code P1457 Leak in EVAP system
07-12-2011, 04:52 AM
#1
code P1457 Leak in EVAP system
guys i would appreciate any insight per the above.
I have my check engine light on and ran a scan tool that reported code P1457 Leak in EVAP system. i was going to do a diagnostic but talking to the car tech on arriving at the dealership changed my mind. he said it will be a waste of money since it will tell me the same thing the code scanner at advance auto told me, so i took his advice and did NOT do it.
save me sm $$$.
He also said tht the issue does not affect or damage my engine in anyway so i could drive it for quite a long while b4 i fix it. The quoted cost is about $600 to replace the Evap system bypass solenoid valve and the evap system 2 way valve and about another $1200 if the the computer needs replaced.
I have being resetting the car but the check engine light/code always comes back after 2 days but i have also read online that Sometimes, if you wait until the “Service Engine Soon” light on your dash turns on it could be too late, because sometimes when the old valve shorts out internally, it could zap the PCM (Powertrain Control Module or car computer) in the process. Then you would need to replace the computer to solve the problem, which could be very expensive.
what have u guys done to fix the issue ?? and is it TRUE tht it can damage my PCM
i found this link here for rsx but i am still
I have my check engine light on and ran a scan tool that reported code P1457 Leak in EVAP system. i was going to do a diagnostic but talking to the car tech on arriving at the dealership changed my mind. he said it will be a waste of money since it will tell me the same thing the code scanner at advance auto told me, so i took his advice and did NOT do it.
save me sm $$$.
He also said tht the issue does not affect or damage my engine in anyway so i could drive it for quite a long while b4 i fix it. The quoted cost is about $600 to replace the Evap system bypass solenoid valve and the evap system 2 way valve and about another $1200 if the the computer needs replaced.
I have being resetting the car but the check engine light/code always comes back after 2 days but i have also read online that Sometimes, if you wait until the “Service Engine Soon” light on your dash turns on it could be too late, because sometimes when the old valve shorts out internally, it could zap the PCM (Powertrain Control Module or car computer) in the process. Then you would need to replace the computer to solve the problem, which could be very expensive.
what have u guys done to fix the issue ?? and is it TRUE tht it can damage my PCM
i found this link here for rsx but i am still
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MarcDavidoff (09-10-2016)
07-12-2011, 08:01 AM
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07-12-2011, 11:48 AM
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I believe I had this same issue with my car. I took it to my mechanic and he fixed it for me for around $300. Let me check my paperwork and see what he wrote down as work being performed on the car and I will get back to you.
07-12-2011, 03:34 PM
#9
the valve they reccommended are :
EVAP Canister Shut Valve
shut valve ??? (i 4get) -
two valve- 82.25
07-12-2011, 04:24 PM
#10
pls let me know i just called acura parts and they were telling i need to buy 3 different valves to do the job none of which is the purge valve, so i am very confused at the moment, i am not trying to spend all tht money if i dnt have to.
the valve they reccommended are :
EVAP Canister Shut Valve
shut valve ??? (i 4get) -
two valve- 82.25
the valve they reccommended are :
EVAP Canister Shut Valve
shut valve ??? (i 4get) -
two valve- 82.25
07-12-2011, 04:42 PM
#11
yes but i figured instead of spending $100 for a diagnostic i cud just fix the one part i think it is and if it comes back return the part and fix the other two .
i got a lot of insight frm this post here
and showthread.php?t=771294 at rsx forum.
i will change the Evap Canister Vent Shut Valve and hope tht solves the problem.
then if i hv to the shut off valve.
u c ...my check engine light came on after i hit a bump just after i finished washing the car at the car wash ( power spraying and all)
i got a lot of insight frm this post here
and showthread.php?t=771294 at rsx forum.
i will change the Evap Canister Vent Shut Valve and hope tht solves the problem.
then if i hv to the shut off valve.
u c ...my check engine light came on after i hit a bump just after i finished washing the car at the car wash ( power spraying and all)
07-12-2011, 06:23 PM
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ok found my paperwork (sorry it took so long, just got home from work)
anyways...
it looks like the part he replaced was a OEM - Canister Purge Solenid - Vent Control Solenid
and he gave a Acura Part# of 17012S84A01
from the local dealership looks like it was $113.27 plus tax
hope that helps
anyways...
it looks like the part he replaced was a OEM - Canister Purge Solenid - Vent Control Solenid
and he gave a Acura Part# of 17012S84A01
from the local dealership looks like it was $113.27 plus tax
hope that helps
07-13-2011, 08:38 PM
#14
Ok I smoke tested the system today and found out where the leak was coming from. Its the canister valve that was leaking. Took forever cause it was such a small leak. Here is the picture:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
I am replacing the valve as well as the canister, so parts 6,8, & 45. I get a great deal through the dealer so I might as well. All the other valves were opening and closing just fine. If the code comes back I know what is left to do.
