DIY for my interior issue
02-25-2007, 10:36 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
DIY for my interior issue
Well, better late that never on the DIY. This is the same post as in my "interior issue" thread, I didn't want it to get lost.
First, research how to remove the door panel. The corner speaker is held on with clips, they just pop out and can be wiggled out.
Hint to removing the door handle. One you take out the only screw, slide the whole assembly to the right and then pull out.
Once your in, you'll have to remove the retainer for the door handle bar. Real easy, it just pushes off and rotates away. Just lift the bar out and push it inside the door.
There are (2) screws that hold on the panel and 4 or 5 clips. They are easy to remove and more durable than the domestic car panel clips.
This clip was the hardest to undo. I recommend rotating the entire door panel upside down and then undoing the clip.
The inside of the door panel. There are a BUNCH of screws holding on the armrest but thankfully they aren't long winded.
Once you get the armrest off, there are two screws holding on the Window control cluster. You'll need to remove the power mirror switch to get to one of them. the switch is removed by wedging a screwdriver between the housing and the underside of the armrest in order to push the metal tabs down. DON'T FORCE IT. It will come out with a little persuasion.
(the pictures I took were blurry and i'm not tearing apart the car again.)
Here is the problem area:
Gorilla glue or Rhino glue - pick your african mammal - just make sure the bottle says for use on foam and plastics. A lot of the glues won't adhere to either. (thank you to my mother for enlightening me to that little fact) I bought my glue at Walmart for $3 and a pack of 16 spring loaded clips for $4.
Here is my setup. I used a paint stirrerererrerreerrer against the finished side of the door handle to maintain an even pressure and not create little dimples where the clips were.
By the end of the NASCAR race it was set. Here is the result:
Before:
After:
I also fixed this part of the door handle while I was at it.
Hope this helps the next person! Thanks for playing.
First, research how to remove the door panel. The corner speaker is held on with clips, they just pop out and can be wiggled out.
Hint to removing the door handle. One you take out the only screw, slide the whole assembly to the right and then pull out.
Once your in, you'll have to remove the retainer for the door handle bar. Real easy, it just pushes off and rotates away. Just lift the bar out and push it inside the door.
There are (2) screws that hold on the panel and 4 or 5 clips. They are easy to remove and more durable than the domestic car panel clips.
This clip was the hardest to undo. I recommend rotating the entire door panel upside down and then undoing the clip.
The inside of the door panel. There are a BUNCH of screws holding on the armrest but thankfully they aren't long winded.
Once you get the armrest off, there are two screws holding on the Window control cluster. You'll need to remove the power mirror switch to get to one of them. the switch is removed by wedging a screwdriver between the housing and the underside of the armrest in order to push the metal tabs down. DON'T FORCE IT. It will come out with a little persuasion.
(the pictures I took were blurry and i'm not tearing apart the car again.)
Here is the problem area:
Gorilla glue or Rhino glue - pick your african mammal - just make sure the bottle says for use on foam and plastics. A lot of the glues won't adhere to either. (thank you to my mother for enlightening me to that little fact) I bought my glue at Walmart for $3 and a pack of 16 spring loaded clips for $4.
Here is my setup. I used a paint stirrerererrerreerrer against the finished side of the door handle to maintain an even pressure and not create little dimples where the clips were.
By the end of the NASCAR race it was set. Here is the result:
Before:
After:
I also fixed this part of the door handle while I was at it.
Hope this helps the next person! Thanks for playing.
02-27-2007, 08:46 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
Sweet... Great Reference...
I'll let it stay here in th general forum for a couple of days, but this will be a nice addition to the threads in the FAQ forum...
Great job !!
I'll let it stay here in th general forum for a couple of days, but this will be a nice addition to the threads in the FAQ forum...
Great job !!
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02-28-2007, 10:11 PM
#9
That glue will probably not come apart. It just needs to set overnight to harden. Only thing about Gorilla glue that I've noticed is it expands while it dries, but those clamps look like they worked good.
A little off topic: What exactly is that white plastic lining in the doors, is that some sort of sound damping or water proofing?
A little off topic: What exactly is that white plastic lining in the doors, is that some sort of sound damping or water proofing?
02-28-2007, 10:24 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 123456SPEED
Good job.
Is that a pack of Tylenol on the ground??
You didn't mention that was needed!
Is that a pack of Tylenol on the ground??
You didn't mention that was needed!
Originally Posted by All Mine
Also note- Do NOT step on Blackberry.
Originally Posted by gaping46and2
That glue will probably not come apart. It just needs to set overnight to harden. Only thing about Gorilla glue that I've noticed is it expands while it dries, but those clamps look like they worked good.
A little off topic: What exactly is that white plastic lining in the doors, is that some sort of sound damping or water proofing?
A little off topic: What exactly is that white plastic lining in the doors, is that some sort of sound damping or water proofing?
The plastic is a vapor barrier, that's all. It just keeps the condesation out of the cabin. Like wrapping a building in Tyvek. What really puzzled me was the seemingly usless hollow box to the lower right of the inside of the panel and matching cut out in the door. It was like it had a purpose at some point, or maybe a carry over from a different model. The only thing it would work for is a stash...
