CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

i know this topic has been brought up indirectly in other threads, trying to get a broader range of opinions because i'm totally out of ideas.

before: ABS engaged very rarely, usually when slamming the pedal, as normal.

during: both front lower balljoints replaced, tie rod ends, and end links. all done at once. ABS/Wheel sensors broke, typical. didn't drive the car for about a week. replaced ABS/Wheel sensors on both sides.

outcome: ABS/VSA/! are all lit up. ABS engaging all the time at around 5 mph and under when come to a stop. if i'm just letting my idle move the car, ABS does not engage.

solutions?: i reset the ECU, drove the car backwards, then forwards. ALL lights went off, but ABS still engaging. i bleed ALL 4 corners, exactly how the HELMs says to, front left, front right, rear right, rear left. i bleed them through a whole bottle.

finally... ABS is still engaging.

HELP?

fsttyms1

So even with out a full panic stop abs is pulsing the brakes?

pits200

I replied in the other thread. This is the same issue that I had when I changed my lower ball joint. The sensor has to come off when you take off the knuckle, its very possible that the shop you took it to busted the sensor, because they get rusted on pretty good in the crummy weather.

You need to be sure that the sensor is in all the way, because it works on a pulse magnet when the axle rotates, so if the sensor isn't lined up properly in the knuckle, your abs will engage at speeds under 5mph.

Mine would do the same thing, I would get the pulsations only under 5mph, kind of like I was panic braking and the abs would engage.

Its definitely the wheel sensors, look behind the rotor and recheck the screws that hold the sensor in and make sure its not loose or not pushed in all the way.

P.S, Your wheel sensors are hard to break, if they are broken the car will toss a code. If there is no code, they just aren't aligned right in the knuckle.


Good Luck and put your mind at rest, this is definitely the problem. Each side only costs like $50 at the dealership if needed and are a cinch to change.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

that's the thing, we ended up buying all new sensors for both sides. so i will jack the car up tomorrow, unbolt it and make sure it's sitting right. shops never seem to do things right the first time.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

update: i did what pits200 said. i just jacked the car up from the center, left the wheels on. since the sensors were just put on yesterday, they were fairly easy to pop out w/ a thin flat head screw driver. i took them all the way out. then i position them so i could hand tighten the bolt, and slowly tapped them all the way in with a rubber mallet. i would hand tighten, tap, hand tighten, tap. this seemed to seat them nice. then once they were down i gave them a few good wacks and that put them in place. car drives great now. thanks so much.

brianlin87

iTrader: (1)

^ good to hear

pits200

Congrats, glad to hear you got it all fixed... Hope you are liking those new Moog tie rod ends.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

moog tie rods, moog endlinks, and moon balljoint... the front end is so solid now. i plan to do the rear w/ all moog stuff. gotta love greaseable tie rods and endlinks.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

What does this look like , whereis it located, i seem to have the same problem after i did a legend caliper swap.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

just follow the only electrical wire in there... it goes from the inside of the fender, follow down the a-arm, and sits in the rear of the hub, it's a squarish black plastic plug that has a single bolt attaching it.