't mean they won't try!
Also if you have warranty and the transmission flush is part of the required maintenance. I would let the dealer handle it just so that you don't run into trouble down the road. They can't deny warranty for sevicing somewhere else, doesn't mean they won't try!
Changing tranny fluid is even easier than an oil change if you can refill the thing. No filter to worry about, so it is simple as removing the drain plug, drain and re-plug. Measure what came out and refill. Just need to make sure you do not over or underfill.
#6
irobot, your links refer to changing the rear differential fluid and oil change. Sorry, but I am talking about the automatic transmission fluid, so I'm somewhat confused by your post
The drain plug is located very close to the oil pan at the front of the engine (might not need to even lift the vehicle to access) and the fill plug is up top, though very low in the engine bay in the back, right.
The dipstick is also very low in the front of the engine bay, near the radiator. The 2016 model has a different automatic transmission (9 speed), so I cannot comment on their locations.
The drain plug is located very close to the oil pan at the front of the engine (might not need to even lift the vehicle to access) and the fill plug is up top, though very low in the engine bay in the back, right.
The dipstick is also very low in the front of the engine bay, near the radiator. The 2016 model has a different automatic transmission (9 speed), so I cannot comment on their locations.
Thanks Hondu,
Well I am going to do the B3. transmission fluid/transfer fluid later in a couple months.
I would love to have some advise here. Any instructions or tips or with pictures to located those drain/fill plugs would appreciate.
I have 2016 Model and not sure if it change much seen mine is 9 speeds. Please give me some instructions on how to replace the B3. (step by step)
Thanks again.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks Hondu,
Well I am going to do the B3. transmission fluid/transfer fluid later in a couple months.
I would love to have some advise here. Any instructions or tips or with pictures to located those drain/fill plugs would appreciate.
I have 2016 Model and not sure if it change much seen mine is 9 speeds. Please give me some instructions on how to replace the B3. (step by step)
Thanks again.
Well I am going to do the B3. transmission fluid/transfer fluid later in a couple months.
I would love to have some advise here. Any instructions or tips or with pictures to located those drain/fill plugs would appreciate.
I have 2016 Model and not sure if it change much seen mine is 9 speeds. Please give me some instructions on how to replace the B3. (step by step)
Thanks again.
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#8
#10
So, I ended up doing my transmission, transfer case, and rear differential fluid change on my 2014 MDX. I just bought it used, and i'm not sure what the previous owner changed.
The transmission and transfer case are fairly easy.
Transmission:
1. remove metal shield, and unbolt drain plug.
2. Wait for it to drain. It takes a LONG TIME to drain. I'd say give it at least an hour. I thought it was done, just single drip, and I put the plug back on. 20 minutes later, I realized I forgot to put the washer back on, and i pull the plug again, and was greeted by a gush of fluid.
3. Measure what you take out. A clear pale with measurements on it works great. I got 5 quarts out, which is more than expected. Can't say why.
4. I re-filled it using the dipstick in the front of the engine. Squeeze a funnel to stuff it down in there, and line it up with the dipstick hole.
Transfer case. (used Valvoline 80w90, which ironically is what the Acura dealer sold me, not the HGO fluid)
1. Always remove the fill bolt before the drain bolt. You don't want to get stuck with a drained transfer case with no way to fill it.
2. once drained, just take the tube of oil, and stuff it in the fill hole, and squeeze real good. squeeze the bottle until the fluid starts coming out of the top.
3. put fill bolt back on. tighten, but not too much. This is aluminum after all. Don't want to strip any threads.
Rear differential. This was by far the hardest, mostly from rusted bolts and needing to use a pump to fill it.
1. I had rust inside my bolts, so if you do to, take a pick or something small to pick out any rust/sand that might be in the hole. It helps when you're trying to get the ratchet on.
Also, it helps when your friend has a lift in his garage
2. Once you make sure you can get the fill plug off, take off the drain plug and wait for it to drain.
Make sure you get the proper Acura All wheel drive fluid.
You'll need a pump like this one, to screw onto the bottles, and pump into the rear differential.
After it's drained, put the drain plug back on, and fill using pump until fluid flows out of the fill plug.
