How to install 2002 CLS fogs on 2003 CLS
02-11-2003, 01:30 AM
#1
boosted is best
Thread Starter
How to install 2002 CLS fogs on 2003 CLS
For those of you who were greatly disappointment to find out that Acura didn't offer the fogs on the 2003 CLS and were wondering what you could do, see instructions below.
Apparently, there was only one state in the USA that didn't pass the 2003 CLS with fogs and that state was either AK or KT, I think. So Acura put in these useless fake vents where the fogs would have gone.
Like you, I was a bit pissed off at Acura. But that didn't stop me from buying my 2003 CL Type-S 6 speed. So the day I picked up my car, I order the following parts:
Parts List
=============================================
1) Bulb (stock), 12V 5W, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33301-SA0-741, qty 2, ($3.36)
1A) Bulb, 12V 18W, P/N PIAA 19224, qty 2, ($15) (I installed these instead of the stock. They closely match the headlights in color)
2) Fog light unit, right, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33901-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
3) Fog light unit, left, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33951-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
4) Light Socket 2P, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 34303-SS1-003, qty 2, ($15)
5) Screw, self tapping 4x1, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 90333-SM3-003, ($5.38)
6) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., black, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
7) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., red, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
8) T-taps (in-line wire taps which receive a male fully insulated slip-on terminal), 16-14 awg, qty 4, ($2)
9) slip-on (fast-on), male, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the T-taps correctly
10) slip-on (fast-on), female, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the Light Socket listed above correctly.
11) Split spiral sheathing, 1/4 in., black, 8 feet ($2)
12) Plastic tie wraps, 6 in., qty 8 ($1)
13) Electrical tape, ($1)
Total cost for me was around $125, plus tax.
Tools required:
=============================================
1) Screw driver, standard, medium. (for removal of snap clips)
2) Screw driver, phillips, medium. (for removal of fake vents)
3) Wire cutters
4) Wire strippers
5) Terminal-wire crimper (for installation of slip-on terminals)
6) Pair of pliers (for installation of T-taps)
Fog light Installation Instructions for 2003 CLS using 2002 CLS fogs:
=============================================
PLEASE READ: Disclaimer: Above are the parts I used with the following steps. Although I have had good success with my installation and haven't run into any problems yet, anyone using the parts I used or any other parts and using my installation instructions as described below is solely responsible for their own installation and any problems that may result. In other words, I am NOT responsible for your installation issues or problems.
This installation doesn't require removing the headlight assemblies or the front bumper.
1) Open hood.
2) Remove plastic cover that goes across front, just behind both headlight assemblies and in front of the radiator and covers up the hood latch and hood release lever. There are 8 snap clips that need to be removed using a standard medium screw driver.
2a) There is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed just behind the right headlight assembly and next to the battery (looking back toward the front bumper and window shield). Remove the small snap click.
3) Each fake vent is held in place by a screw on the inside edge of the vent and a plastic tab on the outside edge of the vent. Remove fake vents on both side where fogs will go by unscrewing (counter clockwise) the phillips screw on inside edge of each fake vent until it disengages with the threaded clip on the bumper. There is a clear shot for the phillips screw driver to engage with the screw. One the left side, it's the upper left hand louver in the grill and on the right side, it's the upper right hand louver in the grill. In either louver, you should see a slot cutout that makes for a clear shot for the screw driver from the outside of the grill to the vent mounting screw.
4) Once screws have been disengaged from the threaded clips on the bumper, the vents should be popped out from the screw inside edge, away from the outside edge plastic tab on the vent.
5) Since Acura removed the fog light wiring for 2003 CLS, an alternative wire tap will be necessary. Locate the headlight low beam wire pairs for the left and right side headlight assemblies, just behind the low beam connectors.
6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully install the T-taps onto each wire, about 2 inches away from the low beam connectors.
7) Route the split spiral sheathing from the low beam connectors to the opening for the fogs on both sides so you can get the correct length before installing wires. Leave enough slack before cutting.
