Rear Axels, Control Arms, Bushings, and Ball Joints
#1
Rear Axels, Control Arms, Bushings, and Ball Joints
My 2006 RL just hit 210k miles. Well I have been getting some vibrations and high way shimmy lately, got tires balanced and problem is still there. Checked my front end and my axel was leaking grease along with a bad tie rod and some cracking bushings. So I decided to replace a lot of the front suspension and both axels (new upper and lower control arms, and outer tie rods). Rack and pinion and coilovers were done about a year ago, so not doing those.
So that got me thinkin about giving the rear some love too. I ordered aftermarket parts last night for the front, I cannot find any parts other than oem for the rears. And I cannot find any rear axels other than used.
So my questions are, can the upper rear ball joints and knuckle ball joints be pressed and replaced? Or do I have to buy a control arm and knuckle just for 2 damn ball joints? If there was aftermarket I wouldn't be complaining, but the oem ones are very pricey.
I guess I'm looking for advice on what to do with my rear suspension. Will I just have to man up and pay for dealer parts? Or should I just do the fronts and not worry about the rears?
Also for rear axels, I am assuming I can just get those rebuilt correct? There is a local shop here that rebuilds axels and are very reputable.
So that got me thinkin about giving the rear some love too. I ordered aftermarket parts last night for the front, I cannot find any parts other than oem for the rears. And I cannot find any rear axels other than used.
So my questions are, can the upper rear ball joints and knuckle ball joints be pressed and replaced? Or do I have to buy a control arm and knuckle just for 2 damn ball joints? If there was aftermarket I wouldn't be complaining, but the oem ones are very pricey.
I guess I'm looking for advice on what to do with my rear suspension. Will I just have to man up and pay for dealer parts? Or should I just do the fronts and not worry about the rears?
Also for rear axels, I am assuming I can just get those rebuilt correct? There is a local shop here that rebuilds axels and are very reputable.
#2
Rear axels should be okay, since the rear wheels doesn't turn. it very rear to see rear axels on a rear wheel drive car going bad. unless big power is being applied.
good luck with your project.
good luck with your project.
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#3
That's kind of what I figured since I couldn't find any info on them. Im thinking worst case scenario, since i have such high miles. I guess I'll have to wait and see what my mechanic says about the rear suspension, once he checks it out.
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RL_Coastin (10-15-2016)
#7
Balljoints and bushing were shot. Bushings are supposed to be centered, one was even broken off. Goodnews: got everything replaced, no more squeaking or strange noises, ride feels more solid. Mechanic said everything in the rear looks good. Bad news: still have the same vibrations/shimmy from 65-80 mph. I am going to rotate the front wheels to the rear and see if that helps. Got alignment checked, was told it is dead on. Wheels are hub centric and balanced, no spacers. Any other suggestions? Would being lowered on coilovers cause these vibrations? I am considering having my old oem axles rebuilt and swapping them in.
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RL_Coastin (10-19-2016)
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RL_Coastin (10-19-2016)
#10
I ran my hand around my tires and they do not feel choppy. Now that you mention it, the car does pull to the right, which I would assume means my tires are worn uneven. Alignment was just checked today and they said it was dead on. And the tire shop didn't mention my wheels being bent when I got them balanced, they said they all balanced fine. I am going to rotate my tires and go from there, also going to get a second opinion to see if my tires or wheels are bad. Thanks for the help everyone.
#11
Did you buy oem lca's or get dorman or beck/arnley? Just curious as dealer told me at 112,000 miles my right lower ball joint seemed slightly loose. Also beck/arnley are half the price of dorman so wondering if you got those and they seemed on par. Thanks!
#12
Yes I went aftermarket on everything. I wanted beck and arnely upper control arms but could only get Dorman at the time of ordering, only my lowers are beck. I did some research and I found a lot of people preferred beck over dorman. My mechanic said he had no issues with the parts.
#13
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iTrader: (1)
I ran my hand around my tires and they do not feel choppy. Now that you mention it, the car does pull to the right, which I would assume means my tires are worn uneven. Alignment was just checked today and they said it was dead on. And the tire shop didn't mention my wheels being bent when I got them balanced, they said they all balanced fine. I am going to rotate my tires and go from there, also going to get a second opinion to see if my tires or wheels are bad. Thanks for the help everyone.
#14
Yes I have been paying more attention whenever I drive the car and I can feel it slightly at lower speeds as well. Its a side to side shimmy in the steering wheel. Thanks for pointing that out though, they may have just balanced them without paying attention to anything else. I am going to rotate my tires tonight and see if that changes anything. The shop that I bought my wheels at can road force balance them and check for bents or round out, ill be doing that next.
#15
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iTrader: (1)
Mine does the same shimmy, drive me nuts.
Shop you took it to is bush league. You can tell if a rim is bent just by looking at it spin on the machine, I saw it first hand and was like..
Shop you took it to is bush league. You can tell if a rim is bent just by looking at it spin on the machine, I saw it first hand and was like..
#16
Yea basically, I would not go back there, they couldn't even put my lug nuts on in a star pattern. Well I rotated my tires, back to front and fronts crossed to the opposite rear corners. Vibrations are less noticeable at lower speeds, but worse at high speeds, can feel it more through the pedals now. Still have a pull to the right though. Drives me nuts too! Scheduling an appointment to get my wheels/tires checked at a reputable shop.
#17
Just got wheels road force balanced, shop said they had high road force probably from hitting potholes and such. The tires were affected, no bent wheels. They got them as good as they could, but vibrations are still the same. Just gonna live with it, I think that it's safe to assume 20x10 wheels and slammed on coils is probably the culprit.