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Figure I would just start a thread about and see what I find out.
Plan is to build a J37 using the J35a3 motor.
Here is what is I was going to do:
port the heads/IM/headers
08 TL-S cams(or Bisi cams, if someone can offer advice on the Stage 1/1.2/2 cams?)
08 TL-S valve springs
2013 MDX Crank, Rods, Pistons, Bearings
90mm Mustang Throttle Body
bore block to 90mm
About the bearings, the acura parts website I was on listed several different ones(different colours) and I wasn't sure how that all works. Can someone confirm EXACTLY how many/what colour bearings I should get, please?
fsttyms suggested I contact KMS about getting a block guard for the cylinders. Waiting to hear back from them about that.
Bearings are by color. You need the block and crank and rods to know what bearings to choose. On the block crank and rods there are Letters and numbers stamped on them. Honda/Acura has a chart that you cross reference the number/letter from the block/crank or crank/rod to find the color bearing you are supposed to use (its also a good idea to plastigauge them to double check that they are within range.
These arent for the Jseries specifically but you get the idea
No. They wont be able to tell you. You have to order the crank and rods FIRST. Once you get them you can cross reference the crank and block codes, and the crank and rod codes. THEN you have to go back to the acura dealer and order the required bearings. The dealer wont know the codes on any of the parts till they arrive. They also dont know the codes on the block as every block is different.
Sucks, because I have to order the parts from the US, pick them up and then order more again, and pick them up.
Oh well, part of the modding process, I guess.
Was also considering pickup up a used '13 MDX engine, it has 57k on it for $2500.
Thought that would be a bit of a waste though, because of all the parts I wouldn't be using from it.
Haven't priced out the crank/rods/pistons prices yet, but, I think it may actually be almost near that as well, IIRC.
IF I went with the used engine, would you still recommend changing the bearings/piston rings as well? Of course, with everything else looking like it's in good shape.
I did a quick price search for crank/rods/pistons out of a 09' MDX & your looking at $1200 US without shipping. That doesn't include main bearings or piston rings.
There's a 09' MDX motor with 185K KM for $1800 at Carcone's Auto Recycling in Aurora.
I did a quick price search for crank/rods/pistons out of a 09' MDX & your looking at $1200 US without shipping. That doesn't include main bearings or piston rings.
There's a 09' MDX motor with 185K KM for $1800 at Carcone's Auto Recycling in Aurora.
REALLY appreciate the research info, thank you.
Which site did you get that price quote from? Sounds like it may be cheaper than what I found from a US Acura parts site.
That mileage sounds high, I definitely don't want to pay the $2500 for the one that has 57k on it, and even with the exchange, $1200 is a good price.
Rings/bearings, from what I found weren't overly pricey, and if you found a site that has them cheaper, then .
Sucks, because I have to order the parts from the US, pick them up and then order more again, and pick them up.
Oh well, part of the modding process, I guess.
Was also considering pickup up a used '13 MDX engine, it has 57k on it for $2500.
Thought that would be a bit of a waste though, because of all the parts I wouldn't be using from it.
Haven't priced out the crank/rods/pistons prices yet, but, I think it may actually be almost near that as well, IIRC.
IF I went with the used engine, would you still recommend changing the bearings/piston rings as well? Of course, with everything else looking like it's in good shape.
Yea, its a drawn out process but its the only way.
A used engine if you can get it for a really good price would work, BUT you would still need new crank to block bearings (they wouldnt match the color code on your existing block), depending on rod bearing conditions you may need those, and you would need new rings.
Also when you have your block machined make sure they DONT cross hatch the cyl walls. The 3.7 rings need a smooth bore.
The 'J37 Full Valvetrain' thread.....those heads can't be used on the J35a3, I assume?
Yeah, I figured I would have to replace the bearings/rings on a used engine, so, might as well buy new parts, and buy them cheaper.
You wouldnt want those heads anyway. Our heads are more efficient and better. Though im not sure there is any upper head difference between the 2 that would restrict the valvetrain from bolting up like those?
Robert(yungone) had posted a reply in that thread and actually said those heads are great, but there is an issue with having to plug an oil hole.
I certainly respect both of your knowledge, so, any chance of a consensus on which heads are actually better for the J37 build? I also may have not fully understand the technical stuff about the performance differences between the J35 and the J37 heads, so, please forgive my ignorance.
I was also curious, if using the J37 heads, those wouldn't need to be ported, would they, since the are already from a J37?
Robert(yungone) had posted a reply in that thread and actually said those heads are great, but there is an issue with having to plug an oil hole.
I certainly respect both of your knowledge, so, any chance of a consensus on which heads are actually better for the J37 build? I also may have not fully understand the technical stuff about the performance differences between the J35 and the J37 heads, so, please forgive my ignorance.
I was also curious, if using the J37 heads, those wouldn't need to be ported, would they, since the are already from a J37?
The heads are great compared to the J35a4 and up, especially on the larger intake port openings, But They all have the cast manifolds and compared to the J32A2/35A3 which have individual exhaust port openings, they cant flow as well as. The non cast exhaust manifolds are better exhaust wise and have better chance for more power/tunability with different style headers. Also IMHO they are also better for turbos. It seems as though the cast manifolds are more susceptible to detonation with those manifolds and boost.
And to answer your question about porting them. Just because they are 3.7 doesnt mean they dont need to be ported. Opening them up, smoothing transitions and castings out will help. Not to mention by doing so gives you the opportunity to gasket match for the best flow. The Jseries heads have been shown to flow at less than 500 lift as much or more than SB chevy heads that have had work done to them and more than 500 lift. Allowing them to flow only helps. These motors LOVE air.
Ok, thanks, Kris. The more I am learning about the J37 heads, it seems as though they are a bit more of a headache to deal with because of their design be well.
I am pretty sure my goal of 300whp will be attained using either heads. it's just a matter of how much work will be required to achieve it.
i agree you want the older heads and get those ported or gasket matched. How are you fitting a 90mm TB on? Are you going to add material to the manifold neck then enlarge the opening?
Also are you going to tune this thing? if so with what? You are staying auto right?
The only thing I remember about bisi cams is that they might not be properly heat treated and could be prone to early failure because of that. I think some J series cams will get you the power you want.
isn't the neck opening on the J37 larger than the J35? downside is the J37 is hard to port.
What's the budget on this build? If you can get some long tube headers made....but that's big $. I always thought we could use one of the TL long tube J pipes that ends in 3" and have a shop fabricate the primaries (heads to Jpipe).
Yes, I think the J37 has some design differences that would make it challenging.
I am just going to save myself the headache, and let the porting work (hopefully) do what it will to reach my goal.
So, sticking with the J35 intake manifold, and going along with the rest of the J37 parts I mentioned.
The J37 IM/heads would be an interesting route to take to see what the potential of it would be for my build, but, there are too many other requirements that would be a bit problematic to sort out....and problematic means more $$$.
The budget, well, there isn't a firm budget, but it is less than it would be to get the J37 IM/heads to run optimally.....since I am going with a shop to do the work.
04-30-2016, 01:57 PM
Time to crunch some numbers.