8) Remove both pieces of split spiral sheathing from where you routed them. Then install a pair of black and red 16 awg. wires into each sheath, leaving about 2 inches of wire on either end of sheath.
9) Strip about 1/4 inch off of each wire end.
10) Crimp on the male slip-on terminals on one end and the female slip-on terminals on the other end.
11) Reroute the sheath with wires and use plastic ties in at least three places each, making sure sheaths don't come into contact with any sharp edges or hot surfaces. Allow for a few extra inches of slack on either end.
12) Fasten male slip-on terminals onto T-taps. Be care to fully engage male slip-on terminal tap into T-taps. They have the tendency to fold to one side if you don't have them aligned correctly. They should snap on securely.
13) Carefully wrap T-taps and male slip-on terminals with electrical tap to ensure they don't come loose. This will also provide additional weather proofing.
14) Install each light socket onto each pair of wires with female slip-on terminals - fog light end.
15) Install the light bulb of your choice (stock or PIAA 19224 or whatever you decide to use).
16) Test your newly installed light bulbs, left and right sides by turning on headlights. Do this before continuing. Resolve all wiring issues before continuing.
17) Install a self tapping (4x1) screw into each fog light unit until the thread just starts to protrude slightly.
18) Install a light socket into each fog light unit.
19) Install each fog light unit (left-hand and right-hand units) into the mounting hole, plastic tab end first. Be careful with the wires when you pop the fogs into place.
20) Engage each fog light self tapping (4x1) screw into the threaded clip on the bumper. You may need to slightly move the fog light unit around until screw engages with clip. You can also place your hand just behind the clip to feel how much the screw has engaged - should be about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
21) Reinstall small plastic cover that was removed in step 2a), using original small snap clip.
21a) Reinstall plastic cover that was removed in step 2), using original snap clips.
22) This is a nice to have. I didn't get a chance to do this yet but will probably install an inline fuse later. Since the PIAA 19224s draw about 1.5 amps (12vdc, 18w), I'd recommend using a 3 to 4 amp slo-blo fuse. I'd put the inline fuse housing on each side, just a few inches after the T-taps. You'll have to open up the sheath and splice the fuse wires into one of the wires on each side.
Fog lights only turn on when low beams are turned on which is exactly how my stock 2001 CLS was. This install took me about four hours. But I spent a couple of hours looking at tapping into the mark lights in headlight assemblies, but this required removing bumper and headlight assemblies. This would have taken another two to three hours and I may have ended up breaking something.
I you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me in this thread.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time.
-g
Apparently, there was only one state in the USA that didn't pass the 2003 CLS with fogs and that state was either AK or KT, I think. So Acura put in these useless fake vents where the fogs would have gone.
Like you, I was a bit pissed off at Acura. But that didn't stop me from buying my 2003 CL Type-S 6 speed. So the day I picked up my car, I order the following parts:
Parts List
=============================================
1) Bulb (stock), 12V 5W, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33301-SA0-741, qty 2, ($3.36)
1A) Bulb, 12V 18W, P/N PIAA 19224, qty 2, ($15) (I installed these instead of the stock. They closely match the headlights in color)
2) Fog light unit, right, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33901-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
3) Fog light unit, left, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33951-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
4) Light Socket 2P, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 34303-SS1-003, qty 2, ($15)
5) Screw, self tapping 4x1, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 90333-SM3-003, ($5.38)
6) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., black, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
7) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., red, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
8) T-taps (in-line wire taps which receive a male fully insulated slip-on terminal), 16-14 awg, qty 4, ($2)
9) slip-on (fast-on), male, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the T-taps correctly
10) slip-on (fast-on), female, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the Light Socket listed above correctly.
11) Split spiral sheathing, 1/4 in., black, 8 feet ($2)
12) Plastic tie wraps, 6 in., qty 8 ($1)
13) Electrical tape, ($1)
Total cost for me was around $125, plus tax.
