Some details and info about KW V1 Damper kits
09-28-2015, 05:45 PM
#1
Some details and info about KW V1 Damper kits
Hey there folks. We know there are some people running KW dampers in the forums here, but lower cost systems tend to get the attention. We wanted to post up and let people know a little bit more about the benefits of a highly-refined KW damper kit. Check it out!
We recently had an opportunity to take some nice beauty shots of a KW damper system, Variant 1 version, for a 2004-08 Acura TL. We'd like to share some of our observations here!
The KW Variant 1 is constructed with stainless steel damper bodies. While avoiding corrosion is a huge benefit for suspension systems, stainless steel is also more rigid that normal steel, allowing for truer damper performance. See some great salt-spray test results for more info on "inox_line" coilover benefits. Dampers are of twin-tube construction, allowing for consistent and compliant road feedback with good comfort.
KW Springs are made of chrome-silicon steel and features many layers of coating to prevent corrosion which could lead to failure. KW selects the spring rate and dimensions specifically per application, even employing linear or progressive springs where it makes the most sense. KW also employs "helper springs" which are the large, flat springs that are used to keep the main spring seated regardless of spring position. Read a little more about helper springs here.
Spring seats on KW kits are constructed of a composite material that helps dampen vibration and noise from the road without dulling the feel. Also note the incorporated set-screws for a strong, positive lock of the seats to prevent loosening.
Many people realize that the bump stops protect dampers from the potentially-damaging consequences of "bottoming out" the dampers. In very sophisticated suspension systems, the bump stop is not only a protective element of the suspension, but it is also item that can be used to "tune" the suspension. It is not uncommon for a suspension system to bottom out under aggressive driving. When the bump-stops are impacted sharply, the impact can unsettle the chassis, and give a very harsh, unpredictable feedback. KW bump stops are compliant and made to a specific firmness to allow for smoother, more predictable handling when large bumps are encountered when driving "at the limit."
...
Full pics and details on Heeltoeauto.com: https://www.heeltoeauto.com/xcms_entry.php?xcmsentryid=180
Originally Posted by Heeltoeauto.com
We recently had an opportunity to take some nice beauty shots of a KW damper system, Variant 1 version, for a 2004-08 Acura TL. We'd like to share some of our observations here!
The KW Variant 1 is constructed with stainless steel damper bodies. While avoiding corrosion is a huge benefit for suspension systems, stainless steel is also more rigid that normal steel, allowing for truer damper performance. See some great salt-spray test results for more info on "inox_line" coilover benefits. Dampers are of twin-tube construction, allowing for consistent and compliant road feedback with good comfort.
KW Springs are made of chrome-silicon steel and features many layers of coating to prevent corrosion which could lead to failure. KW selects the spring rate and dimensions specifically per application, even employing linear or progressive springs where it makes the most sense. KW also employs "helper springs" which are the large, flat springs that are used to keep the main spring seated regardless of spring position. Read a little more about helper springs here.
Spring seats on KW kits are constructed of a composite material that helps dampen vibration and noise from the road without dulling the feel. Also note the incorporated set-screws for a strong, positive lock of the seats to prevent loosening.
Many people realize that the bump stops protect dampers from the potentially-damaging consequences of "bottoming out" the dampers. In very sophisticated suspension systems, the bump stop is not only a protective element of the suspension, but it is also item that can be used to "tune" the suspension. It is not uncommon for a suspension system to bottom out under aggressive driving. When the bump-stops are impacted sharply, the impact can unsettle the chassis, and give a very harsh, unpredictable feedback. KW bump stops are compliant and made to a specific firmness to allow for smoother, more predictable handling when large bumps are encountered when driving "at the limit."
...
Full pics and details on Heeltoeauto.com: https://www.heeltoeauto.com/xcms_entry.php?xcmsentryid=180
09-29-2015, 10:35 PM
#2
I have a set of ST-X's on a 2011 TSX wagon. ST-X's are the zinc plated version of V1's. The damping is phenomenal. Its very controllable and firm without being uncomfortable at all. The car rides better than stock, and these shocks are built really well. The welds and finishing are top notch. There's a reason these cost what they do for a relatively low amount of features. There's a lot of engineering in a kit like this. While I love my Tein SA's on my 2006 sedan...KW's do feel more refined. I also have a set of KW V3's on another car.
There's a lot of technical mumbo jumbo up there from KW lol. I'm wondering ....what'd you guys think of the ride and how does the TL look now?
I think these shocks blow Koni Yellows out of the water in terms of blending refinement and control.
There's a lot of technical mumbo jumbo up there from KW lol. I'm wondering ....what'd you guys think of the ride and how does the TL look now?
I think these shocks blow Koni Yellows out of the water in terms of blending refinement and control.
Last edited by BROlando; 09-29-2015 at 10:39 PM.
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MrHeeltoe (09-30-2015)
04-25-2021, 05:42 AM
#5
Any of These Tips Apply to an MDX???
I have a '12 MDX w/Tech and the RPW went down and I can't get it up. I unlocked the car and heard a window going down. Thought it was the FPW as the rears aren't automatic. Neither the master switch nor the rear switch will power up the window. I can hear a singular "click" sound from the window but no other noise. A couple days ago the RPW squeaked a few times (added in case it's useful info).
TIA for any help...
TIA for any help...
04-25-2021, 07:42 AM
#6
Hi, sounds like the window lift mechanism has gone by the wayside...
