chao_zu55

Has your ignition switch been switched? I remember my car would just stall when i slow down to ... 5k/h or stop at a light...

silvernight

i changed my ignition coil and spark plugs and goin to clean my iacv and etc tomorow. should i change my ignition switch also.

silvernight

so i used the seafoam and this stuff is great it had my car up and running smooth with a lil more power but after a hour or two i shut the car off and it stalled again so i open my IACV AND INTAKE AND IT WAS SO MUCH CARBIN THAT THE POOR LIL BOTTLE OF SEAFOAM CUDNT GET IT ALL BUT I TELL U IT LEFT A BIG FOG OF SMOKE INTHE PROCESS BAK TO IACV AND INTAKE. ITS BACKED UP A LOT SO IM CLEAN IT TOMOROW WELL TODAY


THANKS FOR THE THREAD AND SEAFOAM ( WILL USE EVERY 3 MONTHS AFTER DONE )

youie99

Same problem here. Sometime when i let it sit for 30mins its fine. Usually, happens after I fill up my tank. Once am half empty, problem is gone and has just being repeating this cycle for months.

sadate

could this issue be because of bad spark plugs?

StylesT28

I've had this problem for over a year.All parts changed from acura dealer-6 Coil packs-6 spark plugs-6 fuel injectors-egr valve-iacv-fuel pressure regulator-coolant temp. sensor- i know you guys talk about "seafoam" but i did the acura alternative i dont know the name but it is the intake manifold cleaner along with the fuel injection treatment. and i also manually removed the intake manifold and cleaned all ports.after i changed the coolant temperature sensor.. it stopped for about 4 months and then came back.. changed the sensor again and NOTHING...i have no clue what it could be. and no one else can figure it out.Only thing i notice to temporarly fix this is to put the car into Drive hold the brake down and give it gas.. put a load on the torque convertor for a few seconds.. and then the hesitation goes away and once you drive away it goes back to normal..Last week i got a new CEL and i believe it was the EVAP code.. does this have to do with the evap canister under the rear drivers side passenger seat under neath the car???

akegameeesou

Well we can knock off "GUMOUT" cleaner with high octane fuel full tank. Used up only a quarter of the tank no highway driving on this tank yet. Will finish the tank this weekend on a long drive but I do not think it will work. Will keep you posted.

thewhitepearl

yes.. car needs 3 things.. fuel, air, and spark(combustion).

any error codes?

what's your gas mileage like? are you getting too good of mileage?

fabulousfab

well i ran 1 bottles of stp fuel system treatment through each full tank of gas for the last 4 tanks of gas and the stalling has stopped i dont know if there was water in the tank or what but im just happy the stalling has stopped happening! oh yah the stp was about 11.00 dollards a piece and it sure beats a 250.00 ignition swap.

fsttyms1

Did you ever bring it to the dealer to have them look at it?

With every thing you replaced it could very easily be a ECU problem.

StylesT28

Yes my friends work @ honda\acura. even their top mechanics can't figure it out.

but if it was a ECU problem, wouldn't it happen all the time?? and not just when the car has been driven for sometime and then starting up again after 15-20min??

i see a lot of people are beginning to have this same issue, and its def. not the coil's like everyone says.

JOHNFONT

I am having the same problem. Yesterday it got really hot here in Florida. My car would just stop. I mean the radio would go dead the ac would stop working the engine would die the gauges go off. I heard some clicking under the shift stick. Then my son said look dad smoke. Sure enough a wisp of smoke from the steering column. . I dismantelsed the covers on the steering column and found a hot piece (not melteed or anything on the outside)that fit onto the key mechanism shaft. This piece has soldered wires and these terminate into a plug on the drivers side wall under the dash. Is this the ignition switch I am reading about? I found a hot piece on the left side of the steering column. I found that by holding the key with pressure towards start that I could drive it home. What could be putting such a load on the switch that it would smoke. When I hold the switch between start and run I can make the engine run without engaging the starter. I did this with the actual key in the keyway and I also did it to the switch itself leaving the keyway mechanism out of the physical circuit. I did however have to leave the key in the keyway for the engine to start. Without the programable key in the keyway I would get no spark at all. Clarifying I removed the switch from the keyway shaft and and turned it with a screwdriver.

