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Item 21 & the plastics is all that is need to to fit a group 24F or 35 battery into the 4 cylinder models. The battery area on the V6 is pretty tight. There should be more room in the 4 cylinder. I see no reason why the V6 parts would not fit.
ssjoeboe seemed to confirm previously that the v6 box does not fit in the i4?
ssjoeboe seemed to confirm previously that the v6 box does not fit in the i4?
I don't have a 4 cylinder to confirm that. But I can't see Honda changing the frame for a metal battery tray & one Country where the V6 is sold. They are more likely to design the metal tray to fit the frame & not the other way around.
The point here guys.... the V6 battery/ tray are not a perfect swap. Work has to be done to make it fit. At this point you might as well get a different battery if you willing to modify the V6. I assume the whole point of the post was to understand if you had to modify anything to make the V6 fit. The answer is no (it won't fit without modification).. So either buy an equally as good if not better than OEM battery that fits, or modify the V6 to make it fit. I think it's pretty simple.
The point here guys.... the V6 battery/ tray are not a perfect swap. Work has to be done to make it fit. At this point you might as well get a different battery if you willing to modify the V6. I assume the whole point of the post was to understand if you had to modify anything to make the V6 fit. The answer is no (it won't fit without modification).. So either buy an equally as good if not better than OEM battery that fits, or modify the V6 to make it fit. I think it's pretty simple.
The only place I'm lacking clarification (and I think what Evo9 is also trying to figure out) is whether swapping the battery base (item #21) then allows for the battery tray/box to fit.
Looking at the diagram they look the same. We really would need to see them side by side.
If someone has a V6 and is willing to take some pictures of it, maybe do some measurements, and show exactly where it mounts to the chassis, then we could probably determine if the battery base can be swapped. Again, not the box, but item 21, which is what the box sits on.
Compare the two following photos. It looks like there is a hole towards the top (right on the v6 picture, top on the i4) that is missing. There is also a lower bolt (left on v6 pic, bottom on i4 pic) that looks positioned slightly different but may still work. Furthermore, I haven't had the chance to do anything more than use my phone camera to snake around my engine bay and look at pictures of our part online, but it looks like the bottom of the tray may be ever so slighlty deeper on the v6.
I'll try to take my battery out tonight and look more. It would be helpful to see it oriented the same way as your photos. If all the other holes line up, then it would be possible to drill out the missing hole.
If it looks good I think I may order the v6 tray, leave it in the packaging and see if it lines up. If it doesn't look good I'll still be able to return the part. Might be a couple weeks before we find out still, either if it fits or why it doesn't.
Crutchfield has is for $249. You need a post kit too though.
The v6 tray isn't looking like it will be as easy as swapping parts and moving on, and it too would require modification. The other thing I realized is that the tray looks to be painted to match the color of the vehicle, so if I were to do that properly (still assuming it fits appropriately and you drill the extra hole) you still need to get it painted.
I think the XS Power battery is probably money better spent personally.
Got the accord v6 tie down plate and perfect fit. I used the 4cyl J-rods (195mm or 7.5in in length). So if you go my route, you just need the battery and the plate.
My battery has died 3 times this fall- winter so far . Orig battery 2012 tech 33k . Would love to put V6 24F in place of under powered original one . Where can you purchase north star battery? I don't mind buying V6 battery tray and the other parts if it fits ok .
My battery has died 3 times this fall- winter so far . Orig battery 2012 tech 33k . Would love to put V6 24F in place of under powered original one . Where can you purchase north star battery? I don't mind buying V6 battery tray and the other parts if it fits ok .
The parts are not as simple as swapping them.
Your best two options are to do what either Username 0 did, which was to purchase an Optima RedTop battery for the v6 and use the riser, plus swap over the v6 tie down. You could likely use any v6 battery that is similar in design (with riser) to the one Username 0 used.
Alternatively you could give the XS Power D5100R a go. D5100R - 12V AGM Battery This fits without modification, has 745 CA and 635 CCA (I emailed for the CCA amount, since it isn't listed on the page). This is less than the aftermarket v6 capacity (a rep from oemacuraparts.com confirmed that the I4 and V6 stock batteries have 500cca and 550cca respectively), but is significantly more than stock and other aftermarket batteries.
Got the accord v6 tie down plate and perfect fit. I used the 4cyl J-rods (195mm or 7.5in in length). So if you go my route, you just need the battery and the plate.
Looks great. I'm wondering if you cracked the code here. Not getting into the topic of Optima batteries, I'm wondering if all group 35 batteries are compatible with just the V6 bracket. I noticed this red top uses a riser. I'm assuming this riser brings the battery to the height of a standard group 35 battery. Since you have done the swap, what's your take on this? Is it as simple as me buying the top bracket and a group 35 battery and I'm ready to drop it in? No replacement J hooks or other modifications?