Note: If your bolts look like mine, save yourself some hassle, and just buy new bolts to put in. I didn't realize mine were so rusted, so I'll replace them on the next change.
Hope this helps someone.
The transmission and transfer case are fairly easy.
Transmission:
1. remove metal shield, and unbolt drain plug.
2. Wait for it to drain. It takes a LONG TIME to drain. I'd say give it at least an hour. I thought it was done, just single drip, and I put the plug back on. 20 minutes later, I realized I forgot to put the washer back on, and i pull the plug again, and was greeted by a gush of fluid.
3. Measure what you take out. A clear pale with measurements on it works great. I got 5 quarts out, which is more than expected. Can't say why.
4. I re-filled it using the dipstick in the front of the engine. Squeeze a funnel to stuff it down in there, and line it up with the dipstick hole.
Transfer case. (used Valvoline 80w90, which ironically is what the Acura dealer sold me, not the HGO fluid)
1. Always remove the fill bolt before the drain bolt. You don't want to get stuck with a drained transfer case with no way to fill it.
2. once drained, just take the tube of oil, and stuff it in the fill hole, and squeeze real good. squeeze the bottle until the fluid starts coming out of the top.
3. put fill bolt back on. tighten, but not too much. This is aluminum after all. Don't want to strip any threads.
Rear differential. This was by far the hardest, mostly from rusted bolts and needing to use a pump to fill it.
1. I had rust inside my bolts, so if you do to, take a pick or something small to pick out any rust/sand that might be in the hole. It helps when you're trying to get the ratchet on.
Also, it helps when your friend has a lift in his garage
2. Once you make sure you can get the fill plug off, take off the drain plug and wait for it to drain.
Make sure you get the proper Acura All wheel drive fluid.
You'll need a pump like this one, to screw onto the bottles, and pump into the rear differential.
After it's drained, put the drain plug back on, and fill using pump until fluid flows out of the fill plug.
Note: If your bolts look like mine, save yourself some hassle, and just buy new bolts to put in. I didn't realize mine were so rusted, so I'll replace them on the next change.
Hope this helps someone.
The following 3 users liked this post by vtloki:
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
So, I ended up doing my transmission, transfer case, and rear differential fluid change on my 2014 MDX. I just bought it used, and i'm not sure what the previous owner changed.
The transmission and transfer case are fairly easy.
Transmission:
1. remove metal shield, and unbolt drain plug.
2. Wait for it to drain. It takes a LONG TIME to drain. I'd say give it at least an hour. I thought it was done, just single drip, and I put the plug back on. 20 minutes later, I realized I forgot to put the washer back on, and i pull the plug again, and was greeted by a gush of fluid.
3. Measure what you take out. A clear pale with measurements on it works great. I got 5 quarts out, which is more than expected. Can't say why.
4. I re-filled it using the dipstick in the front of the engine. Squeeze a funnel to stuff it down in there, and line it up with the dipstick hole.
Transfer case. (used Valvoline 80w90, which ironically is what the Acura dealer sold me, not the HGO fluid)
1. Always remove the fill bolt before the drain bolt. You don't want to get stuck with a drained transfer case with no way to fill it.
2. once drained, just take the tube of oil, and stuff it in the fill hole, and squeeze real good. squeeze the bottle until the fluid starts coming out of the top.
3. put fill bolt back on. tighten, but not too much. This is aluminum after all. Don't want to strip any threads.
Rear differential. This was by far the hardest, mostly from rusted bolts and needing to use a pump to fill it.
1. I had rust inside my bolts, so if you do to, take a pick or something small to pick out any rust/sand that might be in the hole. It helps when you're trying to get the ratchet on.
Also, it helps when your friend has a lift in his garage
2. Once you make sure you can get the fill plug off, take off the drain plug and wait for it to drain.
Make sure you get the proper Acura All wheel drive fluid.
You'll need a pump like this one, to screw onto the bottles, and pump into the rear differential.
After it's drained, put the drain plug back on, and fill using pump until fluid flows out of the fill plug.
Note: If your bolts look like mine, save yourself some hassle, and just buy new bolts to put in. I didn't realize mine were so rusted, so I'll replace them on the next change.