Tools required:
=============================================
1) Screw driver, standard, medium. (for removal of snap clips)
2) Screw driver, phillips, medium. (for removal of fake vents)
3) Wire cutters
4) Wire strippers
5) Terminal-wire crimper (for installation of slip-on terminals)
6) Pair of pliers (for installation of T-taps)
Fog light Installation Instructions for 2003 CLS using 2002 CLS fogs:
=============================================
PLEASE READ: Disclaimer: Above are the parts I used with the following steps. Although I have had good success with my installation and haven't run into any problems yet, anyone using the parts I used or any other parts and using my installation instructions as described below is solely responsible for their own installation and any problems that may result. In other words, I am NOT responsible for your installation issues or problems.
This installation doesn't require removing the headlight assemblies or the front bumper.
1) Open hood.
2) Remove plastic cover that goes across front, just behind both headlight assemblies and in front of the radiator and covers up the hood latch and hood release lever. There are 8 snap clips that need to be removed using a standard medium screw driver.
2a) There is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed just behind the right headlight assembly and next to the battery (looking back toward the front bumper and window shield). Remove the small snap click.
3) Each fake vent is held in place by a screw on the inside edge of the vent and a plastic tab on the outside edge of the vent. Remove fake vents on both side where fogs will go by unscrewing (counter clockwise) the phillips screw on inside edge of each fake vent until it disengages with the threaded clip on the bumper. There is a clear shot for the phillips screw driver to engage with the screw. One the left side, it's the upper left hand louver in the grill and on the right side, it's the upper right hand louver in the grill. In either louver, you should see a slot cutout that makes for a clear shot for the screw driver from the outside of the grill to the vent mounting screw.
4) Once screws have been disengaged from the threaded clips on the bumper, the vents should be popped out from the screw inside edge, away from the outside edge plastic tab on the vent.
5) Since Acura removed the fog light wiring for 2003 CLS, an alternative wire tap will be necessary. Locate the headlight low beam wire pairs for the left and right side headlight assemblies, just behind the low beam connectors.
6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully install the T-taps onto each wire, about 2 inches away from the low beam connectors.
7) Route the split spiral sheathing from the low beam connectors to the opening for the fogs on both sides so you can get the correct length before installing wires. Leave enough slack before cutting.
8) Remove both pieces of split spiral sheathing from where you routed them. Then install a pair of black and red 16 awg. wires into each sheath, leaving about 2 inches of wire on either end of sheath.
9) Strip about 1/4 inch off of each wire end.
10) Crimp on the male slip-on terminals on one end and the female slip-on terminals on the other end.
11) Reroute the sheath with wires and use plastic ties in at least three places each, making sure sheaths don't come into contact with any sharp edges or hot surfaces. Allow for a few extra inches of slack on either end.
12) Fasten male slip-on terminals onto T-taps. Be care to fully engage male slip-on terminal tap into T-taps. They have the tendency to fold to one side if you don't have them aligned correctly. They should snap on securely.
13) Carefully wrap T-taps and male slip-on terminals with electrical tap to ensure they don't come loose. This will also provide additional weather proofing.
14) Install each light socket onto each pair of wires with female slip-on terminals - fog light end.
15) Install the light bulb of your choice (stock or PIAA 19224 or whatever you decide to use).
16) Test your newly installed light bulbs, left and right sides by turning on headlights. Do this before continuing. Resolve all wiring issues before continuing.
17) Install a self tapping (4x1) screw into each fog light unit until the thread just starts to protrude slightly.
18) Install a light socket into each fog light unit.
19) Install each fog light unit (left-hand and right-hand units) into the mounting hole, plastic tab end first. Be careful with the wires when you pop the fogs into place.
20) Engage each fog light self tapping (4x1) screw into the threaded clip on the bumper. You may need to slightly move the fog light unit around until screw engages with clip. You can also place your hand just behind the clip to feel how much the screw has engaged - should be about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
21) Reinstall small plastic cover that was removed in step 2a), using original small snap clip.
21a) Reinstall plastic cover that was removed in step 2), using original snap clips.