What items may be in the run circuit that may be bypassed by holding the key close enough to start to use the start circuit to run the car?

Does this sound like the starter swith it self or could something ( I have no wiring diagram anymore.) else be in the run circuit that prevents the car from starting or shuts it down at low rpm’s.

junteschan

Same exact symptoms with my 2K at one time.
I replaced the main relay wc I think controls
the fuel supply to the engine & the ignition.
This is just under the driver side dash and
is factory named Mitsuba or something.
Car runs excellent and no more rough idle and/or
engine shake.Costs around $65 from dealer.
May be worth your try.

GamPAT

This problem is starting to drive me crazy. It is happening with greater regularity now. Last night I had a smell of some electrical burning and noticed a small amount of smoke coming from my dash. I immediately pulled over but was unable to locate the source of the smoke. I made it home, but would still like to fix this problem once and for all.

junteschan

Was your car repaired already?
If so what part was replaced if any?

chao_zu55

the problem has disappeared for some reason... but... nothing has been done since the problem stopped... Hope it wont come back

SleekSilverTL

Any updates? My car is seeming to have similar problems, any help would be appreciated.

SleekSilverTL

TTT

could really use help. Thanks

junteschan

Anything you've done to it yet?

leo99

I changed my egr vale and cleaned out the throttle body... and like most fixes it was good for a while then went bad again...

junteschan

If you're willing to spend around $65 and you're willing to do it yourself, you want to replace your 7 pin main relay box located on the driver side under the steering wheel column area.

Chk in ebay how it looks like to give you an idea what you're looking for. I just replaced mine maybe less than a year ago
and currently it idles like new...

leo99

Awesome... ill check it out. thanks

GamPAT

anyone find replacing the 7-pin main relay box fixes the problem? my car has been stalling like crazy lately including while on the interstate going about 70 miles per hour.

GamPAT

http://www.internetautoguide.com/aut.../tl/index.html

apparently there was a recall on the ignition switch. has anyone had this fix with the problems resolving?

leo99

Call your nearest acura dealer and give them you vin# and they can check if your car has been serviced for that recall

Rivera_TL

I noticed that my car does somewhat of the same thing. Its been idling low lately and takes awhile to start...after it starts it starts shaking a little bit like it wants to stall but sometimes doesnt. Anybody know what to do about this?

junteschan

It was a cheap fix for my car and it worked well since.
It should be worth your try.

AznHonda

iTrader: (2)

wow..that's not safe at all

AznHonda

iTrader: (2)

This sucks my car shut down while I was turning right in the middle of the street. Did anyone found out yet what is going on with the 99 tl??

YoungGun

I'm getting really irritated too because I cannot figure out what is the deal with my car now. My car would stall after driving for a long time, now my car wont stay started, it stalls. BOOO, its been sitting in the garage for almost a month now.

AznHonda

iTrader: (2)

no more stalls..replace the main relay now is all good... I remember that I had the same problem with my old cb7

VancouverRay

Ok, so the problem got progressively worse since my March 2010 post. The symptoms are best described by akegameeesou’s post “ Starts great when cold but after the car has been running for quite some time and then is parked for 20-30 min, incline or not the car starts (cranks over normal) but bogs into a low idle and then dies. I need to keep RPMS in 1500-2100 rpm for about 10-15 sec then let off the gas and it will idle normally.” I work for land developers and drive to many sites during the course of a day (around 10 +/-) and start my car multiple times. It got to the point where the car would stall 3-6 times a day, every day. Once I could almost not get it restarted. I tried taking it into my mechanic (non Acura) and they could not diagnose it without being able to recreate it as the car went in cold. It progressed to the point where the engine lights started to come on after the car stalled out. Both the check engine and TCS. Both eventually turned off but the error codes were for misfires, most recently for all 6 cylinders. Since I needed to get my car the annual air care check by the government, and it would not pass with error codes, I had my mechanic clear the codes then took it in. The car passed. Now don’t laugh, but the stalling has not returned since I had the car air cared on the 30th of April 2011. The vehicle inspection report says “on board diagnostic system interrogated. The following monitors were not set: catalyst, oxygen sensor”. Could they have been reset and that solved the problem? I’ll keep you posted but this is a weird one. Perhaps someone with far more knowledge of these things could comment (this could be anyone)?

