scalbert

First off, I will do a full write up on this for an FAQ soon. This is just the quick version. Plus, some photo's will be available soon, I didn't have a digital camera so I just used my wife's new Nikon (I'm sure the pictures will come out clearer than the dig...).

The nerve of the dealer, saying it would take 4 hours... Time for a complete install, 2.5 hours. (and only two significant scrapes). Could have been done in 2 hours if I had someone to help due to one single issue (discussed below). But in all, it is fairly easy, if you have the right tools. I do have all needed tools including a 5hp/25 Gal. compressor with all needed air tools. But simple hand tools will work.

But the big thing to remember when attempting the install, have long extensions, 18" or 24", for your ratchet. And have two sets of tools.

I was surprised at how quickly everything came off. Even with the rear manifold cover lower bolt sticking, which I broke off, it still only took 45 minutes to remove everything. I have a pic with old and new sitting side by side. To access everything I put the front up on ramps then jacked and supported the rear with stands. With it like this, getting to the rear manifold from the top was difficult due to the elevated car height. But from the top was the easiest, so I used an old crate to stand on, raising me about a foot. This way I didn't have to drop and raise the vehicle...

I do suggest that the manifolds be accessed from the top. The front is a no-brainer. It is well exposed. The rear I suggest accessing from the drivers side. It may be a bit of a reach to get to the passengers side bolts, but doable. I'm 6'1" and it was well within my reach. Someone shorter could still easily get to it.

I won't go into details on the install, Comptech's installation sheet defines it well enough and I do suggest having the shop manual also.

But the one area that was a pain was hooking up the new A-Pipe to the new headers. Instead of using studs they use bolts. Problem here is that the bolt will turn on top but there is little to no room to put a wrench on it and hold it. The rear was the worst. I used and adjustable wrench lodged against something strong to keep it from turning when tightening the lower bolt. Again, an air ratchet is a welcome tool n this case. The front bolts can be held with a swivel joint and a long extension. But you will need someone's help here.

Tightening down the headers to the heads was simple. The back was tight but very doable. That was it...

First impressions, exactly what I expected. Not neck snapping or immediately noticeable, but as the revs climb it begs for more. In fact, I found myself stepping into the throttle a little less deep in most cases. It wasn’t needed to obtain normal speeds. But when I did get into it the power seems to continue well past where it would drop of. The car is now begging for about 500 more revs…

Definitely worth the $$, IMO.

tel1sps

Can't wait to see your pic's.....

------------------
01 Silver 3.2CLs

MikeS 18

Are they noticably louder?

------------------
CL-S #22,299 Black/Parchment/Nav, spoiler, door & fender guards, wood trim, PIAA 19169 & 9005, V1 w/remote, trunk & winter mats, Road Salt Finish by Mass DOT, only 1 scratched rim

scalbert

No, in fact my wife, who would be the first to notice and disagree with the sound, could not tell a difference. I did manually flex the flex joint, but am unsure if that help.

The sound at all speeds is no different IMO.

scalbert

No, in fact my wife, who would be the first to notice and disagree with the sound, could not tell a difference. I did manually flex the flex joint, but am unsure if that help.

The sound at all speeds is no different IMO.

MikeS 18

Can you scan the C/T install sheets as well so that we can judge whether this is something which we might be able to undertake? - or take a picture of them too...

------------------
CL-S #22,299 Black/Parchment/Nav, spoiler, door & fender guards, wood trim, PIAA 19169 & 9005, V1 w/remote, trunk & winter mats, Road Salt Finish by Mass DOT, only 1 scratched rim

Mike

That's great, Steve!

Let us know when you make some gtech runs. Especially if you can make some 1/4 mile runs since you have a good baseline.

------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech Headers
Comptech Springs
Muds
Wheel locks
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car


[This message has been edited by Mike (edited 01-29-2001).]

astro

Once again, thanks Scalbert

can't wait to see the pics, now I'm kicking myself in the ass for letting the dealer put my headers on

guess that will teach me for being lazy...hehe

btw: flexing the pipe by hand is exactly how I fixed my headers after getting sick of the resonance they were making...



------------------
Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks

scalbert

Sure, I'll bring both the shop manual and the Comptech installation sheet in tomorrow and and scan them.

scalbert

I plan on it soon. However, it'll be in the 60's today, hardly equivalent of the 30 degree runs I made.

But have made numerous runs in these temps. So there is a baseline for comparison. In general, with temps in the 60's I was able to make fairly consitant 6.3's with these temps and 6.1's with the intake on.

We'll see what it is now...

soopa

Sweet! Let me know when you have the full write up and well get it FAQ'd.

jeffyncs

Hi scalbert, will you do a write up on the how-to any time sooner? I would like to do it myself but short with a detail instruction. Thanks very much.

J

Chemmech

Scalbert doesn't post here any more.

iisylentii

lol this thread is back from the grave haa ha