22) This is a nice to have. I didn't get a chance to do this yet but will probably install an inline fuse later. Since the PIAA 19224s draw about 1.5 amps (12vdc, 18w), I'd recommend using a 3 to 4 amp slo-blo fuse. I'd put the inline fuse housing on each side, just a few inches after the T-taps. You'll have to open up the sheath and splice the fuse wires into one of the wires on each side.
Fog lights only turn on when low beams are turned on which is exactly how my stock 2001 CLS was. This install took me about four hours. But I spent a couple of hours looking at tapping into the mark lights in headlight assemblies, but this required removing bumper and headlight assemblies. This would have taken another two to three hours and I may have ended up breaking something.
I you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me in this thread.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time.
-g
02-11-2003, 07:20 AM
#3
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Great write-up, but why go through all that OEM part expense and labor instead of getting something aftermarket.
The stock 2001/2002 “road lamps” are nothing more then marker lights.
If I go through the trouble I’m gonna put PIAA’s or something in there.
You’re limited on bulbs in the stock housings because anything bright enough to function like a real FOG light will melt the housing.
Shawn S
The stock 2001/2002 “road lamps” are nothing more then marker lights.
If I go through the trouble I’m gonna put PIAA’s or something in there.
You’re limited on bulbs in the stock housings because anything bright enough to function like a real FOG light will melt the housing.
Shawn S
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01-01-2005, 08:29 PM
#10
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Question, have u noticed how the TL roadlamps are a lot more reflective and clearer housing as apposeto the the 2003 CL ones?!
I am wondering if those would fit on my CLP 03
and what the part # is on it.
I am wondering if those would fit on my CLP 03
and what the part # is on it.
01-01-2005, 10:37 PM
#11
boosted is best
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nismo
Question, have u noticed how the TL roadlamps are a lot more reflective and clearer housing as apposeto the the 2003 CL ones?!
I am wondering if those would fit on my CLP 03
and what the part # is on it.
I am wondering if those would fit on my CLP 03
and what the part # is on it.
01-04-2005, 03:13 AM
#13
boosted is best
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nismo
i think they could fit, they look the same to me
01-18-2005, 02:36 PM
#14
Cruising in ATL!!
Everything sounds great, but I got one question. Instead of using stock bulbs for fog light, I want to use HID bulbs to match my headlights. Would this produce too much lighting that it could possibly melt the housing or create any problem that I should be aware of before purchasing it?? and do you recommend any website or store to purchase all these components that are needed for this installation??
01-18-2005, 03:58 PM
#15
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baboya96, I haven't done this procedure myself (I'm looking at this thread for research!) But I remembered that Chodthewacko's wonderful FAQ mentions that 27 watt bulbs are fine, 39 watt bulbs melt the housing. Also, people have used "Polarg M6 bulbs"
http://www.geocities.com/gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Light5
http://www.geocities.com/gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Light5
03-05-2005, 08:33 AM
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cls6spd03,
ok, plastic cover is removed and going to post a couple pics of what i see,
here is the drivers side:
here is a pass side:
Ok, if can see those wire plugs(gray) that go into the rear of the headlight assemblies. On the drivers side there is a red w/ yellow stripe and black wires.
And on the pass. side there is a red w/ green stripe and black wire. Are these the wires I need to tap into for the road lamps? I assume I use the black for ground and the red for positive. Also, when hooking the wires to the light sockets for the road lamps, which plug do I use for the ground and which do I use for the positive? They both look the same.
thanks
ok, plastic cover is removed and going to post a couple pics of what i see,
here is the drivers side:
here is a pass side:
Ok, if can see those wire plugs(gray) that go into the rear of the headlight assemblies. On the drivers side there is a red w/ yellow stripe and black wires.
And on the pass. side there is a red w/ green stripe and black wire. Are these the wires I need to tap into for the road lamps? I assume I use the black for ground and the red for positive. Also, when hooking the wires to the light sockets for the road lamps, which plug do I use for the ground and which do I use for the positive? They both look the same.
thanks
03-05-2005, 01:33 PM
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Well, just to let you know they are all installed and ready to go. And working great!!! Just gotta get a set of the PIAA 19173 yellow ions and trade out the stock ones and dont even have to worry about wattage issues cause 5 also!!
