Control upper arm + shocks, struts question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Control upper arm + shocks, struts question
I was hoping I can get more information from you guys, as my searching gave me only some partial info:
1. When airbag recall was handled, I was advised to keep an eye on left upper control arm. Wanted to replace it and I am looking for a good after-market part that you can recommend, or do you advise I stick with Acura genuine OEM part on this?
2. When I was fixing nail in a tire, mechanic told me how he can see that tires are slightly beginning to wear more on the inside vs outside, and that I should look into checking shocks and struts. He was not sure whether front and rear was needed, or tires were affected by one side, then rotated around ... I tried testing front and rear, and there is no really bouncing effect, but I noticed rear was "bouncing" more
in comparison to front. Front was spot on no bouncing... Rear was not really bouncing, but it appeard more loose than front - what do you recommend after-market parts, KYB, Monroe, or something else... Or I should stick with OEM as well? I am thinking of taking care of rear first to see if there is improvement. Also, I am about a year away from getting new set of tires...
thanks all in advance!!!!
1. When airbag recall was handled, I was advised to keep an eye on left upper control arm. Wanted to replace it and I am looking for a good after-market part that you can recommend, or do you advise I stick with Acura genuine OEM part on this?
2. When I was fixing nail in a tire, mechanic told me how he can see that tires are slightly beginning to wear more on the inside vs outside, and that I should look into checking shocks and struts. He was not sure whether front and rear was needed, or tires were affected by one side, then rotated around ... I tried testing front and rear, and there is no really bouncing effect, but I noticed rear was "bouncing" more
in comparison to front. Front was spot on no bouncing... Rear was not really bouncing, but it appeard more loose than front - what do you recommend after-market parts, KYB, Monroe, or something else... Or I should stick with OEM as well? I am thinking of taking care of rear first to see if there is improvement. Also, I am about a year away from getting new set of tires...
thanks all in advance!!!!
#2
Senior Moderator
1. OEM.
2. Did you do an alignment? That should show you why you have inner tire wear .
Do it, report back, and we can tell you if you really need new shocks
2. Did you do an alignment? That should show you why you have inner tire wear .
Do it, report back, and we can tell you if you really need new shocks
#3
Senior Moderator
KYB is your only option for aftermarket struts, and they are most likely crap. How many miles/years do you have on those struts? Anything over 100k absolutely would mean new ones would improve your ride quality. I don't have good indicator for time, but time will break them down too.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1. OEM it is .... from what I found so far, it looks like I can replace only one side when it comes to control arm, upper left - which I need... do you recommend doing the pair (or all four: control arms, upper and lower, both sides front?)
2. I did not do an alignment, but I figure if anything was replaced I would have to do one... I will have my mechanic look at the issue and tell me what exactly he thinks - the other guy saying that tires are wearing off on the inside may have been trying to talk me into getting it done at his shop, as he was marketing himself a bit during the tire / nail work
I will report what I find out.
2. I did not do an alignment, but I figure if anything was replaced I would have to do one... I will have my mechanic look at the issue and tell me what exactly he thinks - the other guy saying that tires are wearing off on the inside may have been trying to talk me into getting it done at his shop, as he was marketing himself a bit during the tire / nail work
I will report what I find out.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
rather the control arm itself, its most likely the rubber bushings that are failing. control arms are a big chunk of metal and the only way they go bad is if in accident and that big chunk of metal gets bent.
so, MOST likely, if one rubber bushing is bad...all of them will be. but alas, we're on the internet and cant inspect things from here. Have both Left and right checked!!
the rubber bushings are probably what is causing the play in suspension, allowing the alignment to deviate, which caused the tire wear
so, MOST likely, if one rubber bushing is bad...all of them will be. but alas, we're on the internet and cant inspect things from here. Have both Left and right checked!!
the rubber bushings are probably what is causing the play in suspension, allowing the alignment to deviate, which caused the tire wear
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Quick update: just came back from my mechanic, and ... Well, let's start from the beginning:
- A must: Replacement of both front lower control arms (upper control arms are in good shape)
- Recommended: Replacement of both front struts (advised labor will be cheaper if it's a quick strut kit)
- Recommended: Replacement of both rear shocks
- Recommended: Camber kit (front and rear) for alignment due to slight inner tire thread wear
All in all, I am checking OEM pricing, but my gut feeling is it will cost more than half of what my car is worth (have 140k on it)
Also, I am checking Moog and Monroe brands for these parts to compare in pricing...
All in all, looks like I should strap firmly for a ride, it'll not be cheap :/
- A must: Replacement of both front lower control arms (upper control arms are in good shape)
- Recommended: Replacement of both front struts (advised labor will be cheaper if it's a quick strut kit)
- Recommended: Replacement of both rear shocks
- Recommended: Camber kit (front and rear) for alignment due to slight inner tire thread wear
All in all, I am checking OEM pricing, but my gut feeling is it will cost more than half of what my car is worth (have 140k on it)
Also, I am checking Moog and Monroe brands for these parts to compare in pricing...
All in all, looks like I should strap firmly for a ride, it'll not be cheap :/
#7
Senior Moderator
I have no doubt you need new struts due simply to age. To justn's point, we cannot diagnose the need for control arms over the Internet. However, there is no camber kit for the RL. Either they are simply unaware of that due to its need and availability on other cars, or their diagnosis is suspect. If all of your parts are performing properly, an alignment is all you need for the RL.
