Transmission - rebuild or used?

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Old 08-02-2016, 08:47 PM
  #41  
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It has to be an 06 or 07 non hybrid. There are a few sensors that get swapped over etc.. Range switch.. You can read the diy to see the details. The computers don't get changed. If you are near north NJ there is a guy Paul who can do the swap.
Old 08-04-2016, 10:03 PM
  #42  
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I have called couple of local transmission shops, they are quoting $2300-3000 installed; They are offering 2 yrs/24,000 miles warranty. They tell me, they don't rebuild everything with OEM parts, some parts which are prone to failure with OEM, they put in after market parts. They also change few things to alleviate the design flaws with Honda transmissions. They are also going to change torque converter. I'm not sure how well these local rebuild shops are able to test the tranny before they put it on unlike remanufacturing shops where they put it on dynamo and replicate under load conditions. What does the accurazine community think of these rebuilds? I need to use this car for another 50-60K miles.
Old 08-26-2016, 07:56 PM
  #43  
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I have been considering the same issue and ended up going with a rebuild. There is a Honda shop near me that does a rebuild using aftermarket torque converter and a larger filter for $1500, warrantied for a year called Motor-Works in Peoria AZ. I looked around at odyssey and accord transmissions that were used but just didn't feel comfortable putting a transmission in that already had high miles on it (kinda expect it would fail as well). If you find one with low miles I could see the swap being just as good. Shop around and definitely don't pay more than $2000 in total for the job, there is no need for getting crappy OEM parts for a rebuild when they will fail again. Any standard trans shop is gonna tell you its $4000 out the door for a transmission but that's just ridiculous. Check on craigslist, junkyards and automotix for used ones and stay 2007 or later if you're doing a swap. That's my two cents.
Old 12-08-2016, 03:04 AM
  #44  
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I have same issue with 2003 TL, only 120k miles..... Stated w slipping and P0740 last month.
Fluid is not terribly burnt or full of crud. Can tranny be saved?
It actually behaved almost perfectly for 2 weeks after P0740 after I cleaned solenoid screens and did 2x drain/fill. but then it acted up again a few days ago and added sudden split-second braking & release feeling while driving along in 3rd & 4th. Not safe to drive now. Even did the solenoid clean again but no 2-week improvement this time. But behaves pretty good til it warms up in a mile or so!
1) anyone know a tranny shop or person near Raleigh NC for great A5 2003 TL diagnostics?
2) should I just throw some pressure switches and linear solenoids at it myself??
3) or Know a Raleigh shop or individual you'd recommend for a Reman install, or a AV6 Accord swap! Really interested in the AV6 vs 2003 Reman! If I can find someone and a good LKQ...

Must be near Raleigh! Help?
Old 12-08-2016, 09:47 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mike_engr
I have same issue with 2003 TL, only 120k miles..... Stated w slipping and P0740 last month.
Fluid is not terribly burnt or full of crud. Can tranny be saved?
It actually behaved almost perfectly for 2 weeks after P0740 after I cleaned solenoid screens and did 2x drain/fill. but then it acted up again a few days ago and added sudden split-second braking & release feeling while driving along in 3rd & 4th. Not safe to drive now. Even did the solenoid clean again but no 2-week improvement this time. But behaves pretty good til it warms up in a mile or so!
1) anyone know a tranny shop or person near Raleigh NC for great A5 2003 TL diagnostics?
2) should I just throw some pressure switches and linear solenoids at it myself??
3) or Know a Raleigh shop or individual you'd recommend for a Reman install, or a AV6 Accord swap! Really interested in the AV6 vs 2003 Reman! If I can find someone and a good LKQ...

Must be near Raleigh! Help?
#2 has my vote.

You should try the 100% ATF exchange, stop n go, and follow by throwing some solenoids at it if you want. However, the pressure solenoids are not cheap but you can use them in the replacement tranny if this doesn't work.

In order of importance, you might try the following.

1. 100 % ATF/Stop n go. See the link.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ission-943471/

2. Replace the ATF external filter.

3. Check screen on Pressure C solenoid.

4. Check Screens under Pressure A/B at the end of the 3 small pipes. Replace the 3 O-rings.

5. Replace the torque converter solenoid.

6. Replace the Pressure C Solenoid.

7. Replace the Pressure A/B solenoid. (A guy on YouTube was chasing the P740 code and fixed the P0740 code by replacing this solenoid).
Old 12-08-2016, 01:25 PM
  #46  
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Thanks, 01ACLS! I like that route too. I don't mind throwing a few solenoids at it because I know it ran pretty well for 2weeks after messing with the Solenoids a few weeks ago, and even now it worked for the first mile or two and then starts faulting after its warmed up I guess....
But can you help me Identify/confirm the Solenoids - - everyone throws around AB C, etc... too much....
Sounds Like A/B is the dual Linear Solenoid on a single metal plate? Yes?
Torque converter solenoid is the Single Linear Solenoid on a single metal plate? Yes?