03-07-2005, 12:52 PM
#20
boosted is best
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by n1976jmk
Well, just to let you know they are all installed and ready to go. And working great!!! Just gotta get a set of the PIAA 19173 yellow ions and trade out the stock ones and dont even have to worry about wattage issues cause 5 also!!
03-07-2005, 01:01 PM
#21
Cruising in ATL!!
Anyone interested in doing this installation for some money?? I really want to get it done but when it comes to wiring, I don't know the difference between white and black... so clueless!!!
04-01-2006, 10:28 PM
#24
boosted is best
Thread Starter
The OEM bulbs are 5W. Many others are using PIAA 19224 which are 18W and look very close to the OEM headlights in color.
If I understand correctly, HID bulbs get really hot and would probably melt the OEM housing.
If I understand correctly, HID bulbs get really hot and would probably melt the OEM housing.
04-30-2006, 01:06 AM
#25
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Did you have any problems when installing?
Hey NSX_TUNER.... I have been thinking about doing this, but was curious how difficult the job was (like time consuming or any lil pains?) Also for people looking where to buy you can use this link... http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
05-02-2006, 11:13 AM
#26
boosted is best
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by AegeanCl
Hey NSX_TUNER.... I have been thinking about doing this, but was curious how difficult the job was (like time consuming or any lil pains?) Also for people looking where to buy you can use this link... http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
05-03-2006, 06:15 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by AegeanCl
Hey NSX_TUNER.... I have been thinking about doing this, but was curious how difficult the job was (like time consuming or any lil pains?) Also for people looking where to buy you can use this link... http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
06-14-2006, 08:05 PM
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i just installed these on my 03 CL very easy,
I just installed these on my 03 CL-S, I first use stock bulbs, bad choice, so I went and installed the PIAA bulbs, way better. 
Originally Posted by NSX-Tuner
For those of you who were greatly disappointment to find out that Acura didn't offer the fogs on the 2003 CLS and were wondering what you could do, see instructions below.
Apparently, there was only one state in the USA that didn't pass the 2003 CLS with fogs and that state was either AK or KT, I think. So Acura put in these useless fake vents where the fogs would have gone.
Like you, I was a bit pissed off at Acura. But that didn't stop me from buying my 2003 CL Type-S 6 speed. So the day I picked up my car, I order the following parts:
Parts List
=============================================
1) Bulb (stock), 12V 5W, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33301-SA0-741, qty 2, ($3.36)
1A) Bulb, 12V 18W, P/N PIAA 19224, qty 2, ($15) (I installed these instead of the stock. They closely match the headlights in color)
2) Fog light unit, right, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33901-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
3) Fog light unit, left, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33951-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
4) Light Socket 2P, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 34303-SS1-003, qty 2, ($15)
5) Screw, self tapping 4x1, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 90333-SM3-003, ($5.38)
6) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., black, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
7) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., red, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
8) T-taps (in-line wire taps which receive a male fully insulated slip-on terminal), 16-14 awg, qty 4, ($2)
9) slip-on (fast-on), male, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the T-taps correctly
10) slip-on (fast-on), female, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the Light Socket listed above correctly.
11) Split spiral sheathing, 1/4 in., black, 8 feet ($2)
12) Plastic tie wraps, 6 in., qty 8 ($1)
13) Electrical tape, ($1)
Total cost for me was around $125, plus tax.
Tools required:
=============================================
1) Screw driver, standard, medium. (for removal of snap clips)
2) Screw driver, phillips, medium. (for removal of fake vents)
3) Wire cutters
4) Wire strippers
5) Terminal-wire crimper (for installation of slip-on terminals)
6) Pair of pliers (for installation of T-taps)
Fog light Installation Instructions for 2003 CLS using 2002 CLS fogs:
=============================================
PLEASE READ: Disclaimer: Above are the parts I used with the following steps. Although I have had good success with my installation and haven't run into any problems yet, anyone using the parts I used or any other parts and using my installation instructions as described below is solely responsible for their own installation and any problems that may result. In other words, I am NOT responsible for your installation issues or problems.