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justnspace (09-01-2016)
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Quick update: just came back from my mechanic, and ... Well, let's start from the beginning:
- A must: Replacement of both front lower control arms (upper control arms are in good shape)
- Recommended: Replacement of both front struts (advised labor will be cheaper if it's a quick strut kit)
- Recommended: Replacement of both rear shocks
- Recommended: Camber kit (front and rear) for alignment due to slight inner tire thread wear
All in all, I am checking OEM pricing, but my gut feeling is it will cost more than half of what my car is worth (have 140k on it)
Also, I am checking Moog and Monroe brands for these parts to compare in pricing...
All in all, looks like I should strap firmly for a ride, it'll not be cheap :/
- A must: Replacement of both front lower control arms (upper control arms are in good shape)
- Recommended: Replacement of both front struts (advised labor will be cheaper if it's a quick strut kit)
- Recommended: Replacement of both rear shocks
- Recommended: Camber kit (front and rear) for alignment due to slight inner tire thread wear
All in all, I am checking OEM pricing, but my gut feeling is it will cost more than half of what my car is worth (have 140k on it)
Also, I am checking Moog and Monroe brands for these parts to compare in pricing...
All in all, looks like I should strap firmly for a ride, it'll not be cheap :/
and yes, replace all four shocks. ( I believe that's the correct term for them, I seem to remember 007spy and I debating over the term shock vs strut.)
and spy is correct, if you correct the issues, you wont need a camber kit.
have an alignment done and make sure its spec'd back to stock
#9
Senior Moderator
Honda calls the front struts and the rear shocks (or vice versa) for some reason. Maybe because the rear springs are not coilovers?
Either way, they are shock absorbers/dampeners. I use the term interchangeably. Just replace all 4. Your two options are OEM and KYB. OEM will have options for ASpec or stock with both around the same price. If you get the ASpec, it will come with lowering springs which will increase the suspension stiffness. If you go KYB, they will run you half of OEM cost, but don't be surprised if they crap out in a year or two.
Either way, they are shock absorbers/dampeners. I use the term interchangeably. Just replace all 4. Your two options are OEM and KYB. OEM will have options for ASpec or stock with both around the same price. If you get the ASpec, it will come with lowering springs which will increase the suspension stiffness. If you go KYB, they will run you half of OEM cost, but don't be surprised if they crap out in a year or two.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hear ya...
if the mechanic punches out the rubber bushings (i forgot what they are called at the moment) and installs new ones, it'll be cheaper than replacing the WHOLE lower control arm. I doubt the LCA (Lower control arm) is bent. unless of course, you did get into a front end accident( not accusing you)
and yes, replace all four shocks. ( I believe that's the correct term for them, I seem to remember 007spy and I debating over the term shock vs strut.)
and spy is correct, if you correct the issues, you wont need a camber kit.
have an alignment done and make sure its spec'd back to stock
and yes, replace all four shocks. ( I believe that's the correct term for them, I seem to remember 007spy and I debating over the term shock vs strut.)
and spy is correct, if you correct the issues, you wont need a camber kit.
have an alignment done and make sure its spec'd back to stock
I'd rather replace bushings then the whole control arm, as I was not in the accident and it is definitely not bent
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^it's called a "Front Compliance Bushing"
the old one will need to be pressed out. and the new one will need to be pressed back in.
I believe they are $8-15. fairly cheap, but of course your mechanic needs the proper tools to do this.
if not, then you'll just have to buy the whole LCA
the old one will need to be pressed out. and the new one will need to be pressed back in.
I believe they are $8-15. fairly cheap, but of course your mechanic needs the proper tools to do this.
if not, then you'll just have to buy the whole LCA
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#17
Senior Moderator
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Went with after-market parts (shocks / struts KYB, Lower Control Arms Beck & Arnley, and some Moog pieces like sway bar links etc..)
#20
How is the difference in ride quality going aftermarket on the shocks/struts? I bought a Gabriel rear shock because it was only $12 on amazon by mistake. Wondering if it's even worth it to buy the rest and install them. I'd rather get another 100K out of oem than a year or 2 out of Gabriel brand if they are indeed crap.
Last edited by grappler171; 01-04-2017 at 12:29 PM. Reason: Wanted to add rather than post again
#21
Senior Moderator
How is the difference in ride quality going aftermarket on the shocks/struts? I bought a Gabriel rear shock because it was only $12 on amazon by mistake. Wondering if it's even worth it to buy the rest and install them. I'd rather get another 100K out of oem than a year or 2 out of Gabriel brand if they are indeed crap.
you get what you pay for sir..
#22
Well like I said it was mistakenly priced that way, normally they are priced like KYB shocks, but the left was priced at like $12.79 or something so I figured what the hell and bought it. Soon as it shipped the next day the price was fixed by amazon lol. I stole it more or less, but it still might not be worth the time to install. I'm guessing it's about as good as KYB, just wondering how anyone who have used the KYB shocks/struts feel about them.
#23
Senior Moderator
A handful of people have used KYB. I think you can expect OEM feel, and coming from old struts you will see an improvement like OEM. However, their durability or reliability is questionable, and the RL is a heavy pig. One member reported blown KYB in less than a year.
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grappler171 (01-04-2017)
#24
Ok, I'm at 130k miles and I have an extensive service history from the dealership and no suspension work was done. They seem fine except on the harshest bumps I really feel it, but it's tight and no leaking. I'm thinking eBay the one Gabriel shock I have and install oem in spring. Ty
#25
Senior Moderator
Springs never wear out. If you have a harsh ride, you need new struts. Monroe recommends new struts every 50k. I recommend 100k max.
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