2ndgentl

Yeah so I got a CEL on with the D flashing...............Car runs fine I just reset it but what needs to be checked or replaced? I know its the Transmission gear selection switch circuit fault. I went ahead and took my console apart and cleaned everything out but, where is that sensor located?

FL3.2TL

Shitt.. If you find it, let me know. Im in the same boat.. I however have a PDF file given to me from a Azine member about the fix it for it. So, when I get home from work, I will send it to you..

2ndgentl

Thaks man, I really appreciate it.

CLBeyond

Hey I'm in the same boat too. Engine light came on and scan indicated code P1709. Please share the PDF or possible fixes with me too. Thanks

rattmann316

maybe a mod can get it stickied? sounds like a common problem

bowlgers

that just happened to me same code has to do with the tip tronic switch or shift seloniod most likley its the switch mine was do to my wife spilling a soda in the center console 3 years ago i hade to take the hole shifter out pop out the switch their are three triggers and they were stuck a little cleaner let it soak a little blew it out with air a little grease works fine happened yesterday wouldnt come out of auto stick took about a hour and a half to do but i also have done this before for a customer of mine he spilled coffee in a 03cl-s so if this sounds right i hope it helps remember if u bough your tl used it may have happened before u got it some people treat there cars like dumpsters then trade them in like leases

Gfaze

Holy run-on sentence Batman! Dude use some periods. <----Like the one I just used there and the one I'm about to use at the end of this sentence.

bowlgers

Sorry i was on my phone,not the best texter.big greasy thumbs

juanclopez2786

iTrader: (3)

heres the diagnostic procedure
1.Turn the ignition switch OFF.

2.Remove the center console.

3.Disconnect the transmission gear selection switch connector.

4.Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

5.Measure the voltage between the No. 8 terminal of the transmission gear selection switch connector and body ground.



Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal E20 and the transmission gear selection switch connector.

6. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 and No. 8 terminal of the transmission gear selection switch connector.



Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 2 terminal of the transmission gear selection switch connector and ground, and repair poor ground (G401).

7.Turn the ignition switch OFF.

8.Disconnect PCM connector E (20P).

9.Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal E18 and body ground, and between E19 and body ground.

Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminals E18, E19 and the transmission gear selection switch connector.n

NO - Go to step 10.

10. Measure the resistance between the No. 8 and No. 2 terminals of the transmission gear selection switch connector with the shift lever in the sequential sportshift mode position and when releasing it from the sequential sportshift mode position.



Is the resistance 0W in the sequential sportshift mode position, and 10 MW or more when out of the sequential sportshift mode position? YES - Go to step 11.

NO - Faulty transmission gear selection switch. Replace the shift lever detent bracket assembly.

11.Shift the shift lever into the sequential sportshift mode position.

12.Measure the resistance between the No. 6 and No. 2 terminals of the transmission gear selection switch connector while pushing the shift lever toward the ''+'' mark on the A/T gear position indicator panel; then measure the resistance in neutral position.

Measure the resistance between the No. 7 and No. 2 terminals while pulling the shift lever toward the ''-'' mark; then measure the resistance in neutral position.



Is the resistance 0 W with the shift lever pushing toward the ''+''mark, and pulling toward the ''-'' mark, and 10 M W or more with it released? YES - Check for loose terminal fit in the PCM connectors E18, E19 and E20. If necessary, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck.n

NO - Faulty transmission gear selection switch. Replace the shift lever detent bracket assembly.

tjackson585

okay, there are alot of conversations about the transmission range switch/neutral safety switch butonethingthat's confusing me and probably others, where is the switch located on the center console? can someone please help me out here.???

hfuhruhurr

I got the P1709 code triggered when exiting out of sportshift mode. My D5 light started flashing and my TCS and CEL illuminated. As a result, sportshift mode no longer worked and, when driving in D5, the car wouldn't shift out of 2nd gear. All other gears worked just fine so I used D4 for a day or two. Sometimes the TCS would spontaneously go out and occasionally the D5 light would no longer flash. Finding this thread, and noting a similar history of pop spillage noted by bowlgers, I thoroughly cleaned all the electric contacts in the shifter area. It was nasty with gummed up pop but everything works beautifully now. I should note that I first followed the service manual troubleshooting posted by juanclopez2786 and I failed out at Step 10: I did not get 10+ megaohm resistance between pin 2 and 8 which out of sportshift mode. I note this because it says the fix is to replace the shift lever detent bracket assembly. I didn't do that. My fix was a thorough cleaning.

I won't detail what's easy to find elsewhere but the following should fill the gaps specific to this problem for the intrepid DIYer. Here's what I did:

1. Remove the center console and remove the shifter trim pieces to expose a bare shifter assembly.
   
   Bare shifter assembly.
   
2. Move the vents on the sides of the shifter out of the way. I did this by removing the two bolts connecting the vent support to the car towards the engine. They are obvious. Once these are removed the vents could be lifted over the center console frame support to allow access to the electric connectors on the left side. The vents will still be attached by something deeper towards the engine so you're not removing them, just shooing them aside.
3. Disconnect all the electrical connectors.
4. Unhook the shift cable by removing the BLUE nut and sliding the shift cable eyelet off of the bolt. I did this in PARK. It seemed the easiest way to do it as that gives you best access to that nut.
5. At this point the shift cable is still connected to the shifter assembly by a golf ball-sized rubber grommet thingy, not pictured but obvious if you follow the shift cable towards the engine. Rotate this 1/4 turn counterclockwise and slide it out to the right.
6. Unfasten the entire shifter assembly by removing the 4 bolts securing it to the car. BE CAREFUL! There are two sets of 4 bolts, both of which look promising. The 4 you need to remove are the GREEN ones. The lower (in the picture) two aren't visible in the picture but they're there in your car. DO NOT REMOVE THE RED ONES. The red ones help connect the two halves of the assembly together. If you remove these bolts their nut will drop away and you won't be able to refasten it without removing the whole assembly.
7. Remove the assembly by lifting it up and out.
8. Clean like mad.

I used two products: CRC QD Contact Cleaner and Method All-Purpose naturally derived surface cleaner. It's orange and says it's cuts grease and grime. It also cuts sticky pop like nobody's business. I sprayed everything with both. I started with the all-purpose orange stuff and finished with the contact cleaner. Everything means everything...inside both ends of the connectors, the wires, the plastic assembly, everything.

With the whole assembly removed, I was able to take it inside and give it a silly amount of spray cleaning and compressed air blowing. I wanted to separate the two halves of the assembly for thoroughness but didn't have enough courage. When I removed the 4 red bolts the two halves didn't separate fully. I tried prying them apart, thinking there was a clip or some other pryable fastener but I wasn't willing to give it much pressure. There are at least 3 springs inside there that I know of and I didn't want to not be able to put them back properly.

After reassembly, I took a test drive. SUCCESS!!! No more flashing D5. No more illuminated TCS. Sportshift mode works. And after I cleared the P1709 code, the CEL did not illuminate again.

One more thing that may add value: prior to the D5 flashing + TCS + CEL, when I would exit sportshift mode and drive in D5, the gear # would remain illuminated. Sometimes that number would go out randomly, other times it stayed on until I turned the car off. But if I never entered sportshift mode at all, no gear # would ever illuminate (as expected). Post cleaning, once I leave sportshift mode, the gear # disappears like it should.