The other valves/canister/solenoid's are #'s 6, 7, 9, 14. Don't forget the o-rings for them if needed.
Hope this helps
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
I am replacing the valve as well as the canister, so parts 6,8, & 45. I get a great deal through the dealer so I might as well. All the other valves were opening and closing just fine. If the code comes back I know what is left to do.
The other valves/canister/solenoid's are #'s 6, 7, 9, 14. Don't forget the o-rings for them if needed.
Hope this helps
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poisx7 (07-13-2011)
07-13-2011, 10:41 PM
#16
Ok I smoke tested the system today and found out where the leak was coming from. Its the canister valve that was leaking. Took forever cause it was such a small leak. Here is the picture:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
I am replacing the valve as well as the canister, so parts 6,8, & 45. I get a great deal through the dealer so I might as well. All the other valves were opening and closing just fine. If the code comes back I know what is left to do.
The other valves/canister/solenoid's are #'s 6, 7, 9, 14. Don't forget the o-rings for them if needed.
Hope this helps
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
I am replacing the valve as well as the canister, so parts 6,8, & 45. I get a great deal through the dealer so I might as well. All the other valves were opening and closing just fine. If the code comes back I know what is left to do.
The other valves/canister/solenoid's are #'s 6, 7, 9, 14. Don't forget the o-rings for them if needed.
Hope this helps
i might as well do it too, if it does not cost too much. Frm wht i hv read u can usually get away with changing just 6 & 8.
07-20-2011, 08:04 PM
#17
Ok sry i replaced 5, 6 and 8. The canister and the valve come with a new o-ring so you don't have to order seperate. The smoke test I did myself at the shop, it was leaking from the top of the valve (#6). But I read a lot of things in identafix where the canister would have issues shortly after so i just did it all at once.
This is the canister and valves if your looking from the back of the car. Part #8 has the two vacume lines going into it. Thats the canister vent valve. The big part is obviously the canister #5. The smaller one is the valve that was leaking, thats #6.
Here is a close up
And the leaky valve
The screws holding the valve in were super rusted, I was afraid we were gonna break them, I got lucky, so you might wanna get those as well if your gonna do it. #44 & #58 (2 each). Hope this helps. These were the three most common issues. So depending on what you want to spend to try and trouble shoot. My problem was the one, so start there before doing the canister and vent valve maybe?
This is the canister and valves if your looking from the back of the car. Part #8 has the two vacume lines going into it. Thats the canister vent valve. The big part is obviously the canister #5. The smaller one is the valve that was leaking, thats #6.
Here is a close up
And the leaky valve
The screws holding the valve in were super rusted, I was afraid we were gonna break them, I got lucky, so you might wanna get those as well if your gonna do it. #44 & #58 (2 each). Hope this helps. These were the three most common issues. So depending on what you want to spend to try and trouble shoot. My problem was the one, so start there before doing the canister and vent valve maybe?
05-20-2013, 03:06 AM
#18
P1457 possible ECU /PCM fried
hi guys, hope this post will help someone, who like me tried every possible thing but still get P1457.
Have 2003 CL-S automatic. So, I got this code about year. checked or changed almost every possible part of EVAP system, but no luck:
-Canister vent valve works fine
-Purge valve woks fine
-Bypass solenoid valve changed
-two way valve woks fine
-fuel thank holds pressure
-evap lines holds pressure vacuum
after all the only part I expect had problem is ECU. The troubleshooting says ECU provides ground to
-vent valve - 2p connector terminal No2 LT GRN/WHT wire ( comes from A4, ECU Connector A32p)
-Bypass solenoid valve - 2p connector terminal No2 BLU wire ( comes from A3, ECU Connector A32p)
and there must be good continuity between this terminals and body ground, with IGNITION TURNED OFF. When I checked it with electrical multimeter, I found that there is no continuity. To make sure that wire is not damaged, also check the continuity between ECU connector A3 body ground, same result. So definitely, ECU was not grounding bypass valve, which means my old bad bypass valve probably fried its ground in ECU.