This installation doesn't require removing the headlight assemblies or the front bumper.
1) Open hood.
2) Remove plastic cover that goes across front, just behind both headlight assemblies and in front of the radiator and covers up the hood latch and hood release lever. There are 8 snap clips that need to be removed using a standard medium screw driver.
2a) There is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed just behind the right headlight assembly and next to the battery (looking back toward the front bumper and window shield). Remove the small snap click.
3) Each fake vent is held in place by a screw on the inside edge of the vent and a plastic tab on the outside edge of the vent. Remove fake vents on both side where fogs will go by unscrewing (counter clockwise) the phillips screw on inside edge of each fake vent until it disengages with the threaded clip on the bumper. There is a clear shot for the phillips screw driver to engage with the screw. One the left side, it's the upper left hand louver in the grill and on the right side, it's the upper right hand louver in the grill. In either louver, you should see a slot cutout that makes for a clear shot for the screw driver from the outside of the grill to the vent mounting screw.
4) Once screws have been disengaged from the threaded clips on the bumper, the vents should be popped out from the screw inside edge, away from the outside edge plastic tab on the vent.
5) Since Acura removed the fog light wiring for 2003 CLS, an alternative wire tap will be necessary. Locate the headlight low beam wire pairs for the left and right side headlight assemblies, just behind the low beam connectors.
6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully install the T-taps onto each wire, about 2 inches away from the low beam connectors.
7) Route the split spiral sheathing from the low beam connectors to the opening for the fogs on both sides so you can get the correct length before installing wires. Leave enough slack before cutting.
8) Remove both pieces of split spiral sheathing from where you routed them. Then install a pair of black and red 16 awg. wires into each sheath, leaving about 2 inches of wire on either end of sheath.
9) Strip about 1/4 inch off of each wire end.
10) Crimp on the male slip-on terminals on one end and the female slip-on terminals on the other end.
11) Reroute the sheath with wires and use plastic ties in at least three places each, making sure sheaths don't come into contact with any sharp edges or hot surfaces. Allow for a few extra inches of slack on either end.
12) Fasten male slip-on terminals onto T-taps. Be care to fully engage male slip-on terminal tap into T-taps. They have the tendency to fold to one side if you don't have them aligned correctly. They should snap on securely.
13) Carefully wrap T-taps and male slip-on terminals with electrical tap to ensure they don't come loose. This will also provide additional weather proofing.
14) Install each light socket onto each pair of wires with female slip-on terminals - fog light end.
15) Install the light bulb of your choice (stock or PIAA 19224 or whatever you decide to use).
16) Test your newly installed light bulbs, left and right sides by turning on headlights. Do this before continuing. Resolve all wiring issues before continuing.
17) Install a self tapping (4x1) screw into each fog light unit until the thread just starts to protrude slightly.
18) Install a light socket into each fog light unit.
19) Install each fog light unit (left-hand and right-hand units) into the mounting hole, plastic tab end first. Be careful with the wires when you pop the fogs into place.
20) Engage each fog light self tapping (4x1) screw into the threaded clip on the bumper. You may need to slightly move the fog light unit around until screw engages with clip. You can also place your hand just behind the clip to feel how much the screw has engaged - should be about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
21) Reinstall small plastic cover that was removed in step 2a), using original small snap clip.
21a) Reinstall plastic cover that was removed in step 2), using original snap clips.
22) This is a nice to have. I didn't get a chance to do this yet but will probably install an inline fuse later. Since the PIAA 19224s draw about 1.5 amps (12vdc, 18w), I'd recommend using a 3 to 4 amp slo-blo fuse. I'd put the inline fuse housing on each side, just a few inches after the T-taps. You'll have to open up the sheath and splice the fuse wires into one of the wires on each side.