Do you know the symptoms of the individual pressure switches, and where each is located? I'd love a labeled pic of a B7WA ! I think some have Brown connectors (Shift C?) and some are Black (ShiftB?), and that's how they are identified???
Or are those the "non-linear" solenoids - - i.e. the ones shaped like an old-fashioned PCV valve??

I think this afternoon I am gonna warm it up and then drain and strain the ATF (~4 qts) to try to confirm to myself that there is not a lot of deteriorated metal or debris in it.
If the fluid checks out then I'll order both linear solenoids and try swapping them in....
If the fluid is full of solids/metal I'll be looking at finding someone to install a reman 2003 tranny since I've had zero luck finding a AV6 Accord swap guy around here!!!
Still have a few days, maybe I will get lucky! Let me know if anyone knows a TL AV6 Accord swap guy near Raleigh with the experience and capability!

Thanks!
Old 12-08-2016, 01:47 PM
  #47  
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I hope you've reviewed the link in #1 above. You have to clean the torque converter (stop n go), hence the 100% ATF exchange.


#10 (upper) Torque Converter solenoid
#7 Pressure C solenoid
#6 Pressure A/B solenoid; #18. O-Rings

Last edited by 01acls; 12-08-2016 at 01:56 PM.
Old 12-10-2016, 06:38 AM
  #48  
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Awesome. Thanks. I have found that diagram, but without the #10,#7,#6 descriptors! Thanks! I think it would be a great service to the community to have all of the solenoids and pressure switches identified (someday?)....

But alas, I checked the fluid the other nite cause the tranny is acting worse now than ~4 weeks ago.. . The 2X drain fill fluid is dark and has a metal sheen to it.

I think I am ready for the 2006/2007 ACCORD AV6 swap. I have found some tranny's on line. Some are even close enough for me to go pick up!
Now I need a Raleigh Area shop, mechanic, and/or JDM-Type Swap enthusiast semi-pro to do the swap. Starting in Days, not Weeks!

Anyone have any suggestions or leads for someone/someshop to do the Accord Tranny swap in Central NC near Raleigh! I rebuilt an engine in HighSchool and I've always done minor repairs & maintenance myself.... if I had the space I'd do it myself, but I don't think HOA would appreciate it!

Any leads in Raleigh area??? ASAP please.
Old 12-10-2016, 10:37 PM
  #49  
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[QUOTE=mike_engr;15915046]Awesome. Thanks. I have found that diagram, but without the #10,#7,#6 descriptors! Thanks! I think it would be a great service to the community to have all of the solenoids and pressure switches identified (someday?)....

Been there done that couple times over for the 2g TL/TLS 5 & 4 speed AT. Probably at least once for the 2g CL/CLS & 3g TL/TLS AT. Maybe even once for the 1g CL AT.

Search is your friend.
Old 12-11-2016, 03:33 PM
  #50  
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Yes, did lots of searches ever since it began acting up last month.
Found diagrams like the one you cut/paste, but descriptive labels are often missing and are so valuable to us non-pros!
As you know many of the tranny sensors and solenoids look the same, only distinguished by BROWN connector versus a Black one.

In back of my mind I am wondering if some new solenoids (about $400 total for parts?) would get us some more life from this B7WA, but I recognize that a newer Tranny Swap is a better long term solution!

So, UPDATE: I found a small shop near me willing to do the swap via the 666Wokker PDF using a AV6 used tranny.. I will report the status when he's done in case others are interested. We hope to do it in the next week or so.

He's currently checking his sources for tranny. Hope to find 70k miles or less?

He told me to a new rear tranny mount, and rear seal and he'll replace those while he's in there....
We'll decide on Torque converter depending on the donor TC condition...

I'm also gonna order a new TL ATF external filter. Some DW1, if we don't use the ValvolineMaxLife ATF, and I read to get a new Tube-PassageBody Gasket.
Does that make sense? Anything else? I'm interested in hearing but my window is only a couple days.... Please reply soon if interested.
Old 12-12-2016, 11:42 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by mike_engr
He told me to a new rear tranny mount, and rear seal and he'll replace those while he's in there....
We'll decide on Torque converter depending on the donor TC condition...

I'm also gonna order a new TL ATF external filter. Some DW1, if we don't use the ValvolineMaxLife ATF, and I read to get a new Tube-PassageBody Gasket.
Does that make sense? Anything else? I'm interested in hearing but my window is only a couple days.... Please reply soon if interested.
Tranny mount should be very cheap. Now is the time for rear main if it's leaking. If it's not and you replace... hopefully it doesn't start now

Use DW1.

I have a list of everything required here Havener Garage: The Definitive 2nd Gen Acura TL AV6 Transmission Swap Guide but parts wise in a nutshell:

- Passage body gasket (25812-P7W-A01)
- Passage body o-ring (91302-P7W-A00)
- ATF warmer o-rings x 2 (19435-P8E-A01)
- New ATF filter (ATP Filter)

Good luck! If you don't get the o-rings, you're probably fine. You *will* need the gasket if you are swapping over the passage body to use your existing spin-on filter type instead of the new canister.

Last edited by SuperGreg; 12-12-2016 at 11:48 PM.
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