1foxbody

I finally got to go on the dyno and make a couple pulls to get a baseline for comparison. It was getting spark knock and the torque curve wasn't very smooth so we decided to switch the plugs from ngk laser platinum 4363 to ngk v power 5791 that helped smooth it out and make a very little more hp/tq. The slight smoke you see is a little oil that got into the rear cylinders when I was changing the plugs. For some reason only my rear spark plug tube seals were leaking. I still have a couple more mods left to do and hook up the bottle haha enjoy!!





http://youtu.be/XMcN44D46Xs?hd=1

http://youtu.be/D13gGJ5b_vo?hd=1

m733l

iTrader: (1)

nice numbers. is that with the modified ct headers?

m733l

iTrader: (1)

^disregard. just read your build thread and answered my own question.

answer: oem headers

1foxbody

Haha thanks yeah I can't wait to put the headers and make the rest of the exhaust!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

If those number are with oem headers then gratz man. Nice numbers. I have similar number with my xs headers but different dyno etc. U should hit the track soon.

1foxbody

Yes they were that's my baseline so we can see how much it picks up with the new exhaust setup and a couple other things thanks. Yeah I remember seeing your dyno runs also. Once I finish doing these last few mods and I put the bottle on. I still have to buy two oem wheels to put slicks on and probably get axles since I know that will be my weak link then I'll be track ready.

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

Why not pickup a set of track oriented wheels that are lighter then stock

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SSR-C...ht_2143wt_1165

These will fit perfect on the car too.

1foxbody

That's not my style of wheel at all lol but thanks for the heads up. For daily I want the car to have a nice stance staggered setup weather permitting. For the track only I'm going to buy a extra set of oem wheels to get modified. I have a cool trick that I did to one of my mustangs in the past to keep oem sleeper look. I can get the front wheels widened so I can run larger slicks and rear wheels narrowed to run skinnys. It will look oem from the side and surprise people. It's different and cheaper than buying a set of brand new drag wheels for now.

Maybe way down the road if I have the extra money to buy a set of real drag wheels I will. I really like the new weld racing aluma star 2.0's in black. Here's a picture of them for reference.

http://www.mccormackracing.com/cgi-b...y=ID&order=123

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

If those were 18s they'd be mine

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

Fro rly?

http://www.timeattackforums.com/foru...5x114-3-a.html

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Why did you have to show me that?

Ill send him a message later to find out about shipping.

Those were the same wheels you had, right? They clear the RL calipers without spacers?

Sorry for the thread jack btw.

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

ThreadJack!



Yes, Same size as my first CL (ran 18's) that cleared Rotora BBK. My 2nd CL (Ran 17's) I had the RL BBK, but both sizes will be fine.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Sweet.

Fox - You can now have your thread back

Oh, and IN for after numbers!

1foxbody

Lol it's okay guys! If you don't mind me asking what's so special about those wheels? Are they very light?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea. IIRC they 18s are 16-17lbs each.

Reducing rotating mass is much better then static. And thats ~10lbs lighter then one OEM wheel, and 5-6lbs lighter then one of my Work CR-Kais.

1foxbody

Wow I didn't think they would be that much lighter per wheel. I know all about that. That's why if I run slicks and skinnys in the rear I can save a few pounds since they are bias ply tires not radials.