02-28-2007, 10:35 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Misdby1
The plastic is a vapor barrier, that's all. It just keeps the condesation out of the cabin. Like wrapping a building in Tyvek. What really puzzled me was the seemingly usless hollow box to the lower right of the inside of the panel and matching cut out in the door. It was like it had a purpose at some point, or maybe a carry over from a different model. The only thing it would work for is a stash...
02-28-2007, 10:57 PM
#12
Drifting
that plastic is close to impossible to get loose from the door without stretching it or tearing it. i also don't remember seeing that little plastic piece on my door panel when i had to replace my window regulator.
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RichTypeS (08-17-2014)
02-28-2007, 11:10 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Misdby1
You can use this one as a hockey puck for all i care, I have nothing nice to say about blackberry.
Originally Posted by Misdby1
The only thing it would work for is a stash...
03-04-2007, 05:17 PM
#18
Senior Moderator
Great job.
05-02-2007, 01:00 PM
#23
Shogun Assassin
Originally Posted by fahoumh
From what I understood, the glue is used to hold the armrest's shape so it no longer sticks out? Sorry for the stupid question.
05-02-2007, 02:48 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by smokendsm
Work looks top notch! How is it holding up after 2 months?
It looks just like the pictures i posted! It's holding up wonderfully!
05-10-2007, 12:27 AM
#26
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I'm not getting it.
Okay, so i cant exactly figure out what the glue is for. Do you just apply it onto the problem side and wait for it to dry then use the clamps and stick to keep its shape? I'm not exactly sure of the procedure. Help?
06-21-2007, 10:29 AM
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by corpsdawg
Okay, so i cant exactly figure out what the glue is for. Do you just apply it onto the problem side and wait for it to dry then use the clamps and stick to keep its shape? I'm not exactly sure of the procedure. Help?
I hope you've figured it out.
By the way, after 5 months, it still looks great.
07-07-2007, 12:52 PM
#29
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wow great right up! i didnt realize more people had this issue as well. i just thought my friend did it from standing on it. haha...that probably jerked it out more though.
for mine, it actually peels at the ashtray bezel on the armrest and as well as the door handle on the inside. i wonder if i can fix that as well.
for mine, it actually peels at the ashtray bezel on the armrest and as well as the door handle on the inside. i wonder if i can fix that as well.
03-01-2008, 12:52 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Nice Job! Dealer replaced mine on the rear driver side under warranty, Problem is the color doesnt match. Nothing I can do now but it is happening to others now. I will do it to them. Are there different types of gorilla glue or only one? Thanks
03-03-2008, 11:03 AM
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
There are different types of "Gorilla glue". I think I used Rhino or something. The important thing is you use a type of glue that doesn't eat foam. If the used says it can be used on foam then you'll be safe.
BTW - no break down yet.
BTW - no break down yet.
03-14-2008, 08:59 PM
#33
Eurotrash
I've bookmarked this. That's a really nice job. I got dealer to replace both sides of mine while under warranty, but they're starting to separate again.
I don't think you have to remove the tweeter housing to get the door panel off, as I don't remember doing that. Could someone confirm?
I don't think you have to remove the tweeter housing to get the door panel off, as I don't remember doing that. Could someone confirm?
correct.
07-24-2008, 05:15 PM
#35
Exquisite One
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Very nice write-up. A couple of my doors are doing the same thing, so I'm sure this will definitely help sometime in the VERY near future.
It seems like this issue is another one of those "usual" issues as with any Honda/Acura. I used to have a '96 Accord EX and the temperature control knob for the climate control broke three different times. LOL, oh well, I guess there's going to be small issues when you make the car itself basically impeccable.
I love Honda/Acura for so many different reasons!!!!!
It seems like this issue is another one of those "usual" issues as with any Honda/Acura. I used to have a '96 Accord EX and the temperature control knob for the climate control broke three different times. LOL, oh well, I guess there's going to be small issues when you make the car itself basically impeccable.
I love Honda/Acura for so many different reasons!!!!!
08-01-2008, 11:51 PM
#36
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As soon as I have time I plan to take before and after pics. I will be doing this because mine is bad! It's starting to hang low and loosely... it's bad! Bet.... anyone know anything about the driver power seat
up and down works, front and back works, not recline doesn't adjust the back in a sitting up position or laying back position. I hear the motor it makes a sound then does a little "click sound and stops" it won't work..... grrrr also I ordered a window regulator from a member acurazine, I will be doing the project too.... well Thanks for your time!! Have a good and safe weekend!
up and down works, front and back works, not recline doesn't adjust the back in a sitting up position or laying back position. I hear the motor it makes a sound then does a little "click sound and stops" it won't work..... grrrr also I ordered a window regulator from a member acurazine, I will be doing the project too.... well Thanks for your time!! Have a good and safe weekend!
08-15-2008, 01:02 AM
#37
3rd Gear
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I just got my 1st CL (03) and I read on the other forum (1st Gen) about changing the light in the dash to blue, does anyone knows if the same applies to the 2nd Gen? I am worry only because of the digital panel, any suggestions???
