RDX pin out Amplifier/ELS module wire diagram
11-13-2015, 07:04 PM
#1
The Original Shawdy
Thread Starter
RDX pin out Amplifier/ELS module wire diagram
Like the title sates:
This is a shot in the dark but I am looking for the pin out diagram for the factory amplifier or ELS module. If you know where I can find it or can post it in here that would be great! Also helpful for others if they are interested in upgrading their amplifier to an aftermarket one.
Thanks in advance!
This is a shot in the dark but I am looking for the pin out diagram for the factory amplifier or ELS module. If you know where I can find it or can post it in here that would be great! Also helpful for others if they are interested in upgrading their amplifier to an aftermarket one.
Thanks in advance!
11-20-2015, 04:42 PM
#2
The Original Shawdy
Thread Starter
Nothing? Damn.
08-13-2016, 01:41 PM
#4
The Original Shawdy
Thread Starter
i actually did get the pin out. Unfortunately it did not fix my issue. Installed a aftermarket sub and amp in my wife's RDX. When you start the car everything works properly. But, as soon as you start driving, the sub hits 4 random times no matter the volume. It's a brand new sub, I've swapped amps between my new one and my old one and the problem still persists. I've upgrade from Pac SNI converter to Audio Control LC2i. Spoke with Car Toys and the my recommend disconnecting the noise cancellation speaker in the rear roof but that didn't fix it either. I am stumped.
09-02-2016, 11:51 AM
#5
perhaps i could help, i succeeded in my aftermarket amp and sub change. I ordered a kicker shallow mount 8" sub for the factory spot, and added an aftermarket amp under my trunk carpet beside the spare tire.
I bought a scosche loc2sl line out converter for ten dollars at wallmart and tapped that into the factory sub speaker wires directly before the subwoofer. The loc2sl has a remote wire that gets the signal from the factory sub speakers omitting the need to run a remote wire from the front of the car. Run a power cable 8 guage from the battery with a big fuse to the aftermarket amp for power. An 8 guage ground wire from the aftermarket amp to the ground bolt just forward of the factory sub location, and RCA cable from the loc2sl to the aftermarket amp and your set.
My sound rocks. What a difference compared to stock sub set-up.
I also unplugged the noise cancellation unit from under the center council and have not yet notices a difference in cabin noise.
Good luck y'all
I bought a scosche loc2sl line out converter for ten dollars at wallmart and tapped that into the factory sub speaker wires directly before the subwoofer. The loc2sl has a remote wire that gets the signal from the factory sub speakers omitting the need to run a remote wire from the front of the car. Run a power cable 8 guage from the battery with a big fuse to the aftermarket amp for power. An 8 guage ground wire from the aftermarket amp to the ground bolt just forward of the factory sub location, and RCA cable from the loc2sl to the aftermarket amp and your set.
My sound rocks. What a difference compared to stock sub set-up.
I also unplugged the noise cancellation unit from under the center council and have not yet notices a difference in cabin noise.
Good luck y'all
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DUCRDX (06-25-2019)
02-22-2017, 09:22 AM
#6
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perhaps i could help, i succeeded in my aftermarket amp and sub change. I ordered a kicker shallow mount 8" sub for the factory spot, and added an aftermarket amp under my trunk carpet beside the spare tire.
I bought a scosche loc2sl line out converter for ten dollars at wallmart and tapped that into the factory sub speaker wires directly before the subwoofer. The loc2sl has a remote wire that gets the signal from the factory sub speakers omitting the need to run a remote wire from the front of the car. Run a power cable 8 guage from the battery with a big fuse to the aftermarket amp for power. An 8 guage ground wire from the aftermarket amp to the ground bolt just forward of the factory sub location, and RCA cable from the loc2sl to the aftermarket amp and your set.
My sound rocks. What a difference compared to stock sub set-up.
I also unplugged the noise cancellation unit from under the center council and have not yet notices a difference in cabin noise.
Good luck y'all
I bought a scosche loc2sl line out converter for ten dollars at wallmart and tapped that into the factory sub speaker wires directly before the subwoofer. The loc2sl has a remote wire that gets the signal from the factory sub speakers omitting the need to run a remote wire from the front of the car. Run a power cable 8 guage from the battery with a big fuse to the aftermarket amp for power. An 8 guage ground wire from the aftermarket amp to the ground bolt just forward of the factory sub location, and RCA cable from the loc2sl to the aftermarket amp and your set.
My sound rocks. What a difference compared to stock sub set-up.
I also unplugged the noise cancellation unit from under the center council and have not yet notices a difference in cabin noise.
Good luck y'all
02-22-2017, 10:23 AM
#7
The Original Shawdy
Thread Starter
I tried that and still had the random tones during start up. I have the LC2i, JL W6v3 12" and JL 600/1v2. It's stupid loud when needed. I also have a bass nob which seems to lower the start tones when down and vice versa when up. My sub is connected the same way so I'm lost on what the cause is. I've swapped amps and no fix, swap subs and it was the same.
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07-22-2018, 09:55 PM
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I witnessed a similar behavior and thought I had it hooked up the same way too but there may be a small discrepancy that is causing the issue.
If you have a multimeter, put it in continuity mode (ohm symbol and it makes a chirp when there is a connection). Try “ohm’ing out” your positive and negative wires at the line out conveter; you may find that there is a connection between your + and - wires causing the sub to fire when it shouldn’t but also when it should. You may need to rethink the wires you are tapping into for your line-out converter.
Did you get the wires directly behind the sub (removed the housing behind the back panel)? There are some that appear to be the sub without removing the sub but I think they are problematic.
This is only my working theory now but if I have time I’ll re-do my line out wires to directly at the sub and see if it fixes it; I have issues now with + and - continuity causing a similar issue and I am hesitant to say I have a bad LoC. I’ll report back after I make the change.
If you have a multimeter, put it in continuity mode (ohm symbol and it makes a chirp when there is a connection). Try “ohm’ing out” your positive and negative wires at the line out conveter; you may find that there is a connection between your + and - wires causing the sub to fire when it shouldn’t but also when it should. You may need to rethink the wires you are tapping into for your line-out converter.
Did you get the wires directly behind the sub (removed the housing behind the back panel)? There are some that appear to be the sub without removing the sub but I think they are problematic.
This is only my working theory now but if I have time I’ll re-do my line out wires to directly at the sub and see if it fixes it; I have issues now with + and - continuity causing a similar issue and I am hesitant to say I have a bad LoC. I’ll report back after I make the change.
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