AznHonda

iTrader: (2)

that's weird that everyone is having this problem..I only have this problem once of blue moon thing..

99wdptl

yea, i have had this issue off and on for about a month now about once a week, my TB is good cleaned it about a month ago when i replaced the EGR valve. Checked the plugs all good.
I dont think it has anything to do with the electrical system, the ignition fires the car right up then it dies its not struggling to turn over, Coil packs either work or they don't and the car is not missing so that not the issue.
I had a problem like this w/ my Integra a while back and it was the fuel pump, i recommend that you get your fuel Pressure checked before you try and replace it not only is the part not cheap but its a little involved the fuel filter could be clogged too and that would cause the issue
IDK i will test my FP next week and post my results, the next step is injectors and i dont even want to think about that $$$

silvernight

WTF is going on forreal im bout to sell my 00 tl because this is crazy i just changed my ignition coil because the codes said that all 6 were bad and i also changed all 6 spark plugs like three days and just today my needle went under 1rpm and started to stall again but i pressed on the gas and caught it.. then i drove away, turned it off and start it up and and it started as if nothing ever happened 30seconds ago


wats going on forreal .. im bout to sell my tl and look into the 04

silvernight

how do u check your fuel pressure ????

FuriousSam

The car started without problems in the same incline, car was resting on that spot for over two hours (guess it's enough to cool off?) Then I drove it to another incline, sat for 3 hours and no problem in starting again.

I am going to get my transmission flush this weekend, I'll ask the guy to check the fuel pressure too and post back.

99wdptl

To check your FP you have to put a testing gauge between the rail and the line there is typically a port/plug there for easy access.
I did a little search on another forum and somebody, well a few people mentioned a TSB being out for this car for "heat soak" i couldn't find anything maybe one of you will have better luck i got to go to work will post more in a few...

99wdptl

Thinking that it might be a Fuel Pressure Regulator, or a leaky vacuum hose that connects to it... cheap fix anybody try this yet?

AznHonda

iTrader: (2)

how about this..have anyone replace the map sensor?? where the TB at..becuz when I was installing the CAI and I forgot to plug in the map sensor. The car does turn on but then die.. and when I plug back the map sensor it works fine..maybe is the map sensor.. I don't know..

99wdptl

That is true but the issue there is that the map sensor is a static device it either works or it doesn't. The FPR could be getting stuck especially when there are users on here saying that after a fuel treatment the issue was resolved for a week or so then the issue starts again. i am wondering if all the vehicles experiencing this are the "California Emission" vehicles (like mine) you also have to take into consideration all the damn ethanol they put in the gas these days can really gunk stuff up....

YoungGun

Yeah, what he said ^^ How can I check that?

tunene25

there is like 4 of this thread in this forum they should make it one it seems like all of us are in the same boat the car stall!

triniMan

Same problem here. Starts up then shut off...I think it could be the fuel filter anyone knows how to change it.

AznHonda

iTrader: (2)

that's why you should live in FL..93 grade all the way!

silvernight

so did anyone find a solution yet ?????

fsttyms1

^ If you have done every thing we have suggested you should bring it in. I think that if someone had figured it out they would have posted. What we have suggested is usually the fix (if done properly)

There are things that we have mentioned that many cant do without the correct tools, or know how where its best to bring it in. To test fuel pressure you need a fuel pressure gauge. Most of these tools can be rented at auto parts stores.

DONZ3.2TL

Wow, alot of people had had this same issue, I had the same exact issue about 3 years ago and had my EGR valve replaced, it helped for about 2 and 1/2 years but i'm now experiencing the same issue now and then. It's always happens after starting and stopping the car several times in a short period of time. It starts and runs like a champ when the engine has had time to completely cool down. I'm thinking I may have to clean my EGR valve out again.

silvernight

im taking my car to Acura Dealership next week.. if anyone did a fuel pressure check or throttle body cleaning or even a iavc and it worked let me no so maybe i can save some money. good looking

fsttyms1

What we posted (and if you used the search button for stuff like IACV etc..) you would see that the things mentioned to try do work and are "USUALLY" the fix. Not always but usually. The ONLY way to know is to try them and see. If after doing the things mentioned in this thread and all the other threads with issues like this dont work, then other things need to be tried.