That's pretty much it. Just get the 35 battery and the v6 accord top bracket and that's it. The bracket was only $10 on eBay. Brand new oem Honda part.
Thats exactly what I did and I'm very happy with it and how oem it looks.
That's pretty much it. Just get the 35 battery and the v6 accord top bracket and that's it. The bracket was only $10 on eBay. Brand new oem Honda part.
Thats exactly what I did and I'm very happy with it and how oem it looks.
Perfect. How about the battery box (what the battery sits on). This will need to be removed?
Also I need to order a few odds and ends for the car so I may use a OEM Acura parts site. Ill make sure later, but is this Honda bracket you used identicle to the Acura V6 bracket? May make it easier for me to order a handful of things in one order.
I think any Honda/acura v6 battery bracket will fit. There are a few different part numbers but they all do the same thing.
I ditched the battery box because the 35 battery is to big to fit inside it. I didn't see it as a nessessary part to get anyway. It's optional.
I just put a Walmart Everstart Maxx 24R battery (750 CCA, $93) in my 09 4 cyl. I dremeled off the sides of the plastic battery tray to give the battery a flat platform to sit on. I used an Advance Auto battery holder as I needed longer J-bolts. Then I ordered the V6 top "strap" as the one that came with my Advance holder was rubber and doesn't seem rigid enough. I'll take a pic once the new top strap gets here. I only drove it once briefly this evening, but all the electrical systems in the car seem better: the radio, the starter, the headlights, all better. I've only owned the car since October. The battery I pulled left me stranded in a parking lot last week after only about 10 minutes listening to the radio. It was a Honda battery, but I don't know how long it was in there as I bought the car used.
I just put a Walmart Everstart Maxx 24R battery (750 CCA, $93) in my 09 4 cyl. I dremeled off the sides of the plastic battery tray to give the battery a flat platform to sit on. I used an Advance Auto battery holder as I needed longer J-bolts. Then I ordered the V6 top "strap" as the one that came with my Advance holder was rubber and doesn't seem rigid enough. I'll take a pic once the new top strap gets here. I only drove it once briefly this evening, but all the electrical systems in the car seem better: the radio, the starter, the headlights, all better. I've only owned the car since October. The battery I pulled left me stranded in a parking lot last week after only about 10 minutes listening to the radio. It was a Honda battery, but I don't know how long it was in there as I bought the car used.
I find it very interesting that many people say the radio/headlights etc work better with the bigger battery. What specifically is better about the radio? Does it still do that annoying "lower volume" when you slow/stop the vehicle?
I find it very interesting that many people say the radio/headlights etc work better with the bigger battery. What specifically is better about the radio? Does it still do that annoying "lower volume" when you slow/stop the vehicle?
750CCA is amazing btw. Get us a photo or two
I think the lower volume thing is a feature. It's a setting in the audio menu. Something about "speed adaptive volume" or something. It makes the radio louder as the cabin noise increases. You should be able to manually turn it off (or to one of three sensitivity settings).
But if you knew that and your stereo is doing something different, I have no clue. It shouldn't do that.
I think the lower volume thing is a feature. It's a setting in the audio menu. Something about "speed adaptive volume" or something. It makes the radio louder as the cabin noise increases. You should be able to manually turn it off (or to one of three sensitivity settings).
But if you knew that and your stereo is doing something different, I have no clue. It shouldn't do that.
Didn't know this setting existed. Coming from a 2001 vehicle, I figured the speed adaptive volume was a safety feature that was hard coded in the system. I'll look for that setting this evening
With all this talk about installing a bigger battery, putting in a thicker ground cable from the battery to the chassis would also help, especially if you have any audio amplifiers installed.
With all this talk about installing a bigger battery, putting in a thicker ground cable from the battery to the chassis would also help, especially if you have any audio amplifiers installed.
Great suggestion!
I haven't done it to the TSX but for those that don't know, look up youtube videos on upgrading the big 3. When I did it on my old Civic, I did notice a huge difference. At idle and with ac on, the headlights would dim slightly and start up was slow, engine would vibrate. After the upgrading the big 3 with 0 gauge wire ( a little extreme for a civic lol ) all those things changed. Headlights didn't dim, start up was was instant, engine was quieter and less shaky and the car felt stronger (last part might have been a placebo, it was a Civic after all lol )
Rockstar143 went through some shenanigans with the big 3 "upgrade" that was on the blue car he bought. The TL;DR is that you should use the big 3 wiring in addition to the OEM grounding. Fun read starts here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post15787782
Rockstar143 went through some shenanigans with the big 3 "upgrade" that was on the blue car he bought. The TL;DR is that you should use the big 3 wiring in addition to the OEM grounding. Fun read starts here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post15787782
Interesting, so the larger ground was causing issues with his electrical?
