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Hey guys, i recently bought a cl type s and yesterday this happened. No go with the dealer and the shop is quoting me about 2k in parts and labor, anyone on here deal with this issue before? They're saying its the rear cross member subframe (in the front) that needs replacing and the part from acura is going to be $950 USD. They guess the main reason for the corrosion is that the ac drains right ontop of the thing and that overtime it has slowly worked it away.
Only alternative to buying new from Acura is to find one, a front/rear cross beam, for the 6-speed on car-parts.com.
The parts are different between the Auto Trans. and the Manual trans. If you want to retain the front and rear engine mount dampers that are only on the 6-speed then you need to get a cross beam specifically for a 6-speed. It's all covered on the thread above. Search for an 'Engine Cradle' for your locale or for the whole country and you might get lucky and find one for the Manual trans.
I just got an '03 CL-S last week. Has the same problem but not nearly as bad as yours. As a temp fix I think I can weld some patch pieces over the rusted portion while I search for a new/used cradle piece. Please post updates on how you handle your fix.
I just got an '03 CL-S last week. Has the same problem but not nearly as bad as yours. As a temp fix I think I can weld some patch pieces over the rusted portion while I search for a new/used cradle piece. Please post updates on how you handle your fix.
Luckily enough as the frame and surrounding area was completely gone i found an acura dealership selling the part for a low price and was able purchase it immediately. Heres the link incase you want to buy one as well as i was not able to find it for such a low price anywhere else, i plan on having a local shop install the part in a few days. Suspension Cross-member | Genuine Acura | 50200-S3M-A01 For now its on sale for $574 instead of the $950 the shop wanted for the part or the 750 acura wanted for it.
The TL's have the same problem. Just got my 03' TL-S back yesterday with a bill of $2,600 for doing the rear section only. The dealer wanted to do both sections at an additional $1,100. My car only has 68k miles and is garage kept. I had an independent shop do the work and they were even praising the car for being so spotless everywhere else.
Ouch! That is steep!! Does anyone know the cause of this? I think I read that someone's guess was that the a/c condensate line drains right on to this area.
Ouch! That is steep!! Does anyone know the cause of this? I think I read that someone's guess was that the a/c condensate line drains right on to this area.
From what I'velse read a few other places, that is the cause. Even saw where the 99'-02' Accords had the same problem but Acura said there was nothing wrong with their craftsmanship.
Regarding the cost, the shop was recommended to me by a radio host of a car repair show. Their lot was full of Mercodes, Porsche, Bentley, etc. But the shop was very clean ans with competent people. They even had no problem with me it the shop, under the car on the lift pulling on things and taking pictures.
Ouch! That is steep!! Does anyone know the cause of this? I think I read that someone's guess was that the a/c condensate line drains right on to this area.
yea, thats what the shop said when i got it looked at the first time, the a/c drain is DIRECTLY above the frame on the passenger side which is definitely the cause for the rust since there is minimal rust on my drivers side subframe.
Yesterday I went to the local parts store and picked up an 18" section of 1/2" I.D. heater hose and a hose clamp for about $2 and put it on the drain outlet. Not the easiest to put in and just needed a very long flat head screwdriver or equally long 1/4" ratchet. NOTE: Get under the car with your feet pointed towards the back of the car to reach the outlet. I also avoided laying the tube against the steering rack. You'll see what I mean. Then just cut it to length.
Yesterday I went to the local parts store and picked up an 18" section of 1/2" I.D. heater hose and a hose clamp for about $2 and put it on the drain outlet. Not the easiest to put in and just needed a very long flat head screwdriver or equally long 1/4" ratchet. NOTE: Get under the car with your feet pointed towards the back of the car to reach the outlet. I also avoided laying the tube against the steering rack. You'll see what I mean. Then just cut it to length.
I found a new (used) crossmember from a salvage yard in Alabama for $250. I think I'll do my temporary patch fix for now & wait till next year before I put the new part in.
Procrastinate.....
Procrastinate....
Procrastinate.........
dang, that's rough, my 02 CL-S auto was in pristine shape at 138K when I sold it, do you regularly wash the underside of your car in the winter?
Well, it just turned Autumn here last week but I had the right front wheel off and you can see the damage plain as day. But I do get under the car with the high pressure "wand" at a car wash when I do the engine bay.
I had the same problem on my 2003 CL-S at 150,000 miles. I bought an entire front subframe assembly off EBAY for about $400 shipped and took it to my buddy who works at Acura. Parts were from texas and were rust free. I think i paid him $300 to do it.
Well i have the new frame in now and everything is nice and clean. Only problem is after the shop put it in theres a weird clicking sound when i accelerate from a stop and when i shift from first, second, and third. Already checked and its not the trans (thank god).
Have the same problem with my '03 CL type S 6MT. Local independent wants 1500 to repair. Everything else with the car is great. Need to get my 30 posts to be able to note that I'm ready to sell it (125K miles, no mods).
Well i have the new frame in now and everything is nice and clean. Only problem is after the shop put it in theres a weird clicking sound when i accelerate from a stop and when i shift from first, second, and third. Already checked and its not the trans (thank god).
check your front engine mount and make sure it is not loose or broken
09-14-2016, 04:43 PM
but not nearly as bad as yours. As a temp fix I think I can weld some patch pieces over the rusted portion while I search for a new/used cradle piece. Please post updates on how you handle your fix.