Fog lights only turn on when low beams are turned on which is exactly how my stock 2001 CLS was. This install took me about four hours. But I spent a couple of hours looking at tapping into the mark lights in headlight assemblies, but this required removing bumper and headlight assemblies. This would have taken another two to three hours and I may have ended up breaking something.
I you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me in this thread.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time.
-g
Apparently, there was only one state in the USA that didn't pass the 2003 CLS with fogs and that state was either AK or KT, I think. So Acura put in these useless fake vents where the fogs would have gone.
Like you, I was a bit pissed off at Acura. But that didn't stop me from buying my 2003 CL Type-S 6 speed. So the day I picked up my car, I order the following parts:
Parts List
=============================================
1) Bulb (stock), 12V 5W, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33301-SA0-741, qty 2, ($3.36)
1A) Bulb, 12V 18W, P/N PIAA 19224, qty 2, ($15) (I installed these instead of the stock. They closely match the headlights in color)
2) Fog light unit, right, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33901-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
3) Fog light unit, left, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33951-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
4) Light Socket 2P, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 34303-SS1-003, qty 2, ($15)
5) Screw, self tapping 4x1, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 90333-SM3-003, ($5.38)
6) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., black, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
7) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., red, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
8) T-taps (in-line wire taps which receive a male fully insulated slip-on terminal), 16-14 awg, qty 4, ($2)
9) slip-on (fast-on), male, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the T-taps correctly
10) slip-on (fast-on), female, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the Light Socket listed above correctly.
11) Split spiral sheathing, 1/4 in., black, 8 feet ($2)
12) Plastic tie wraps, 6 in., qty 8 ($1)
13) Electrical tape, ($1)
Total cost for me was around $125, plus tax.
Tools required:
=============================================
1) Screw driver, standard, medium. (for removal of snap clips)
2) Screw driver, phillips, medium. (for removal of fake vents)
3) Wire cutters
4) Wire strippers
5) Terminal-wire crimper (for installation of slip-on terminals)
6) Pair of pliers (for installation of T-taps)
Fog light Installation Instructions for 2003 CLS using 2002 CLS fogs:
=============================================
PLEASE READ: Disclaimer: Above are the parts I used with the following steps. Although I have had good success with my installation and haven't run into any problems yet, anyone using the parts I used or any other parts and using my installation instructions as described below is solely responsible for their own installation and any problems that may result. In other words, I am NOT responsible for your installation issues or problems.
This installation doesn't require removing the headlight assemblies or the front bumper.
1) Open hood.
2) Remove plastic cover that goes across front, just behind both headlight assemblies and in front of the radiator and covers up the hood latch and hood release lever. There are 8 snap clips that need to be removed using a standard medium screw driver.
2a) There is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed just behind the right headlight assembly and next to the battery (looking back toward the front bumper and window shield). Remove the small snap click.
3) Each fake vent is held in place by a screw on the inside edge of the vent and a plastic tab on the outside edge of the vent. Remove fake vents on both side where fogs will go by unscrewing (counter clockwise) the phillips screw on inside edge of each fake vent until it disengages with the threaded clip on the bumper. There is a clear shot for the phillips screw driver to engage with the screw. One the left side, it's the upper left hand louver in the grill and on the right side, it's the upper right hand louver in the grill. In either louver, you should see a slot cutout that makes for a clear shot for the screw driver from the outside of the grill to the vent mounting screw.
4) Once screws have been disengaged from the threaded clips on the bumper, the vents should be popped out from the screw inside edge, away from the outside edge plastic tab on the vent.
5) Since Acura removed the fog light wiring for 2003 CLS, an alternative wire tap will be necessary. Locate the headlight low beam wire pairs for the left and right side headlight assemblies, just behind the low beam connectors.
6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully install the T-taps onto each wire, about 2 inches away from the low beam connectors.
7) Route the split spiral sheathing from the low beam connectors to the opening for the fogs on both sides so you can get the correct length before installing wires. Leave enough slack before cutting.
8) Remove both pieces of split spiral sheathing from where you routed them. Then install a pair of black and red 16 awg. wires into each sheath, leaving about 2 inches of wire on either end of sheath.