Did you attempt any of the things mentioned to try like Cleaning the EGR ports, Cleaning the TB, Cleaning the IACV?????? Try what we mentioned. Every thing is in the DIY page on how to do.

Have you tried Seafoaming ??????????? Try the things we mentioned to try and let us know if it worked for you!

DJEurobeat

Hey ! It is started for you my friend . I had same thing happening once in a blue moon thing, and then one day its just start happening very often .

GamPAT

so still no one with a remedy and even more with the same problem?

99wdptl

I don't live in Cali i live in VA my car is just equipped w/ the Cali emissions package (i have a ULEV green plactic engine cover vs the typical black/red 3.2 one) My issue has seemed to go into hibernation.... For now. Honestly i am not to worried about it, i have been driving the hell out of this car for school and work (about 3k miles a month) and know that it will not last much longer, i graduate in September and plan on buying a new car at that time. Plus the issue is only w/ starting the vehicle once the vehicle is started it will run fine, now if it starts to die while i am driving it that will be an issue that i will address ASAP or buy my new car early.

But for those that are interested in trying to fix it i am almost certain that the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is to blame. I have replaced my EGR valve, cleaned my TB, cleaned my IAVC valve and so on(less than 6 mounts ago for unrelated maintenance.) and i got the problem. The part is about $70 and it should take less than an hour to replace with simple tools.

fsttyms1

Did you try what was recommended?

silvernight

ohhhh wow real helpful thanks man... but what make u think its the FPR and and how do u know it will our problem??

fsttyms1

Because of the symptoms the cars are showing. The things that we have told you and others to try are the the usual things that cause it and why we mentioned to try the things mentioned and IF like stated before those cleanings dont work THEN we would have you move on to other things.

akegameeesou

Same problem here (230K on 99 TL 32.)

Starts great when cold but after the car has been running for quite some time and then is parked for 20-30 min, incline or not the car start (cranks over normal) but bogs into a low idle and then dies. I need to keep RPMS in 1500-2100 rpm for about 10-15 sec then let off the gas and it will idle normally. It will start up no problem right after at hot temperature but if I leave it again for 20-30 min , same startup idle issue. Here is what i have changed and cleaned on the car thus far but problem still occurs.
Already Done

- Clean out EGR
- Clean Out IACV
- Sea Foam
- Clean TB
- Change Water Temperatur Sensor (plug under TB just next to TB Intake)

Next To Do's

- Check Vacum hoses for leaks.
- Change Fule Pump
- Change Fuel Filter

Some thing tells me that there is a hose or a sensor somewhere that is expanded/corrupt when the car heats (when the car is hot) up throwing the computer into a hissey fit.

So many people have thrown money into this problem and it still exists. Work logically, change the cheapest parts relating to the problem and if the cost grows get rid of the car. I am currently looking into an 04-05 Acura MDX now. The TL is been reliable and I like the customer service that Acura game me when I purchased the used 99 TL years ago. Also i have spoken to many people about the MDX and nothing but positive results. Anywyas I will keep everyone posted about the next fixes.

fsttyms1

My guess might be in the TPS sensor.

shurik74

Very interesting that a lot of people have the same issue. Mine 02 TLs is giving me the same problems but only in the morning after cold night (about 30-34'F, live in CA). I didn't take my car anywhere yet, cause have some experience with wasting money. I just wait when the issue come out itself. So far, the whole winter is behind, no issues so far (knock on wood) but I know it will come again and would be nice if I fix it before I get stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Thank you everybody for your feedback and experience!!!

silvernight

you tried all this and it still didnt fix the problem wow .. im just bout to start mine by cleaning the egr , iacv, etc but if its not helping ,, its type pointless foreal .. def let us know how the fix go

fsttyms1

Its NOT pointless. Go try that stuff first.

akegameeesou

Like fsttyms1 it is never point less. Try them all (cheapest first obviously, better than paying Acura dealer to not fix the issue as many have stated in their posts.) it will take you a 2-6hr to clean if you are no mechanic like me.

The hardest part for me was the IACV located under the air intake hose. Plus the screw was stripped which lead me to believe the recent owner tried to clean it out once.

Now that I am thinking of this more, it never did this until I did a tune up. Plug change? Hmm maybe should change the plugs once more. But I doubt it? something to look into. Could be a batch of rotten plugs that passed Quality assurance test at the factory. Who knows. worth the try, what do others think?