Who have a small electrical skill, and familiar with transistors will figure out the rest of my inspection.
So I pull out ECU ( make sure you disconnect battery first) and open it and start investigating circuit board. There no visual signs of burn, damaged solder noting on board and ECU parts. Then I focused on A3 pin, and start checking (by multimeter) its connection to any other part of ECU. After while find out that A3 has direct connection to pin#7 of part called Power Transistor Array ( part number STA415A in my case, but may differ for different ecu)
Transistor array is like group of switches, activating particular circuit under certain conditions. Then googled this part STA415A found its diagram. The diagram says the base for pin#7 of transistor is pin#6, checked the relation between two pins by diode function of multimeter, find out there bad connection between them, also pin#7 have resistance with most of other pins of array. That is indication of internal short of array.
Now ordered STA415A Transistor Array for 3$ from china, will let you know result, after receive and replace it in ECU. Hope it will save me 1000$ from replacing whole ECU.
Will post more pics later.
Have 2003 CL-S automatic. So, I got this code about year. checked or changed almost every possible part of EVAP system, but no luck:
-Canister vent valve works fine
-Purge valve woks fine
-Bypass solenoid valve changed
-two way valve woks fine
-fuel thank holds pressure
-evap lines holds pressure vacuum
after all the only part I expect had problem is ECU. The troubleshooting says ECU provides ground to
-vent valve - 2p connector terminal No2 LT GRN/WHT wire ( comes from A4, ECU Connector A32p)
-Bypass solenoid valve - 2p connector terminal No2 BLU wire ( comes from A3, ECU Connector A32p)
and there must be good continuity between this terminals and body ground, with IGNITION TURNED OFF. When I checked it with electrical multimeter, I found that there is no continuity. To make sure that wire is not damaged, also check the continuity between ECU connector A3 body ground, same result. So definitely, ECU was not grounding bypass valve, which means my old bad bypass valve probably fried its ground in ECU.
Who have a small electrical skill, and familiar with transistors will figure out the rest of my inspection.
So I pull out ECU ( make sure you disconnect battery first) and open it and start investigating circuit board. There no visual signs of burn, damaged solder noting on board and ECU parts. Then I focused on A3 pin, and start checking (by multimeter) its connection to any other part of ECU. After while find out that A3 has direct connection to pin#7 of part called Power Transistor Array ( part number STA415A in my case, but may differ for different ecu)
Transistor array is like group of switches, activating particular circuit under certain conditions. Then googled this part STA415A found its diagram. The diagram says the base for pin#7 of transistor is pin#6, checked the relation between two pins by diode function of multimeter, find out there bad connection between them, also pin#7 have resistance with most of other pins of array. That is indication of internal short of array.Now ordered STA415A Transistor Array for 3$ from china, will let you know result, after receive and replace it in ECU. Hope it will save me 1000$ from replacing whole ECU.
Will post more pics later.
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Honda 101 (01-19-2022)
05-20-2013, 03:08 AM
#19
05-21-2013, 12:01 AM
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I got the same code about 3 months ago, took it to my cousins shop and told me I had to change the valve, I ending up have to change the valve and the canister due to the rusted screws. After work was done haven't gotten any code except torque converter code.. 
06-01-2013, 08:28 PM
#21
Finnally. Replacing the Transistor Array STA415A in ECU fixed my problem. No P1457, vehicle passed internal emission test, confirmed by OBD diagnosis.
So, who thinks the ecu fried, no need to replace whole ecu, just replace the Transistor Array STA415A, need to have some soldering skills.
So, who thinks the ecu fried, no need to replace whole ecu, just replace the Transistor Array STA415A, need to have some soldering skills.
02-09-2016, 02:39 PM
#22
6th Gear
Ok sry i replaced 5, 6 and 8. The canister and the valve come with a new o-ring so you don't have to order seperate. The smoke test I did myself at the shop, it was leaking from the top of the valve (#6). But I read a lot of things in identafix where the canister would have issues shortly after so i just did it all at once.
