ob8014

Hello everyone,

I've been having an issue with my 2002 Acura TL. I had to take off the power steering belt to access the power steering pump inlet line to replace the o-ring there. After I put the belt back on, I made sure the tension was correct based on what I've read on (which I've read anywhere from the thickness of the belt to .5 inches). After a few days went by, I began having a vibrating noise between about 1500-2500 rpm. After I get up to speed, the engine will block out the noise. So, I thought it was the belt that was too tight, so I loosened it some more. After I loosened it, the noise went away. That was about a week ago. Now yesterday, I noticed the noise was back again. If I accelerate in park/neutral, the noise will become present when I let off the gas pedal.

Any help would be much appreciated! I'll answer any more questions anyone has.

Thanks!

cominfromafar

Sorry mi amigo. It seems "Ye hath been led astray".

I would surmise that you messed up the bearings (on the PS pump shaft) due to too much tension. The belt must deflect *at least* half an inch [with 22 lbs of force applied halfway between the PS and CS pulleys]. Now that's for a used belt, but i would do the same for a new belt, and after a while when I feel it needs to be tightened once broken in, i would do so.

In fact, when i did my t-belt jobs (3 jobs across two 2nd gens), i set the deflection to about 3/4 inch. I've never had an issue with harder steering due to less assist from the PS system [due to a loose belt], nor with any noises, or failed bearings.

ob8014

Damn, so I'm guessing it's a new PS pump then? And I just bought all the seals to rebuild this one... :/

cominfromafar

Post a sound clip of the noise if you can, or at least describe it a little more. You said it's a "vibrating" noise. Is it one of a "rattle", "whine", "metallic sound", "squeal", etc? Are you sure your PS fluid is clean and up to proper level? Low PS fluid will cause a metallic whine.

Remove the belt and run the engine to make sure it's not something else, like a serpentine belt auto tensioner failing coincidentally.

Diagnose further before damning it fully, including removing and inspecting the belt carefully. Spin the pulley by hand (with the belt removed) and see what it feels like, including trying to rock the pulley to see if there's clear bearing play. When you spin it by hand, the movement should be a "smooth and free glide", with no roughness or looseness (no wobble like "play" of the pulley).

You wouldn't happen to have one of these would you? Mechanic's Stethoscope Use it to listen to the pump when it's running (belt installed and engine running), as well as while testing it by hand (with the belt removed).



The shaft bearing is replaceable if i recall correctly, but if you're feeling like you don't want to, you can go the route of getting one from a junk yard. Search Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. They're fairly cheap. You'll have to clean it up regardless.

So, you're next step is to diagnose it further. Be diligent, detailed, and post your findings. If i don't answer, someone else will.

ob8014

Thanks so much! I'll try and do some more research on the problem and report back here. However, the noise isn't the one that the power steering system makes when it gets air in it. And the PS fluid is new, and full. The noise sounds like something metal is rattling, but it occurs at random times. I think it only happened during two of my drives today out of five.

cominfromafar

So you purged the air (by turning lock to lock and holding at each end for a few seconds) when you replaced the fluid? Then refilled to the proper level after as necessary? I do the lock to lock purge with the wheels in the air, but it shouldn't matter if they are one the ground, just more resistance when you turn (and a little tougher for the pump).

You said it was random, but were you turning, going down a straight road, etc?

Metallic rattle/whine occurred with me when i had disconnected the PS reservoir lines (for more room) when doing my first t-belt. A good deal of fluid had drained out, and i had forgotten to refill it. Refilling it reduced the noise drastically, but some noise was still there. Lock-to-lock purge is necessary.

ob8014

I raised it on a jack, and did the lock to lock turning and refilled the reservoir until there was no more noise and it was full. The sound occurs between 1500-2500rpm while I'm driving, it doesn't matter if it's straight or turning. I can also replicate the sound when I have the car in park by pushing and releasing the accelerator. The sound occurs when the engine decelerates, making a metal rattling/vibrating noise.

cominfromafar

Alright. Get back to us with what you find with the other stuff we discussed above.

ob8014

Will do! Give me a day or two.

ob8014

Here's a audio file I was able to take today. It wasn't as loud as it is some days, but you can hear it when I rev the engine.

ob8014

Here it is, had a problem uploading. It may be a bit loud.

cominfromafar

How far did you get with the rest of the diagnosis above? I know you said you needed some time. Did you do the isolation test (running/revving the engine) with the PS belt installed, then without it, and with again? We need to be absolutely sure it is the PS system. I know it's time consuming that you have to get the Serp belt out of the way for PS belt removal and install, but the car isn't in front of us, so we need to be sure. At least it's a plus that the PS system can be isolated .

I listened to the audio clip on my PC, but it's still a little tough to make out. It sounds "drowned out", even when i lower all bass and crank up the treble. I think i hear some bearing "rattle" failure. Maybe one of the veteran 2G magicians can chime in.

Are you recording it from the engine bay? If you can, record it once more when you have the belt back on (after the isolation test). It would be best if you start recording (in a non-enclosed area with as little ambient noise as possible) with your phone about 1 to 1.5 feet from the PS pump. Then have someone start the car, let it idle for 10 seconds, rev fast a few times (like you did in the clip above), then slowly a few times, then finally let it idle again for 10 seconds. Reason is, we need to hear the range of difference as clearly as we can.

Do that isolation test.

murky

I realize this is an old thread, but can't help but reply.

If in fact the noise is due to damaging the bearings from a tight belt (on top of just being old), then replacing the bearing takes an extra 10 minutes when you have the pump out and apart. He said he'd bought the seals.

Rebuilding the pump is not that difficult and the seal kits are cheap. The genuine Honda bearing is $15 or less. There is a Youtube video of the pump rebuild on a Honda Odyssey, which uses the same pump.