Going to try a fuel cleaner this weekend 'Lucas' with some premium gas and run it hard on the highway.

Question : fsttyms1 What is the TPS? I am no mechanic.

fsttyms1

TPS is the Throttle position sensor. Unfortunately its not something you can buy (stores and dealers dont carry it). It requires a new TB. (it can be replaced but it takes some work with a volt/ohm meter and adjusting to make read properly once you find a working sensor that fits)
It is likely the problem for most that have tried every thing else and that none of it has helped. Like you said, it is ALWAYS recommended to start off with the easiest and cheapest things (especially those that for most it has worked) and work your way down the list

99wdptl

Yea... But if it was the TPS the issue would continue after initial start up not just die off you would have an idle issue along w/ the start up issue.

The reason i suggested the FPR is b/c if you look at the symptoms the car is showing and trace them back its kinda easy. You car needs Gas and spark to start (there are other things but i will keep this simple) well what give the vehicle spark? coil packs and plugs. Coil packs are solid state devices (they either work or they don't there is no in between) So if one of them was to go out, you would have a misfire and the CEL would come on. Well that not the issue so we take a look at the fuel system.
So what gives the car fuel, the fuel pump. If this was going out you would experience the issue more frequently not just on start up and it wouldn't just go away for a week or two it would get worse, again checking the fuel pressure is the best way to figure this out. So we think that not the issue b/c the problem we are having comes and goes and is only on start up, so what next. Fuel filter if this was clogged the issue would not go away it would stay. Clogged fuel filter=no fuel that mean your car will not run. So what next, either the FPR or the injectors. Injectors i consider a solid state device, like the coil pack they either work or they don't so lets forget about them for now. FPR, this is a mechanical device (moving parts) that is vacuum controlled that determines your FP. It seems to me that is is getting stuck and not giving the engine the proper FP. This explains why when people run fuel cleaner through their car it stops for a while, the fuel cleaner is doing its job and temporarily un-gunking the FPR and allowing it to operate properly, and its only $70.00 compared to the $100.00 ++ other solutions cost, start with the cheapest possible solution and work your way up. But that just my logic others could view it differently.

fsttyms1

Your logic is Somewhat justified and accurate but not completely. I (along with others here have seen plenty cases now where the symptoms many here were what i and others have said to Clean, I have also seen the same symptoms here be the TPS. Im not saying that its not fuel related (partly why i stated earlier to have a fuel pressure test) It very well may be that but lets start off with the Easiest things and cheapest first which are CLEANING the known issue parts like the TB, EGR ports, and running cleaner thru the fuel system. That only costs 10 bucks.

Also about the coil packs. There is a in between. MANY have coilpacks cause misfires but they continue to work.
Injectors, Same thing. They can be clogged causing them to not spray to their fullest but still spray and work but cause misfires and poor performance.

99wdptl

Thank you for the clarification i was told otherwise about the coil packs, but after further research i see you are correct, and if you read i think my second post on this thread i stated that i did clean all the mentioned parts and i am still receiving this error/malfunction, hence why i left that out and pointed to the FPR.

sadate

I bought some of that on Friday and the RPM's are still low when I start it but it hasn't stalled on me yet...I still have half a tank left from when I put it on though

fsttyms1

My post about trying other things wasnt directed at you but the others that havent tried any thing yet.

chao_zu55

is the FPR something fixable/adjusted? or does it need to be replaced?

fsttyms1

No adjustments. If it is indeed bad it needs to be replaced.

silvernight

does anyone have the Diy thread with pix for taking out the iacv ,, throttle body, tb and intake i forgot wat else to clean .... now can i use carb spray to clean all these ??

bremarie225

I am having the same problem and it is very frustrating. My car starts but idles extremely low at maybe 250-300 RPMs. After the car stays on for maybe 2-4 minutes it sputters and shuts off.
When I first noticed the problem the car would idle at around 750-850 RPMs ( which it never did) and when I would brake or put the car in park the idle would drop really fast and shake violently or just cut off completely. The problem gradually got worse and now the car just doesn't stay running at all.
I'm pretty clueless so I just took my car to the shop. He's going to run a diagnostic and find out what could be wrong with it. Before the car was brought into the shop the TB and IAVC were cleaned. If this mechanic fixes the problem, I'll update you all as to what can be done and how much it may cost to repair.