This is the canister and valves if your looking from the back of the car. Part #8 has the two vacume lines going into it. Thats the canister vent valve. The big part is obviously the canister #5. The smaller one is the valve that was leaking, thats #6.
Here is a close up
And the leaky valve
The screws holding the valve in were super rusted, I was afraid we were gonna break them, I got lucky, so you might wanna get those as well if your gonna do it. #44 & #58 (2 each). Hope this helps. These were the three most common issues. So depending on what you want to spend to try and trouble shoot. My problem was the one, so start there before doing the canister and vent valve maybe?
This is the canister and valves if your looking from the back of the car. Part #8 has the two vacume lines going into it. Thats the canister vent valve. The big part is obviously the canister #5. The smaller one is the valve that was leaking, thats #6.
Here is a close up
And the leaky valve
The screws holding the valve in were super rusted, I was afraid we were gonna break them, I got lucky, so you might wanna get those as well if your gonna do it. #44 & #58 (2 each). Hope this helps. These were the three most common issues. So depending on what you want to spend to try and trouble shoot. My problem was the one, so start there before doing the canister and vent valve maybe?
Dave,
I am getting confused.
#6 part# 17012-S84-A01 VALVE SET, SOLENOID
You are talking about #6 that this is the one liking from your smoke test, but there is not a single picture of it.
Instead you are showing pictures of #5 & #8
#5 part# 17011-S84-A00 CANISTER SET
#8 part# 17310-S84-L31 VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT
Can you confirm that you changed all three part in order to fix P1457 or it was only two parts #5 and #8 , as described in this post.
Thank you.
09-05-2016, 12:14 PM
#23
Instructor
Remove #6?
Ok sry i replaced 5, 6 and 8. The canister and the valve come with a new o-ring so you don't have to order seperate. The smoke test I did myself at the shop, it was leaking from the top of the valve (#6). But I read a lot of things in identafix where the canister would have issues shortly after so i just did it all at once.
This is the canister and valves if your looking from the back of the car. Part #8 has the two vacume lines going into it. Thats the canister vent valve. The big part is obviously the canister #5. The smaller one is the valve that was leaking, thats #6.
Here is a close up
And the leaky valve
The screws holding the valve in were super rusted, I was afraid we were gonna break them, I got lucky, so you might wanna get those as well if your gonna do it. #44 & #58 (2 each). Hope this helps. These were the three most common issues. So depending on what you want to spend to try and trouble shoot. My problem was the one, so start there before doing the canister and vent valve maybe?
This is the canister and valves if your looking from the back of the car. Part #8 has the two vacume lines going into it. Thats the canister vent valve. The big part is obviously the canister #5. The smaller one is the valve that was leaking, thats #6.
Here is a close up
And the leaky valve
The screws holding the valve in were super rusted, I was afraid we were gonna break them, I got lucky, so you might wanna get those as well if your gonna do it. #44 & #58 (2 each). Hope this helps. These were the three most common issues. So depending on what you want to spend to try and trouble shoot. My problem was the one, so start there before doing the canister and vent valve maybe?
09-19-2016, 09:52 PM
#25
I found the area was really hard to work in on my cl-s. I found it easier to disconnect the canister from the car and work on it. 14 Southern Ontario winters means those screws ended being drilled and ground out!
12-26-2016, 11:37 PM
#26
Dave,
I am getting confused.
#6 part# 17012-S84-A01 VALVE SET, SOLENOID
You are talking about #6 that this is the one liking from your smoke test, but there is not a single picture of it.
Instead you are showing pictures of #5 & #8
#5 part# 17011-
S84-A00 CANISTER SET
#8 part# 17310-S84-L31 VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT
Can you confirm that you changed all three part in order to fix P1457 or it was only two parts #5 and #8 , as described in this post.
Thank you.
I am getting confused.
#6 part# 17012-S84-A01 VALVE SET, SOLENOID
You are talking about #6 that this is the one liking from your smoke test, but there is not a single picture of it.
Instead you are showing pictures of #5 & #8
#5 part# 17011-
S84-A00 CANISTER SET#8 part# 17310-S84-L31 VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT
Can you confirm that you changed all three part in order to fix P1457 or it was only two parts #5 and #8 , as described in this post.
Thank you.
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ovcegon (12-30-2016)
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