Hope this helps someone.
The transmission and transfer case are fairly easy.
Transmission:
1. remove metal shield, and unbolt drain plug.
2. Wait for it to drain. It takes a LONG TIME to drain. I'd say give it at least an hour. I thought it was done, just single drip, and I put the plug back on. 20 minutes later, I realized I forgot to put the washer back on, and i pull the plug again, and was greeted by a gush of fluid.
3. Measure what you take out. A clear pale with measurements on it works great. I got 5 quarts out, which is more than expected. Can't say why.
4. I re-filled it using the dipstick in the front of the engine. Squeeze a funnel to stuff it down in there, and line it up with the dipstick hole.
Transfer case. (used Valvoline 80w90, which ironically is what the Acura dealer sold me, not the HGO fluid)
1. Always remove the fill bolt before the drain bolt. You don't want to get stuck with a drained transfer case with no way to fill it.
2. once drained, just take the tube of oil, and stuff it in the fill hole, and squeeze real good. squeeze the bottle until the fluid starts coming out of the top.
3. put fill bolt back on. tighten, but not too much. This is aluminum after all. Don't want to strip any threads.
Rear differential. This was by far the hardest, mostly from rusted bolts and needing to use a pump to fill it.
1. I had rust inside my bolts, so if you do to, take a pick or something small to pick out any rust/sand that might be in the hole. It helps when you're trying to get the ratchet on.
Also, it helps when your friend has a lift in his garage
2. Once you make sure you can get the fill plug off, take off the drain plug and wait for it to drain.
Make sure you get the proper Acura All wheel drive fluid.
You'll need a pump like this one, to screw onto the bottles, and pump into the rear differential.
After it's drained, put the drain plug back on, and fill using pump until fluid flows out of the fill plug.
Note: If your bolts look like mine, save yourself some hassle, and just buy new bolts to put in. I didn't realize mine were so rusted, so I'll replace them on the next change.
Hope this helps someone.
I figured it would be possible to fill through the dipstick, which is also what I've done in the past. A long narrow funnel usually fits great on the dipstick opening.
Thanks for the post!
#13
Wrong fluid. Talking about transmission not transfer case
Hi Hondu!
I just did mine last weekend and it's wasn't hard at all. Once you located the Fill/Drain Plugs. You are good to go. I did look through the hood and didn't see the Dipstick on 2016 Model. (maybe picture may help?)
Here's the link...
2016 MDX/Tech SH-AWD B16 (with pictures) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Please let me know.
I just did mine last weekend and it's wasn't hard at all. Once you located the Fill/Drain Plugs. You are good to go. I did look through the hood and didn't see the Dipstick on 2016 Model. (maybe picture may help?)
Here's the link...
2016 MDX/Tech SH-AWD B16 (with pictures) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Please let me know.
#17
Thanks for the video. I was searching the internet for the location of the filter in my 2014 MDX but couldn't find it. I will use this video to look for it in my car.
Also does anybody know if the Redline Racing (type F) fluids and the lightweight racing ATF mix will fit the 2014 MDX? I have 8 quartz left from my previous car (08 TL) which I ended up selling before I did the fluids change.
Can I use the mix of the two like I would on the TL or I am limited only to the D4 and D6?
Also does anybody know if the Redline Racing (type F) fluids and the lightweight racing ATF mix will fit the 2014 MDX? I have 8 quartz left from my previous car (08 TL) which I ended up selling before I did the fluids change.
Can I use the mix of the two like I would on the TL or I am limited only to the D4 and D6?
#19
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Thread Starter
So I just changed the tranny fluid in my MDX, which was very easy, but the only problem I have is reading the dipstick. I drained a little less than 4 quarts and added 4 quarts. It looks like the dipstick is directional due to the notch on one side and the wording only on one side of the dipstick.
The reason I ask is because on the marked side of the stick, it reads right at the correct level. On the back side, which is not marked, the fluid is way over full. So am I correct to just read the one side?
The reason I ask is because on the marked side of the stick, it reads right at the correct level. On the back side, which is not marked, the fluid is way over full. So am I correct to just read the one side?
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