The "click" indicates that something is trying to happen but it can't happen.
I've replaced them on a number of vehicles. There are nylon wheels the cables move on as the window goes up and down. Those wheels can break, then things are jammed or a cable can break and jam things up too. They are made of nylon because those don't need lubrication and don't get squeaky but they do age and break.
Look up rear window lift replacement for your MDX and somebody somewhere has probably posted a video on YouTube to show you what to do. Hope that helps!
The "click" indicates that something is trying to happen but it can't happen.
I've replaced them on a number of vehicles. There are nylon wheels the cables move on as the window goes up and down. Those wheels can break, then things are jammed or a cable can break and jam things up too. They are made of nylon because those don't need lubrication and don't get squeaky but they do age and break.
Look up rear window lift replacement for your MDX and somebody somewhere has probably posted a video on YouTube to show you what to do. Hope that helps!
04-25-2021, 07:54 AM
#7
Thanks for the Quick Reply!
I went down the rabbit hole of possible causes of this problem. Checked the fuse and tried the key lock method of closing the windows and pushing up on the window. I will definitely look for those videos.
AGain, thanks for the reply...
AGain, thanks for the reply...
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04-25-2021, 07:59 AM
#8
The videos that get posted on YouTube that have had the same issue will give a how to. You may or may not find your exact vehicle but any Acura/Honda from around the same time yours was made or other years is going to give you the general idea of what you need to do.
When I did this years ago on my first vehicle back in the '80s, there weren't YouTube videos. I just took off the inner door panel and started looking around and figured out what needed to be done. Pretty straightforward at that point.
Keep us posted.
When I did this years ago on my first vehicle back in the '80s, there weren't YouTube videos. I just took off the inner door panel and started looking around and figured out what needed to be done. Pretty straightforward at that point.
Keep us posted.
04-25-2021, 08:35 AM
#10
Okay, he said tongue in cheek, let's think about this... Your window is not working and you're worried about making something worse? It's your window lift, think Occam's razor. You got this!
04-25-2021, 08:56 AM
#12
Choices, Choices
I am 90% sure I can do this, especially since i am limited in my tools dpt.
In the spirit of getting this done ASAP would it be a mortal sin to use this part from AutoZone?
https://www.autozone.com/collision-b...035/454553_0_0
In the spirit of getting this done ASAP would it be a mortal sin to use this part from AutoZone?
https://www.autozone.com/collision-b...035/454553_0_0
04-25-2021, 09:07 AM
#13
Whichever way you want to go, I typically get them off eBay since they are a good bit less expensive and haven't had any problems. But in the name of getting it done right away if it's in stock go for it.
04-25-2021, 09:19 AM
#14
I would rather get this fixed sooner, rather than later. It rained just before the window died. Lucky.
I have been up all night keeping an eye on the weather.
The trash bag covering the window looks, well, trashy...buh-duh-tssssAnd I won't be able to relax until it's fixed.
You guys freakin rock...Thanks so much for the help
I have been up all night keeping an eye on the weather.
The trash bag covering the window looks, well, trashy...buh-duh-tssssAnd I won't be able to relax until it's fixed.
You guys freakin rock...Thanks so much for the help
04-27-2021, 03:52 PM
#16
Yesterday the window went up as if there was never a problem. I'm actually going to hold off on replacing this part as I feel that isn't the source of the problem (or am I mistaken?)
This, along with some other issues that are similar in nature, makes me feel there's an electrical/computer issue.
This, along with some other issues that are similar in nature, makes me feel there's an electrical/computer issue.
10-07-2021, 07:51 PM
#18
Did you ever figure out the problem/get it fixed and or is it still working? I have seen that the Honda / Acuras can and do have, over time broken, wire/s in the door harness, especially the rear doors, right where the harness is visible in it's rubber protection sleeve, as the doors swing open and close. check it out if it reoccurs
12-22-2022, 05:06 PM
#19
Instructor
I've had the suspension on for 7 years now and its been great. I don't have a camber kit, but I've been thinking about it. I have a little tire wear, but I just rotate the tires.
02-21-2023, 09:24 PM
#20
6th Gear
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Brake job in San Antonio
Hey guys.This thread seems pretty quiet ,but here goes nothing:
anyone have suggestions for affordable,reliable brake work here in SA?
starting to get the squeaks and need them looked at and pads/rotors replaced.
there is a local Facebook group that just seems to be a repository for ads.
low mileage 2006 TL AT6
anyone have suggestions for affordable,reliable brake work here in SA?
starting to get the squeaks and need them looked at and pads/rotors replaced.
there is a local Facebook group that just seems to be a repository for ads.
low mileage 2006 TL AT6
02-23-2023, 01:54 PM
#21
Hey guys.This thread seems pretty quiet ,but here goes nothing:
anyone have suggestions for affordable,reliable brake work here in SA?
starting to get the squeaks and need them looked at and pads/rotors replaced.
there is a local Facebook group that just seems to be a repository for ads.
low mileage 2006 TL AT6
anyone have suggestions for affordable,reliable brake work here in SA?
starting to get the squeaks and need them looked at and pads/rotors replaced.
there is a local Facebook group that just seems to be a repository for ads.
low mileage 2006 TL AT6
But to answer your question...
An Acura dealership is often be the safest bet.
Or...Google shops in your area. Any decently rated independent shop should have no issues with this job.
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