Rajca

iTrader: (8)

no one has this besides me. a few 3rd gen guy have done it. but their hood isnt popped as high, they have more clearance.

cheapest place i know. or find someone at a dealer that u know and acura will give the guy that works at the dealer better prices. so u get list pretty much and no shipping

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'll be trying it next,if it dont see more power on the botom end I know it will see more power on the spray.
PM'ing you

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

also. u cant mill the intake manifold where the cover sits. u wouldnt have room for the bolts to screw in bc u can only go so deep. and that 1/8" of clearance that u might get wont help much.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Couldn't get temps last night, got home late and wasnt in a great mood. Tonight though I should be home earlier, so I should be able to get the measurements for you.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I ordered the parts I need this morning from Bernardi in Boston for like 87 shipped. I needed 2 factory gaskets right ?
Also did you say the spacer was only 1 3/4".
If it is, I don't think they're will be much clearance issues on clp's.Maybe the one center beam in the hood but,maybe not much at all

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I just came in from putting something on the motor 1 3/4" in between the highest on the motor and the lowest part on the hood and it shut fine.
I really won't know when the parts come but ,this might look great for us clp guys.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

Cool. But u only needed one new gasket. U can reuse ur old one as long as u don't bend it

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

oops maybe I can change the order but probally not

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

If its special order, u can't change it

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i had 1.5" of clearance till i hit the center beam on the hood, and that was with the thremo spacer on, so with out it i would be at 1 3/4".

measure from the front plenum to the hood. thats where i had a bit of a problem and the hood needed to be raised a tad bit more to clear.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

whoa dude,So I might be in the same ball game with you.
I could fit 1 3/4" where I did but 2" would touch the center bar but,I could still close it.
So thats why I opt out for the P2R spacer.
I hope I dont have the issues,I'll have to go remeasure tomorrow when it light out.
Any luck getting you hood down anymore yet?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

havent messed with it, its not bothering me at all.

CLsuperhero

Has anyone tried http://www.cervinis.net They might could hook us up with some custom hoods...Some look nice, but some look rice.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

spent too much on my cf hood to get a diff hood now.

silver6speed

I wish all the DIY writeups were this good. Great work Rajca.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

just doing my part to help out the forum.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I never payed much attention but,it looks as if the tabs on the spacer have to be cut like you did to fit.
Do they ?
Did you use a cut off wheel or grind them?
I want to heat up the piece less as possible.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

they dont need to be cut. i cut them bc they would get in the way of my direct port nitrous set up. i used a cut off wheel and a 80grit sanding disk

Total2f

It would be nice to get some exact measurements on how much the clearance issue is. I know it would be much likely less power, but since no one makes cowl hoods for our cars machining the spacer down for proper hood fitment could be an option. I assume the piece is aluminum so it would be very easy to do.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

its aluminum.

i had about 1 3/4" or from from the top intake manifold cover to the bottom of the hood. spacer is 1 3/4". but than u have to calculate for engine movement.

but, where i had a problem was the bottom left hand side of the intake manifold cover hitting the hood. wanst something i was expecting. but to be on the safe side, id cut the spacer down to about half of its size. ppl on the 3rd gen side cut 7mm off of the spacer but they also dont need to raise their hood as much as i did.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

got a spacer with all bolts (and studs) necessary and gasket for sale in BM
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/mdx-intake-spacer-mod-ct-quiet-tip-inserts-753235/

Pinho

iTrader: (1)

what are the gains like?...did u dyno it?i was thinking of doing this for a while now , i have had te parts for some time now but some things got in the way..still consedering on doing it

Total2f

Was thinking threw machining the spacer down a bit, and this would require different bolts and studs I would assume because they would then be taller than needed. Right?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u would need diff bolts, i thing u can get away with using 95mm bolts.

been informed that they spacer will not work with the comptech strut bar. sensors and hoses get in the way

havnt dynoed it yet. i got some bent valves. and when i put the spacer on my tires let loose in 1st gear at any mph, never did that before with bent valves. so power was added

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

correct, but it also depends on how much you are getting it machined


that's me , you might be able to get away with a half height spacer, but that is about it

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

sell the strut bar, have to make sacrifices for power. OR try the 09tl shawd intake manifold and teh spacer. ud be the first one to do it.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Pick up the Neuspeed bar for the 98-02 Accord. I got mine on eBay for $50 (used of course). It sits behind the stock stb, so it doesnt get in your way.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

^yup, i told him that, but he likes teh look of teh comptech bar.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and the cnc milled aluminum and not too many other people have it either

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Update for clp spacer upgrade.

The recomended bolts are too long for clp/tlp intake.
They need to be 20mm shorter.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

Hmm. That's strange. Never saw the inside of the manifold of a "P". Thanks for the heads up

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I had to put 6 washes on each bolt and it still put a crack in one of the lower runners but,it seems fine.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

that blows, but at least you do know it is there, and not wounderering why the F*** you engine be surging at idle (if it ever does eventually)
and don't plan on boosting with that there ethier

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

jb weld the crack for now. or take it to a body shop and see if anyone can weld aluminum.

u got a pic of ur intake manifold? with the top cover off. i want to see the difference.

at a hardware store by my house they had 90 or 95mm bolts. i needed 105mm. so the 90mm bolts just might work for the "P" ppl.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Its not a crack where air could escape. The bolt was going to pop a hole threw but it did not go all the way threw.
Thats why I said a crack.

But, when I first started the car I did get surging with a high idle.
So I checked for leaks . When I restarted the car it idled fine but check engine came on.So then I checked plugs and restarted the car and evrything was all good.
I've been out 3 times with the car and the performance has got beter everytime. ????/ our ecu's must have to learn wtf just happened or something.
Now idles fine,no lights and it go's.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, they need to "relearn" again.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

why do you think there is an idle relearn procedure in the service manual

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

acura_honda_30cl

i have a question i have a 1gen 3.0cl i was wondering if this write up will for the j30 also?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

Not sure. Look at my pics and compare ur intake manifold to that.