9) Strip about 1/4 inch off of each wire end.
10) Crimp on the male slip-on terminals on one end and the female slip-on terminals on the other end.
11) Reroute the sheath with wires and use plastic ties in at least three places each, making sure sheaths don't come into contact with any sharp edges or hot surfaces. Allow for a few extra inches of slack on either end.
12) Fasten male slip-on terminals onto T-taps. Be care to fully engage male slip-on terminal tap into T-taps. They have the tendency to fold to one side if you don't have them aligned correctly. They should snap on securely.
13) Carefully wrap T-taps and male slip-on terminals with electrical tap to ensure they don't come loose. This will also provide additional weather proofing.
14) Install each light socket onto each pair of wires with female slip-on terminals - fog light end.
15) Install the light bulb of your choice (stock or PIAA 19224 or whatever you decide to use).
16) Test your newly installed light bulbs, left and right sides by turning on headlights. Do this before continuing. Resolve all wiring issues before continuing.
17) Install a self tapping (4x1) screw into each fog light unit until the thread just starts to protrude slightly.
18) Install a light socket into each fog light unit.
19) Install each fog light unit (left-hand and right-hand units) into the mounting hole, plastic tab end first. Be careful with the wires when you pop the fogs into place.
20) Engage each fog light self tapping (4x1) screw into the threaded clip on the bumper. You may need to slightly move the fog light unit around until screw engages with clip. You can also place your hand just behind the clip to feel how much the screw has engaged - should be about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
21) Reinstall small plastic cover that was removed in step 2a), using original small snap clip.
21a) Reinstall plastic cover that was removed in step 2), using original snap clips.
22) This is a nice to have. I didn't get a chance to do this yet but will probably install an inline fuse later. Since the PIAA 19224s draw about 1.5 amps (12vdc, 18w), I'd recommend using a 3 to 4 amp slo-blo fuse. I'd put the inline fuse housing on each side, just a few inches after the T-taps. You'll have to open up the sheath and splice the fuse wires into one of the wires on each side.
Fog lights only turn on when low beams are turned on which is exactly how my stock 2001 CLS was. This install took me about four hours. But I spent a couple of hours looking at tapping into the mark lights in headlight assemblies, but this required removing bumper and headlight assemblies. This would have taken another two to three hours and I may have ended up breaking something.
I you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me in this thread.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time.
-g
04-25-2007, 11:27 AM
#32
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02-03 TL Fog light switch
Correct me if I am wrong but can't you use the 02-03 TL fog light switch? It should fit right into the dummy plate where the VSA/TCS button normall would be on the automatic tranny.
11-15-2007, 05:52 AM
#33
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Got my eyes on a 2003 CLS, which doesn't come with fog lights. Based on this thread, I can definitely solve that Acura oversight with about $150 and 4 hours of tinkering. My question, was anyone able to install a properly functioning toggle switch for the fogs(as questioned by CT6speed), or is the low beam only operation, detailed in NSX-Tuner's response, my only option?
11-15-2007, 06:12 AM
#34
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Fog lights toggle...Yes!
Looks like I found the answer to my question about the toggle on a different. It has been done successfully. Hoping the member will hit me back with pics and directions.
03-20-2008, 01:51 PM
#35
Racer
Originally Posted by CptRoc
Looks like I found the answer to my question about the toggle on a different. It has been done successfully. Hoping the member will hit me back with pics and directions.
03-31-2008, 05:22 PM
#38
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OEM TL fog light switch for CL
I added the stock acura fogs to my 03 type S. I wired them so they would come on with the parking lights. Trouble with that is that when you lock/unlock the car the fogs and parking lights flash together. I bought the factory Acura TL foglight switch which will fit in nicely behind the dummy plate next to the moonroof switch (assuming you have the manual tranny). I am not sure if that plate is available on the auto because you also have TCS/VSA most likely. I sold the CL before adding the switch and still have it if anyone is interested in it. Otherwise its going on Ebay.