Ray

01tl4tl

I think that means the car told the computor it didnt have suffient info on the O2 or cat--due to reset of ecu--which cleared all codes
you have to drive a few days or hours doing various rpms, cruise, and speed up-slow downs to get good info to the system..force the front O2 sensor to do a lot of work

Its to keep people from clearing bad codes/lights and sneaking thru inspection

O2 sensor would make a lot of running problems- it has an electrical resistance spec to test or just get one based on age
have you had a muffler shop test the cat?

multi cyl misfire codes is OFTEN 1 coil going bad

saramitc1

Okay so a few interesting things have been going on with my 99 Acura Tl 3.2, and seems like there's more than one problem but who knows...

First I looked up the symptoms of my car stalling/turning off randomly at stop signs or stop lights and came up with a faulty ignition switch. I replaced it 5 days ago and it's obviously not the problem.

My issues started about 6 months ago and I hardly even realized it was an issue it happened so infrequently. Now it has progressively gotten worse and worse where I am getting scared to even drive it. Like other posts it has stalled after idling low multiple times in a row. I have never had a problem with starting it back up, it has always started right back up. It has "died" with the gages going blank while driving in traffic so it is not just stalling now when I am stopped. It has happened up to 10 times in one day. The ignition switch recall was replaced in 2002 and like I said above, 5 days ago my fiance put in a brand new one since after my research online this is what I narrowed it down to. Well low and behold it stalled out again twice this morning.

Next I have read blogs about people having their check engine light on and TCS light on... my CE is always on and my TCS comes on and off whenever it feels like it I suppose.

Also I have noticed my navigation turning off and restarting while I am driving-- just put that in there because I saw other people having wacky GPA problems so maybe it's related?

I really can't afford to be taking my car to the shop all the time for them to guess what's wrong...

It has 162k miles on it if that makes any difference and we just had new spark plugs put it because we thought that may have been the problem-

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know!!!! Thank you in advance!!

Sarah

kalick

Clean the TB let the dealer b your last option as they will officially Anal Rape you

soclean

I know this thread is really old but it seems like a common problem for everyone. I have had this for a while now and it is happening more and more everyday. It is currently at the dealer right now and has been there for almost a week trying to replicate the problem so they can try to figure out what it is. I have already changed out the throttle body, done the recall for the ignition switch and cleaned everything that can be cleaned and so far nothing helped. Hopefully the car has the stalling issue while it is at the dealer so they can figure out what is going on with it. With my luck so far it only happens when I have the car and not at the shop.

VancouverRay

Hey soclean

All I can add to this is mine turned out to be seasonal. It only happens in the late fall and winter? I just learned to live with it.

32tl00tuneacura

I haven't ever had this problem but one thing I haven't seen except for Silver metioning this. I did a Trans swap in my car, and when I did this I decided to pull my Intake Manifold off too, (The EGR system has channels that run in the intake manifold). Here is something you may want to look into, on top of the Intake manifold is a little metal plate held on by like four or six little bolts (I can't remember off hand); pull that plate of and see whether or not the whole thing is caked in carbon soot. (I guess it should be noted too that I have already replaced the fuel pump and filter, I'm running a COI, and i'm also using a Cat delete pipe with the "no fouler" O2 trick) which might I add I was certain was not going to work when I read it off A-zine... but sure enough, no codes, no stalls.

3.2TLc

Tell us more about your Cat delete and "no fouler" trick !!!

32tl00tuneacura

I can't take credit for it, Excelerate makes a cat delete pipe that has the O2 sensor fitting. So there are these things called "spark plug non fouler", I got mine from autozone. Two come in a package. I forget the size, but they make a size which is the same as the O2 sensor fitting. Take one of the two in the package and widen the hole in it with a drill so that the O2 sensor can be screwed into it. Then take that and screw it into the other plug that comes in the pack and then take all of that and screw it into the O2 sensor fitting in the cat delete. Don't ask me how it works, I'm convinced it's witch craft; but apparently the Non Fouler plugs hold the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream enough that even though there is no cat it reads the O2 level as being within tolerance. I went 6 months with out CEL. I will admit that the CEL light is on for the O2 sensor, but this is because I have a hole in the flex joint on my headers. The CEL goes away every time I patch the hole; but when my patch inevitably falls off the CEL comes back on.