I'm not sure it was quite that simple. The previous owner removed the OEM grounds and replaced with the larger gauge wiring. Suspicion is that the large gauge wire had some issue (not sure if it was bad crimps on the terminals, bad alloy in the strands, oxidation, or whatever) and so he had ground problems which resulted in some bad juju to the ECU.
I've never done the ground upgrade, but like anything, you likely get what you pay for... If you're buying a China special kit and the price is lower than the cost of the amount of copper that should be in it? Well, you might have issues.
I still think a good rule of thumb is to keep the OEM wiring intact and add to it. That way, you're at least as bad as the car came stock and any changes from the big-3 would be an improvement.
Ok, the V6 hold down came today. Definitely much sturdier than the rubber piece that came with the Advance Auto kit. As promised, here are a couple pics.
Also, to me, the radio has always had really harsh sounding treble and bass that was loud but "boomy" or "uncontrolled" (not sure how to describe it). Once I replaced the battery, everything sounds about right without having to mess with the EQ settings. The treble is definitely better to my ears and the bass seems more solid. I'll concede that it very well could be all in head, but I wasn't expecting the radio to sound different after the battery was upgraded (but I would swear it does). I was planning to some audio upgrades, starting with the head unit, but now I'm considering just leaving the stock setup intact.
Ok, the V6 hold down came today. Definitely much sturdier than the rubber piece that came with the Advance Auto kit. As promised, here are a couple pics.
Also, to me, the radio has always had really harsh sounding treble and bass that was loud but "boomy" or "uncontrolled" (not sure how to describe it). Once I replaced the battery, everything sounds about right without having to mess with the EQ settings. The treble is definitely better to my ears and the bass seems more solid. I'll concede that it very well could be all in head, but I wasn't expecting the radio to sound different after the battery was upgraded (but I would swear it does). I was planning to some audio upgrades, starting with the head unit, but now I'm considering just leaving the stock setup intact.
I agree. I do also want to clarify that I'm not suggesting that my new Group 24 (V6) battery is actually making the electronics better than a new group 51 (stock) battery would have. I bought my car used a few months ago, and I suspect my battery was on its way out the whole time I've owned the car. I'm sure a new stock battery would have the done the job for now as well. I do hope the upgraded battery will last longer, especially given the fun Michigan winters we get here. :-)
Once I replaced the battery, everything sounds about right without having to mess with the EQ settings. The treble is definitely better to my ears and the bass seems more solid. I'll concede that it very well could be all in head, but I wasn't expecting the radio to sound different after the battery was upgraded (but I would swear it does). I was planning to some audio upgrades, starting with the head unit, but now I'm considering just leaving the stock setup intact.
would the sound have changed because you replaced the battery and usually when you do this, unless you had one of those cigarette backup batteries installed, all the settings to your stereo get reset to default settings? Thus, the sound change?
Picked a handful of OEM parts to do the 24F battery swap. I'm going to cut the box like the others users have done, but I ordered a replacement so I don't have to gut my current one (personal preference).
I'll pick up the replacement battery (most likely from Advanced Auto Parts) once I get all the parts. With shipping, these parts ran about $25. I plan on using an electric saw vs. a Dremel to cut the battery box. I know in the past I have used Dremel discs on plastic, and it usually gets messy and starts melting the plastic and gets real stinky
I accidentally left one of my map lights on for over 24 hours and my tsx started right up! If I still had my old battery, it would of been dead for sure.
And.... um..... why doesnt the tsx come with auto-shut off interior lights for forgetful people like me?? You would think it's a factory feature for an Acura like these.
I'll pick up the replacement battery (most likely from Advanced Auto Parts) once I get all the parts. With shipping, these parts ran about $25. I plan on using an electric saw vs. a Dremel to cut the battery box. I know in the past I have used Dremel discs on plastic, and it usually gets messy and starts melting the plastic and gets real stinky
They make Dremel cutting wheels specifically for plastic. Not too much melting or smell in my experience.
Originally Posted by Username 0
I accidentally left one of my map lights on for over 24 hours and my tsx started right up! If I still had my old battery, it would of been dead for sure.
And.... um..... why doesnt the tsx come with auto-shut off interior lights for forgetful people like me?? You would think it's a factory feature for an Acura like these.
Argh, tell me about it. My wife's odyssey automatically turns the overhead lights off after like 30 seconds with the doors left open, but if the kids leave a map light on, it's dead battery in the morning. Before the Odyssey and TSX, I've always owned GM cars and they have automatically turned off left on lights for years.
I accidentally left one of my map lights on for over 24 hours and my tsx started right up! If I still had my old battery, it would of been dead for sure.
And.... um..... why doesnt the tsx come with auto-shut off interior lights for forgetful people like me?? You would think it's a factory feature for an Acura like these.
probably cuz our Acuras are really just Hondas with a different badge
12-19-2016, 05:09 PM
probably cuz our Acuras are really just Hondas with a different badge